My Last Jeep.

[RustyC]

Yep I think this one will be my Last Jeep, or at least a build thread for it. I've built a couple of rigs up to this point and I think I know what I want for this one.
I will turn 50 the summer of 24 and hope to have it driving by then.
Build specs (subject to change)
2005 Jeep LJ 250K miles.
Fabricated chassis.
Gen 4 LS engine
6L80 / Ford NP205
Fab 9" front 05-up outers / Detroit Locker 5.13's
Fab 9" rear unit bearing outers w ARB? 5.13's
3 link front / 4 link trailing arm rear
37"- 40" tire size

Goal it to have a rig I can drive wherever without too many compromises in performance and off road worries of only body damage.

 

[RustyC]

I built this Jeep in 2008 and it has seen a few changes over the years as I've learned a lot since the original build. Seems to have billion trail miles on it since.
5.3, th350 241/205 doubler 60 /14. I'm very happy with it but it's a trailer queen and my wife has grown quite fond of driving it.

 

[RustyC]

Then my sons started wanting a SXS. I wanted a buggy so this happened in around 2014.
5.3, th350, np205 flipped 9" axles. I raced a few Dirt Riot races in it with a little success, since then it's a been trail rig.
It is a ton of fun to drive fast in but theres not a lot of that in Alabama so.
I sold it to a friend last year so I still get to see and drive it to this day.

 

[RustyC]

I hope to apply what I've learned from those builds into this one.
I bought the LJ about 4 years ago. High mileage 250K southern Jeep no rust. I drove it for a while and really fell in love with it's size and ride quality vs my other TJ. Everything was good until the 4.0 developed OPDA issues and the cam gear was getting ugly.
Tear down started. I'm working in one half of a basement garage, small space but a solid floor and dry is enough to make me happy.

 

[RustyC]

Sold the rear Dana 44 and needed a way to move around the chassis and tub so this happened. Made me want another low rider.
That allowed me to move the tub to work on the chassis.

 

[RustyC]

The OEM chassis was picked clean and is in unbelievable shape. I considered what all would be cut off the chassis to fit the changes.
I just couldn't bring my self to start cutting.

 

[RustyC]

Work was scrapping a couple of engine stands. They got repurposed into a chassis fixture. Thinking it may become useful in the future since TJ/LJ frame are known to rust before the bodies.

 

[Bebop]

Good to see the progress on a thread finally !

 

[RustyC]

Time to cut some steel. Main sections are 2"x4", front and rear section will be 2"x3". The sections are miter cut, I though considered pie cutting and bending. I decided to cut the tube completely in two pieces. That would allow me to put an internal fish plate of the outside and a traditional fish plate on the inside. I may grind the weld smooth for ascetics but not 100% sure yet.

 

[RustyC]

I wanted to do a build thread for a couple of reasons.
#1 I hope I can help give someone an idea for their project. I know I have learned a ton and been inspired by reading forums for over a decade.

#2 Feed back. Sometimes preventing mistakes or discovering other options is better in the process than after the money and time is spent. If I get laughed at or praised for my workmanship both will produce better results.

 

[RustyC]

Barnes4wd make some sweet replacement body mounts. Fit together perfect. They have a couple of tabs/keys to fit on the top plate.
But after I tacked them together, mig welding over the tabs looks ...well bad. Out comes the grinder to humble myself.
Tab/keys ground off. Much cleaner welds.

 

[RustyC]

Norton make a blend disc for a 4.5" grinder. Very similar to a course scotchbright pad. They remove the discoloration of the welds without grinding them down. Makes average work look bling.

 

[chaplinfj60]

cool build for sure.

i too want to get into something that i drive, beat the snot out of it and drive back. but right now its the trailer for me... good start for sure

 

[RustyC]

I welded in a couple of temporary crossmembers between the main rails. I tacked (heavy) the body mounts on and pulled everything out of the fixture. Moved the fixture outside. Tub back inside. I was happy to see the the chassis bolt onto the tub perfectly.
Now to figure out the rear half / coilover mounts. I have ideas I just hope everything will fit without too much of a fight.

 

[NDCjeepsmith]

You sticking with coils for suspension?

 

[gt1guy]

This should be a cool build.

Do you plan to keep the creature comforts like working doors, soft top, AC?

 

[RustyC]

You sticking with coils for suspension?

Coilovers front and rear.

This should be a cool build.

Do you plan to keep the creature comforts like working doors, soft top, AC?

I have a set of full and half doors, hard top , softtop and wraparound wind jammer / bikini / tonneau cover combo.
A dress for any occasion.
I have an aluminum roof on my green Jeep and really love it so that may happen as well.
A/C yep, heat yep and maybe even seat heaters.

 

[NDCjeepsmith]

So what was factors in deciding not to narrow rear frame rails? I'm assuming you will be in front?

