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Nv4500 tech

An M22 would be nice (as for faster shifting) but unsure if it would live long with the LM7 horsies and in short supply last one I had was behind a Big block Chevy in a 1967 Camaro.


And beyond that the 4500 is meant for a truck not a sports car.
Did they ever come with the round-six tcase mount and 32 spline? Im sure if a rock crusher can handle a big block, then a little turbo 5.3 is fine. But i had my mind set on a five speed. In my ignorance, I thought the 32 spline was better than the 29er (chevy vs dodge). But nope, 29 spline is a bigger output. All good since i went with an eco box and the np241c is pretty common around my neck of the woods.
 
I’m also running the gm 32 spline output. I didn’t want to run the dodge coupler setup. One thing I found about the nv4500 that helps tremendously with longevity is making sure the output runs concentric with the tail housing. Turns out some of the tolerances can get a bit wide during manufacturing. It can lead to bearing wear, hard shifting, popping out of gear, and spline wear.
 
No...

32 spline yes but only 2wd out the back.

Also very rare these days.

But, AA makes many adapters, one from the M20,21,22 is the Dana 18 So its possible that an adapter to a late Np205 was done.


Did they ever come with the round-six tcase mount and 32 spline? Im sure if a rock crusher can handle a big block, then a little turbo 5.3 is fine. But i had my mind set on a five speed. In my ignorance, I thought the 32 spline was better than the 29er (chevy vs dodge). But nope, 29 spline is a bigger output. All good since i went with an eco box and the np241c is pretty common around my neck of the woods.
 
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True my first AA adapter project was adapting a muncie to a Dana 18 t case back in the early 1980's.

But they never came from the factory with a 6 bolt round output.
 
I’m also running the gm 32 spline output. I didn’t want to run the dodge coupler setup. One thing I found about the nv4500 that helps tremendously with longevity is making sure the output runs concentric with the tail housing. Turns out some of the tolerances can get a bit wide during manufacturing. It can lead to bearing wear, hard shifting, popping out of gear, and spline wear.
I've heard of that issue with after market iron tail housings not the factory Ali piece. They just crack. I made a bunch of bracing and a plate to run two tcase mounts to mitigate that. there was no signs of misalignment when I stripped it down.
No shit. The circ 6 pattern only existed on fords at the time they were made, gm used the fig 8 and most were still divoced.
I am truely a noob to domestic. I'm sure there is an adapter for that. Divorced isn't so bad when divorced 205s are available. But low range would be hurting.
 

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I did have a customer that spent a retarded amount of cash building a cj one time.

Had me narrow a d60/drw d70 down to 57" then built a wicked 383 and backed with a muncie, not a 4x4 setup though, just a 2wd muncie. :shaking:.

I picked up a m20 or 21 that had been setup with the adapter and 6spl hoping i could get him to put a tcase in it at least. No dice.

At least the boat anchor d60 with cut shafts would help keep the front tires on the ground.
 
I've heard of that issue with after market iron tail housings not the factory Ali piece. They just crack. I made a bunch of bracing and a plate to run two tcase mounts to mitigate that. there was no signs of misalignment when I stripped it down.

I’ve personally come across 3 aluminum 4wd tailhousings that ranged from .025 to .070 runout.
 
I did have a customer that spent a retarded amount of cash building a cj one time.

Had me narrow a d60/drw d70 down to 57" then built a wicked 383 and backed with a muncie, not a 4x4 setup though, just a 2wd muncie. :shaking:.

I picked up a m20 or 21 that had been setup with the adapter and 6spl hoping i could get him to put a tcase in it at least. No dice.

At least the boat anchor d60 with cut shafts would help keep the front tires on the ground.

That guy must have been hogging all the Chromosomes :mr-t: I'm sure he told everyone about how his "rig" could hop a coke can:jester:
 
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He was a pretty cool older guy with a pretty good head on his shoulders.
Just built it as a show roller and it broke my fucking heart to go 95% of the way.
 
