Random stuff you made.

[CarterKraft]

**** it for today, gonna be sanding for a week again, end grain walnut is hard as ****.

Ordered Rubio mono coat samples.

 

[BDK]

Is there a commercial wood shop nearby with a planer large enough?

 

[bgaidan]

Is there a commercial wood shop nearby with a planer large enough?

That'd be a huge planer, even for a commercial shop.

Almost everyone uses a sled or a SNC flattener for stuff that size.


Usually they get finished with a big belt-fed drum or belt sander though.

 

[Murse]

**** it for today, gonna be sanding for a week again, end grain walnut is hard as ****.

Ordered Rubio mono coat samples.

That's a really good lookin slab of wood. :nohomo:

 

[CarterKraft]

Is there a commercial wood shop nearby with a planer large enough?

No idea it's over 4' In all dimensions, that's a huge planer in my mind.

 

[CarterKraft]

That'd be a huge planer, even for a commercial shop.

Almost everyone uses a sled or a SNC flattener for stuff that size.


Usually they get finished with a big belt-fed drum or belt sander though.

A drum sander would be awesome but I'm not smart enough to search that type of shop out.

 

[lt1yj]

They’re out there and not that hard to find. My local lumber yard has a 36” sander and when that’s too small a local shop has a 54”. Both take walk ins. They may not be able to fit it in immediately but usually have it done same day. Definitely worth looking into.

First epoxy table took me 4 days to sand by hand. Second one took me less than a day and an extra $75. Best $75 I spent.

 

[subybaja]

****ing nuts that we made it 25 years thus far. 🤣

ETA since it's fairly abstract: the whole thing is a representation of two people.

Wife and I, just now. We got these 14 years ago.

screw your acet reg into a propane tank

I've used propane/oxy at the jewelers bench for years...but I always heard that you couldn't switch back and forth. Something about gas reacting with the hoses and making them brittle. Maybe old wives tale, though.

 

[CarterKraft]

I've used propane/oxy at the jewelers bench for years...but I always heard that you couldn't switch back and forth. Something about gas reacting with the hoses and making them brittle. Maybe old wives tale, though.

I think you have to use a certain grade of hose, one is bisexual the other is oxy only, irc.
I was going to get setup to use propane because it was cheaper and easier but for my limited amount of use it wasn't ever worth the effort to swap.

 

[[486]]

I've used propane/oxy at the jewelers bench for years...but I always heard that you couldn't switch back and forth. Something about gas reacting with the hoses and making them brittle. Maybe old wives tale, though.

meh
never had trouble

 

[Void_of_Light]

I think you have to use a certain grade of hose, one is bisexual the other is oxy only, irc.
I was going to get setup to use propane because it was cheaper and easier but for my limited amount of use it wasn't ever worth the effort to swap.

I ran mine on propane and they told me to get a certain tip, that was for cutting, might be different if you just wanted to heat things up.

 

[[486]]

I ran mine on propane and they told me to get a certain tip, that was for cutting, might be different if you just wanted to heat things up.

WeldingCity® Heavy Shell Propane/Natural Gas Cutting Tip 6290NH-3 Harris Torch | eBay

WeldingCity® 6-MFN-1 #6 Propane/Natural Gas Heating Nozzle Victor 100 Torch | US. TIG Torch Parts. TIG Torch Accessory Kits. Torch Compatibility: Harris 42, 49AF, 49F, 62, 85, 72, 73, 142, 880, etc.

www.ebay.com

get one of these for your cutting setup
you can turn it up until you need earmuffs to run it, big time heat output with nearly zero money investment

the recess in the end holds onto the flame's edges, the acet ones can be put in the lathe and a counterbore can be put into them but they still don't work as well, did it for a rosebud tip

ETA: don't get the larger ones, it is just a larger hole in the center cutting jet, and you really don't want the one that'll cut 15" plate, your torch body and reg don't flow enough to run it
you can get smaller #1 in gouging form, or the 'normal preheat' ones go even smaller (I normally run a 000)

 

[Muckin_Slusher]

My friends widow (now in her 70s) still comes ice fishing with us every weekend, and often during the week as well.

She used to have a Polaris touring sled with some pipe sockets welded on the ski and rear bumper used to stretch a tarp between as a windbreak so she could sit on the sled and jig.

She now has a 08 expedition and would like the same.

It will look like in the picture. I can add round sockets to put poles in, or I could add square sockets if I need the poles to resist turning. I think square would be better because you could wind up the tarp to adjust tension then drop into the socket. The poles would be the blue.

I think I would want a horizontal bar to jam between them to help spread the tarp (green line).

I think I’ll use the 8x12 tarps that are cheap and common.

I need this as simple and light as possible so a 70 year old woman can easy assemble on a windy lake.

I think the tarp should be permanently attached to the poles. Roll up for transport.

