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Non HF Plasma for DIY CNC table?

CarterKraft said:
Thats how I found him, that diagram.:smokin:

I was looking at FB marketplace again today and I just can't see spending A $4xxx for a new 85XP or B $1200+ for a used 45 when that new 80amp Hynade is $600... or $700 with 4 year no question warranty.

I want a Hypertherm for sure but there is no way at this stage of my NOT FOR PROFIT adventure I can swing the new price.
Click to expand...

I didn't think my table was going to turn a profit. :Fo2 Sometimes I wish it never did! I am curious how this works for you. I may have to eat some crow!

Are you going to use a THCAD10?
 
CarterKraft said:
Yes and no, I don't want the High Frequency voltage around my table, all the reports I have ever read of problems with interference stemmed from using a HF start power source.
I only want a blow back start/pilot arc.
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In a past life I was the CAD/CAM/CNC monkey for a boutique fab shop.

We had a bespoke 5x12' table from the mid '90s with an old HD3070 and Burny 2.8 controller, I think the THC was Burny too. That HD3070 is high frequency start, and we kept an old HP Desktop with XP on it to run the MS DOS Burny Server, powered up 24/7 under a dust cover within 6' of the table. Never had any issues.

I haven't built my own, and while I can appreciate your concern, I'm not convinced high frequency is as big of a hurdle to overcome as you are making it out to be.
 
Talon2006 said:
I didn't think my table was going to turn a profit. :Fo2 Sometimes I wish it never did! I am curious how this works for you. I may have to eat some crow!

Are you going to use a THCAD10?
Click to expand...
I know the Hypertherm is superior in every way but the cost/benefit is not there right now.

Yes THCAD-10 for THC. I may end up going to ohmic sensing with THCAD-5 to simplify the Z assembly but for now just using a float switch.
 
Lee said:
In a past life I was the CAD/CAM/CNC monkey for a boutique fab shop.

We had a bespoke 5x12' table from the mid '90s with an old HD3070 and Burny 2.8 controller, I think the THC was Burny too. That HD3070 is high frequency start, and we kept an old HP Desktop with XP on it to run the MS DOS Burny Server, powered up 24/7 under a dust cover within 6' of the table. Never had any issues.

I haven't built my own, and while I can appreciate your concern, I'm not convinced high frequency is as big of a hurdle to overcome as you are making it out to be.
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Looking at the manual for that 3070 that doesn't appear to be similar to any consumer grade stuff, separate high frequency cabinet with special shielding cables direct to the torch.

Using a chicom HF cutter like I already have doesn't seem worth the hassle of integrating it when it doesn't have the power I want.
I want a 60a+ cutter...
 
I have a TIG welder that uses HF about two feet away from my office computer that I use daily

with that said I would still get a quality plasma, you will be happier in the big picture of things
 
CarterKraft said:
I know the Hypertherm is superior in every way but the cost/benefit is not there right now.

Yes THCAD-10 for THC. I may end up going to ohmic sensing with THCAD-5 to simplify the Z assembly but for now just using a float switch.
Click to expand...

I think you have a good point to use a china cutter. I may just be a little bitter with the experiences with other china equipment.


Are you going to run a water table? I know that can throw off omnic sensing. Right when I got out of plasma there was a group doing a ton of work on it though. The claimed they could tell they could see the voltage change as they put more pressure on the tip.



If you want a recommendation on a decent Z axis… I ran this one full on production and liked it. Do yourself a favor and try to get the bottom of it >8” from the water.

www.ebay.com

DIY CNC PLASMA Z Axis Linear Slide Kit 5" Travel FLOATING HEAD, US MADE | eBay

15mm Linear Rails and 4 Blocks. CNC Machined and Constructed in USA. Precision grade Cast Aluminum used.
www.ebay.com
 
SomeGuyFromOlympia said:
I have a TIG welder that uses HF about two feet away from my office computer that I use daily

with that said I would still get a quality plasma, you will be happier in the big picture of things
Click to expand...


It is not so much the Computer itself, as much as it is the connection between the stepper drivers and the stepper motor.
 
Talon2006 said:
I think you have a good point to use a china cutter. I may just be a little bitter with the experiences with other china equipment.


