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RCV grease?$$

Hodgiemoto

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 16, 2020
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2950
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173
50-60 bucks a tube? I understand it's a warranty thing but dang... any alternatives that anyone would recommend?
 
I think JR4X had an alternative product he uses in the racecar.
 
Yep. I work in industrial equipment. Highest pressure hardest service life imaginable. Go read the literature on Schaefer Moly 238. 500K shear force molecules, 100% water proof. Sticks to metal like a magnet and the hotter it gets the better it works.

The pain in the ass about it is there’s no way to break it down. Solvent won’t touch it, gas, diesel, nothing. If you get it on your clothes that’s a wrap, worse than black paint.

We run in it everything. RCV’s, Wheel bearings, u-joint’s, etc. you can get it on Amazon. I have RCV’s. I have RCV grease. I promise this stuff is superior.

 
Yep. I work in industrial equipment. Highest pressure hardest service life imaginable. Go read the literature on Schaefer Moly 238. 500K shear force molecules, 100% water proof. Sticks to metal like a magnet and the hotter it gets the better it works.

The pain in the ass about it is there’s no way to break it down. Solvent won’t touch it, gas, diesel, nothing. If you get it on your clothes that’s a wrap, worse than black paint.

We run in it everything. RCV’s, Wheel bearings, u-joint’s, etc. you can get it on Amazon. I have RCV’s. I have RCV grease. I promise this stuff is superior.

I definitely want to try some of this out. If you do need to remove the grease from parts, what do you do? I would hate to pack toyota knuckles full of it :lmao:
 
I definitely want to try some of this out. If you do need to remove the grease from parts, what do you do? I would hate to pack toyota knuckles full of it :lmao:
We pack Toyota knuckles full of it.

Here’s my process. I keep boxes of harbor freight nitrile gloves on hand and I don’t touch the stuff without putting a pair on. If I need to remove all of the grease. I get a small empty parts box and set it near whatever it is I’m working on. A roll of the heavy duty blue paper towels from the parts aisle at Walmart. Scoop as much as you can with the gloves alone and using the paper towels to catch globs of it, wads of paper towel grease globs going into the box. Wipe as much away as possible with paper towels. If you need it down to bare metal for whatever reason (like welding) starting fluid will cut the remaining film and you’ll still have to wipe it away with a paper towel or rag. Close the box with all the rags grease and gloves in it, tape it shut and throw it away. Brakleen is pretty in effective at washing it away.

I put on new nitrile gloves to put together whatever it is I’m packing with grease. If you get it mushed into your finger prints it will be with you, smell and all for weeks. There isn’t a soap on earth that will cut it. I buy packs of paint sticks from the hardware store to scoop it out of the tube and apply it. Throw the sticks away with the empty tube when it goes in the trash.

It’s weird that is says not to use it on automotive wheel bearings. I think it’s the perfect lube for trailer wheel bearings. You’ll never need to repack them, It doesn’t dry out. I’d throw bearings away and start over before trying to wash them out and repack them. But this stuff doesn’t go bad to need to be removed and replaced. Only concern is contamination. My trailers, I washed out the cheap grease they came with, packed them with this stuff and just check them once a year when I check brakes and add grease when I do.
 
What’s the birf soup like after it mixes with Gear oil?
Even 90W barely mixes with it. The stuff in the middle where the birf is liquifies and pours out when you take it apart but the stuff in the trunions is unaffected. The 90W only mixes where it’s agitated, it doesn’t wash it out.
 
Yep. I work in industrial equipment. Highest pressure hardest service life imaginable. Go read the literature on Schaefer Moly 238. 500K shear force molecules, 100% water proof. Sticks to metal like a magnet and the hotter it gets the better it works.

The pain in the ass about it is there’s no way to break it down. Solvent won’t touch it, gas, diesel, nothing. If you get it on your clothes that’s a wrap, worse than black paint.

We run in it everything. RCV’s, Wheel bearings, u-joint’s, etc. you can get it on Amazon. I have RCV’s. I have RCV grease. I promise this stuff is superior.


Do not use this stuff in ball bearings. Bearings will fail prematurely if you use this stuff. Bearings need grease that will liquify when warm to work correctly, this stuff will not do that.

Now a plain pin and bushing this stuff is ideal.
 
