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Has anyone had issues with the drill chucks on Dewalt shit? Years ago I bought a combo pack...all cheaper brushed stuff that came with a drill. The chuck was shit. I found an old 18V Dewalt for free and swapped the chuck from that and it still slips like crazy on round shank drills (which are all my drills). Do the higher line drills have better chucks?
yes... can't keep it tight to save a bus load of nuns
 
Learned this week that with a little trimming and a 10k resistor you can make bauer tools use Dewalt batteries. Since they are all on sale this weekend I'm filling out a lot of the odd tools with those - heat gun, maybe the glue gun, shear
 
I've been toying with the idea of getting one of the adapters. Benefit there is you aren't voiding the warranty on the tools by cutting and hacking them. However, now I'm wondering about the resistor and whether that is in the adapter? Any further info on what is actually going on with the resistor? I had just figured it was 20V to 20V and it was just an issue of different "plugs" on them and adapting that.

 
I've been toying with the idea of getting one of the adapters. Benefit there is you aren't voiding the warranty on the tools by cutting and hacking them. However, now I'm wondering about the resistor and whether that is in the adapter? Any further info on what is actually going on with the resistor? I had just figured it was 20V to 20V and it was just an issue of different "plugs" on them and adapting that.


Given that you tear off the terminal the resistor is connected to so it doesn't contact the battery the resistor is likely either a test of the battery or (more likely) a temperature sensor.

Given that a 10k thermistor is 10k ohm at 25c this is a good confirmation. It's basically telling the tool that the battery is always at a safe temp.

I'd assume DeWalt batteries have an internal temp sensor that will shut the pack off before thermal runaway so the risk is minimal.
 
Ok, that makes sense. Attempting to look into things, I've also seen some comments about DeWalt having low-voltage protection of the batteries - that you can't over-discharge them - while the Bauer doesn't have that and can run a battery too low.
 
I'm all in on yellow. The chucks absolutely suck, even on a brand new one. Every single time, the bit will come loose when it's first tightened.

This blower is fucking awesome:

ba94-e38d06d1a936.7aa5af0dc041b6b3d1489715cb9be80a.jpg


I bought a pair of these stubby drivers last time they went on sale. Really nice.

melbournetoolsales.com.au%2Fassets%2Ffull%2FDCF850.jpg
 

These don’t suck. Cordless inflators that run in the 20v batteries
 
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I'm all in on yellow. The chucks absolutely suck, even on a brand new one. Every single time, the bit will come loose when it's first tightened.

This blower is fucking awesome:

ba94-e38d06d1a936.7aa5af0dc041b6b3d1489715cb9be80a.jpg


I bought a pair of these stubby drivers last time they went on sale. Really nice.

melbournetoolsales.com.au%2Fassets%2Ffull%2FDCF850.jpg

I have literally never had an issue with the chucks not gripping drill bits...are you idiots just not using them right? Usually the drill will stall or twist my wrists apart before the bit slips?

Also, the newer 777 blower is badass, that's the older 772?

The 850's are ok but I like my old 887's better, the newer 945/940 is a step up from both but I just have a better feel for my 887.

If you're bored, I did a bunch of testing on a shit ton of Dewalt models:







 
I have literally never had an issue with the chucks not gripping drill bits...are you idiots just not using them right? Usually the drill will stall or twist my wrists apart before the bit slips?
This. I'd have to go look to get the model numbers, but I have a brushed drill and a brushless hammer drill and don't have issues with either. I'll admit that the hammer drill has a better chuck than the regular drill, but even the regular one doesn't have issues.
 
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My favorites have been:

20v shopvac, like others have said, it's not as good as a corded one. But it sure is convenient.

Oscillating multitool is hugely useful for any type of remodeling or carpentry work

LED work light is super handy and lasts a long time

Heat gun is handy and puts out good heat, but it burns through batteries

String trimmer works well, but eats batteries

Pole saw. Works great, good battery life. Only complaint is that like any other saw, it leaks bar oil everywhere

20V SDS hammer drill. Great for drilling holes for tap cons and redheads and such. Burns through batteries running a core bit.
 
I'm all in on yellow. The chucks absolutely suck, even on a brand new one. Every single time, the bit will come loose when it's first tightened.

This blower is fucking awesome:

ba94-e38d06d1a936.7aa5af0dc041b6b3d1489715cb9be80a.jpg


I bought a pair of these stubby drivers last time they went on sale. Really nice.

melbournetoolsales.com.au%2Fassets%2Ffull%2FDCF850.jpg
Are you tightening and locking the chuck? Never had an issue on any of mine. Crank it all the way tight then turn it back like 1/8th of a turn to lock it
 
. Crank it all the way tight then turn it back like 1/8th of a turn to lock it
That's the dumbest shit the internet has ever come up with. I've been using keyless chucks for 30 years and have never had to do that. The only problems I've had were with some POS harbor freight chuck that would only grab on 2 jaws and this stupid dewalt chuck...and the other dewalt chuck that I replaced it with.
 