Questions:

What should I use for the poles? Plastic pipe, electrical conduit? Both are pricey. Maybe central vac pipe?

How to secure the horizontal tube? Just notch the ends?

If the tarp is rolled around the tube, maybe I should have the spreader bar drop into the poles from above.

Should I only attach the tarp to one pole, then loop around the other and secure with bungees? If I did that I could use a smaller diameter pipe for the spreader and just drill holes in the poles for the spreader to fit inside.

 

[kf4zht]

My friends widow (now in her 70s) still comes ice fishing with us every weekend, and often during the week as well.

She used to have a Polaris touring sled with some pipe sockets welded on the ski and rear bumper used to stretch a tarp between as a windbreak so she could sit on the sled and jig.

She now has a 08 expedition and would like the same.

It will look like in the picture. I can add round sockets to put poles in, or I could add square sockets if I need the poles to resist turning. I think square would be better because you could wind up the tarp to adjust tension then drop into the socket. The poles would be the blue.

I think I would want a horizontal bar to jam between them to help spread the tarp (green line).

I think I’ll use the 8x12 tarps that are cheap and common.

I need this as simple and light as possible so a 70 year old woman can easy assemble on a windy lake.

I think the tarp should be permanently attached to the poles. Roll up for transport.

Questions:

What should I use for the poles? Plastic pipe, electrical conduit? Both are pricey. Maybe central vac pipe?

How to secure the horizontal tube? Just notch the ends?

If the tarp is rolled around the tube, maybe I should have the spreader bar drop into the poles from above.

Should I only attach the tarp to one pole, then loop around the other and secure with bungees? If I did that I could use a smaller diameter pipe for the spreader and just drill holes in the poles for the spreader to fit inside.

Take a look a makerpipe connectors. They go on EMT conduit and make assembling this kind of thing really easy.

 

[billybob_81067]

Wife and I, just now. We got these 14 years ago.

You should have gotten a bolt, unless you're a lesbian!

 

[billybob_81067]

WeldingCity® Heavy Shell Propane/Natural Gas Cutting Tip 6290NH-3 Harris Torch | eBay

WeldingCity® 6-MFN-1 #6 Propane/Natural Gas Heating Nozzle Victor 100 Torch | US. TIG Torch Parts. TIG Torch Accessory Kits. Torch Compatibility: Harris 42, 49AF, 49F, 62, 85, 72, 73, 142, 880, etc.

www.ebay.com

get one of these for your cutting setup
you can turn it up until you need earmuffs to run it, big time heat output with nearly zero money investment

the recess in the end holds onto the flame's edges, the acet ones can be put in the lathe and a counterbore can be put into them but they still don't work as well, did it for a rosebud tip

ETA: don't get the larger ones, it is just a larger hole in the center cutting jet, and you really don't want the one that'll cut 15" plate, your torch body and reg don't flow enough to run it
you can get smaller #1 in gouging form, or the 'normal preheat' ones go even smaller (I normally run a 000)

Man I had a #0 or #1 propane tip on a harris torch and hated that ****ing thing. Took ages to pre-heat enough to get a cut started. Switched to a #3 recently and it's night and day difference. Even with the larger center jet I guarantee you I'm using less oxygen to do the same work because pre-heating is so much faster now.

 

[Murse]

My friends widow (now in her 70s) still comes ice fishing with us every weekend, and often during the week as well.

She used to have a Polaris touring sled with some pipe sockets welded on the ski and rear bumper used to stretch a tarp between as a windbreak so she could sit on the sled and jig.

She now has a 08 expedition and would like the same.

It will look like in the picture. I can add round sockets to put poles in, or I could add square sockets if I need the poles to resist turning. I think square would be better because you could wind up the tarp to adjust tension then drop into the socket. The poles would be the blue.

I think I would want a horizontal bar to jam between them to help spread the tarp (green line).

I think I’ll use the 8x12 tarps that are cheap and common.

I need this as simple and light as possible so a 70 year old woman can easy assemble on a windy lake.

I think the tarp should be permanently attached to the poles. Roll up for transport.

Questions:

What should I use for the poles? Plastic pipe, electrical conduit? Both are pricey. Maybe central vac pipe?

How to secure the horizontal tube? Just notch the ends?

If the tarp is rolled around the tube, maybe I should have the spreader bar drop into the poles from above.

Should I only attach the tarp to one pole, then loop around the other and secure with bungees? If I did that I could use a smaller diameter pipe for the spreader and just drill holes in the poles for the spreader to fit inside.

Seems like a double hammock turned sideways would be a good place to start...