 

[RustyC]

So what was factors in deciding not to narrow rear frame rails? I'm assuming you will be in front?

The is the point I am at right now. The rear chassis will narrow just behind the front seats much like any back half kit.
The tubing will transition from 2"X4" to 2"X3" at that point.
I plan to keep the fuel tank under the tub so that does limit how narrow I will go to clear the fuel filler neck.
The rear coilover upper mount will build off this section as well and probably tie into the roll cage too.

The front will step down to 2"x3" tube that will gain 1" around the engine due the OEM frame is 2.5" wide vs 2.0"
The balance will be narrow enough to fit the coilover mounts but still wide enough for a A/C compressor to fit on the right side of the engine in the OEM spot down low. Those that LS swap TJ are known to section the OEM frame to clear the compressor. I hope to avoid that.
I will also have to make a steering box mount for a Saginaw gear as it is stronger vs the LJ's Mercedes box.
The steering will be hydro assist. I was planning to use the common Saginaw YJ/XJ box. Those are probably the easiest to source in a pinch in the event of a failure. The steering shaft breaking is my biggest concern on the entire build.

 

[Bebop]

The balance will be narrow enough to fit the coilover mounts but still wide enough for a A/C compressor to fit on the right side of the engine in the OEM spot down low. Those that LS swap TJ are known to section the OEM frame to clear the compressor. I hope to avoid that.

You could mount the AC compressor up high on the right head.

 

[NDCjeepsmith]

Ok, for some reason I thought you did rear section already and matched stock. You just did the center main 3 body mount portion so far though.

 

[SHARPMACHINE]

Great looking project!!!
All of your rigs look impressive.

 

[RustyC]

Great looking project!!!
All of your rigs look impressive.

Thanks. They were all built in the same garage. I want to build a shop but I do not love the property my house is on. My youngest graduates HS next year. We may move at that point and hopefully a shop then too.

 

[RunningProblem]

1. Why the 205? Familiarity? Why not an Atlas for full bling? If only for weight reasons?
2. Picture/link for this fancy weld buffing scotch bright pad.
3. Maybe post up some really detailed specs for this frame jig you built. Never know when someone will want to replicate your work.
4. Build threads are awsome. Advice, data tracking like a journal, easy to share, and if you ever want to sell it just provide one link.
5. If you do a selectable rear would you do onboard air? Viair, or ARB compressor? Electric might be cooler like the new Rubicon J(whatever) have.

 

[jps4jeep]

It's no joke, I can attest to the frames rotting out before the bodies developing rust...

I'm digging the build and look forward to the progress.

 

[RustyC]

I chose the NP 205 mainly for the cost and it fit my needs. I wanted strong, driver drop and able to twin stick. Yes the gear ratio sucks in most applications. The 6l80 has a 4:1 first gear so it makes up for the lack of gearing in the t-case.
Here is a gear ratio comparison between a 4L80 / Atlas 3.0 vs a 6l80 / NP205. The 6l80/205 has just slightly lower gearing.
We require wheel speed on the East coast so super deep gearing is not needed. In fact, the green Jeep above has a 241/205 doubler and I run it with the 241 in low and 205 in high. 2.72:1 ratio. Very rarely it goes double low.

Norton Quick Blend disc.
Bear-Tex High Strength Rapid Blend AO Medium Grit Non-Woven Depressed Center Disc

I can get jig specs when I get it back from the yard.

I hope I can fit a YORK OBA compressor under the hood for the lockers and tires. Space runs out fast when fitting an intake that gets cool air, an A/C compressor and steering resi. Viair 100% duty cycle is the next option.

 

[RustyC]

I have been busy as a bee at work the past few weeks and it has limited my time spent on the Jeep. I have been able to make a little progress though. Having this thread helps the motivation to get something done and provide some content here.
I had originally planned on a traditional tube hoop or shock tower. I plan to tie the top of the upper shock mount into the cage b pillar or harness bar for strength. I almost bit off more than I could chew making these.(LOTS! of drilling) The work motivated me to pursue having my own small plasma table. They are done and I'm happy with the results so far.

 

[RustyC]

Rear 4 link is complete. Looks like there will be about 5" uptravel in the rear. Trying to balance between low ride height and as much uptravel I fit. I will be using a 12" shock. I have some 2.5" Kings that fit but only 7" travel. 🙁
Waiting on unit bearing cups to arrive and it will be a little closer to a roller.

 

[RustyC]

I've been working on it yes. Trying to work out some details before I get too far in. I'm trying to get 45* steering out of a 70" wms front axle with 05 up D60 knuckles and learning Fusion 360 in the process. The goal is great Ackerman angle and a high degree of steering. Steering assist with a double ended cylinder behind the axle tube.
Looks possible but I'm not sure if the tie rod will clear the third member at this point.

 

[Bebop]

Not sure I like these arms.

What's wrong with keeping the ram in front of the axle ?