That's the dumbest shit the internet has ever come up with. I've been using keyless chucks for 30 years and have never had to do that. The only problems I've had were with some POS harbor freight chuck that would only grab on 2 jaws and this stupid dewalt chuck...and the other dewalt chuck that I replaced it with.
I've got a 20v that's maybe 10 years old. It has an all metal chuck. Never had an issue with it spinning bits. I've never tried or heard of the 1/8th turn backwards to lock. On the 18v version, I remember the cheaper version with a plastic encased chuck being a pain in the ass. If you have that version in a 20v I would assume that was the issue.
 
Most of the people I have seen have issues with slipping bits got oil on the bit or chuck. Clean it with brake cleaner and clean the bits too.



Also, this is super handy.

 
Mine has a chuck that ratchets when you tighten it. I've never had a problem with it coming loose.
 
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Are you tightening and locking the chuck? Never had an issue on any of mine. Crank it all the way tight then turn it back like 1/8th of a turn to lock it
I run it full throttle and grab it like a man to lock it. Then I'll drill 2 holes and the bit falls out. I'll tighten it again and the bit stays locked perfectly until I'm done. Every time it does this same sequence. I'll try to back it off an 8th and see what happens.
 
I've never had a problem with the chuck loosening, or drills falling out. It just doesn't clamp down tight enough. Maybe it's because I use good high dollar drills from McMaster instead that shit they sell at Home Depot. I was thinking maybe the drill shanks are too hard, but based on the burr that gets raised when it slips, that can't really be the case I don't think.
 
I run it full throttle and grab it like a man to lock it. Then I'll drill 2 holes and the bit falls out. I'll tighten it again and the bit stays locked perfectly until I'm done. Every time it does this same sequence. I'll try to back it off an 8th and see what happens.

Same problem I have, and it's marred up a few of my expensive bits.
 
I run it full throttle and grab it like a man to lock it. Then I'll drill 2 holes and the bit falls out. I'll tighten it again and the bit stays locked perfectly until I'm done. Every time it does this same sequence. I'll try to back it off an 8th and see what happens.

LMFAO well that's your problem, run it down under power but you need to ratchet with the drill off. No need to do the back off, just get it snug, stop the fucking drill, and ratchet it down...that shit won't move.

These are not the old shit chucks of yesteryear where you could tighten/loose with your hand under power, these are ratcheting chucks.
 
That's the dumbest shit the internet has ever come up with. I've been using keyless chucks for 30 years and have never had to do that. The only problems I've had were with some POS harbor freight chuck that would only grab on 2 jaws and this stupid dewalt chuck...and the other dewalt chuck that I replaced it with.
 
Yeah, I've seen the "turn it backwards" stuff, but have never done that.

LMFAO well that's your problem, run it down under power but you need to ratchet with the drill off. No need to do the back off, just get it snug, stop the fucking drill, and ratchet it down...that shit won't move.

This. With it off, crank it until it stops ratcheting. I've never had issues with anything slipping.
 
...but it burns through batteries

...but eats batteries

...burns through batteries...

I have a couple of the 1 or 2 AH batteries at the house that I'll use for quick household tasks. For the workshop, I have a pair of 5 AH 20V batteries and a pair of 9 AH 60V batteries. Using the DCB1112 12amp fast charger, I can typically recharge a battery before I deplete the second one.

The 20V tools that tend to use more battery power than normal, I'll put a 60V battery on them. Downside is that those batteries are significantly heavier. Also, if I'm just cleaning something up I'll use a 20V grinder, but if I'm cleaning up welds or really working on something I'll pull out a corded grinder.
 
LMFAO well that's your problem, run it down under power but you need to ratchet with the drill off. No need to do the back off, just get it snug, stop the fucking drill, and ratchet it down...that shit won't move.

These are not the old shit chucks of yesteryear where you could tighten/loose with your hand under power, these are ratcheting chucks.
I'm not sure you understand what the term "ratcheting" means.....

Clicking does not = ratcheting...clicking = detents.

Ratcheting means it freewheels in one direction (while typically making clicky noises) while it locks up in the other direction, like a sprag clutch but with teeth. There is no "ratcheting" mechanism in a drill chuck.
 
I'm not sure you understand what the term "ratcheting" means.....

Clicking does not = ratcheting...clicking = detents.

Ratcheting means it freewheels in one direction (while typically making clicky noises) while it locks up in the other direction, like a sprag clutch but with teeth. There is no "ratcheting" mechanism in a drill chuck.

I guess Jacob's must be lying then:


1715817554022.png
 
I'm not sure you understand what the term "ratcheting" means.....

Clicking does not = ratcheting...clicking = detents.

Ratcheting means it freewheels in one direction (while typically making clicky noises) while it locks up in the other direction, like a sprag clutch but with teeth. There is no "ratcheting" mechanism in a drill chuck.

And Dewalt too while we're at it...


1715817736621.png
 
Yeah, I've seen the "turn it backwards" stuff, but have never done that.



This. With it off, crank it until it stops ratcheting. I've never had issues with anything slipping.


I feel like we need to specify which drill we're doing this with. I do exactly that, zip it down with power, then crank by hand like a man with the drill off. My shit slips bad.

Maybe it's only an issue with the higher power drills?
 
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