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Oddball Oil Weights... best place to get them?

Who measures oil by the oz?:lmao:
I have to do the math even for quarts. We use gallons.

Granted some of the shops go through 10-15k gallons a year.
This is no shit. ^^

Dad opened an account with the Irish and we get ~50% off just about everything. :smokin:
Alot of the lubes aren't discounted much. Bought a case if ATF a few weeks ago and was zero discount.
 
I get all those from O'Reilly's.
And pay through the nose.
And Canadian Tire (wait for the sale price though). Usually it's Castrol or Mobil.
Bald Eagles, not Maple Leafs.
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Are you stupid or something?

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Now show me the 0W30, 0W40, and 5w40 in those images. I already conceded a couple were available in SuperTech.
A lot of people have switched their F-150 to 5w30 and the intardnet claims it helps with cam phaser life.
And my -30 cold starts would beg to differ. Winter = definitely 0w20.
0w20 and 5w20 are everywhere
I know, its all the other weights that are a problem finding.
Costco carries a couple of those weights Kirkland branding.
No membership. Sam's carries some 5w30 and 15w40 and stupid prices, so I quit hoping for sales there (plus I am drowning in those already).
 
It seems like almost everything I own calls for oddball weights. I don't want to vary from them in the winter, as I need things to start at 30 below.

All the regular stores charge a fortune for these, and most online retailers are elevated, at a minimum.

What's the best/cheapest source for:

0w20 Synthetic (Prius)
5w20 Synthetic (F150)
0w30 Synthetic (XC90)
0w40 Synthetic (Sprinter/Passat)

I have GALLONS of regular grades (10w30, 10w40, etc.) that I buy when I see it on the clearance racks at O'Reilly, and I have quite a bit of 5w40 T6 that I picked up when it as on sale, but the main vehicles I drive all call for these odd weights for which I pay through the nose.

Probably could consolidate a few of those. The 0w30 and 0w40 diesel?

One shop at work uses 5w40 Euro for their F150-F350 gassers. Probably have 400-500 trucks in the fleet.
 
In todays car market, those are not oddball oil weights...as stated above Walmart carries at least 3 of the 4,
0w40 probably has to be ordered
5 40 is easily available and probably close enough.

I put that shit in everything.
 
0w40 t6 is available at advance auto
I'd just use that in everything, honestly

little thicker when hot isn't going to hurt anything, and 0w when cold ain't gonna hurt the effinfitty
 
visc.jpg


note the two scales on the sides for viscosity hot and cold
and keep in mind engines run at like 240F oil temperature nowadays
0w when cold is still thicker than 50 when hot
 
visc.jpg


note the two scales on the sides for viscosity hot and cold
and keep in mind engines run at like 240F oil temperature nowadays
0w when cold is still thicker than 50 when hot
Depends what you consider cold. That chart only shows 40 and 100*... roughly 100 and 210f.
 
Depends what you consider cold.
aren't you in the part of alaska that doesn't get all that cold?
the coastal middle-southern areas don't never get as cold as it does here, something about the ocean or whatever
 
Yeah I'd consolidate that down for sure. 0w-30 for everything but probably the sprinter. You'll never know the difference.
 
I run whatever I have around. Its a mix of 0w-20, 0w-30 and some 5w-30. I figure it works out to 3w-25 or so.
 
OP has shit taste in vehicles, those aren't oddball weights.

0w is a gimmick for emissions/epa/mpg/gov, step it up to 5w and have some sense.

Install a block heater.
 
aren't you in the part of alaska that doesn't get all that cold?
the coastal middle-southern areas don't never get as cold as it does here, something about the ocean or whatever

Thermal capacity of water
 
OP has shit taste in vehicles, those aren't oddball weights.

0w is a gimmick for emissions/epa/mpg/gov, step it up to 5w and have some sense.

Install a block heater.

Spoken like a true Texan.

We don't have parking lots full of power to plug stuff in everywhere we go.

