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NOOB: 7.3 OBS Question

AKnate said:
Huh, never heard that one. I run Delo ELC in almost everything. Get it for about $50 a case from work.
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Its bad for injector cup glue and can eventually cause it to fail. After the early 99 engine its good to go with elc
 
Fucking yuppie binders:flipoff2:
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93 idit:smokin:
 
Does anyone make decent front floor mats for the OBS?
 
Levigarrett76 said:
I know the feeling.
Hust spent $2700 on my 2001….deer

And two weeks before a grand rebuilding front axle:barf:
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I’m m so far over budget on this thing that a deer might be a great solution. :laughing:

Tried selling it for a year and decided to just drive it. Ride is somewhere between a brick and a lowered civic. It’s obnoxious, loud, rough… But I dig it.
 
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Obs strokes are gold out here, but we don't have the rust issue...
 
Clb said:
Obs strokes are gold out here, but we don't have the rust issue...
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Pretty sure I paid in gold for something currently valued in silver. :homer: :flipoff2:
 
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Levigarrett76 said:
Its bad for injector cup glue and can eventually cause it to fail. After the early 99 engine its good to go with elc
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It keeps slowly losing coolant, wonder if that's the issue.

I need to put injectors in it, I guess cups wouldn't be that much more $$ or work.
 
Its entirely possible theyre cracked and you didnt know.

I had a head off of mine a couple years ago due to a stuck glow plug. Decided to do cups while I was there and found 2 were already cracked & weeping. Removing them several more cracked. Wouldn't surprise me at all if yours were cracked too.
 
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OK.... Installed the new RiffRaff Diesel water pump a couple days ago. Flushed the system with distilled water and a 20 mile drive. Refilled with correct fluid.


Took antifreeze and erls to the recycling place today. Truck drives good... for a brick... Cruises well at 65 mph. Starts to vibrate at 70 (wheels)... but otherwise running well.

No leaks.. No drips... parked it next to the 25 year newer 7.3 the other day... both white... but the contrast was stark. I hate that I like this thing.
 
Steve300xcw said:
Put a vinyl floor in that fucker and be done
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The SD has vinyl and I like it. But I’m not spending that much money on this. Besides… I just shampooed the carpet yesterday. :laughing:
 
rockota said:
The SD has vinyl and I like it. But I’m not spending that much money on this. Besides… I just shampooed the carpet yesterday. :laughing:
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Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

I'm going to give this 1 piece unit a shot. For $60, it's worth a shot. Not sure if it will be more or less of a hassle than the regular cheapo ones but at least it shouldn't move around much on it's own.
 
Provience said:

Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

I'm going to give this 1 piece unit a shot. For $60, it's worth a shot. Not sure if it will be more or less of a hassle than the regular cheapo ones but at least it shouldn't move around much on it's own.
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That actually looks like a good solution. I think it would have to be cut to get around the transfer case shifter, but otherwise should be solid
 
Levigarrett76 said:
Its bad for injector cup glue and can eventually cause it to fail. After the early 99 engine its good to go with elc
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I need to put injectors in it, haven't decided if I should do the cups too. They are pretty cheap it seems, just take time.
 
AKnate said:
I need to put injectors in it, haven't decided if I should do the cups too. They are pretty cheap it seems, just take time.
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Theyre not terrible to change, and it doesnt add that much more work if the injectors are already out . I bought the tool kit from Rosewood Diesel which works pretty good.

Drop a penny down into the cup before you remove it. The removal tool is more or less a pipe tap. The penny will block the hole and stop chips (from threading in the removal tool) from falling down into the cylinder. I had one head off when i did mine so easy to clean the cylinder bore. The other i used a turkey baster (with a piece of 3/16 brake tubing attached) to reach down the bore to suck up any coolant that made its way down into the combustion chamber.
 
Im not a fan of vinyl flooring. I used to think it was the way to go, until i bought my 96 bronco. Theres a million holes in it for seat & belt bolts, wires, etc, which all can let water in. When i removed the vinyl i found the whole floorpan was wet, and rotted in a lot of places. The jute was soaking wet. It hadnt rained in weeks prior to me removing the vinyl/jute (for an unrelated project, i had no idea it was wet, or rotted)

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Turns out once the water gets under there the vinyl cant breathe so it never dries out. When i finally get around to restoring my F250 im probably going to put a carpet kit in it with good floor mats, because at least then its possible to dry it out.
 
reptillikus said:
Theyre not terrible to change, and it doesnt add that much more work if the injectors are already out . I bought the tool kit from Rosewood Diesel which works pretty good.

Drop a penny down into the cup before you remove it. The removal tool is more or less a pipe tap. The penny will block the hole and stop chips (from threading in the removal tool) from falling down into the cylinder. I had one head off when i did mine so easy to clean the cylinder bore. The other i used a turkey baster (with a piece of 3/16 brake tubing attached) to reach down the bore to suck up any coolant that made its way down into the combustion chamber.
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A place called Rip Rap Diesels has a tool they rent, may do that.
 
rockota said:
Appreciate that! Thx
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alright, just for kicks you are going to get the full unboxing version :rasta:

discount box from amazon? sign me up! Already sacrificed quality for cheap chinese thing

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It's a pretty good sized box which makes me more hopeful than a round rolled tube would've

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Ah, just a box for a box. The factory chinese box is a pretty good bit smaller in every way

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If you are ever in a pinch for a tape cutter, grab the shims out from between the hood/hood support brackets. They work great!

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Nearly a nice tri-fold inside the factory box. Not sure what the plastic thing is, going to hang on to it in case it becomes handy in the future

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Whole thing is right at 1 broom stick wide with plenty of edge distance to trim as needed

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2 of the 3 patterns are carried through, in reverse, on the backside for high quality floor grip

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These floral pattern high strength garage shears made this corner cut with ease. Helps significantly to be as deep in the throat as possible

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minimum thickness is 2/16" across the whole thing. plenty to feel sturdy enough and not too stiff to flop and move around

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The metal marking pencil/crayon in silver works decently enough to mark it. The center section is smooth for easier drawing of shapes

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next post...
 
took some, but not too much, force to puncture with the high quality floral garage shears. Not something that will puncture from just dropping stuff or dropping then stepping on things

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Pulling it taught improved the ability to cut corners for following lines

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if you loosen the jam nut, the knob is significantly easier to remove :homer:

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once you flop it over the shifter and realize your conservative eyeball was overly conservative, the old well used razor blade goes through it without much issue. Didn't leave an impression in my fingers for very long

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and the width is pretty good as it is. Not as tight as a form fitted one and not as annoying as a poorly fitted high sided bucket one

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probably going to trim the edge for clearance for the high beam switch. Left the hanging tab along the top for the option of installing a stud or screw or knob thing to keep them located

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part of the reason I trimmed so small was so that I could put the mat below the skirt for the shifter. After looking at it for about 2.5 seconds, that's a dumb idea. Better was forward will be to trim the opening enough to go over the shifter skirt and into the bottom fold. Should keep the most debris from getting under the mat and still allow for reasonably easy removal .

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overall, I give it a rating of "significantly better than bed liner" and "worse than fitted vinyl"

for the price of ~$60 I am without regrets and happy with my purchase.




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