Painting frame and crossmember and such? Chassis Saver?

[PAE]

Windex is water based other thinners and acetone are not.

Thats the best explanation i can give at the moment.

In my experience water induces rust and solvents inhibits rust.

Most likely as solvents are made from petroleum base.

 

[gt1guy]

I've been using Gibbs oil on bare metal to keep rust away. Got the idea from MCuttler on pirate. That shit flat out works. You can paint right over it and you can weld right over it. I honestly wasn't so sure about that when I first bought it. So, I tested it out. Wiped down a couple pieces of scrap and instantly welded them together before it could dry. Welded like there was nothing on the metal. Slathered it on some scrap and let it sit for a while then spray bombed it. Paint stuck like I had wiped it down with solvent first.

I buy Gibbs oil by the case now. https://www.gibbsbrandlubricant.com/index.htm

 

[SLOWPOKE693]

I've been using Gibbs oil on bare metal to keep rust away. Got the idea from MCuttler on pirate. That shit flat out works. You can paint right over it and you can weld right over it. I honestly wasn't so sure about that when I first bought it. So, I tested it out. Wiped down a couple pieces of scrap and instantly welded them together before it could dry. Welded like there was nothing on the metal. Slathered it on some scrap and let it sit for a while then spray bombed it. Paint stuck like I had wiped it down with solvent first.

I buy Gibbs oil by the case now. https://www.gibbsbrandlubricant.com/index.htm

Interesting.

 

[CDA 455 II]

I've been using Gibbs oil on bare metal to keep rust away. Got the idea from MCuttler on pirate. That shit flat out works. You can paint right over it and you can weld right over it. I honestly wasn't so sure about that when I first bought it. So, I tested it out. Wiped down a couple pieces of scrap and instantly welded them together before it could dry. Welded like there was nothing on the metal. Slathered it on some scrap and let it sit for a while then spray bombed it. Paint stuck like I had wiped it down with solvent first.

I buy Gibbs oil by the case now. https://www.gibbsbrandlubricant.com/index.htm

It's a lubricant.

How long does it stay on whatever surface it's sprayed on?

Does it dry?

Interesting.

Yeah; X2

 

[subybaja]

I posted a similar question in my flatdeck thread in the tow rig section, and most everyone said they hadn't had success with POR15 or similar products. I'm going to end up blasting mine with tremclad I think.

Yeah, but most people's idea of prep is to wipe off 1/2 of the mud with Windex. POR works beautifully IF YOU FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS! Degrease/ospho/paint with their products. If you give it a quick wipe with acetone then paint, it'll peel off in sheets.

Like knocking the worst of the rust off with a wire brush before you powdercoat, then bitching that it doesn't last. :rolleyes:

I used military surplus primer and paint.

http://www.rapcoparts.com/padenew.html

Rapco's not surplus, as far as I know?

 

[dnsfailure]

I sprayed the A arms, sway bar, spindles and a few other items. They turned out pretty good. I'll try and take a few photos of them for yall in the morning. :-D

 

[gt1guy]

It's a lubricant.

How long does it stay on whatever surface it's sprayed on?

Does it dry?



Yeah; X2

Yes, it does dry. I have wiped it on bare metal and months later it looks exactly the same. My front frame section has been installed for over a year now, bare metal with Gibbs, no signs of surface rust. I have been working around the engine cage lately, it's all been Gibbs'd, I do find where I lay my sweaty arms across the tubes, it will get surface rust. I just give it a quick wipe with the Gibbs again and all is good.
So it not infallible, like anything I guess. But I've never seen anything that works as good as it does.

Another neat feature is the cap. Push down hard and it will shoot a 10' stream. A light push down and it will drip out.

 

[SLOWPOKE693]

I sprayed the A arms, sway bar, spindles and a few other items. They turned out pretty good. I'll try and take a few photos of them for yall in the morning. :-D

Nice.

Post up those pics

 

[WaterH]

I've been using Gibbs oil on bare metal to keep rust away. Got the idea from MCuttler on pirate. That shit flat out works. You can paint right over it and you can weld right over it. I honestly wasn't so sure about that when I first bought it. So, I tested it out. Wiped down a couple pieces of scrap and instantly welded them together before it could dry. Welded like there was nothing on the metal. Slathered it on some scrap and let it sit for a while then spray bombed it. Paint stuck like I had wiped it down with solvent first.

