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Rewiring a trailer

AKnate

Icehole
Joined
Mar 5, 2022
Member Number
4908
Messages
991
Have a 25k twin axle dually tilt deck trailer i need to rewire. It's a mix of cobbled together garbage and orginal 40yr old brittle as shit wiring. Currently only have brake lights and turns working. Need clearance and brakes.

I looked at brand new trailers for ideas and most made me want to barf. Scotch Loks and those cheap blue plastic butt connections, so water will kill that in a year or two, if that. The wiring on this trailer WAS well done from Miller, but it's crumbling apart from age.

Have a good pigtail and 7 post junction box at the tongue, and going from there.

Run a main 7 wire cable down the frame all the way to the pivot? Splice off that with 4 wire on the tilt for lights and 2 wire for brakes?
Junction boxes there?
The axles are walking beam, so need a good quality wire that hold up to movement.

Have a vague idea, but looking for suggestions on products. Amazon ideally as shipping is $$ from most other places
 
I ran 1/2" PVC conduit down the frame of my 22+2 deck over, then ran stranded wire inside that, I used 10 gauge for ground and brakes, then 14 for everything else.
I used this for the wires from the conduit to the lights: Amazon.com super flexible even when it's cold.
I did run everything to the back so I could put a 7 pin receptacle in later if needed, I put a 4 pin at each side in the back for magnetic lights if needed.

Aaron Z
 

Gave me some ideas. I'm thinking a junction box vs splices though. Easier to troubleshoot later if needed.

May convert it to LED, haven't decided yet.

Trying to not put a shitload of time and $$ into it, but also it not constantly needing screwing with.

I'm hoping the brakes are ok, but I found random brake parts in the chain bin and one is completely unhooked so who knows. 4 New loading backing plates and drums are around $1500
 
Anyone familiar with brakes on dayton wheels? Googling and not coming up with much. Just drums and parts for new style.
 
14 gauge? 12?

7 wite 14 gauge is about $1.50 a foot. 12 gauge is $4.50
 
Buy once cry once.

Use quality wire, and waterproof connectors. and hopefully not have to fuck with it. Don't use extension cord.
 
14 gauge? 12?

7 wite 14 gauge is about $1.50 a foot. 12 gauge is $4.50
Brakes or lights?
LED Lights, 16 gauge should be fine.
Brakes, I ran 10 gauge to the axle splices, then 12 gauge to the axle.
IIRC the magnets max out at 3.2A each.

Aaron Z
 
Brakes or lights?
LED Lights, 16 gauge should be fine.
Brakes, I ran 10 gauge to the axle splices, then 12 gauge to the axle.
IIRC the magnets max out at 3.2A each.

Aaron Z
Around 4 amps each from what I find. They are 12" brakes.

It's either go overkill on light wiring or underkill on brake wiring. Only 7 wire cables with different size wires ive found is CCA.
 
Weld studs for grounds. at the front , each axle and the lights at the rear.
junction box at the front

I always put a socket on the trailer , cause a cord never last long, then make up a double ended cord
trailer socket

brake wire either 10 or 12

protect the wires in something, crimp and solder and dual wall ( adhesive} shrink tubing
 
Go all out of you want it to last. LED lights draw less, 14 gauge is fine. Ancor heat shrink connectors, ground studs on the trailer. I found tail lights with backup lights in them, and also added some flush LED floods. Didn't realize how nice it is and makes it easier to gauge distance and back right up to stuff. While I was welding studs on, I burned in some receiver tubing in the frame so I can use the trailer jack to change tires or plug in a vise or table. I want to do folding flood lights for the front but haven't yet.

I did the 7 wire to the round junction box and have a little solar charger to keep the battery topped off. Have also seen little pelican style boxes used but the chrome pivot pins rust out on the cheap ones.
 
Around 4 amps each from what I find. They are 12" brakes.

It's either go overkill on light wiring or underkill on brake wiring. Only 7 wire cables with different size wires ive found is CCA.
Overkill, always.
 
Here is 25': Amazon.com

Aaron Z
Screenshot_20240206-080023_Amazon Shopping.jpg
 
I might just do seperate wires bundles for lights and brakes from the tongue.
 
eTrailer makes a good junction box, I have one one my trailer
I wire all my grounds to the wiring harness to the truck through the plug. I have never had any wiring go fuzzy since I have started doing that
 
10-4. Wasn't planning on reverse lights though. Ones on the truck work fine.
If you have a place to put them at the back of the trailer, they make a huge difference seeing what you are about to run into at night, ones on the truck are ok, but unless it's the wall of a garage, there is a good chance you will have a hard time seeing what you are about to run into.
I didn't think they would make that much difference until I got them installed.

Aaron Z
 
If you have a place to put them at the back of the trailer, they make a huge difference seeing what you are about to run into at night, ones on the truck are ok, but unless it's the wall of a garage, there is a good chance you will have a hard time seeing what you are about to run into.
I didn't think they would make that much difference until I got them installed.

Aaron Z
Some people back up by braille.
 
If you have a place to put them at the back of the trailer, they make a huge difference seeing what you are about to run into at night, ones on the truck are ok, but unless it's the wall of a garage, there is a good chance you will have a hard time seeing what you are about to run into.
I didn't think they would make that much difference until I got them installed.

Aaron Z
I'm sure I could but the truck has ones on it. Ive never had a semi trailer with reverse lights.
 
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