Plumbing for shop air?

[JohnnyJ]

Hard to beat this unless you are getting the buddy hook-up

https://www.northerntool.com/products/rapidair-maxline-3-4in-100ft-master-kit-compressed-air-piping-system-model-m7500-20923?cm_mmc=Google-LIA&utm_source=Google_LIA&utm_medium=Air%20Tools%20%2B%20Compressors%20%3E%20Compressed%20Air%20Piping%20%2B%20Accessories%20%3E%20Compressed%20Air%20Piping%20Kits&utm_campaign=MaxLine%20by%20RapidAir&utm_content=20923&ogmap=SHP%7CLIA%7CGOOG%7CSTND%7Cm%7CSITEWIDE%7C%7C%7C%7C%7C856744462%7C42214673463&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI9tGh18PAgAMV2aVaBR2pTQMMEAQYAyABEgJLLvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

I plumbed my shop with this about 6 years ago at the same time I upgraded my compressor. Seemed a lot easier than chasing down various pieces to make my own kit.

I did 3/4” line and reduced it down at the quick connect.

 

[YJBrian]

Product links in the description below the video. There's one way to make your own hoses. Anyone done something similar or used something else?

Made a few custom length hoses for my system using barbed, push in hose ends that have worked great. No fussing with crimpters etc.

Ends: McMaster-Carr
Hose: McMaster-Carr

Of course, this is available in smaller diameters as well.

Anyone know where to get 'springy hose coils,' or what the proper terminology would be to search for? I was trying to look them up on McMaster and striking out.

"coiled air hose" I have a few from Coil Hose Pneumatics and am happy with them. Not the cheapest bur good quality (along with some of their connectors/disconnects)

Coiled Hose | Polyurethane Hose | Nylon Hose | Hosing

coilhose.com

 

[bunk]

Those push on barbed connections will likely last since they are not being moved around. If that was at the end of a hose that was used frequently i give it a week before it would fail.

 

[YJBrian]

Those push on barbed connections will likely last since they are not being moved around. If that was at the end of a hose that was used frequently i give it a week before it would fail.

Agreed, I would not use these on a tool whip, but to connect fixed components like hose reels, nice if you need a custom length

 

[desertPOS]

Made a few custom length hoses for my system using barbed, push in hose ends that have worked great. No fussing with crimpters etc.

Ends: McMaster-Carr
Hose: McMaster-Carr

Of course, this is available in smaller diameters as well.


"coiled air hose" I have a few from Coil Hose Pneumatics and am happy with them. Not the cheapest bur good quality (along with some of their connectors/disconnects)

Coiled Hose | Polyurethane Hose | Nylon Hose | Hosing

coilhose.com

Looks like a clean setup. Got any more pics of the copper tubing in the bg? Is that in leiu of an air dryer or in addition to one? We're mounting the air compressor outside, have a Rapidair dryer, but contemplating whether we should try and do something like this to help mitigate water. I notice with the small compressor that the longer it's running, the more water starts coming through because it's hot - wondering if heat/water will be an issue at all in summertime when it's humid out. Air compressor will have a structure built around it, but not planning to insulate, so not sure how hot days will affect it.

edit: Compressor will be outside the shop in an uninsulated structure, and it gets over 100º most of summer



Got the Amazon parts linked previously, and got one side of the shop plumbed up. Went with a 180º on the first drop to make it easy:

Didn't like the way it looked, and seems like it kind of negates the drain valve. Went with a couple 90ºs on the rest and looks a lot cleaner:

Looks clean from ground level Just missing a few fittings...

Conduit bender seemed pretty helpful for making uniform/clean bends - just clamped it to the table and bent by hand

 

[YJBrian]

Looks like a clean setup. Got any more pics of the copper tubing in the bg? Is that in leiu of an air dryer or in addition to one?

Thanks, tried to make it as neat as possible, I'm just anal that way...

The loops on the wall were an initial attempt to remove water from the air as I was doing a lot of glass bead blasting. It works fairly well and I will get a lot of water out of it after long sessions, but do get some water past the cooler and filter/separator. I have since added a legit air drier and bypass plumbing for blasting/painting and hopefully a future plasma cutter, but have not really run this setup yet.

I've got a hose reel mounted that will reach all corners of the garage and out into the driveway, stubs to extend the piping towards the front of the garage or the third bay is needed. The plumbing wraps into the back bay for the blast cabinet and blow off gun for the sink. The takeoff from the main piping loops up and above to minimize any water making it into the drops and the entire system slopes to drive water thru the piping, and everything is mounted on thin Unistrut with pipe clamps Admittedly, it is overkill and expensive relative to the rapid air kits and knockoffs.

 

[SomeGuyFromOlympia]

Anyone know where to get 'springy hose coils,' or what the proper terminology would be to search for? I was trying to look them up on McMaster and striking out.