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Do not use this stuff in ball bearings. Bearings will fail prematurely if you use this stuff. Bearings need grease that will liquify when warm to work correctly, this stuff will not do that.

Now a plain pin and bushing this stuff is ideal.
Yep. Creating a lot of drag on high speed stuff.

And the too-tacky grease once took an airbus out of the sky
 
Do not use this stuff in ball bearings. Bearings will fail prematurely if you use this stuff. Bearings need grease that will liquify when warm to work correctly, this stuff will not do that.

Now a plain pin and bushing this stuff is ideal.
How about tapered roller bearings and needle bearings? 🤔 we run our U4 car over 100 mph with this stuff in our wheel bearings. My trailer has over 100K on it chasing races with the wheel bearings packed in it. No bearing failures at all to report.
 
an option to put in axle joints ? so you dont need to grease the yukon superior joints every 10 hours ?
 
How about tapered roller bearings and needle bearings? 🤔 we run our U4 car over 100 mph with this stuff in our wheel bearings. My trailer has over 100K on it chasing races with the wheel bearings packed in it. No bearing failures at all to report.
They will fail early with it. Your getting lucky. You need to use a lithium based grease not a moly based grease for ball or roller bearings. Your attentiveness is what’s probably keeping them alive. Your probably changing servicing it way sooner /less miles than a normal use.

I have seen it with my crushers my guys fill a bearing with moly grease and that bearing will die in short order. It even says on the greases label not for use with ball or roller bearings.

You can do whatever you want but I know for a fact moly grease in bearings means your out replacing them way way sooner than you should be.
 
an option to put in axle joints ? so you dont need to grease the yukon superior joints every 10 hours ?
Same stuff. Schaefer 238. I have CTM, OX, and Yukon super joints. This stuff lasts longer than anything else but those bushed joints just don’t have anywhere to store grease. You still have to grease them every day.
 
I was just going to post what panzer said. Moly based grease kits butt for pivot style or impact affected joints like a ball joint.

Moly is meant to cling and not move around
 
You can do whatever you want but I know for a fact moly grease in bearings means your out replacing them way way sooner than you should be.

I was just going to post what panzer said. Moly based grease kits butt for pivot style or impact affected joints like a ball joint.

Moly is meant to cling and not move around

Are you two recommending NOT to put it in CV axle shafts? If so, do either of you do anything with CV axle shafts?
 
Are you two recommending NOT to put it in CV axle shafts? If so, do either of you do anything with CV axle shafts?
I think it’s fine in cv joints as they don’t have high speed rolling elements. They like a lithium moly grease. I think They specify the lithium based so the grease flows when it gets warm.

In a high speed rolling application this moly grease can cause the bearing balls to skid causing flat spots and the bearing to fail prematurely.

I’m a firm believer in buying what ever grease the manufacturer suggests and not deviating. The oem picks the best stuff there is to keep their product going for the longest time. They spend the time testing to see what is the best.

I know it sucks buying $50 a tube grease but sometimes it’s the best stuff available for that situation. I have a application that takes a $125 a gallon needs 3 gallons at a time grease. It gets changed at least once a year. I have thought about deviating but then you hear stories of guys who try and wreck $30,000 in shit when they do.
 
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I think it’s fine in cv joints as they don’t have high speed rolling elements. They like a lithium moly grease.

In a high speed rolling application this moly grease can cause the bearing balls to skid causing flat spots and the bearing to fail prematurely.
The balls in a CV are rolling back ~6000in/min at highway speed (1inch forward and one inch back at 3000rpm).

Someone who isn't me should napkin math out how fast a wheel bearing and a u-joint roll. :flipoff2:

I’m a firm believer in buying what ever grease the manufacturer suggests and not deviating. The oem picks the best stuff there is to keep their product going for the longest time. They spend the time testing to see what is the best.
The OEM frequently has conflicts of interest that we as end users don't. This is less often the case with aftermarket car parts and industrial stuff than it is with consumer stuff or stuff built for highly regulated industries but still, you gotta use your brain.
 
Are you two recommending NOT to put it in CV axle shafts? If so, do either of you do anything with CV axle shafts?
What I would do as a parts guy looking for a similar/equivalent product. I'd ask for the Material Safety Data Sheet. Clearly RCV doesn't make their own product. They aren't in the business of making grease. Pretty sure they cannot deny you an SDS sheet. What is the procedure if you ingest grease or get it in your eye?
 
