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RUF life..

YotaAtieToo said:
3.9 magnum? Wtf for
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I have one, parts on the shelf for the engine are easier to come by in the midwest, it's relatively compact, some of the parts (sensors and electronics mostly) are interchangeable with the Jeep folk I wheel with, and I can bolt it to a Toyota trans/t-case assembly with no adapter. I have another post on here where I explained why I wanted to do it, chiefly the internet is full of people claiming it possible, but there was an apparent lack of people who'd done it. I want some extra torque (but not too much) and I don't want to do a t-case doubler on this rig to compensate. The 20R is great, but I'd like to have the option of using 2nd or 3rd and getting wheel speed when I want it without pulling the engine down at the top of a greasy hill and having to attempt to shift. Plus I like being different (only toy in a group of jeeps, though we recently have a couple of full-size guys join and we have a regular that is finding all the weak links of his Tracker). What's more different in this group than a Toyota with a Dodge engine. Not going V8 or 4.3L chevy. If I did a V8 I'd go 5.0L Ford, but that would require a host of upgraded and $$$ I don't want to spend. It cost me nothing but time to split the transmission and swap in the AX15 input shaft and bolt on the Dodge bellhousing. I can still use my crossmember and mount for the trans, and it will keep the weight shifted back further than a V8.

TL;DR I wanted it.
 
Well if you were able to do the trans already, sweet.

If keeping a single case, you probably should have just used the whole ax15 and a D300 or pass drop 241 though.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Well if you were able to do the trans already, sweet.

If keeping a single case, you probably should have just used the whole ax15 and a D300 or pass drop 241 though.
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If I ever attempt such folly again in a heavier rig, I will. I like the Toyota T-case as its lighter and more compact than those options. I'm a pretty big guy so the weight savings have to come from the truck:homer:. I figure if the VF1A will support a 3rd gen 'Runner toting around overlanding gear and a 3.4, it should last me okay with a target 3500# rig after the engine swap. Also, while I respect the jeepers, I shudder at the thought of turning this into a 'jeep build' with a Toyota cab. I have my pride:grinpimp:
 
YotaAtieToo said:
D300 is probably lighter, it's iron case, but tiny.
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Do you think it's lighter than the Dana 18 in my '65 Scout? It's tiny too, but just from having it on my chest rolling out from under a vehicle the 18 weighs about what the RF1A does, and I 'assume' the VF1A is lighter? I may be wrong about all these assumptions:homer:. Oh well, the assembled drivetrain is sitting on my shop floor now waiting for its turn on the A-frame hoist. Perhaps it's my aversion to 'Jeep' parts. I guess I can pretend it's 'akchually' an IH part? Still, going D300 would certainly increase my options for future upgrades. I'll definitely keep it in mind for the future. I guess the overriding factor is I had the parts laying around, I'm cheap, and I took the AX-15 I used for a donor input shaft and rebuild my Jeep buddies fragged one with the good internals and paid for the engine/trans I bought at U-Pull-It with the proceeds.
 
So in a tldr posting I ask those whom are ragging on rufs bending, what's the 3rd and 4th leaf spacing like?
to much stagger seems to be a killer...:beer:
 
Update: was preparing to order the OME heavy duty rears (thanks for the help Austin ) when I got hit with a hospital bill the insurance didn’t want to cover (fuck my life). So, as a responsible dad and husband, I put play toy parts purchases on hold. But, as I still wanted to play a couple times more this year, I headed to my not insignificant bone pile.
I have parted a few 72-93 dodge trucks over the years and saved numerous front and rear spring packs to build bastard packs. I ‘discovered’ something I hadn’t known before: rear Dodge leaves of these years are 52”, offset 24”/28”, 2.5” wide. Tore down a couple of crusty 1/2ton rears. The 2nd through 4 leaves match pretty well, stacking 2 and 3 under the factory 1983 Toyota rear main and 2nd then the 3rd Toyota, then the 4th factory rear dodge. I have to trim the front off the dodge 2nd about 2.5 inches, but I like the fact it sits under the busted-down Toyota main and 1/2 wrapped second. It seems a little stiff at the moment, but I’ll bet it softens up once I get to cycling it. If not I’m just going to lop the ends off the Dodge 4th (now the 6th in the pack). I also need to build a couple of pack clamps, which I’ll do before our trip on Sunday.
Still probably going to buy the OME springs when I swap engines, but I think this is a viable option for a bastard pack without cutting/drilling a bunch of springs, or possibly using the whole 52” offset pin spring for a front spring swap
Don’t know how it’s going to work off-road, I’ll let y’all know this weekend.

