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Painting frame and crossmember and such? Chassis Saver?

dnsfailure

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On my 33 Chevy project, I have a new IFS crossmember and frame boxing to do, and some tubular A-arms. All the steel in question is bare, and absolutely no rust.

I'd like the finish to be black, either glossy or semi-gloss, probably semi-gloss I guess. I don't particularly care if there are minor brush marks left behind, the front crossmember really won't be seen that much anyway.

I'm not going for car-show quality here, it's going to be a driver, I really just want to keep it protected from rust, not be affected much by possible oil, fuel, and coolant spills (hey, I'm clumsy...) and not flake off as it will eventually see a lot of road miles.



Is Chassis Saver a good product for this? Can it be applied with a brush/roller? (I don't have a sprayer)



Are there any rattle-can products that would be good for this? For primer, I already I have quite a few cans of Rustoleum Automotive Self-Etching primer.
 
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ANGRYBLACK

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From my experiences. You just need to keep the oxygen away from the metal. Go with Rustoleum oil base. It's easy to touch up at any time without much effort. If you leave it exposed to the elements it will fade and weather but I don't mind scuffing it and respraying it every few years.

If you wan't it to last and never chip off look into the POR15 2 part epoxy.
 

Squamch

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I posted a similar question in my flatdeck thread in the tow rig section, and most everyone said they hadn't had success with POR15 or similar products. I'm going to end up blasting mine with tremclad I think.
 

dnsfailure

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From my experiences. You just need to keep the oxygen away from the metal. Go with Rustoleum oil base. It's easy to touch up at any time without much effort. If you leave it exposed to the elements it will fade and weather but I don't mind scuffing it and respraying it every few years.

If you wan't it to last and never chip off look into the POR15 2 part epoxy.

The oil based Rustoleum, like this? Looks like it's sold locally at lowes, flat, semigloss and gloss. both brush on and spray on.

Click image for larger version  Name:	673840.jpg Views:	0 Size:	20.9 KB ID:	30144


673840.jpg
 

dnsfailure

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Used that stuff many times, sprayed it and rolled it great results.

is it compatible with their "self etching primer"? I believe they are both oil based (edit) actually looking at the can of primer, I don't see anywhere that it says oil based. not sure where I got that from. (edit2) yes, on home depots site it states it's oil based. should be compatible then?
 
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SLOWPOKE693

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I've used the greenish Rust-Oleum self etching spray primer with their pro grade oil based paint lots of times. Works great together. And if its prepped right the paint will stay stuck for years. :smokin:

Most recently I used that combo to paint the winch cradle and winch guard tubes on my wifes Jeep. You would never know it wasn't powder coated.
 

dnsfailure

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I've used the greenish Rust-Oleum self etching spray primer with their pro grade oil based paint lots of times. Works great together. And if its prepped right the paint will stay stuck for years. :smokin:

Thanks! Yeah, the greenish grey stuff.

I've usually used acetone to clean metal parts before spraying, but I notice on the self etching primer can it states to use mineral spirits. I have both. Does it really matter? I'm not much of a paint person, if I could I'd leave everything bare metal :rolleyes:
 

SLOWPOKE693

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I always use acetone.

Scuff up the material with a red scotch brite pad.
Spray two coats of primer
Scuff primer with green scotch brite pad when dry
Wipe with a tack cloth
Paint




20190923_235934.jpg
 

dnsfailure

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I think that's what I'll go with, thanks. I've already got the primer, I'll pick up a can of the enamel.
 

crispins

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is it compatible with their "self etching primer"? I believe they are both oil based (edit) actually looking at the can of primer, I don't see anywhere that it says oil based. not sure where I got that from. (edit2) yes, on home depots site it states it's oil based. should be compatible then?

I have never primed with it.

it is oil based so if your primer is oil it should be fine
 

CDA 455 II

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I posted a similar question in my flatdeck thread in the tow rig section, and most everyone said they hadn't had success with POR15 or similar products. I'm going to end up blasting mine with tremclad I think.

I'm a fan of Rust Bullet.

I'm wondering how Tremclad is better than Rust Bullet.


My only concern is, the product that provides coverage, peeling off.

Since I'm focused on frame and suspension brackets; I don't care about the finish.
I just just want rust/corrosion protection.
 

dnsfailure

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That's what I used on all my workbenches, it's tough and can take a beating.

