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Multipurpose Tahoe Build

I need to start getting parts on order. Called Poly yesterday to see about buying the same Fox coilovers I ran on the dmax. Currently have an 11 MONTH LEAD TIME. WTF. :eek:
Luckily it seems that Accutune can save the day, albeit a much higher end shock than I was planning on, but at least they have them (Fox 2.5 DSC)

Rod ends: My plan is to go with EMF rod ends for all steering parts. Ball/Socket joints for the ram, and their adjustable heims for the knuckles.
For the radius arms, I'm actually thinking about using the Synergy Dual Durometer Bushings. Radius arms have an inherent bind, and having some flex in the joints would be a plus.

Synergy Joints


I used them on my jeep that I built last year and had no complaints. Anyone recommend anything else or want to try and steer me away before I order?




I know jeeps are kinda :rainbow:, but this one was actually a pretty fun little rig. And now that I think about it, it was running the same DSC shocks that I'll end up running on the Tahoe. And I really liked those Yokohama G003 tires so maybe I'll run those too.

JL rubicon 2dr
6 speed manual
5.38 gears
35s
PSC steering
RCV axles front/rear
1350 drivelines




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So it turns out that buried in that 1:1 GM frame print that I'm using, is the crankshaft centerline. Using that piece of info, I was able to locate the engine block in the model. Then by going out and taking a few measurements on the parts tahoe, I was able to loosely place the bottom of the oil pan where it will pass over the track bar.

Looks like it's gonna clear. :smokin:






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Nice! That's a great piece of information to find and save time.
 
This is what i'm thinking for the radius arms. Pretty simple and should be strong enough with the 2" x 1/4" DOM tubing.

Anyone have experience with the Synergy DBB bushings?





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adventr said:
I definitely plan on making all the cuts look as nice as possible. Not trying to hack anything. I will need minor work on the back edge of the fender when fully compressed and wheels turned. Looks like it will be pretty doable without getting into the cab or anything.
Thanks!









A guy in Utah makes these rear adapters. Pretty beefy:



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Click to expand...
who makes them? what do they cost?
 
adventr said:
This is what i'm thinking for the radius arms. Pretty simple and should be strong enough with the 2" x 1/4" DOM tubing.

Anyone have experience with the Synergy DBB bushings?





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Is there any inherent weakness with having the lower section of a radius arm as the "short link" vs the more traditional design of the aftermarket units where the lower section the long one. You should have more ground clearance but maybe less packaging upstairs.
 
Just thinking thru things on the front specifically (not an engineer) but the one piece going all the way thru to the lower point I would think would help with the higher loads when braking? Basically the axle wants to torque the pinion up under braking force so the lower mount gets pushed on harder towards the frame in compression. At least that's the benefit I see with a solid lower? I'm sure Tim will correct me if I'm wrong there, he seems to have all of this pretty sorted out from previous builds.
 
Midget said:
Just thinking thru things on the front specifically (not an engineer) but the one piece going all the way thru to the lower point I would think would help with the higher loads when braking? Basically the axle wants to torque the pinion up under braking force so the lower mount gets pushed on harder towards the frame in compression. At least that's the benefit I see with a solid lower? I'm sure Tim will correct me if I'm wrong there, he seems to have all of this pretty sorted out from previous builds.
Click to expand...

gmcxt said:
Is there any inherent weakness with having the lower section of a radius arm as the "short link" vs the more traditional design of the aftermarket units where the lower section the long one. You should have more ground clearance but maybe less packaging upstairs.
Click to expand...



It's real easy to start overthinking that kind of stuff. Truth is, it all moves together and in either configuration would be stronger than the weakest link the chain.
I chose the shown configuration for ground clearance and packaging. I had thought about doing a bent arm, but this way is easier to mfg and would ultimately be stronger.
 
Moving on to the steering ram mount. Going to end up making this a really nice piece. Will end up tying the link mounts in and gusseting everything.




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adventr said:
It's real easy to start overthinking that kind of stuff. Truth is, it all moves together and in either configuration would be stronger than the weakest link the chain.
I chose the shown configuration for ground clearance and packaging. I had thought about doing a bent arm, but this way is easier to mfg and would ultimately be stronger.
Click to expand...

This is what keeps most of my unfinished projects unfinished. Overthinking and trying to hold out for the theoretical "best of the best" (which usually means the most expensive and difficult) ends up leaving me with nothing half the time. Sometimes you just have to call it good enough, especially when "good enough" really does have legitimate benefits like you said: ground clearance and packaging.

