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Rep builds a bunch of old Fords

Yeah its absurd. My original plan was to build some fire breathing monster of a motor, maybe 6-700 HP, just because i thought it would be cool. I almost had my hands on one of the old Banks Superchargers for the 460s (but passed on it because i blew the 351 in my green bronco 2 days prior to finding it). Honestly glad i didnt go nuts on the rebuild because 400 HP is a lot of fun, streetable, and thus far has been pretty reliable. Im sure with another 1-200HP id be splattering driveshafts & diffs again.
 
reptillikus said:
Yeah its absurd. My original plan was to build some fire breathing monster of a motor, maybe 6-700 HP, just because i thought it would be cool. I almost had my hands on one of the old Banks Superchargers for the 460s (but passed on it because i blew the 351 in my green bronco 2 days prior to finding it). Honestly glad i didnt go nuts on the rebuild because 400 HP is a lot of fun, streetable, and thus far has been pretty reliable. Im sure with another 1-200HP id be splattering driveshafts & diffs again.
Click to expand...
My brother has a 78 FSB with a D0VE headed 460 with a comp cams “stage 3” cam. When he was in high school I called it 9 eater. I built 3 9 inch thirds for it one year for him and he twisted the original axle housing on one of the bombs. Once we got the rear end to stop being the weak point he killed 2 C6’s in the next year.
 
Id believe it. After twisting a chromo shaft in the D70 im nervous about my entire drivetrain :laughing: Thus far i havent mangled too much though. The anti-wrap bar is doing its job, but the heim joints in it are hating life :lmao:

I put a transgo kit in the C6, and it got a converter from Broader performance so the trans holds ok, but ideally id like to rebuild it and change the band and servo. The shift just isnt as firm as id like, even with the shift kit. That 6R80 that rattle_snake put behind his 460 is bad ass, but i think my wife would kill me if i bought a trans and adapter instead of finishing the kitchen remodel!
 
DO it :smokin:

I pulled the 351 out of my bronco back in '12 i think, so me & my bro could get our dads '90 F150 running again (which is still running good to this day). Thats when i put the stock 460 in, and it was like night & day. Tons more power; i never looked back. Fast forward all these years, do a mild build on the 460 and its like night and day all over again. No way i could go back to something smaller now.
 
Im 460 for life, this will be my 6th 460 build in a dentside. Got a low hour 99 generator and some worked dove heads to pair together. Finally finished house, working on getting some projects wrapped up then move on to the motor build to go into the 78'. Shooting for that 400-425 hp low end monster sweetspot also
 
Right on! This was my first experience with a big block and I'll never go back :smokin: I do kind of regret staying flat tappet though; I ended up building this motor twice because the first time I wiped out a cam lobe/lifter breaking in the motor, so I ended up rebuilding it twice :shaking:

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They pop up on marketplace here once in a while. Usually off a generator of some form. Didn't realize those heads were worth anything.
 
I need to dig into 2 pairs and actually measure the valve diameters. I haven’t had time to touch them but you guys have me scared that they have smaller exhaust valves than I thought.
 
I didn't think they're any bigger than the E8 heads. No need for a big valve when it probably only runs 1800 rpm. But also id assume nat gas runs a higher compression so maybe they have a lower deck height? Or maybe just OEM flat top pistons? Never really looked into it.
 
So i studied my wiring diagrams for a bit
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...and then came up with a plan to improve my old wiring, while also simplifying it.

Step one involved moving the wiring for the pump away from the water tank since the pump is now on the frame rail
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From there i was able to break down my old sloppy wiring harness, and make a nice clean one to take its place.

My old wiring harness:
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...and the new one:
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So with that done i replaced the float in the tank since one of the wires was frayed
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put the nozzle back in the intake...
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...and powered the system back up!
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water-methanol injection V.20 is now complete! Now to just drive the truck and get it tuned!
 
I have some other non-truck projects to work on for the next week or two, but this is the next upgrade coming down the line:

001.jpg


Superduty springs! I have a set of V code for the front, and a set of B code for the rear. The set in the top are G code out of an excursion, which i might steal a leaf or two out of for some added height, we'll see. I have a set of blocks and overloads which im going to put in as well:

002.jpg




So yeah, suspension upgrades inbound!

I need to buy new tires, my 35s are beat. Theyre also on 16.5" wheels, so im debating what to do in regards to that. I have a set of old OEM alloy 16" wheels, but theyre in rough shape:
16_al_wheel.jpg


I figure i could strip the clear, maybe sand blast them and paint them to get them to look half decent, but to pay anyone to do it would cost as much as just buying new wheels. So debating buying a set of 17s. It irritates me that 16s & 18s both have higher load rated tires than 17s, altho theres still some good options for 17s out there. So im trying to decide what i want to do.
 
That's what I said last time! But the GY MT OZ suck in the winter. So what then, Interco Vortrac A/Ts? There's really nothing else left to buy.
 
In your area are SD take offs cheap and readily available? You can get crossover adapters from 8 on 6.5 to 8 on 170mm for pretty cheap. Then SD wheels and normally available tires are on the table.