 

[[486]]

Man I had a #0 or #1 propane tip on a harris torch and hated that ****ing thing. Took ages to pre-heat enough to get a cut started. Switched to a #3 recently and it's night and day difference. Even with the larger center jet I guarantee you I'm using less oxygen to do the same work because pre-heating is so much faster now.

the preheat is the same across all the numbers, the number is only the center jet and nothing else
you can get heavy preheat or normal preheat
the heavy preheat ones do only go down to the #3 that I linked, while the normal preheat ones go from 0000 to 6
sounds like you got the heavy preheat tip after using a normal one
I kinda like the normal preheat tip for actual cutting, doesn't seem to melt the kerf back together as badly

 

[dnsfailure]

made a ladder rack/headache thing for my F250. Not sure if I want to put bars and mesh to protect the rear window, or just leave it as is.

I have a removable one for the rear of the bed (fits into the hitch receiver), so I can carry 20' lengths of tube and what not.

 

[[486]]

I have a removable one for the rear of the bed (fits into the hitch receiver), so I can carry 20' lengths of tube and what not.

time for one that sticks to the front bumper
and maybe reconfigures into a towbar
been thinking about such an animal for a bit now

 

[Lincoln]

the preheat is the same across all the numbers, the number is only the center jet and nothing else
you can get heavy preheat or normal preheat
the heavy preheat ones do only go down to the #3 that I linked, while the normal preheat ones go from 0000 to 6
sounds like you got the heavy preheat tip after using a normal one
I kinda like the normal preheat tip for actual cutting, doesn't seem to melt the kerf back together as badly

My dad bought a century torch in the 80's that was setup for propane or acetylene. We have used it almost exclusively on propane. I had it rebuilt last year and they kept the tip so I have been using it on acetylene. I finally grabbed a 000 so hopefully it works well enough. Thanks for the link.

I really don't notice the difference between two besides propane uses a bunch more oxygen. My friend that built trains said every torch in their shop was propane or natural gas because it will burn hotter, no idea if that's true.

The welding shop said the normal hoses don't like patroleum. The hoses that will do both are a little more expensive. The pretty much only order the ones that are patroleum safe.

 

[dnsfailure]

time for one that sticks to the front bumper
and maybe reconfigures into a towbar
been thinking about such an animal for a bit now

yeah, I've been thinking about that as well, figuring out how I can making removable easilly, without messing with the front end much.

 

[45acp]

time for one that sticks to the front bumper
and maybe reconfigures into a towbar
been thinking about such an animal for a bit now

yeah, I've been thinking about that as well, figuring out how I can making removable easilly, without messing with the front end much.

I built one for a friend years ago, that the front cab part was bolt- on. Truck was gmt400, home made offroad-ish/ generic farm use front bumper. Frame of the L was 2" (.120) square tube, it bolted on to the rack at the back of the cab but fit down in home made pockets in the front bumper. I think total length i had it sticking out a foot or 2 in front of the truck. Remove the 2 bolts, it pops right off.

 

[Kilkenny4130]

Big walnut slab entry table, been slacking a long time as I was uncertain of how I wanted to do the legs. Slab was finished with rubio/urethane on live edge in December of 2024, legs are 12 independent walnut cuts, laminated into 3 pieces total for each leg with a fun puzzle joint at each connection. Tested at least a half dozen different joint tolerances until I was happy with it, it's stout. Legs are about 4" thick.

 

[andrew_ln65]

Designed and built my first ever PCB.
This is rev 2 after a couple design & assembly errors on rev 1 that ended up causing a power surge on my PC USB bus and frying a few things on the PCB.

Annoyingly there was still a short from 5v to ground on the rev 2 board (another design error) but I was able to cut the trace and run a bridge wire to bypass the short.

Lots of work to get to this point, pretty stoked to have it power up without letting the smoke out this time. Will load up the firmware tomorrow and see if it really works.

 

[BigMopar440]

Designed and built my first ever PCB.
This is rev 2 after a couple design & assembly errors on rev 1 that ended up causing a power surge on my PC USB bus and frying a few things on the PCB.

Annoyingly there was still a short from 5v to ground on the rev 2 board (another design error) but I was able to cut the trace and run a bridge wire to bypass the short.

Lots of work to get to this point, pretty stoked to have it power up without letting the smoke out this time. Will load up the firmware tomorrow and see if it really works.

What is it for?

 

[PAToyota]

Not sure if I want to put bars and mesh to protect the rear window, or just leave it as is.

Countdown to putting something through the rear window starts now...

 

[arse_sidewards]

Countdown to putting something through the rear window starts now...

I thought the whole point of those was to have some structure to hang bars and mesh from.

 

[Muckin_Slusher]

What is it for?

It is a foundational electronic component that physically supports and electrically connects components using conductive traces on a non-conductive substrate. Common in devices like computers, smartphones, and TVs, they replace manual wiring, ensuring reliable, automated assembly.

 

[Muckin_Slusher]

Picked up some exhaust tube. 1 3/4 id fits inside the vac tubing just right.

Welded some bolts onto the existing trailing arm bolts to mount the front.