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Oddball Oil Weights... best place to get them?

[486] said:
high surface speed plain bearings need thinner oil than slow speed ones
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At those temps, they are both thin. The problem comes when shut off... and the bearing is at 1100*. Once the oil reaches 500*, it begins thermal breakdown. The 20w immediately drops down to a thin coat, while the 30w takes a little longer. Once the oil drops off the bearing, the thinner the coat, the faster it heats up. This means the thinner oil will be hotter when it meets the turbo's temp versus the thicker oil. Not much, but enough.

This is why heavy diesels with large turbos used 40w for decades until synthetic technology caught up to allow 30w.
 
DRTDEVL said:
Hmm... and how many of the earlier ones on 5w20 had turbo and carbon buildup problems.

Oops.:flipoff2:
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idk, you're the oil expert....you tell me? :flipoff2:


i'll retort with "its a user maintenance problem", which we all know is the case. why its the case is the only debate. you and i were raised to change our oil every 3k or face dyer consequences. whether those consequences were realized or not is irrelevant. our dads taught us. I think the real issue is auto mfg putting "oil life" monitors in vehicles. "but but but but ford says i can go 9,436 miles between oil changes it must be so." :homer:


I'll see my way out of your oil thread and quit fucking it up. :laughing:
 
Meh, I change at 5k, not 3, but that's mainly due to better oils and fuel injection. The Sprinters go 10k, but they also carry 9.5 qts for a 2.7 L engine and are designed for it.

Every time I change the truck's oil, it says there is about 57% life remaining, but I don't buy that... I mainly use it to tow and haul.

The Prius oil monitor comes on as "needs oil maintenance soon" at 4500 miles and "oil maintenance required" at exactly 5k. Its the only car I've seen with a reasonable oil monitor, being mileage-based instead of rev-based. I have never seen the Volvo's come on (other than when I bought it, changed the oil without resetting it, and saw it several months later), nor have I seen the Passat's, but the wife drives so little I change those every 1-2 years and only see 2-3k on the odometer between changes. :laughing:
 
did you know if you don't have winter oil you can mix normal oil with kerosene to get the correct viscosity?
says so on the kohler on grandpa's troy-bilt
they wouldn't lie to us
 
xr-nut said:
idk, you're the oil expert....you tell me? :flipoff2:


i'll retort with "its a user maintenance problem", which we all know is the case. why its the case is the only debate. you and i were raised to change our oil every 3k or face dyer consequences. whether those consequences were realized or not is irrelevant. our dads taught us. I think the real issue is auto mfg putting "oil life" monitors in vehicles. "but but but but ford says i can go 9,436 miles between oil changes it must be so." :homer:


I'll see my way out of your oil thread and quit fucking it up. :laughing:
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I think that has more to do with oil quality.

Mobil 1, Pennzoil platinum, etc. is much more likely to not cause problems with extended oil changes. Conventional/blends break down quicker.

I figure oil is cheap. My older stuff gets Mobil 1 changed every 5k. My newer stuff gets the same, but I change it whenever it says 20% on the dash. No oil related failures yet, but I've only got 3 with over 250k, 1 of which is over 300k.
 
DRTDEVL said:
Meh, I change at 5k, not 3, but that's mainly due to better oils and fuel injection. The Sprinters go 10k, but they also carry 9.5 qts for a 2.7 L engine and are designed for it.

Every time I change the truck's oil, it says there is about 57% life remaining, but I don't buy that... I mainly use it to tow and haul.

The Prius oil monitor comes on as "needs oil maintenance soon" at 4500 miles and "oil maintenance required" at exactly 5k. Its the only car I've seen with a reasonable oil monitor, being mileage-based instead of rev-based. I have never seen the Volvo's come on (other than when I bought it, changed the oil without resetting it, and saw it several months later), nor have I seen the Passat's, but the wife drives so little I change those every 1-2 years and only see 2-3k on the odometer between changes. :laughing:
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The legit oil life monitors calculate oil life off fuel usage, engine run time, sometimes engine load as well and estimate on the cautious side.

They're far more accurate than a random mileage or engine hours number. Though of those, engine run time makes most sense for most vehicles.
 
DRTDEVL said:
Less than $18/gallon or $4.50/qt.
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At those prices either it's likely shit oil, you've stumbled on a random clearance sale or you're getting a great price for buying bulk.
 
AKnate said:
At those prices either it's likely shit oil, you've stumbled on a random clearance sale or you're getting a great price for buying bulk.
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This ain't Alaska.

This is currently $5.59/qt, but a couple years ago I was paying $4.59/qt. That is what I am trying to get back toward, if possible. A quality full-synthetic oil for a reasonable price for every grade I need.

This one is not what I would call "reasonable," at $10/qt:
No, they don't even carry this grade in the 5-qt jug, either.
 
I think nearly everything but the VW will be better off on 5w30. Usually Castrol is cheapest at Home Depot.

Seriously look into it. I’ve transitioned all of mine into 5w30 and they all run smoother quieter and the oil comes out less watery. Your timing chains and cam phasers will be much happier.

99% of oems are running the thinnest oil that will work to squeak MPG for cafe standards.
 