Key word 'air hose'

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

 

[desertPOS]

That would probably work, but I went with a bolt-mount retractor - we'll see how it works out

Also bought Parker hose and a bunch of push-loc fittings for air hoses, so we'll see how that works out as well. I think it'll be fine, but if there's an issue with the push-loc fittings I'll just cut them off and try the crimp sleeves I posted above...

 

[rattle_snake]

I run 1/2 blk pipe for air, 6 drops w/ leg. Metal helps cool air. but air is 'dirty' so I have reg/filter combo on most drops.
2 reels, one on lift, other at overhead door. One whip outside which is very useful.

To do again, Al-Pex, because ridged, and a noodle job looks like shit. Big cooler on compressor, one large regulator/filter. $$$

 

[Firstram]

Your shop is way too clean

 

[rattle_snake]

yes can't have it any other way. Mental issues.

 

[Firstram]

Metal can be messy or are you talking about that CDO thing?

 

[rattle_snake]

I'm the asshole that puts tools away while your trying to use them

 

[PAToyota]

I'm the asshole that puts tools away while your trying to use them

Fuck you!

 

[desertPOS]

Thanks, tried to make it as neat as possible, I'm just anal that way...

The loops on the wall were an initial attempt to remove water from the air as I was doing a lot of glass bead blasting. It works fairly well and I will get a lot of water out of it after long sessions, but do get some water past the cooler and filter/separator. I have since added a legit air drier and bypass plumbing for blasting/painting and hopefully a future plasma cutter, but have not really run this setup yet.

I've got a hose reel mounted that will reach all corners of the garage and out into the driveway, stubs to extend the piping towards the front of the garage or the third bay is needed. The plumbing wraps into the back bay for the blast cabinet and blow off gun for the sink. The takeoff from the main piping loops up and above to minimize any water making it into the drops and the entire system slopes to drive water thru the piping, and everything is mounted on thin Unistrut with pipe clamps Admittedly, it is overkill and expensive relative to the rapid air kits and knockoffs.

That's way cleaner than any pex job could be. Looks awesome

I run 1/2 blk pipe for air, 6 drops w/ leg. Metal helps cool air. but air is 'dirty' so I have reg/filter combo on most drops.
2 reels, one on lift, other at overhead door. One whip outside which is very useful.

To do again, Al-Pex, because ridged, and a noodle job looks like shit. Big cooler on compressor, one large regulator/filter. $$$

I think I have a pic saved somewhere of your oilpan shelf Super clean looking shop...

Any pics of cooler on compressor?

 

[desertPOS]

Hanging hose attempt V1 was a fail - retractor I ordered is not strong enough to hold up hose/blower. Mount looks clean but a little on the flimsy side - will order a different retractor and do a V2 later

 

[rattle_snake]

Some other nonsense:

Mount noisy ass comp outside on something with mass. Run piping up the wall as high as possible ( with drip leg) to get water to dropout at beginning, where it has maximum temp drop (unless you run a post cooler).

Milton V connectors = more good than M

You can 'port' your hose reel swivel like a cylinder head for more flow.

I ran drops out the BOTTOM to REMOVE the water from the main line instead of top to keep drops dry. Why? 'cause I want the water out of the main pipe and into the drip leg. Water never gets past the first 3 legs. Main line is run down hill 1/12

Anything droopy will collect water.

 

[CarterKraft]

Some other nonsense:

Mount noisy ass comp outside on something with mass. Run piping up the wall as high as possible ( with drip leg) to get water to dropout at beginning, where it has maximum temp drop (unless you run a post cooler).

Milton V connectors = more good than M

You can 'port' your hose reel swivel like a cylinder head for more flow.

I ran drops out the BOTTOM to REMOVE the water from the main line instead of top to keep drops dry. Why? 'cause I want the water out of the main pipe and into the drip leg. Water never gets past the first 3 legs. Main line is run down hill 1/12

Anything droopy will collect water.

Thats how you do it.

The only thing I have seen different is to run the tee inverted so the branch comes off the top of the run instead the bottom. I suppose the run is supposed to be sloped towards a drain in that case.

 

[bunk]

Hanging hose attempt V1 was a fail - retractor I ordered is not strong enough to hold up hose/blower. Mount looks clean but a little on the flimsy side - will order a different retractor and do a V2 later

Ive done this with 2 pullys and a counterweight.

 

[rattle_snake]

Thats how you do it.

The only thing I have seen different is to run the tee inverted so the branch comes off the top of the run instead the bottom. I suppose the run is supposed to be sloped towards a drain in that case.

That was my original plan. It adds two 90*s and two nipples to each drop, which isn't really a big deal.