I buy Gibbs oil by the case now. https://www.gibbsbrandlubricant.com/index.htm

That is quite an endorsement. I went to there site and it sounds like they claim to be a better WD40. (Kind of like Corrosion X) They don't claim to be for welding over. (They don't mention either way) They do claim to be good after welding. The most amazing line in your post is about painting after application. I really find that hard to believe. I guess I'm going to order some. Do you recommend the 12oz spraycan for my first test?

 

[PAE]

Here is my M1031 CUCV both frame and cab painted with military paint talked about earlier in the thread.

 

[gt1guy]

That is quite an endorsement. I went to there site and it sounds like they claim to be a better WD40. (Kind of like Corrosion X) They don't claim to be for welding over. (They don't mention either way) They do claim to be good after welding. The most amazing line in your post is about painting after application. I really find that hard to believe. I guess I'm going to order some. Do you recommend the 12oz spraycan for my first test?

I emailed them about the welding/painting over it. I believe it was from Mcuttlers thread where he mentioned welding. They said welding shouldn't affect it and it can be painted over in the email. Which as I said before, led me to test that theory.



Here's parts of a thread I started about it on JKO: Naturally VS fucked all my pictures

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gt1guy

Discussion Starter • #1 • Jan 1, 2018

Not the Joe Gibbs racing engine oils, it's a different Gibbs and it's a penetrating/ conditioning oil than can be painted over.

Welcome to GIBBS Brand Lubricant

My question is this:

Has anyone used this product and then welded over it at a later time?

I want to use it on bare metal on my build, but will need to come back and weld over it at times. I would definitely hit the places to be welded with acetone or something similar prior to the welding.

I just don't want to use it only to find out all I get from welding is swiss cheese and porosity. That's not going to cut it on a cage.

Would love to hear any and all real world experiences with this product and welding.

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gt1guy


Discussion Starter • #2 • Jan 5, 2018

Well, I figured I should follow this up with the fact that I contacted Gibbs and they said their product can be welded over and even painted over. It contains no oils.

So I have a case on the way. I'm going to put it on the bare metal I have already installed on the Jeep and even the new metal I have waiting to be used.


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Snout


#3 • Jan 5, 2018

10-30% 2-Proponol
20-40% Heptane
30-70% 14 herbs and spices and Pixie Jizz (Petroleum Distillates)

Sounds to me like alcohol + CFC-free Solvent to deposit the goods + naptha


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Ringer


#4 • Jan 5, 2018

Interested to see how this works. I may get some if you like it.


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gt1guy


Discussion Starter • #5 • Jan 6, 2018

Tracking says it should be at the house on Monday. I got the idea from mcutler1 on Pirate. He's running a bare metal cage on his build and swears by the stuff. I had never heard of it before.


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Chuck the ripper


#6 • Jan 6, 2018

If he swears by it I wouldn't doubt it's great. You now have my attention, lol.


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gt1guy


Discussion Starter • #7 • Jan 10, 2018

Got to play with it today.

Did a test on a piece of 18ga cold roll. Coated one side and tossed it outside. I'll keep checking it to see what happens.

Did a little weld test too. Sprayed it on some scrap and DIDN'T wipe it off. Then welded right over it. It didn't effect the weld at all, nothing. No difference.

I always wipe down everything I weld with acetone anyway, but it's nice to know if I miss a bit of the Gibbs in some nook or cranny, nothing is going to happen.

So I went ahead and wiped down the new front frame rails. Followed the directions, squirt some on a rag, wipe metal, wipe down with clean rag.
I did notice that it didn't do anything to the paint pen marks on the frame, but it did remove marks from a Sharpie. It's just something that I noticed.

This is after I applied the Gibbs.

I also tried painting on it. Wiped it on a spot on 16ga hot roll, right over the mill scale, then gave it a little rub with a clean rag, followed directly by hitting the spot with rattle can rustoleum primer.
Acted like it went directly to the metal. I'll get a pic tomorrow when I dig around on the spot with a screwdriver.

So, first impression is that this stuff is awesome. We'll have to wait and see what the cold roll outside in the back yard says in a few weeks.