"I’ve personally come across 3 aluminum 4wd tailhousings that ranged from .025 to .070 runout"

How did you measure that? I'm thinking, I could slip a spare input shaft onto the output so i have something to stick my crappy dial indicator on. But id need to shim it up tight first.
 
He was a pretty cool older guy with a pretty good head on his shoulders.
Just built it as a show roller and it broke my fucking heart to go 95% of the way.

Ah yes, boomer logic. You can't reason with that. Fuck im cynical.
 
"I’ve personally come across 3 aluminum 4wd tailhousings that ranged from .025 to .070 runout"

How did you measure that? I'm thinking, I could slip a spare input shaft onto the output so i have something to stick my crappy dial indicator on. But id need to shim it up tight first.
I have 2 iron tails that can be checked and atleast 1 stock gm alum. I also have a old aftermarket alum dodge one but its a odd setup and and i dont have a way to check it.

The irons were bought 5-6 years apart so they are completely different batchs
 
I have 2 iron tails that can be checked and atleast 1 stock gm alum. I also have a old aftermarket alum dodge one but its a odd setup and and i dont have a way to check it.

The irons were bought 5-6 years apart so they are completely different batchs

What was your method for accurately checking run-out?
 
Just like you said. Put a dial on the output shaft and spin. But i would prob stand it ass up cause gravity

Cool I can manage that. I'm lead to think bearing end play would cause a lot more erroneous numbers with all that extra deflection built in. Then again, it could also be more forgiving to misalignment. But your tcase input bearing would have to pick up the slack. I keep coming back to the best end play being near zero. Especially when you can expect it to loosen up over time.
 
How did you measure that? I'm thinking, I could slip a spare input shaft onto the output so i have something to stick my crappy dial indicator on. But id need to shim it up tight first.
Custom smooth jaw vise grip that has a post welded to it to hold the indicator. Trans is oriented vertically on my stand. I put the trans in 4th and spin via the input shaft.
 
Custom smooth jaw vise grip that has a post welded to it to hold the indicator. Trans is oriented vertically on my stand. I put the trans in 4th and spin via the input shaft.

Ofcourse, why didn't I think of that? So, just because the tail housing is doweled doesn't mean it's true. I can't pretend it's all good now.
 
Are we talking about the two circles not being located on the same line or the flanges not being in the same plane?

Because the latter is a fuckton easier to fix.
 
Are we talking about the two circles not being located on the same line or the flanges not being in the same plane?

Because the latter is a fuckton easier to fix.
Output shaft not being centered in the index of the transfer case adapter. It’s not terribly hard to fix.
 
Output shaft not being centered in the index of the transfer case adapter. It’s not terribly hard to fix.
It's harder than if the front and rear surfaces simply aren't in parallel planes. Which is mostly just a reflection of how easy it is to face something.
 
This seems like the best place to ask this question, beings its about nv4500.

Whats the difference between the top covers, and why do people swap them for a different year?
 
More useful, desired design.

Shift tower location and design.
 
Yes, mine does but, there isnt a external slave bellhousing made for it so im screwed in a way, but yes mine does have a cup holder and a beer can holder also, the german beer can size.


So its got a cup holder?
 
This seems like the best place to ask this question, beings its about nv4500.

Whats the difference between the top covers, and why do people swap them for a different year?
The later design have removable tower, and because of that a short throw shifter kit can be installed.

Early and late top covers work fine, otherwise.
 
Yes, mine does but, there isnt a external slave bellhousing made for it so im screwed in a way, but yes mine does have a cup holder and a beer can holder also, the german beer can size.

Lol. If you say 'beer can' in a British accent you actually say 'bacon' with a Jamaican accent.
 
The later design have removable tower, and because of that a short throw shifter kit can be installed.

Early and late top covers work fine, otherwise.

Thanks. I have the early gm version. Your saying I can put on a later gm version top and shifter and it'll still work? Does the early to late gm gear pitch change effect any of that?
 
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