DRTDEVL said:
Who measures oil by the oz?:lmao:
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Solventless Oils are more expensive:laughing:

WallMart is our best friend for oil. Otherwise and industrial oil distributor is your friend. I used to save $1100 buy purchasing 4 drums of Mobil Pegasus at a time before Covid.
 
Kyle said:
I think nearly everything but the VW will be better off on 5w30. Usually Castrol is cheapest at Home Depot.

Seriously look into it. I’ve transitioned all of mine into 5w30 and they all run smoother quieter and the oil comes out less watery. Your timing chains and cam phasers will be much happier.

99% of oems are running the thinnest oil that will work to squeak MPG for cafe standards.
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The Prius would not be better on thicker oil, especially in this climate (lots of start/stop when moving through the wind at -20, the engine struggles to make enough heat to keep the cabin warm).

The Sprinters won't start in winter when 5w- or 15w- are in the pan, they need that 0W-40 when its below zero. 5w gets so thick, the starter can't spin fast enough to generate 2400+ psi in the rail to light off. I actually tried 3 identical units with different oils one winter. 15w40 wouldn't turn over at all below 5 unless plugged in, 5w40 was slow to turn over down to -5, but then wouldn't fire off, and the 0w40 could start all the way down to -20.

As for the 5.0... I'm split on the whole cam phaser issue that will eventually come. That has me weary of departing from the mfg. spec.

Castrol is $2more than Mobil1 at Walmart up here... plus I'd have to drive 90 minutes each way to the nearest one that carries it.
 
You do know that windchill has zero effect on your vehicle.

No matter how fast you drive you cannot get the temperature lower than the ambient temperature.

If your vehicle does not turn over, you have a couple of issues one you have a weak battery, you have a battery that does not have the cold cranking apps required, and your connections are dirty.

Not starting with 5w or a 10w you have got to be kidding me?

And your fuel pump could give a rats ass what the temperature is.
 
Hydromaster said:
You do know that windchill has zero effect on your vehicle.

No matter how fast you drive you cannot get the temperature lower than the ambient temperature.

If your vehicle does not turn over, you have a couple of issues one you have a weak battery, you have a battery that does not have the cold cranking apps required, and your connections are dirty.

Not starting with 5w or a 10w you have got to be kidding me?

And your fuel pump could give a rats ass what the temperature is.
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A Mercedes OM647 must exceed 200 rpm when cranking to generate enough pressure in the rail for the computer to activate the injectors. The fuel pump doesn't care, but the ECM sure does. No 2400+ psi? No start.

"Windchill" was not mentioned, but a radiator that has 60 mph wind blowing through it will cool down faster than one without air flow. That vehicle is a hybrid, so the engine stops generating heat once shut off, which happens when the ECM temp sensor exceeds 165*. Too bad that water isn't flowing through the rest of the system at that time to warm anything up... and that oil hasn't warmed up yet, either.
 
DRTDEVL said:
A Mercedes OM647 must exceed 200 rpm when cranking to generate enough pressure in the rail for the computer to activate the injectors. The fuel pump doesn't care, but the ECM sure does. No 2400+ psi? No start.

"Windchill" was not mentioned, but a radiator that has 60 mph wind blowing through it will cool down faster than one without air flow. That vehicle is a hybrid, so the engine stops generating heat once shut off, which happens when the ECM temp sensor exceeds 165*. Too bad that water isn't flowing through the rest of the system at that time to warm anything up... and that oil hasn't warmed up yet, either. :mad3:
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But you did mention windchill without using the word windchill
“when moving through the wind at -20, the engine struggles to make enough heat to keep the cabin warm).”

If it’s -20 outside and you drive at 100mph the air passing through the radiator will still be at -20.
Wind will help dissipate the heat quicker but it cannot drop the temp any lower than the ambient temperature.

And again your fuel pump doesn’t care about the temperature neather does your ECM or anything else.
As you stated and needs pressure and it doesn’t generate it very fast when the engine is turning over slowly.

If your engine is turning over that slow, it is because the starting system is not up to the task.

Ps
I see you’re in Minnesota and you should know about putting a piece of cardboard in front of your radiator when it’s that cold.
 
Hydromaster said:
But you did mention windchill without using the word windchill
“when moving through the wind at -20, the engine struggles to make enough heat to keep the cabin warm).”

If it’s -20 outside and you drive at 100mph the air passing through the radiator will still be at -20.
Wind will help dissipate the heat quicker but it cannot drop the temp any lower than the ambient temperature.
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That's the point... The engine STOPS RUNNING and CANNOT MAINTAIN HEAT when PASSING THROUGH WIND due to dissipation. I never said it would drop below ambient, nor did I suggest such.
Hydromaster said:
And again your fuel pump doesn’t care about the temperature neather does your ECM or anything else.
As you stated and needs pressure and it doesn’t generate it very fast when the engine is turning over slowly.

If your engine is turning over that slow, it is because the starting system is not up to the task.

