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rolling driveway gate design figures and/or guidelines

16'. Why not two 8' cantilever swing gates? Cantilever rollers might handle piled snow better, but the back frames get pretty long. Pour a pad under the swing radius that has a heater in it. Kick it on when the snow falls to keep it clear and the gate can swing.

Was looking at Ghost Controls for the opener on mine. I am with you on wearing out the door hinges to open the gate.
 
MuntCuffin said:
No gate. Landmines.


Maybe hang a few of your...ahem.....toys....from the closest tree.


Nobody gonna rob a damn thing from a guy with buttplugs hanging off their sycamore like some gimpsuited santy clause.
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clodhopper said:
16'. Why not two 8' cantilever swing gates? Cantilever rollers might handle piled snow better, but the back frames get pretty long. Pour a pad under the swing radius that has a heater in it. Kick it on when the snow falls to keep it clear and the gate can swing.

Was looking at Ghost Controls for the opener on mine. I am with you on wearing out the door hinges to open the gate.
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Wouldn't that pad just be a nasty ice pond after a while ?
 
[486] said:
huh, that's smart
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Not here. :homer:
[486] said:
maybe I'll have to figure out what parts wound benefit from the sch40 and what parts should get the thinwall fence pipe
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I learned the hard way that my roof rack is too heavy for what it is. The lighter it is, the less you have to worry about support stuff. Also, Drive around looking at storage facility gates. The last ones we installed had little caster wheels on the end to support them at full close. And the closing mechanism was a garage door opener turned on its side with a chain.

Meth heads drive around and look at gates thinking they are indestructible, in all reality, they only need to stop the occasional ford ranger.
 
bad zuki said:
The last ones we installed had little caster wheels on the end to support them at full close.
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I was figuring it'd have a ramped fork up on a post at the non-opener end that it would stab onto, to hang onto the dangly end
fork that interfaces with a collar on the pipe so it is up outta the snow

got a few commercial door openers to build the operator out of, the kind that drive the spring-cable-shaft dingus
and a bunch of worn out #60 chain that came off a baler or something
 
When I did mine the gate rollers were surprisingly expensive. I made my gate itself out of aluminum
 
[486] said:
guess I'm just gonna have to get out the tape measure and look like a jackass measuring peoples' gates as though I'm a tweaker
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Just wear a reflective vest, white hard hat, and bring a clipboard. People with fancier gates that you'll be looking at will be HOA types or some shit so they'll just think you're a code inspector.
 
I'm with bad zuki. Your 2" sched 40 is too heavy. 1x2 or 2x2 x.081 is plenty stong enough. I built a 14' x 5' swing gate on barrel hinges that works fine. But it's not used often enought to warrent auto opener device. After 15 yeas it probably needs a springed wheel on one end tho.
 
Curbkrawler said:
You planning on a track for it to ride on or just a wheel on the ground? We built one years ago at pops place and he poured a concrete footer across the gravel drive and we set a piece of angle all the way across for the roller to ride on. Has worked pretty good for almost 10 yrs.
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I have this style going into my back yard. It's chain-link fence parts, with wood pickets screwed to it (typical residential style 6' cedar fence). 24' wide, we poured a 8" wide x 8-10" deep footer for the angle iron. It works great, was much cheaper/easier to install than a true cantilever gate, plus the pickets are nice and tight to the ground. It's not really noticeable from the outside. Manual operation, I always wanted to rig up an opener for it but it never became a priority.

I would not recommend this style for a daily use gate in a snowy area. Mine has two issues with snow. The first is that it builds up right at then end (once you open the gate, the snow falls on the track) and makes it hard to latch. This could be easily solved by extending the track. The bigger issue is that when you drive across it, it packs snow around the track, and the roller can come off the track. For my use it's not a big deal, since it's rare that I'm driving across it in the snow. It gets used much more in nicer weather.

I think you're better off with either a true cantilever style, or the swing up style.
 
Splib said:
Wouldn't that pad just be a nasty ice pond after a while ?
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Properly engineered, it will be completely dry soon after it stops snowing.

There's a few heated driveways around here.

We have a few accounts that have sections of heated sidewalks. If they were smart, they would do a lot more...hospitals, health care buildings.
 
Not sure how he clears his driveway in the winter, but tracks will get the shit torn out of them by a steel edged plow. Or tear the shit out of a blower.
 
subybaja said:
Too much DRT- I was waiting for the sparks when it hit the overhead lines! :laughing:
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They miss the lines completely, and I argued for an hr with the installer explaining they are Phone and CATV no electricity.:laughing:

Most comments are " of all the ways I thought a gate could open, that never crossed my mind, at Christmas I put a lighted wreath on it:laughing:
 
Stingray said:
They miss the lines completely, and I argued for an hr with the installer explaining they are Phone and CATV no electricity.:laughing:

Most comments are " of all the ways I thought a gate could open, that never crossed my mind, at Christmas I put a lighted wreath on it:laughing:
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Do y'all get a lot of wind there? We're currently on day three of 30 mph sustained, 50+ gusts. I'd be afraid it would blow that thing out of alignment.
 
As to the structure, you are building a crane boom/Roof truss.
It's kind of hard for home gamers to nail it first try so try to leave yourself a way to add "slope" etc. to the gate if it droops too much.

I try to design the frame to first NOT SAG then incorporate the detail.
That gets hard to do if the desire is to have a straight wrought iron look as there is no TRIANGULATION to keep shit from racking.

I will add a X braced structure off the end of the gate to keep the top and bottom chords parallel and perpendicular but even then the gate will droop at the farthest point if all the other members are strictly vertical. You can build the slope into it to account for it but that's pretty hard to do again first try.

I imagine with your level of required finish and since you will be building it onsite you might be able to leave some X members of the gate until its up and hanging then pull it back up to horizontal then weld in the last braces.

Everyone busted my balls for this one saying it was too much but its for a commercial property with a solid face. IMO you want it as light as possible and to resist wind load as much as possible but this customer almost never wants see through gates on his properties so they are solid wood or metal, and that wind load gets be a big deal.
We just use bigger gate operators than technically required and so far that works fine.

I use the machined solid steel ball bearing V rollers not some cast junk.
For the guide rollers I use Nylon coated pallet jack rollers and sold shafting for the pins.
Everything is hell for stout, reasonably cheap and plentiful.

I am designing some swinging gates for a project now that will use Flange pillow block bearings and common shaft sizes.
I hope 20 years from now a bearing change is a really simple task or not needed at all.


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For snow? I would use dual rubber wheels and a center cable on the ground pulled pretty tight. Have the cable through a 1-2” pipe at the end of the gate to center it an inch or so off the ground. Put small metal plows on each side of the wheels.

I’d much rather run over a 5/16 or 3/8 cable than a piece of angle iron every time.

And it can’t derail. Hopefully that makes sense.
 
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