Are you going to run a water table? I know that can throw off omnic sensing. Right when I got out of plasma there was a group doing a ton of work on it though. The claimed they could tell they could see the voltage change as they put more pressure on the tip.



If you want a recommendation on a decent Z axis… I ran this one full on production and liked it. Do yourself a favor and try to get the bottom of it >8” from the water.

www.ebay.com

DIY CNC PLASMA Z Axis Linear Slide Kit 5" Travel FLOATING HEAD, US MADE | eBay

15mm Linear Rails and 4 Blocks. CNC Machined and Constructed in USA. Precision grade Cast Aluminum used.
www.ebay.com
Click to expand...
I am intending to have a water table.
The z clearance was sort of a cocktail napkin guess and it's not the best I'm sure but also not really permanent yet, the gantry tube is only tacked so I can raise the gantry if needed.
This included z axis with the trucks only has 3" of travel but I already 3d printed a 6" travel linear rail unit.

I followed that ohmic testing on the LCNC forum and if I get to the point of needing the speed for probing/piercing I'll get another thcad and implement that, my goal really is to get a budget table up and running and improve stuff in order of importance instead of over doing shit and never finishing it...
 
CarterKraft said:
I am intending to have a water table.
The z clearance was sort of a cocktail napkin guess and it's not the best I'm sure but also not really permanent yet, the gantry tube is only tacked so I can raise the gantry if needed.
This included z axis with the trucks only has 3" of travel but I already 3d printed a 6" travel linear rail unit.

I followed that ohmic testing on the LCNC forum and if I get to the point of needing the speed for probing/piercing I'll get another thcad and implement that, my goal really is to get a budget table up and running and improve stuff in order of importance instead of over doing shit and never finishing it...
Click to expand...

Haha, I totally get that! I’m kind of the extreme of your build and actually built two tables. I tried to overbuild the second one but still had a few issues I had to adjust. Most of the stuff I might be stressing on probably won’t make a difference for how you are going to use your table.
 
Talon2006 said:
Haha, I totally get that! I’m kind of the extreme of your build and actually built two tables. I tried to overbuild the second one but still had a few issues I had to adjust. Most of the stuff I might be stressing on probably won’t make a difference for how you are going to use your table.
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I hear all the suggestions though and in my head (on any project really) I I design a space shuttle...
Maxh3 would have been so much easier, LCNC cost me a year or more in delays, same for Mesacard, closed loop steppers I still can't get to run "closed".

But it seems like I am on the downhill, got some cable chain for the X to install and I'm getting to the end.

Need some slat material, hoping to find 1/8"x2.5" strap locally.
 
CarterKraft said:
I hear all the suggestions though and in my head (on any project really) I I design a space shuttle...
Maxh3 would have been so much easier, LCNC cost me a year or more in delays, same for Mesacard, closed loop steppers I still can't get to run "closed".

But it seems like I am on the downhill, got some cable chain for the X to install and I'm getting to the end.

Need some slat material, hoping to find 1/8"x2.5" strap locally.
Click to expand...


CarterKraft said:
On both brakes I ended up supporting sheets on angle iron and cutting my own slats on
Click to expand...
CarterKraft said:
I hear all the suggestions though and in my head (on any project really) I I design a space shuttle...
Maxh3 would have been so much easier, LCNC cost me a year or more in delays, same for Mesacard, closed loop steppers I still can't get to run "closed".

But it seems like I am on the downhill, got some cable chain for the X to install and I'm getting to the end.

Need some slat material, hoping to find 1/8"x2.5" strap locally.
Click to expand...

On both builds I ended up supporting sheets on some angle and cutting my own slats. It was much cheaper then buying strap.

I made my slats totally modular, in that the mounts and slats could all come out in one go. Made life way easier, and let me replace everything when the time came. I’ll need to find some photos.
 
That's an option too.
With only 32"x32" capacity one stick of strap should do it.
I am going to make a frame of 1"x1"x1/4" angle to set in the bottom, it will be a full perimeter frame with center, I plan on slotting the vertical leg with the chop saw so each curved slat will be removable individually and the whole frame can come out for more Z height if needed and the whole water pan can come out for even more Z.