Thanks! Do you spray, or brush it? I picked up both this morning. I'm going to spray the control arms and smaller parts, and brush for the frame and crossmember. How many coats do you do? I assume with spray, you would need more than when brushing. I'm not in a hurry, so I might as well put on several coats.

I'll post the photos when they are done, in my 33 build thread. I didn't want to clog it up with paint questions.
 
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crispins

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Thanks! Do you spray, or brush it? I picked up both this morning. I'm going to spray the control arms and smaller parts, and brush for the frame and crossmember. How many coats do you do? I assume with spray, you would need more than when brushing. I'm not in a hurry, so I might as well put on several coats.

I'll post the photos when they are done, in my 33 build thread. I didn't want to clog it up with paint questions.

I find I use less when spraying.

I thin it with Napatha, I think like 30% or so.
 

gt1guy

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Thanks! Do you spray, or brush it? I picked up both this morning. I'm going to spray the control arms and smaller parts, and brush for the frame and crossmember. How many coats do you do? I assume with spray, you would need more than when brushing. I'm not in a hurry, so I might as well put on several coats.


I just rolled it on. Wiped bare metal with acetone, two coats primer, two coats paint. There are some little lines from using the roller, but being workbenches, I didn't care. I also rolled it on my rear armor for the Jeep. If it gets scratched, I'll roll on more.

It's pretty thick stuff.
 

SLOWPOKE693

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When brushing it on I do 2 coats. The first one never covers completely, especially with the lighter colored primer.

I also figured out the the warmer the material and air temp are when brushing, the flatter it will lay out.
 

Aisin

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Rustoleum self etching primer is garbage. It doesn’t contain the correct acid to etch the metal. There is a reason real self etching primer is $20 and up for a can. The only thing a friend and I use is SEM self etching primer. It’s about $23 a can with military discount.
 

CDA 455 II

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Rustoleum self etching primer is garbage. It doesn’t contain the correct acid to etch the metal. There is a reason real self etching primer is $20 and up for a can. The only thing a friend and I use is SEM self etching primer. It’s about $23 a can with military discount.

One of the things I like about Rust Bullet is the minimal prep work.

Especially if you're dealing with naked metal.


I just got Sky Offroad Design rear leaf spring brackets that I ordered in raw metal.

Before I bolt them up I plan on wiping them down using Windex, and then apply a couple coats of Rust Bullet industrial strength coating.
 

PAE

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Full disclosure here I did sand blast the entire chassis before taking it to the paint shop.

And it seems since this job was done most places ive enquired about doing more of this kind of labor have declined it.

They dont like to shoot this type of paint, so if you are thinking of going this route make sure the shop will shoot this type of paint.

Colors are also very limited but I am reproducing the M1031 CUCV look so it works for me.

Same shop (burned to ground in the camp fire) also shot my cab.


/
Interesting. :jeep:
 

PAE

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Windex WTF...

You love rust dont ya..

Laquer thinner is what you wipe down bare metal with or acetone.


Before I bolt them up I plan on wiping them down using Windex, and then apply a couple coats of Rust Bullet industrial strength coating.
 

Action Fab

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So, I'm painting a ton of oil field pipe and have this system going.

Spray with Ospho, let sit overnight. This stuff is pretty awesome.

Paint 2 coats of oil base tractor primer

Paint 2 coats of oil base Sherwin Williams outdoor enamel with M-1 oil based additive. It's a hardener that helps with leveling and it's supposed to help with adhesion.

I'm using a 4" 3/8 nap roller. You'd be amazed how well it's turning out. Very smooth, shiny finish. I can get all 4 coats on in a day between dry cycles.
 

92 Green YJ

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I’ve used Chassis Saver a few times. Most recently as the base coat on my axles. It’s good stuff. For my actual frame I used a Chassis paint from Summit Racing.
 

CDA 455 II

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Windex WTF...

You love rust dont ya..

Laquer thinner is what you wipe down bare metal with or acetone.
I have acetone; so I'll use that instead. :beer:


Please educate me;
How does using Windex/letting it completely dry/and then applying the coating/cause rust???:confused:

How does it matter; just as long as the liquid I use to clean the metal, dries thoroughly?


I. Know. Not.

That's why I'm asking. :emb2:
 
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