I know some people have an aversion to spacers/adapters. We have some from these guys and imo the quality is good. I wouldn’t be afraid to run them.

lugnutguys.com

Wheel Adapter- Converts 8x6.5 to 8x170 - 2" Thick 14x1.5 Studs

Wheel Adapter- Converts 8x6.5 to 8x170 - 2" Thick 14x1.5 Studs. Shop Wheel Adapters & Wheel Spacers at Lug Nut Guys. Bolt patterns and sizes to fit most vehicles. Aircraft grade precision machined aluminum. Change the bolt pattern, space out the wheels. Fast, Free shipping. 8650-8170E
lugnutguys.com lugnutguys.com

And the offset of the SD wheels is almost always deeper than the OBS ones. So the spacer is basically nullified by the deeper back space
 
I was actually about to get on FBMP and see whats available. I was trying to avoid wheel adapters if possible; having 32 lug nuts per corner just seems like extra work. Im not in a big rush, but id like to have new tires on the truck before i go to the east coast bronco roundup this summer.
 
You mean an extra 32?🤣 the first 32 you only mess with twice. Initial assembly and then a retorque. Then the new 32 become the main 32 like you’ve always done.
 
Yeah thats true. Im just stubborn i guess. Like i said, ive got time. Never know if a good deal might pop up.
 
Those are a lot nicer! Lame that the old set started peeling so fast.

I have been going back and forth over buying a set of these in 17":
racelinewheels.com

958T Rogue – Raceline Wheels

958T Rogue (Patent Pending) Clean off-road inspired spoke design Color matched caps with embossed Raceline logo for a seamless look Constructed out of heavy duty A356 aluminum Available in Satin Black, Titanium and Machined finish Available in 16” to 20” diameters for most 5, 6 and 8 lug trucks...
racelinewheels.com racelinewheels.com


I dig that they look like wagon wheels but are coated AL so i dont have to deal with heavy steel wheels, or polishing AL wheels. After 20 years of polishing wheels, im just tired of doing it!
 
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Predictably, the one vehicle youre not working on gets jealous and decides to break. In this case it was the turn signal switch in the column of the '90 Bronco. The book says the column has to come and be disassembled to do this job, but i had another idea.
First up, lower it to make some room
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Turns out if you de-pin the connector on the end and remove it, you can pull the switch right out of the column
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After de-pinning & removing the connector on the new switch, i was able to fish the new one down thru the column, and get it installed
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...putting the connector back together...
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...and done! Turn signals work again.
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Ive now used the aluminum bed a few times now to haul stuff for the garage, and im already tired of the spare tire being loose back there. Not that it moves around, just that its big and always in the way. So i took the time to remount the original tire carrier that was in the bed
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Simple and effective.
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Provience said:
Stay 16.5 for 1 more set of tires :flipoff2:
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Fuck it, we're staying 16.5 :grinpimp:

The tires on the diesel are beat:
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Since we're staying with the 16.5s for another round, theyre overdue for a cleaning & polish. Lets gooo!
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cleaning...
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...polishing...
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...and clean, and looking good once again!
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I think they clean up pretty good for being 20 years old.
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With that done, its time for new rubber!
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...and installed!
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:smokin:

First impressions is that theyre actually pretty nice! Virtually silent, and nice & smooth up to ~80mph (fastest ive gone). Seem to handle well. We'll see how well they do in the rain, or towing a trailer, soon enough.
 
reptillikus said:
I have some other non-truck projects to work on for the next week or two, but this is the next upgrade coming down the line:

001.jpg


Superduty springs! I have a set of V code for the front, and a set of B code for the rear. The set in the top are G code out of an excursion, which i might steal a leaf or two out of for some added height, we'll see. I have a set of blocks and overloads which im going to put in as well:

002.jpg




So yeah, suspension upgrades inbound!

I need to buy new tires, my 35s are beat. Theyre also on 16.5" wheels, so im debating what to do in regards to that. I have a set of old OEM alloy 16" wheels, but theyre in rough shape:
16_al_wheel.jpg


I figure i could strip the clear, maybe sand blast them and paint them to get them to look half decent, but to pay anyone to do it would cost as much as just buying new wheels. So debating buying a set of 17s. It irritates me that 16s & 18s both have higher load rated tires than 17s, altho theres still some good options for 17s out there. So im trying to decide what i want to do.
Click to expand...

I liked that style, so I picked up these for the plow/tow Blue Bronco a while back (8 lug 17 X 9's). Not sure on long term finish durability, but they balanced up OK and seem decent quality overall. I keep spraying ceramic coating on them, especially rears, for the boat ramp.

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I also picked up these Raptor BFG's takeoffs really cheap, so another reason 17's are nice.

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EDIT: Didn't see your post that you decided to stick with 16.5's until after I replied. Looks good. Need to paint the hubs :flipoff2:
 
That thing looks good on the 17s :smokin:

Yeah the hubs need a paint job for sure. Probably going to do that when I do the spring swap (which I hope to start next week).

I hadn't even thought about Raptor takeoffs, that's a good reason to go to 17s. We'll see what happens; with the mileage I put on the diesel yearly, it'll be another 8-10 years before i need tires again :laughing:
 
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