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gt1guy


Discussion Starter • #8 • Jan 12, 2018

Checked the piece of cold roll I put Gibbs on one side and tossed in the yard.

Gibbs side

Non Gibbs side

Didn't take but a couple days for the rust to start on the non-Gibbs side. Treated side looked pristine.

And here is the hot roll I tested painting over the Gibbs on. The time between applying the Gibbs and painting was only long enough to make a few marks with a sharpie and a paint pen. Sharpie and paint pen went on just like normal, as did the spray paint. You can see how the sharpie bled through the spray paint just like it normally would.

Spray paint dried as if nothing was between it and the metal. Even digging a screwdriver around in it didn't peal it up.

I have to say, this stuff is pretty amazing. Lots of things stop rust from forming, but you ain't painting over it, or welding over it.

 

[WaterH]

Thanks, I just ordered two cans. I might do some testing and report back.

 

[dnsfailure]

Man, yeah definitely report back. That stuff sounds like magic. I've got alot of bare steel on my 33 right now just in a covered carport, would love to protect it a bit and not have to clean it off to weld.

 

[Jeffh555]

How messy is it? It sounds like a great solution for me, I plan to have a chassis in my garage that I’m working on a couple hours every other day. Are my clothes gonna get wrecked when I reach over the chassis to get more toilet paper from my Covid stash?

 

[dnsfailure]

Here was my setup, had parts hanging all around the yard . 3 coats of primer, and 3 coats of black enamel paint.

then brought them back inside for the night to dry. The finish turned out pretty good, we'll see how it holds up :-)

 

[dnsfailure]

I think these need more than 24-48 hours to fully dry. I assembled one of the spindles, and the paint seems easy to damage. I'll let these sit for a week, then come back to them. In the mean time, start spraying more items.

How long do yall wait for things to dry before working with them? They seem perfectly dry to the touch, but if you bump them against something, the paint is definitely not fully dried/cured. It's about 70-80 degrees during the day, 55 at night. Humidity probably less than 30%

Probably doesn't get quite as cold inside the garage, though I don't have a temp gauge in there. If it would help, I could leave a heater going in there for a few nights.

 

[arse_sidewards]

I think these need more than 24-48 hours to fully dry. I assembled one of the spindles, and the paint seems easy to damage. I'll let these sit for a week, then come back to them. In the mean time, start spraying more items.

How long do yall wait for things to dry before working with them? They seem perfectly dry to the touch, but if you bump them against something, the paint is definitely not fully dried/cured. It's about 70-80 degrees during the day, 55 at night. Humidity probably less than 30%

Probably doesn't get quite as cold inside the garage, though I don't have a temp gauge in there. If it would help, I could leave a heater going in there for a few nights.

I generally brush on oil based rustoleum in black or silver for chassis parts. I try to paint on Sunday and let things sit the work week before going on and that seems to work fine. It definitely takes a month or so for the paint to get to full hardness. The same paint in spray form dries much faster. I assume they put more hardener in it to make it cure faster.

 

[JohnnyJ]

I'm using Eastwood Rust Bullet with their top coat on my daughter's TJ. The Rust bullet is thick, but not as thick as Chassis Saver. Sprayed ok with HF HVLP gun. Maybe could have cut it, but it seemed fine. Their top coat looks good.

My biggest issue is I underbought, and then in true Murphy's Law fashion, the paint that was supposed to be here last Wed was damaged/lost by Fedex and now I'm waiting for the replacement. Eastwood hasn't been helpful in getting my order fixed, so that's a bummer. Now I'm 3/4 done and waiting on supplies. Should have bought extra up front, but I've generally had tons of extra product left to sit and rot and was trying to prevent that.


I used Chassis Save in the past with no top coat. I brushed and rolled it on. Seemed to smooth out well and was mega-thick. Held up well.

 

[dnsfailure]

Soo... back to the paint again! I'm almost ready to paint the front of the frame and cross member, just need to box in the rest of the frame.

Since the majority of the frame is already painted (and in exorrent condition), how would you "feather" the new primer and paint into the old?

I'm honestly not worried about seeing a transition, it won't bother me in the least. But I like to take any opportunity to learn something new whenever I can. So, for learning sake, how would you transition from the existing painted frame, to the bare metal?

