One ton hydro boost

[Wonton_yota]

Who has converted to hydroboost on one ton axles? I have a 60 and a 10.5 sterling out of a 08 F250 in my toyota. I took the Hydro boost and master cylinder out of it and installed it in my rig, but the reservoir is way too tall to fit under my hood. Built a custom aluminum reservoir for it, but can’t stop it from leaking. I’ve been wanting to swap the master cylinder but the biggest bore Wilwood makes is 1_1/8. The Powerstroke master cylinder is a 1.5 bore. Could I get away with running a smaller bore mc? I have a GM 1 ton master cylinder that is a 1_1/4 bore but it’s for a vacuum booster. Kind of stumped at this point, wanted to see what you guys are running for master cylinder with your powerstroke brake calipers.

 

[Clb]

Get a real remote reservoir already, drill and tap the ports on m.c.

 

[Tiha]

There are other bore size options, just have to try one and see how you like it.

The first problem will be your PS output, if it has enough pressure and flow. Pressure usually being the biggest downfall. Most pumps, even the ones that come from factory are lacking.

Smaller bore MCs are easier to push, softer pedal, but longer pedal travel.
Bigger bore MCs are harder to push but less pedal travel.

So I say try one. Try the 1.5" and see how much you hate it.

I think I am running 1 1/4" on my F350 with an upgraded PS pump and it is pretty much perfect for me.

1 5/16" made the pedal feel more factory but didn't like the effort it took to stop.
Now my 1995 F350 feels and stops like my 2014 F250.

 

[JR4X]

I run hydroboost on everything if I can. My crawler has a Vanco unit which I believe is a modified Dodge 1ton part from a Cummins truck. It uses the factory Dodge master cylinder with a low profile plastic snap on reservoir. Works amazing even with the crappy little half ton brake components I put on the one ton axles because for some reason it seemed like an imperative at one time to fit 15” wheels on 1 ton axles

I had a crawler with a factory GM hydroboost setup off of a 6.2/6.5 diesel truck. Used real brake components on that one. 13 inch wilwood vented rotors and 4 piston calipers. If you breathed on the pedal it would lock up all 4 tires.

My old gasser 1 ton Ford has a hydroboost setup for a Superduty swapped into it. Was cheaper than repairing the vac boost system. Best cheapest upgrade I’ve ever done.

Relevance to the OP, whatever master you can make fit under the hood should give you killer stopping power.

 

[Bebop]

Who has converted to hydroboost on one ton axles? I have a 60 and a 10.5 sterling out of a 08 F250 in my toyota. I took the Hydro boost and master cylinder out of it and installed it in my rig, but the reservoir is way too tall to fit under my hood. Built a custom aluminum reservoir for it, but can’t stop it from leaking. I’ve been wanting to swap the master cylinder but the biggest bore Wilwood makes is 1_1/8. The Powerstroke master cylinder is a 1.5 bore. Could I get away with running a smaller bore mc? I have a GM 1 ton master cylinder that is a 1_1/4 bore but it’s for a vacuum booster. Kind of stumped at this point, wanted to see what you guys are running for master cylinder with your powerstroke brake calipers.

2008 Duramax MC is 1-5/16. Works great with the same calipers you have and a 6:1 pedal

 

[rattle_snake]

I run a HB on tons, 1-1/8 MC.

Super duty was 1-1/4
either should be fine.

 

[RustyC]

Hydroboost is like hotsauce. Just put that shit on everything.
I'm a fan of the 1999 up superduty stuff, very common and fits well. Just be sure to get a master cylinder without cruise control or you will have to find a plug to fill the sensor port.

 

[chaplinfj60]

so this is not meant to hyjack but i am also thinking of switching to hydro boost because i am going to a auto,, with that being said the yukon donor vehicle has hydro boost on it. should i rob all that and use it? 2005 yukon 1500

 

[crazybluerider]

Since we are on the subject. I've been looking really hard at putting hydroboost on my buggy. The manual brakes are not cutting it at all. They'll lock the tires on flat gravel roads but on the steep stuff I'm having to pump and absolutely stand on them to hold the tires. I've notice it gets even worse when I have the reds on.

