nobggrnchvy Goatbuilt Ibex

[thrillbilly85]

Imma keep hitting "page up" on my Lenovo

Haha. Honestly I'd be doing the same thing, if I knew what it was I'd be doing. I've got an Aces FI system on my 383, and when everything else is done, I'm gonna have to learn how to adjust stuff.

Cold start and idle before it's warmed up is just like you'd expect with an old Edelbrock 600 AutoZone special. I even have integrated ignition timing I can fuck with. You'd think a 39 year old could have a relatively decent grasp on what to do, but I don't know shit about shit, other than it seems like its rich AF at idle when it's cold. The fumes will choke you out.

 

[Bggrnchvy]

What's up with the finned valve covers that you can't use? It looks like the coils are inside the covers???

Super boomer covers.
Specially made to retain the heat and burn coils.


But looks cool

That

For the best they don't fit, but damn it, if they did I was going to run them! At least until I lost a coil pack and got mad

 

[Bggrnchvy]

Goal for the weekend was to get the drivetrain attached.



I drilled out and sleeved the mounting holes for the tranny crossmember.



Then the repurposed Goatbuilt bushing mount got chopped up and burned it. Thank you for easy bench fillet welds to make me look like the welder I am not.



Then it got bolted in place, and compressed with a floor jack and the tabs burned to the frame.



As you can see in the last picture I also cut down the NWF tail housing mount and made some tab edits to fit. Note to self, when you use a floor jack to set clearances, block them out as the jack may bleed down overnight and you might weld it all in just to find out you need to add 5/16"





Then there was the rinse/repeat of prepping some 1-1/2" .120w for the uppers and burning them together.




That let me get the front axle actually under the rig just before I had to call it quits. I ordered the lower links, they should be in a week or two and then I can get to work on the front suspension.

 

['84 Bronco II]

Looks great! I really dig the way you did the engine mounts and incorporated them with the engine skid. Are you running plain DOM for those uppers, or some fancy heat treated 4130/4140?

 

[Bggrnchvy]

Looks great! I really dig the way you did the engine mounts and incorporated them with the engine skid. Are you running plain DOM for those uppers, or some fancy heat treated 4130/4140?

All that is the Goatbuilt chassis, I am just the monkey welding it together.

Yes, plain DOM for the uppers. Here's to hoping they never contact a rock Lowers are treated 4130, or will be when they show up.

 

[Bggrnchvy]

Front bump cans mocked up using a drop of 2" .25w tube.



Goatbuilt winch fairlead mount in place with a Brennan's Garage fairlead.




Trying to do a better job of wiring on this rig than the last one. Old dirty cooler is just to show what they come from the factory like, that was the PS cooler out of the last rig. The clean one is the transmission cooler for this rig and I prepped the pigtail with a Deutsch connector used kapton underneath to strain relieve the wires a little and stuck the loom in place with some adhesive lined heat shrink. Then mounted the Deutsch connector to the fan shroud which hopefully keeps the wires from breaking off at the motor side. It's no Bonneville car, but hopefully I can keep the sparky gremlins at bay.



4130 treated lowers came in. I just finished boring the high misalignment spacers out to fit the 5/8" bolts (I got a pile of 9/16" HMS's from a friend) so I can get the rods ends to fit the tabs. Hopefully have them in shortly.

 

[Bggrnchvy]

All the links are in and they fit with a couple of threads showing.

There's a big space between the fuel cell and the back of the rear seats that's open to air on 4 sides, but impossible to really get to. It tapers from the top so it's bad for storage, the shocks are on both sides so access is pretty terrible and the rear truss comes up at full bump and eats the lower few inches. It seems like a good spot for a cooler, hopefully I can get some air flow from under the rig and then out the top/sides. It may need a duct to direct the air out and up after the fan pulls it through to cooler to keep it from recirculating and killing the efficiency.

I grabbed some scrap 10ga 304 plate and made some fast and dirty mounts with the iron worker. Not to self, the .5 in 7.5" spacing matters and should not be forgotten or you get to drill extra holes.



After tacking it in, I pulled the rear seat and panels to weld the mounts out and then put the cooler in. I need to probably put some PEM nuts in, getting the nuts on the backside isn't terrible, but it isn't easy.



Finally got the tube disconnects into the over engine crossmember, now that I know about where they needed to sit width wise. I added a 1/8" to get the fit in the nodes tighter.