My issue is that if the water is intentionally trapped in the 70' of main line, liquid will never reach the end. It will just cling to pipe wall and rust faster. Air is quite dry here in AZ, so in other climates results could be different.

IF the system used non corroding pipe (pex/copper) and a water separator at the compressor and had 'dry' air then I would exit mainline on top and skip a drip leg.

BUT, with cordless tools replacing most air tools, my air system is getting less important. Good enough for plasma, blast cab, paint jobs, and so on.

 

[CarterKraft]

That was my original plan. It adds two 90*s and two nipples to each drop, which isn't really a big deal.

My issue is that if the water is intentionally trapped in the 70' of main line, liquid will never reach the end. It will just cling to pipe wall and rust faster. Air is quite dry here in AZ, so in other climates results could be different.

IF the system used non corroding pipe (pex/copper) and a water separator at the compressor and had 'dry' air then I would exit mainline on top and skip a drip leg.

BUT, with cordless tools replacing most air tools, my air system is getting less important. Good enough for plasma, blast cab, paint jobs, and so on.

Your system is bad ass don't think I'm not knocking it.

I think no matter what you have drains on all pipes that could retain water.
Our system at the shop I am in now has drip legs on the drops but no valves, how dumb is that?

 

[AlxJ64]

Some other nonsense:

Mount noisy ass comp outside on something with mass. Run piping up the wall as high as possible ( with drip leg) to get water to dropout at beginning, where it has maximum temp drop (unless you run a post cooler).

Similar idea here, for the compressor mount. I put mine on a pile and concreted it in. The post had a bunch of rebar and some plates welded to it too so its got plenty of stability and bearing pressure. Its on poly pads between the tank and frame too after a friend pointed out "that thing vibrates right? Don't they install a lot of piles by vibrating them?" Uggh. Doors swing open for easy service and the tank drain is easy to get to and there is a drip leg like yours on the wall behind it.

 

[rattle_snake]

I like the shed with 3 walls open. My shed has one door to access the front, but I had the head gasket fail on mine (only 25 years) and had to remove some skin to break down the machine.

For isolation, I used some rubber horse trailer mat and a sleeve to make a floating anchor.

 

[wvracer821]

I need to work on a better muffler and rubber mounting the feet. my shop is a huge echo chamber

 

[GLTHFJ60]

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

Expensive, but worth every penny for quieting down the intake on my big compressor.

 

[Gumbybronco]

I decided to give the McMaster-Carr silencer a try. Thanks GLTHFJ60
It arrived quick.
I’m in the process of building an enclosure for my compressor and want to quiet it a bit for me and my neighbors. It’s under the stairs to the upper part of the shop. I’ll enclose the portion shown and add waffle foam and baffled vents when done. I wasn't sure how to seal a roof around the posts and decided to use a rubber rv roof coating.

I’m using a db app on my phone:

ambient 39db

before 76db

sound mat on tank 75db

silencer 70db (60db inside)

enclosure TBD

 

[Firstram]

I decided to give the McMaster-Carr silencer a try. Thanks GLTHFJ60
It arrived quick.
I’m in the process of building an enclosure for my compressor and want to quiet it a bit for me and my neighbors. It’s under the stairs to the upper part of the shop. I’ll enclose the portion shown and add waffle foam and baffled vents when done. I wasn't sure how to seal a roof around the posts and decided to use a rubber rv roof coating.

I’m using a db app on my phone:

ambient 39db

before 76db

sound mat on tank 75db

silencer 70db (60db inside)

enclosure TBD

Mount the silencer to the wall add a piece of 1" rubber hose between the pump and silencer. Should knock the sound down a little more and eliminate the chance of anything cracking from the vibration!

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Mount the silencer to the wall add a piece of 1" rubber hose between the pump and silencer. Should knock the sound down a little more and eliminate the chance of anything cracking from the vibration!

Definitely the best way to do it. I don't have an enclosure yet so mine is just screwed vertically onto the compressor head with a street 90. No issues so far, and the compressor just has hockey pucks as isolators on the feet of the tank.

 

[Gumbybronco]

Mount the silencer to the wall add a piece of 1" rubber hose between the pump and silencer. Should knock the sound down a little more and eliminate the chance of anything cracking from the vibration!

I can change it to a rubber hose and remote mount once I get the enclosure built. I just wanted to see the difference with just the silencer. I do have rubber isolators under the feet.
I have a few projects, so I’m not sure when the enclosure will be built.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I can change it to a rubber hose and remote mount once I get the enclosure built. I just wanted to see the difference with just the silencer. I do have rubber isolators under the feet.
I have a few projects, so I’m not sure when the enclosure will be built.

Db is lograthmic, so a 5db decrease is pretty good. I didn't measure the sound levels, but it's a dramatic difference in my application.

Did you think the same for yours?