And I can see the difference on a cold start between 0w-30 and 0w-40. The 40 takes long enough to pump that you start to sweat when the oil pressure is still 0 after 5+ seconds. The 30 is about 2 seconds.

Reminds me, I need to cardboard off my trans cooler. It was only 110* after 2 hours of driving last weekend. :laughing:
 
aren't you in the part of alaska that doesn't get all that cold?
the coastal middle-southern areas don't never get as cold as it does here, something about the ocean or whatever
The chart is for 100* and 212*

0 wt at 100* is a bit thinner than 50 wt at 212*.
At -50* it's barely flowing and 50 wt would need a spoon.
 
OP has shit taste in vehicles, those aren't oddball weights.

0w is a gimmick for emissions/epa/mpg/gov, step it up to 5w and have some sense.

Install a block heater.
Guy I worked with used 0w40 in woods equipment for years. Dunno if it helped much over 5w40. 5w40 is certainly more common.
 
Yeah I'd consolidate that down for sure. 0w-30 for everything but probably the sprinter. You'll never know the difference.
Sure, pick the hardest and just expensive grade to find in stock anywhere
OP has shit taste in vehicles, those aren't oddball weights.

0w is a gimmick for emissions/epa/mpg/gov, step it up to 5w and have some sense.

Install a block heater.
The difference in 0w and 5w could be the difference between the engine starting and calling for a tow to a heated garage.
 
OP has shit taste in vehicles, those aren't oddball weights.

0w is a gimmick for emissions/epa/mpg/gov, step it up to 5w and have some sense.
0w is for cold starting
20 is for fuel economy

thus why the 0w40 is good for all the shit, flows good when cold and still has some ass to it when hot (but even cars specced for 0w20 will be okay with it because of how 0w20 when colder is still thicker than 0w40 when hot)
 
The chart is for 100* and 212*

0 wt at 100* is a bit thinner than 50 wt at 212*.
At -50* it's barely flowing and 50 wt would need a spoon.
40 and 100c on the metric side (left) and 100 to 212f in moonlanding units (right)

which is why the winter rating is the one that's important for cold operation
 
Walmart or Fleet Farm would have all of those in my area in one flavor or another. Walmart carries Motorcraft in the 20wt varieties and Fleet Farm has several brands but I know they have a Mobil 1 and an Amsoil in 0w-40 on the shelf
 
SAE 20 at 190°F is about the same kinematic viscosity as an SAE 30 at 220°F, which is about the same viscosity as an SAE 40 at 240°F. This approximation works well in the 190°F to 260°F temperature range. One might be surprised at the slight amount of difference between straight viscosity vs. multiviscosity oils with the same back number (for example, SAE 30, SAE 5W-30, and SAE 10W-30).

If an SAE 50 oil at 260°F is as thin as an SAE 20 oil at 190°F, imagine how thin the oil film becomes when you are using an SAE 5W-20 and your engine overheats. When an engine overheats, the oil film becomes dangerously thin and can rupture.

As wear increases, the efficiency of an engine declines. Valve train wear slightly changes valve timing and movement. Ring and liner wear affect compression. The wear hurts fuel efficiency and power output by an imperceptible amount at first, but then the difference in fuel economy between an SAE 10W-30 and SAE 5W-20 is hardly noticeable. Efficiency continues to decline as wear progresses. Perhaps optimizing wear protection is the way to reduce fuel consumption over the life of the engine.


I’m using a synthetic 15w-40 in my 68 charger’s 440.

Now let’s discuss in the cold pouring point of synthetic vs conventional in the same oil weight.
 
awaits for amsoil dealer to chime in

Lol

Oil/fluids are one of thing I'd actively scouted for good deal anywhere I go locally to be aware of price and availability.

However rockauto do sell fluids and prices are decent but the shipping fee may offset the cost when you could buy locally but give it a try to see what it adds up shipped to your house

Though I do at times, blend/mix my oil in my moto and 8.1
 
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