My thinking is that I would tape off the existing paint a few inches behind the bare metal, prime and paint everything, and then when it's all final and dry, remove the masking and then just lightly spray the black paint around the transition area to make it less obvious.

I haven't yet removed all the paint on the front, will do that before I prime. Right now I've just removed what I needed to for welding.

 

[gt1guy]

I'd be interested in how you feather in new paint to old too.

My approach to painting on my Jeep has been "feed the runs", which isn't good advice to anyone.

 

[WaterH]

I'm certainly no paint expert, but in that case, why not just clean 6" beyond the transition point and only paint 3"?

 

[SLOWPOKE693]

Why not make the transition at the firewall to hide it better? I know you said you didn't care if you could see it but honestly that would drive me crazy!

 

[dnsfailure]

Since you fawkers can't post up results, I went ahead and ordered a few cans of the Gibbs shit, and tried it out myself.

Put a light coat of it on these metal parts yesterday, and welded it today. This part here is where the Gibbs shit was. Welded just fine, except for my shitty welding technique.

 

[WaterH]

Since you fawkers can't post up results, I went ahead and ordered a few cans of the Gibbs shit, and tried it out myself.]

I ordered it when I said. I still don't have the two cans I ordered. I keep getting e-mails saying it will be delivered tomarrow. So far my results arnt so good.

 

[Betarocker]

If using the same paint, clean the bare metal well, and scuff the painted area and use a cleaner/degreaser which won't affect the paint. Clean/degrease further on the paint than the scuff. Since paint sticks to primer, primer sticks to paint. Prime the bare metal and feather over over the previous paint. Then paint over the the primer and feather over the previous paint.

 

[WaterH]

I ordered it when I said. I still don't have the two cans I ordered. I keep getting e-mails saying it will be delivered tomarrow. So far my results arnt so good.

So after I posted this the cans arrived alittle later. The day before I got a bunch of new stuff for my welder. I thought great, I can play with the welder and test the Gibbs stuff too. Of course my power switch burned up when it turned on the welder. It's like a light switch, only its 40 amps/240volts. Nobody local has one, so I'm waiting for that now. Lol.

 

[arse_sidewards]

So after I posted this the cans arrived alittle later. The day before I got a bunch of new stuff for my welder. I thought great, I can play with the welder and test the Gibbs stuff too. Of course my power switch burned up when it turned on the welder. It's like a light switch, only its 40 amps/240volts. Nobody local has one, so I'm waiting for that now. Lol.

DC tombstone with the stupid 4-pole single throw switch that disconnects both hot lines? Have fun changing it. You gotta pull the whole welder apart and then you figure out that the OEM switch has screws that unscrew all the way so the ring terminals can go on but the replacement doesn't so you gotta cobble something together.

 

[WaterH]

DC tombstone with the stupid 4-pole single throw switch that disconnects both hot lines? Have fun changing it. You gotta pull the whole welder apart and then you figure out that the OEM switch has screws that unscrew all the way so the ring terminals can go on but the replacement doesn't so you gotta cobble something together.

Not sure what a tombstone is. Mine was easy to get to after pulling the cover. The switch was riveted on. (Kind of weird) I drilled them and the screws came out fine. The new switch I have coming is identical. I won't be riveting it.

 

[dnsfailure]

Well, it's been over a week for the suspension parts, and not quite a week for the frame since painting them.

I'm not thrilled about how tough the paint is, I have nicked it a few times by hitting a part with a wrench slightly. Not hard enough to what I think should break the paint, but it did. Hopefully it's still just not fully cured. Seems like it should be tougher.

But anyway, everything black here in the photo forward of the motor mounts has been primered and painted, except for the coil springs and brake calipers, which were already painted.

Suspension parts and sway bar were sprayed, frame and crossmembers were brushed.

​

​

 

[WaterH]

Just a quick update. I got a couple cans of the Gibbs stuff. I took a piece of 1/4" scrap steel and ran the grinder on one side till it was shiny. Than I sprayed the whole thing liberally and set it outside. After a week it looks like this.

Theres no rust on the parts i didnt grind, but I can't say I'm impressed. It has rained almost every day, so I'm not saying it's worse than wd40, just don't know if it's better. Haven't tried welding it yet.