Has anyone built their own setup? I see that several of these kits claim to be ported to work with full hydro and I am wondering if these are mods that can be done at home. I'll probably need to be building some kind of remote setup like wide open's due to space constraints.

 

[gt1guy]

Since we are on the subject. I've been looking really hard at putting hydroboost on my buggy. The manual brakes are not cutting it at all. They'll lock the tires on flat gravel roads but on the steep stuff I'm having to pump and absolutely stand on them to hold the tires. I've notice it gets even worse when I have the reds on.

Has anyone built their own setup? I see that several of these kits claim to be ported to work with full hydro and I am wondering if these are mods that can be done at home. I'll probably need to be building some kind of remote setup like wide opens due to space constraints.

When I was ordering my full hydro parts from Howe, I mentioned I had a ported hydroboost from Vanco. The responce was "there's not much they can do as far as porting goes". I got the feeling he didn't care much about ported or not. I just left it at that and made my order.

I'd like to know what this porting actually entails.

 

[RustyC]

Porting the hydro boost was a popular subject a couple of years ago. There are inserts in the fittings the can be removed or enlarge to help increase flow. Looking at the spool the stem would need to be reduced to be less restrictive.

That being said I've build full 2 hydro + hydroboost rigs with stock p pumps, stock superduty hydroboost 7.3cc steering valve and 2.5" steering cylinder.
I have no issues with steering or brakes on either one as a trail rig. If you are racing or have a larger output pump,valve,cylinder your steering response feel a little lazy at low engine rpm.

 

[Bebop]

so this is not meant to hyjack but i am also thinking of switching to hydro boost because i am going to a auto,, with that being said the yukon donor vehicle has hydro boost on it. should i rob all that and use it? 2005 yukon 1500

Absolutely !

That being said I've build full 2 hydro + hydroboost rigs with stock p pumps, stock superduty hydroboost 7.3cc steering valve and 2.5" steering cylinder.
I have no issues with steering or brakes on either one as a trail rig.

Same

If you are racing or have a larger output pump,valve,cylinder your steering response feel a little lazy at low engine rpm.

And a lot more heat too

 

[Tiha]

Porting the hydro boost was a popular subject a couple of years ago. There are inserts in the fittings the can be removed or enlarge to help increase flow. Looking at the spool the stem would need to be reduced to be less restrictive.

This is correct, I looked into porting a bunch when I had steering issues after HB conversion.

You can drill out the ports on your Hb unit and run the largest, least restrictive fittings and hoses possible will help, but the center of the spool needs to be machined down some to really get flow gains.

Now, having said that. If you are not running a hydro steering of any kind, then there is no gain from porting.

Porting increases flow for the ram, that is all. It does nothing to improve breaking or regular power steering box.

Higher PSI PS pump will ease steering and brake effort.

In edit, Every HB system should have a larger than factory PS cooler.

 

[RustyC]

Every HB system should have a larger than factory PS cooler.

Fully agree. We could argue over what is better stacked plate vs tube and fin.
I chose tube and fin in an effort to reduce restrictions in the return circuit. No testing to justify decision though.

 

[Tiha]

We could argue over what is better stacked plate vs tube and fin.
I chose tube and fin in an effort to reduce restrictions in the return circuit. No testing to justify decision though.

Oh so you want to argue.

Don't care which one you use but a quick test will tell you if yours is big enough.

Inlet => burn hand
Outlet => no burn hand

and you are good to go.

 

[Sterlingfire]

This is correct, I looked into porting a bunch when I had steering issues after HB conversion.

You can drill out the ports on your Hb unit and run the largest, least restrictive fittings and hoses possible will help, but the center of the spool needs to be machined down some to really get flow gains.

Now, having said that. If you are not running a hydro steering of any kind, then there is no gain from porting.

Porting increases flow for the ram, that is all. It does nothing to improve breaking or regular power steering box.

Higher PSI PS pump will ease steering and brake effort.

In edit, Every HB system should have a larger than factory PS cooler.

