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Rattle_snake's Speed Metal Garage - 34x40x12 shop build

ridered3 said:
rattle_snake glad you are getting to enjoy the fruits of your labor then.
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Yes it was a long road getting the shop built. I wanted to get it up soon after buying property instead of waiting forever and building it for the next owner. I was impatient and pushed myself way to hard physically and mentality taking the enjoyment out of the process. Life's lessons.

Penetrode Offroad said:
Cool as shit man. :beer:
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Thanks man. I am doing a rear end job on my cobra mustang, again. Having a high ceiling shop, lift, trans jack and so on make the job completely different than on the floor. Doesn't make repairs enjoyable, but at least new fab work and installing gadgets.
 
rattle_snake said:
Yes it was a long road getting the shop built. I wanted to get it up soon after buying property instead of waiting forever and building it for the next owner. I was impatient and pushed myself way to hard physically and mentality taking the enjoyment out of the process. Life's lessons.
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Forest through the trees for sure. Hard to enjoy it when you are elbow deep in it.
 
Awesome space. I wish I could keep mine that clean and functional.
 
Thanks. Having less shit helps but things that cannot be parted with keep coming in.

Made a guitar rack for the backwards right-handed versions for those people to play. Used a sliver of pine that broke off from a big live edge slab used for something else. Lots of worm tracks. Didn't measure anything just touched up ends and drilled some holes.
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Rearranged some beer signs to make room
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I built a ridiculous 18" speaker box / chandelier for my shop. Wasn't loud enough I guess. 18 is driven by an old QSC USA 1310. I also upgraded the 10" $50 specials subs to Rockford P3s, and bought two more used QSC GX amps, a second GX5 and a GX3 for mid/tweets. I think that puts the system in the mid 4 kilowatt range. It's impressively clean and tight at fucking loud levels.
24" cube box, entire sheet of MDF.
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Had fun getting monstrosity up to ceiling. Used truck winch.
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RGBWs top and bottom.
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View from the helm.
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Instead of selling or junking my older stuff, I put it to use for my guitar rig. Converted a chop saw stand into a 19" rack, built two new boxes and grills. Added a 15" subwoofer, the half broken QSC USA400, and a half broken crossover. Now it has balls beyond just being loud. The 15 was more for the bass guitar, but makes the 6 string sound better also. Engage the octave effect (frequency halfer) and the fucker shakes the building.
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Love the variety of things you do in the shop! Nothing like having to use a winch to lift the speakers to the ceiling :smokin:
 
Thank you.

I build them for fun, not to be perfect. I'm my own worst critic, but learning to say 'fuck it'.

The paint is half assed at best, rolled, but once covered in grinder dust it won't matter.

The latest upgrades takes performance up a notch or two. The impact of a kick drum is impressive. 5 kW dims the lights.
 
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rattle_snake said:
Thank you.

I build them for fun, not to be perfect. I'm my own worst critic, but learning to say 'fuck it'.

The paint is half assed at best, rolled, but once covered in grinder dust it won't matter.

The latest upgrades take performance up a notch or two. The impact of a kick drum is impressive. 5 kW dims the lights.
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Great summary of most projects.
 
You calculating port and tuning frequency or just free balling?

Seeing that many ports it throws off my perception of what I think is the right length diameter.
 
Yes the target port length is calculated using this:

Loudspeaker enclosure calculating with Thiele Small parameter

Loudspeaker enclosure calculation with frequency and step response group delay voice coil impedance output diagrams
www.micka.de

but then there is reality, and an inch or two of port length is the difference of one Hz, which is not human detectable.

I tune to 'system' freq response which is a result of the box tuning frequency and the Fs of the driver. The box tuning frequency is a result of box size and port size/quantity/length.

In general, a flat response (Q of .707) requires a HUGE box and is not practical. Actual Q is more like 0.9 to get reasonable box size, so the response has a +3db hump. The port size is then used to tune the box/port resonance, which also has a +3db hump. It is up to designer where to put this 2nd hump. It can be at, below or above the natural peak. I put it below to extend the low frequency response. Stacking them will make peak +6db and would be max SPL.

I choose to use two, 4" ports to lower the air velocity in the port so it is not audible (turbulence 'chuff'). Two ports have to be twice as long as one for same effect. In this case I needed ~30" of length, 7" on the outside and the rest in the box.

The 12" boxes are similar, the port goes all the way to the top on the inside.

There is also a relation to port size and box size. Smaller the box, longer the port for same frequency. The 18" box is fucking huge (6.5 cu ft) so it can have a short port. Because there are four, they are four times as long as one would need to be.

Simple as that. :smokin:
 
Way too nerdy for me, dig the tech but there’s only so much room upstairs to learn new shit. I’d imagine it sounds way better than the outdoor PA speakers on my walls.
 
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