So far the problem is finding 1/8" in 2/5" width but I've only checked one place so far.
 
YOLO it's on its way.

Prime day dropped the CUT80NP to $559 so with the 3 year warranty total was $675

1696950506085.png
 
Haven't opened it yet but I can tell you it's chunky, I think it said it weighed 40 lbs
My cut50 feels like it weighs 5 lbs...

Hypertherm 85 supposed to weigh 71 lbs

I might pull the lid and get some pix, probably put the voltage divider inside the machine if there's room or I might 3d print a box for the outside, inside would be preferred I think.
 
I ended up with the Hynade cut 60 for my table. It cuts 1/8" clean just one cut. I need to dial in my Z axis.
My only complaint is the air pressure is preset to 60? psi and not adjustable
Hopefully I can have more feedback over the next few days.
 
RustyC said:
I ended up with the Hynade cut 60 for my table. It cuts 1/8" clean just one cut. I need to dial in my Z axis.
My only complaint is the air pressure is preset to 60? psi and not adjustable
Hopefully I can have more feedback over the next few days.
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Do you just regulate it lower before sending it in to the cutter?
It's say max 75 psi but clearly shows lower than 60 as ideal psi on 120v.

1000007208.jpg
 
I did not see adjusting air pressure in the manual at all. I have 120 + psi inputted into the rear of machine. It internally regulates to 60 or so.
 
RustyC said:
I did not see adjusting air pressure in the manual at all. I have 120 + psi inputted into the rear of machine. It internally regulates to 60 or so.
Click to expand...
Less should be easy if you feed it with less right?
 
Busted the hynade open. It looks like all the boards are Arc Sonic which has a brand called Hero Cut with very similar models on AliExpress.

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m.aliexpress.com

Throwing these pix up in case of a need one day.

20231013_184506.jpg
20231013_184521.jpg
20231013_190056.jpg
20231013_190102.jpg
20231013_190110.jpg
 
Looks like the CUT 80 has an adjustable regulator. That will be a nice touch. I will probably open my CUT60 and see if I can see if I can bump the max air to 75 psi. Then I can externally regular lower.

I also was able to make the first cuts on my table. This thing will save me a lot of time.
 
After a long day of trial and error (mostly error) the table produced a part. I'm still learning the cut tool parameters vs post processing parameters and the effect they have on the actual cut. Trying to dial in cut speeds, torch height was frustrating.
I finally figured out late in the date I was trying to compensate for a worn nozzle.
Drier air in defiantly needed.

Screenshot 2023-10-14 203728.jpg

20231014_202230.jpg
 
RustyC said:
After a long day of trial and error (mostly error) the table produced a part. I'm still learning the cut tool parameters vs post processing parameters and the effect they have on the actual cut. Trying to dial in cut speeds, torch height was frustrating.
I finally figured out late in the date I was trying to compensate for a worn nozzle.
Drier air in defiantly needed.

Screenshot 2023-10-14 203728.jpg

20231014_202230.jpg
Click to expand...
I hear yah, I was celebrating too early because once I got sheetcam its a whole new learning curve.

Socket looks good though.:beer:
 
Does your manual have this page, very generic but it's in the 80 manual which looks like the same manual actually.
1000007318.jpg
 
RustyC said:
Mine only has the technical data not the cut chart. Thanks for sharing that.
Click to expand...
The front page of the manual has both the 80 and 60 model #'s on it, I wonder if you got the non CNC manual, or maybe just a older/newer version than I did.
 
The Razorweld non-high frequency machine that came with my Langmuir kit has served me well and the consumable's seem to last and be cheap. I'm not doing production work, just brackets for me and a few buddies, plus artsy stuff for my mom and daughters occasionally.
 
RM222 said:
The Razorweld non-high frequency machine that came with my Langmuir kit has served me well and the consumable's seem to last and be cheap. I'm not doing production work, just brackets for me and a few buddies, plus artsy stuff for my mom and daughters occasionally.
Click to expand...
When I was going to buy the Crossfire I was going to buy that machine with it.
Not the best and far from the worst is my thinking.
 
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