So how is your hosing routed?
I'm about to build the same setup and was wondering how i should run the hoses. It is likely i won't have a ported hb, so keeping that in mind is it the same routing with that not done?

 

[Tiha]

So how is your hosing routed?
I'm about to build the same setup and was wondering how i should run the hoses. It is likely i won't have a ported hb, so keeping that in mind is it the same routing with that not done?

PS pump to hydroboost.

Hydroboost to Steering box.

Also Hydroboost to reservoir

Steering box to cooler.

Cooler to reservior.

Remote reservoir so back to PS pump.

Same routing no matter what, ported or not.

Some guys find reservoirs with 2 return fittings, I did not, I have a 3/8" brass Tee about 3 inches from my reservoir. No negative effects I am aware of.

I didn't take a pic, but I got a PS cooler from like a jeep GC or trailblazer, they are long and thing, fit perfectly between my front spring shackles.

 

[Sterlingfire]

PS pump to hydroboost.

Hydroboost to Steering box.

Also Hydroboost to reservoir

Steering box to cooler.

Cooler to reservior.

Remote reservoir so back to PS pump.

Same routing no matter what, ported or not.

Some guys find reservoirs with 2 return fittings, I did not, I have a 3/8" brass Tee about 3 inches from my reservoir. No negative effects I am aware of.

I didn't take a pic, but I got a PS cooler from like a jeep GC or trailblazer, they are long and thing, fit perfectly between my front spring shackles.

Perfect.
I'm going to go with radial dynamics cbx pump and 3.5" res... only 1 set of inlets so I'll be teeing into the line as well.
Thank you

 

[u2slow]

The vacuum MC may fit the hydroboost. I have mixed and matched before with no issues.

I'm not saying they all fit/work together though.

 

[chaplinfj60]

So how is your hosing routed?
I'm about to build the same setup and was wondering how i should run the hoses. It is likely i won't have a ported hb, so keeping that in mind is it the same routing with that not done?

 

[chaplinfj60]

Perfect.
I'm going to go with radial dynamics cbx pump and 3.5" res... only 1 set of inlets so I'll be teeing into the line as well.
Thank you

i have seen the ill effects of the tee, but that was right next to the hydro boost. maybe next to res it is all good.

 

[u2slow]

i have seen the ill effects of the tee, but that was right next to the hydro boost. maybe next to res it is all good.

I have tee'd the return near the pump before. No issues.

 

[chaplinfj60]

all i know is one buddies rig would not work worth a dam and he had a tee right at the hydro boost. so i think the further away it must not become much of an issue.

 

[Tiha]

all i know is one buddies rig would not work worth a dam and he had a tee right at the hydro boost. so i think the further away it must not become much of an issue.

I had read about people having issues and it makes sense that you would have a bottleneck there.
Guys even went so far to argue about which return line should be passing straight through the Tee vs coming in at a the 90.

That is why I actually tried to get it as close to the reservoir as I could, hopefully to reduce line restriction. I had intended on adding another return port to the reservoir but so far don't feel I need it.

I may still have too much. I am not sure I would know.

 

[chaplinfj60]

if it is working why mess with it

 

[K5-Einari]

The line return from steering box(and cooler) to reservoir should go straight through the T-fitting because it flows constantly. The return line from hydro boost sees only little oil when you release the brake pedal after pressing it. I tested it with clear hose. And I made special Y shaped fitting that has one straight line through and other with maybe 60degrees angle and the constant flow going straight through should be even making slight vacuum to the other pipe instead of creating any restricition.

 

[Bebop]

Guys even went so far to argue about which return line should be passing straight through the Tee vs coming in at a the 90.

It makes a hell of a difference.

Distance from resi doesn't make any difference.

Source : Me, who has installed quite a few of these systems and even did testing on the topic.

 

[Sterlingfire]

Would it be better if it was returned into the cooling return line with a Y fitting?

 

[Bebop]

Would it be better if it was returned into the cooling return line with a Y fitting?

Yes, but keep a T fitting.
That's how mine is plumbed BTW.

 

[K5-Einari]

This would be good shape for the fitting.