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RCV grease?$$

This is great and all but can someone recommend a grease gun setup that doesn’t make a fucking mess every time you look at it?
 
JR4X said:
It’s weird that is says not to use it on automotive wheel bearings. I think it’s the perfect lube for trailer wheel bearings. You’ll never need to repack them, It doesn’t dry out. I’d throw bearings away and start over before trying to wash them out and repack them. But this stuff doesn’t go bad to need to be removed and replaced. Only concern is contamination. My trailers, I washed out the cheap grease they came with, packed them with this stuff and just check them once a year when I check brakes and add grease when I do.
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Because it's not made for high speed applications like wheel bearings. Too much drag with how tacky it is.

It's for slow speed high load, like bushings on tracked machine idlers, pivot pins, etc.

Chevron ESI HD 5% is pretty much the same stuff.
I've had no issues cleaning it off stuff though.

Edit: guess I should have read all the other posts first.
 
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fl0w3n said:
This is great and all but can someone recommend a grease gun setup that doesn’t make a fucking mess every time you look at it?
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I've been happy with the Mikfuckee M18 ones I have. Have used the Dewalt flavor as well too.

If you buy from Lock and Lube, they had the best price that I've found.

I have some regular pistol grip units, but rarely use them. Fine for the few zerks here or there, but on equipment... I've used a box of grease (10 tubes) in a day.
 
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Ok, so I gave some unsolicited advice about wheel bearings which isn’t even the topic of the thread.

So disregard anything I say about wheel bearings and stay on topic about RCV’s. Add u-joints and trunions in there since it’s the same application. Enjoy many many years of silent fluid smooth axle service.
 
JR4X said:
Ok, so I gave some unsolicited advice about wheel bearings which isn’t even the topic of the thread.

So disregard anything I say about wheel bearings and stay on topic about RCV’s. Add u-joints and trunions in there since it’s the same application. Enjoy many many years of silent fluid smooth axle service.
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I read about it, I'm glad you brought it up. I really like the sound of that grease for socketed connections,(tie rods/balljoints)
I end up having 4-5 grease guns all loaded with different stuff anyway.

I have a few tubes of the old CTM yellow grease and the CTM black grease as well. I am always looking for a new replacement for that stuff.
The yellow was some amazing stuff.
 
JR4X said:
Ok, so I gave some unsolicited advice about wheel bearings which isn’t even the topic of the thread.

So disregard anything I say about wheel bearings and stay on topic about RCV’s. Add u-joints and trunions in there since it’s the same application. Enjoy many many years of silent fluid smooth axle service.
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We still want to see current pictures of your races and bearings:flipoff2:
:lmao:
 
welndmn said:
I read about it, I'm glad you brought it up. I really like the sound of that grease for socketed connections,(tie rods/balljoints)
I end up having 4-5 grease guns all loaded with different stuff anyway.

I have a few tubes of the old CTM yellow grease and the CTM black grease as well. I am always looking for a new replacement for that stuff.
The yellow was some amazing stuff.
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My stupid rzr has stupid expensive serviceable 300M ball joints. I stuck with the grease that came in them and the first set didn’t last very long before the ball ate it’s way out of the socket. The replacement set I disassembled and washed the mfg recommended lube out then reassembled with this moly stuff before installing them into the SXS. I haven’t had to adjust the slack out of them once since assembly and I disassemble the whole vehicle & check all those parts after every race. The first set I had to tighten up every race. The only difference is the lubricant. You just need to make sure you get the rubber boot full of grease and not air so the elasticity of the boot mushes the grease back into the socket as it modulates.
 
Hmm, I need to rebuild my knuckles and swap in my trunnion eliminator kit so that Schaeffer's stuff might be the winner. Most shops just squirt in the crappy ol' Lucas Red-N-Nasty shit that separates too damn quickly. It's currently dripping from my axle as we speak.

I'll buy a couple tubes and see how it goes.
 
Yotota said:
Hmm, I need to rebuild my knuckles and swap in my trunnion eliminator kit so that Schaeffer's stuff might be the winner. Most shops just squirt in the crappy ol' Lucas Red-N-Nasty shit that separates too damn quickly. It's currently dripping from my axle as we speak.

I'll buy a couple tubes and see how it goes.
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Try Chevron Ultra Duty EP for a "good for most anything and cheap" grease. It's around $40 a box.

Or P66 Multiplex if that's easier to get.

No idea on Schaeffer, it's not something that makes it this way.

The ESI with 5% Moly is the Chevron version of the Schaffer grease. It's about $5 a tube.
 
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