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One ton hydro boost

RustyC said:
Making the pedal ratio less would also increase feel / input effort from the driver.
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I'm looking at Vanco's site right now and this is what I see:
1697741792846.png


So I'm going to order the 1 5/16" master and go from there. (if the 1.25" bore one I have doesn't feel better)

Pedal ratio shouldnt be too different from vac boosted to Hydro i'd think.
 
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Joe Factor Sales Burbank Ca might have it, or a place in Ontario Ca, cant remember the name at the moment.


Bebop said:
Yes it would.
But I don't knon of any AN version of this.
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Tiha said:
PS pump to hydroboost.

Hydroboost to Steering box.

Also Hydroboost to reservoir

Steering box to cooler.

Cooler to reservior.

Remote reservoir so back to PS pump.

Same routing no matter what, ported or not.

Some guys find reservoirs with 2 return fittings, I did not, I have a 3/8" brass Tee about 3 inches from my reservoir. No negative effects I am aware of.

I didn't take a pic, but I got a PS cooler from like a jeep GC or trailblazer, they are long and thing, fit perfectly between my front spring shackles.
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So your system has two reservoirs?

One for the brake master cylinder and and the other (remote reservoir) mounted to the fire wall:
1697747349512.png
 
Finally got this junk sorted out.

Was a bastard to bleed the rear out. The stupid plastic PV2/PV4 bleed tool snapped the tip off when the junk shifted.

Amazon'd an aluminum one and it fixed the problem. Was able to bleed the rears out finally. And the valves no longer shifting instantly.

This is with the 1.25" master and it seems to work good and have a decent pedal not as much feedback as with vac boosted but enough.

Will see how it does on the road soon.
 
CDA 455 II said:
So your system has two reservoirs?

One for the brake master cylinder and and the other (remote reservoir) mounted to the fire wall:
1697747349512.png
Click to expand...
Nope just one.

The remote reservoir is for Power steering fluid.

I swapped to the 6.0 ford PS pump. Using the Van bracket. It has no reservoir like the OEM one did. So I had to find a place to put the reservior.
Right there is the only spot I had open because of the big Air filter I run.

Also mounted it there so I could get all of the lines to run up or downhill so no chance of air lock in them.
 
Winchested said:
Finally got this junk sorted out.

Was a bastard to bleed the rear out. The stupid plastic PV2/PV4 bleed tool snapped the tip off when the junk shifted.

Amazon'd an aluminum one and it fixed the problem. Was able to bleed the rears out finally. And the valves no longer shifting instantly.

This is with the 1.25" master and it seems to work good and have a decent pedal not as much feedback as with vac boosted but enough.

Will see how it does on the road soon.
Click to expand...

Is there any bias valving in the system? Like as part of the master cylinder to the rear drum brakes? You have to gut it when you installed read disk brakes.

Also you are on the right track with swapping master cylinders for pedal feel.

No there isn't really feed back like on a vac system.

But if you find it takes too much pedal effort to stop then use a smaller master, trade off is longer pedal travel.

If you want less pedal travel then use larger bore master. But it will take more foot pressure to stop.

You have a lighter vehicle but to be honest I could never get the eldorado calipers to work as well as I thought they should have and swapped to a dual piston setup.

It was like the calipers wouldn't do anything until they would lock up the rear tires. No in between.

I had spent hours looking for master cylinders setup for the proper bore sizes I had. ended up with a 99 ford expedition was very close to same front and rear caliper bore sizes.
After that didn't make the brakes work like I thought they should I went to dual piston calipers and could not be happier.
 
I've got a disk brake 2001 14 bolt here waiting to be built when I have an extra $1000 bucks to rebuild it and do another TMR bottom shave plate . I'm out driving the junk now and going to test some hard braking on back rds.
 
Tiha said:
Is there any bias valving in the system? Like as part of the master cylinder to the rear drum brakes? You have to gut it when you installed read disk brakes.

Also you are on the right track with swapping master cylinders for pedal feel.

No there isn't really feed back like on a vac system.

But if you find it takes too much pedal effort to stop then use a smaller master, trade off is longer pedal travel.

If you want less pedal travel then use larger bore master. But it will take more foot pressure to stop.

You have a lighter vehicle but to be honest I could never get the eldorado calipers to work as well as I thought they should have and swapped to a dual piston setup.

It was like the calipers wouldn't do anything until they would lock up the rear tires. No in between.

I had spent hours looking for master cylinders setup for the proper bore sizes I had. ended up with a 99 ford expedition was very close to same front and rear caliper bore sizes.
After that didn't make the brakes work like I thought they should I went to dual piston calipers and could not be happier.
Click to expand...
No bias valving at all. Very rare to see master cyls that have those in them anymore (residual valves). And it's a PV4 gm style brake combination valve for disk/disk. (pV2 is disk/drum) the test drive was good but I use 1/2 to 2/3rds the pedal before brakes really catch. I think if I step up to the bigger master cyl it would be better but not making any changes til I get the Disk brake 14 bolt built. Prob need the bigger master then for the dual Piston rear calipers.

PV4 valve on uses the proportion section to the rears under high pressure hard braking so it doesn't lock them up.
 
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