The balls in a CV are rolling back ~6000in/min at highway speed (1inch forward and one inch back at 3000rpm).

Someone who isn't me should napkin math out how fast a wheel bearing and a u-joint roll. :flipoff2:
These aren't CVs in some piece of shit 90s Ford van, these are CVs used in a specific niche market and shouldn't be spinning at highway speeds. Do people use them in their auto hub JK/JLs where it's spinning all the time, sure and they are dumb, but ideally these shouldn't be spinning at those speeds and used like a regular car CV. I am discounting ultra 4 type race use as that's a whole other use case and maintenance schedule, I'm talking your average built crawler here.

Interesting topic, I just loaded mine up with the RCV super grease made out of the lord's ass sweat, but I figured they were $900 in 2017 dollars, I don't want to have to repay that again in 2022 inflated dollars.
 
These aren't CVs in some piece of shit 90s Ford van, these are CVs used in a specific niche market and shouldn't be spinning at highway speeds. Do people use them in their auto hub JK/JLs where it's spinning all the time, sure and they are dumb, but ideally these shouldn't be spinning at those speeds and used like a regular car CV. I am discounting ultra 4 type race use as that's a whole other use case and maintenance schedule, I'm talking your average built crawler here.

Interesting topic, I just loaded mine up with the RCV super grease made out of the lord's ass sweat, but I figured they were $900 in 2017 dollars, I don't want to have to repay that again in 2022 inflated dollars.
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I’m a firm believer in buying what ever grease the manufacturer suggests and not deviating. The oem picks the best stuff there is to keep their product going for the longest time. They spend the time testing to see what is the best.

So you know the old adage, don’t let the people who don’t do what you do, tell you what your doing is wrong.

Are you 100% of the time only using the equipment you use in only the manner it was engineered for? Never exceeding the design limits of anything? Ever?

I’m calling bullshit. And I’m not calling bs with no experience to go behind it. The RCV’s in my rock crawler have been in it since 2010 with the grease I’m recommending. They went from 2010 to 2016 with no service. Zero wear in 2016, total grease replacement. 2016 to 2021 same no service interval. 2021 total grease replacement and still no wear. crawler has drive flanges, every revolution the tire has ever made in the last 12 years spun the shaft. I drive it 70 mph on the road to get to and from the trails. I use this stuff specifically for the high pressure high speed shock load application. In our fleet of team vehicles we’ve got 6 rigs in constant use with CV’s and this grease. Mine has pre ran every mile of KOH 8 years on those same CV’s then the race car goes and does it at twice the speed and 10 times the shock load. This stuff is the correct lubricant for the application, I’m standing by that statement.
 
Sorry but this made me chuckle right off the website: Ultra Supreme is one of our tackiest greases; it should not be used in passenger car automotive wheel bearings and electric motor bearings.
 
Sorry but this made me chuckle right off the website: Ultra Supreme is one of our tackiest greases; it should not be used in passenger car automotive wheel bearings and electric motor bearings.
You work at Schaeffer ?
 
OEM supplier willing to take a look at Ultra4 application, parts and recommend a grease ?
 
OEM supplier willing to take a look at Ultra4 application, parts and recommend a grease ?
No, the reason not to use moly in a rotating assembly application. I'm not saying the stuff isn't working for JR but from a longevity point of view Panzer is right. It's cheaper to maintain than it is to replace. Unfortunately MOST people use up the item until it must be replaced
 
No, the reason not to use moly in a rotating assembly application. I'm not saying the stuff isn't working for JR but from a longevity point of view Panzer is right. It's cheaper to maintain than it is to replace. Unfortunately MOST people use up the item until it must be replaced
Again, race application.
He's not going for 200k miles service life.
 
Again, race application.
He's not going for 200k miles service life.
Or even just rock crawling. High pressure, slow moving, max working angle under full load. Probably not going to get a whole lot of miles in its life but what miles they do see are mostly at or in excess of the working load limit.
 
Again, race application.
He's not going for 200k miles service life.
I’m just saying super tacky moly grease causes rolling bearings to skid and create flat spots which will cause them to fail. Will he see that idk but it does and will happen. I’m just relaying my real world experience.

What he wants to do is up to him but recommending to others it without the disclaimer is not good either. Squirt this grease in you mower spindle and you won’t make the summer on the bearings type stuff.
 
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