Ps
I see you’re in Minnesota and you should know about putting a piece of cardboard in front of your radiator when it’s that cold.
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If the engine is turning over that slow, perhaps it is due to an undersized starter and a factory requirement for 15w40 only in temperatures above 15, 5w40 only above -20, and 0W40 for anything colder due to the starting system and RPM requirements.
 
Lol
Are you talking about synthetic oils?


You would think you were talking about conventional oils and their cold pour points .


And it doesn’t really matter what oil you’re using because it has little effect on the heat generated by your engine and what is being dissipated by your radiator.
The thermostat won’t be cycling coolant to the radiator unless you’re coolant is at 195°,right
And that coolant is constantly flowing through the heater core.

It’s not my fault that sprinter doesn’t think to much of people who live in northern climates where it gets cold, and they design their vehicle cheaply.

It’s been common for folks that live in cold climates to install larger batteries, and to put larger wires into their vehicles for starting and charging.
 
Hydromaster said:
Lol
Are you talking about synthetic oils?


You would think you were talking about conventional oils and their cold pour points .


And it doesn’t really matter what oil you’re using because it has little effect on the heat generated by your engine and what is being dissipated by your radiator.
The thermostat won’t be cycling coolant to the radiator unless you’re coolant is at 195°,right
And that coolant is constantly flowing through the heater core.

It’s not my fault that sprinter doesn’t think to much of people who live in northern climates where it gets cold, and they design their vehicle cheaply.

It’s been common for folks that live in cold climates to install larger batteries, and to put larger wires into their vehicles for starting and charging.
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You are concentrating on the wrong parts. The oil doesn't affect the heat generated, but it is affected by the lack of heat generation. Think of that ride as an electric car with a generator that only starts/runs under a higher load demand or low voltage demand (that's how the Toyota Hybrid system works). When the generator isn't running, there is no heat added to the coolant, therefore it will go cold unless the engine starts.

Can't physically put a bigger battery in a Sprinter, either. It already comes with an H8/Group 49. Larger cables? difficult at best with the power distribution block as part of the positive battery terminal:
1730483981330.png


BTW: All replacement terminals have been discontinued for these vans as of 2017.
 
DRTDEVL said:
This ain't Alaska.

This is currently $5.59/qt, but a couple years ago I was paying $4.59/qt. That is what I am trying to get back toward, if possible. A quality full-synthetic oil for a reasonable price for every grade I need.

This one is not what I would call "reasonable," at $10/qt:
No, they don't even carry this grade in the 5-qt jug, either.
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I used to run that in my Yukon every winter in ND. It was available in 5qt jugs at Walmart for $22 back then.

It's all the way to to $28 now :flipoff2:
 
DRTDEVL said:
You are concentrating on the wrong parts. The oil doesn't affect the heat generated, but it is affected by the lack of heat generation. Think of that ride as an electric car with a generator that only starts/runs under a higher load demand or low voltage demand (that's how the Toyota Hybrid system works). When the generator isn't running, there is no heat added to the coolant, therefore it will go cold unless the engine starts.

Can't physically put a bigger battery in a Sprinter, either. It already comes with an H8/Group 49. Larger cables? difficult at best with the power distribution block as part of the positive battery terminal:
1730483981330.png


BTW: All replacement terminals have been discontinued for these vans as of 2017.
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And you don’t comprehend replacing things.
what makes you think you need to use that distribution center when you’re installing a larger power lead or ground.


And clean up those terminals and clean the grounds :flipoff2:


Are we talking about a sprinter van or some electric hybrid?:homer:

I think all Rav4s since the 4.3 have had an electric heaters, they furnish cabin and the '16 ltd HV did, as did the '15 Prius and '18 Prius Prime.

Ps edit
A900cca batt, isn’t bad have you considered having it load tested
 
I’ll never understand running the cheapest shit you can find… without an engine, your ass ain’t getting to work in most cases. OP owns a Volvo so it sort of makes sense
 
Hydromaster said:
And you don’t comprehend replacing things.
what makes you think you need to use that distribution center when you’re installing a larger power lead or ground.


And clean up those terminals and clean the grounds :flipoff2:


Are we talking about a sprinter van or some electric hybrid?:homer:

I think all Rav4s since the 4.3 have had an electric heaters, they furnish cabin and the '16 ltd HV did, as did the '15 Prius and '18 Prius Prime.

Ps edit
A900cca batt, isn’t bad have you considered having it load tested
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The PDC contains all the MIDI fuses for the different major components and modules... L to R: Alternator (200a), Opt. Equipment / upfitter block (70a), K26 fuse box / main body block under driver's seat (125a), rear A/C (80a), Glow Plug Module (125a), and Fuse Block A mounted on the underside of steering column (100a).

Factory wiring to the starter and ground is undersized, at 4awg. I have added additional grounds and have considered adding a separate battery cable in parallel to the factory cable to aid in power transmission in the cold.

We're talking about 2 different vehicles, some 2005 Sprinter 2500/3500s in my fleet, and a 2011 Prius.

The 900 cca battery just can't cut the mustard when its 20 below. Its well-known in the Sprinter world that a block heater and 0w oil is required for starting in the arctic temps. Sometimes the vans aren't close enough to power for a block heater, though, hence the conundrum.
 
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