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If to stiff, taper the ends back say 4-6" ...
If we ever get the Toyota bible back this should be added as donor leafs!:beer:
 
IowaOffRoad said:
Update: was preparing to order the OME heavy duty rears (thanks for the help Austin ) when I got hit with a hospital bill the insurance didn’t want to cover (fuck my life). So, as a responsible dad and husband, I put play toy parts purchases on hold. But, as I still wanted to play a couple times more this year, I headed to my not insignificant bone pile.
I have parted a few 72-93 dodge trucks over the years and saved numerous front and rear spring packs to build bastard packs. I ‘discovered’ something I hadn’t known before: rear Dodge leaves of these years are 52”, offset 24”/28”, 2.5” wide. Tore down a couple of crusty 1/2ton rears. The 2nd through 4 leaves match pretty well, stacking 2 and 3 under the factory 1983 Toyota rear main and 2nd then the 3rd Toyota, then the 4th factory rear dodge. I have to trim the front off the dodge 2nd about 2.5 inches, but I like the fact it sits under the busted-down Toyota main and 1/2 wrapped second. It seems a little stiff at the moment, but I’ll bet it softens up once I get to cycling it. If not I’m just going to lop the ends off the Dodge 4th (now the 6th in the pack). I also need to build a couple of pack clamps, which I’ll do before our trip on Sunday.
Still probably going to buy the OME springs when I swap engines, but I think this is a viable option for a bastard pack without cutting/drilling a bunch of springs, or possibly using the whole 52” offset pin spring for a front spring swap
Don’t know how it’s going to work off-road, I’ll let y’all know this weekend.

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:beer::grinpimp: this is what 4wheelers used to be all about, building shit out of what you got laying around. now we have dorks that just say "buy some shitty china trail gear leafs, RUF suck because i dont know how to build them" then those same dorks bitch about credit card bolt on built jk's :homer:
 
rockyota83 said:
ive used both those charts multiple times in the past :smokin:

edit your post and add leaf spring length chart to it for future searches :beer:
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Edit the title of this post? I didn't know you could edit the title after you'd posted. Would we all be better of to copy/paste the charts to the FAQ/bible? Would that make more sense?
rattlewagon , I've seen the bottom chart before somewhere, but I've never seen the top one. Where'd you get it? Thanks for posting it!
 
IowaOffRoad said:
Edit the title of this post? I didn't know you could edit the title after you'd posted. Would we all be better of to copy/paste the charts to the FAQ/bible? Would that make more sense?
rattlewagon , I've seen the bottom chart before somewhere, but I've never seen the top one. Where'd you get it? Thanks for posting it!
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sorry my post was directed towards rattlewagon not you, if he edits that post with the chart in it then it will be easier for others to find in future searches.
 
rockyota83 said:
sorry my post was directed towards rattlewagon not you, if he edits that post with the chart in it then it will be easier for others to find in future searches.
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After I posted it, I thought maybe it was misdirected. I posted them in them in the FAQ/bible, and tagged rattlewagon so he got proper credit.:beer:
 
rattlewagon said:
Probably off the other site years ago. I have no idea who mr n is. I just googled "leaf spring chart" to re-find it. Bottom chart was from the ranger station I believe.
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mr.n is an old school pirate member with a wealth of knowledge :beer:
 
Great find! I have already downloaded it, added a column for overall length, color-coded the OEM to make it faster to find the group you're looking for, and fixed a few rows that had the information of 2 springs in them. Is there a way to load an excel sheet to IBB? Otherwise I can screen capture the images and post it up.
 
IowaOffRoad said:
IOR OEM leaf spring spreadsheet with dimensions

I put this in the resources tab, with photos of all the pages if you don't want to download it. Thanks Yotota :beer:
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Nice work, I dig the color coding for brands and adding the OAL is a smart call.

I cross referenced a lot of the springs I was looking at with other resources like truckspring.com and sdtrucksprings.com, as well as the OG charts from the old site, and didn't notice any issues.

I'm also stoked that we are keeping the hardcore tech alive, especially for leaves. Probably 80% of recreational wheelers are perfectly fine on leaves and they can't be beat for budget builds.
 
That charts awesome!! I'm running fj62 RUF on my Tacoma and while they work pretty awesome, I can't find sued or even 0lift OEMs anywhere. That chart is going to come in handy for sure!! Flex pic...
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I went out yesterday with my ‘bastard pack’ of Dodge and Toyota leaves. I cut my day early due to a broken birf’ (forgot to bring a spare as I’ve only broken 1 in 7 years). After an hour of running the trails, it seemed to ‘break in’ and flex okay. Not great, but okay. I think I’m going to pull the bottom dodge leaf and possibly the old bottom Toyota leaf. Overall happy with how it turned out.
 
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