I'm no expert, not even close. I may know more than the average flat billed mall crawler but compared to the p/irate crowd I'm still a noob. That said, I CAN tell you that what you plan will run circles around what our trucks came with stock, or with a bolt-on lift kit. Also, this thing is a Tahoe, not a rock buggy. What might be better on paper might not be worth it in real life when you consider other "bottle necks" in your build.
 
boy&hisdogs said:
This is what keeps most of my unfinished projects unfinished. Overthinking and trying to hold out for the theoretical "best of the best" (which usually means the most expensive and difficult) ends up leaving me with nothing half the time. Sometimes you just have to call it good enough, especially when "good enough" really does have legitimate benefits like you said: ground clearance and packaging.

I'm no expert, not even close. I may know more than the average flat billed mall crawler but compared to the p/irate crowd I'm still a noob. That said, I CAN tell you that what you plan will run circles around what our trucks came with stock, or with a bolt-on lift kit. Also, this thing is a Tahoe, not a rock buggy. What might be better on paper might not be worth it in real life when you consider other "bottle necks" in your build.
Click to expand...

100% agree with you. I've been there in the past and have learned to just call some things "good" and move on.
Though I am not an engineer, I do have engineers that work for me. If there was an area I was concerned with I could have it reviewed, but so far I see no issues.

And good point about this being a Tahoe and not a rock racing buggy. Lol
I don't intend to trash it, but it will be capable and used.

Speaking of intended usage..... Here is the type of terrain that I am building it for:









Lots of cool vids on that channel.
 
There's a term for that. Analysis paralysis. We deal with that in engineering all the time and sometimes you just have to accept either some risk or that it's not perfect and will be just fine in the application 99.999% of the time.

Honestly Tim, I think this will be the most capable of your previous Multipurpose rigs (Ram, Duramax) so far, even though it has smaller tires than the Ram. Though you may want to snag some more aggressive (tread pattern) tires if you're going to be playing around in the sloppy mess from that video :flipoff2:
 
adventr said:
This is what i'm thinking for the radius arms. Pretty simple and should be strong enough with the 2" x 1/4" DOM tubing.

Anyone have experience with the Synergy DBB bushings?
Click to expand...

I turned my BIL onto them when he rebuilt the links in his daily driver Cummins tow rig. A couple years of driving on them now, no slop and no squeaks, it doesn't articulate much though.

I also have them on both ends of my track bar in my daily Dodge. They've outlasted the old rods ends by about 3 fold now as well, still tight and quiet.

From my experience with the GMT400 chassis, do everything you can to spread the radius arm frame mounts out and disperse the loading both back on the lower edge and into the vertical all you can. After the front boxed section, the frame is not that stout.
 
Bggrnchvy said:
I turned my BIL onto them when he rebuilt the links in his daily driver Cummins tow rig. A couple years of driving on them now, no slop and no squeaks, it doesn't articulate much though.

I also have them on both ends of my track bar in my daily Dodge. They've outlasted the old rods ends by about 3 fold now as well, still tight and quiet.

From my experience with the GMT400 chassis, do everything you can to spread the radius arm frame mounts out and disperse the loading both back on the lower edge and into the vertical all you can. After the front boxed section, the frame is not that stout.
Click to expand...
Those style of bushings have been around for decades in smaller sized geared toward the hot rod crowd. I would have no qualms about running one in a size appropriate for the vehicle.
 
DMANbluesfreak said:
There's a term for that. Analysis paralysis. We deal with that in engineering all the time and sometimes you just have to accept either some risk or that it's not perfect and will be just fine in the application 99.999% of the time.

Honestly Tim, I think this will be the most capable of your previous Multipurpose rigs (Ram, Duramax) so far, even though it has smaller tires than the Ram. Though you may want to snag some more aggressive (tread pattern) tires if you're going to be playing around in the sloppy mess from that video :flipoff2:
Click to expand...


So i've got some Thornbirds on order.... :laughing:
 
Bggrnchvy said:
I turned my BIL onto them when he rebuilt the links in his daily driver Cummins tow rig. A couple years of driving on them now, no slop and no squeaks, it doesn't articulate much though.

I also have them on both ends of my track bar in my daily Dodge. They've outlasted the old rods ends by about 3 fold now as well, still tight and quiet.

From my experience with the GMT400 chassis, do everything you can to spread the radius arm frame mounts out and disperse the loading both back on the lower edge and into the vertical all you can. After the front boxed section, the frame is not that stout.
Click to expand...

Good to know! I realized that my jeep suspension links (full Synergy kit) was also running those bushings and I had no issues, but I only put at 5k miles on that thing.
And yep, the suspension crossmember shown in the renderings is just a mock-up to get positioning correct. The finished part will be plenty stout.



arse_sidewards said:
Those style of bushings have been around for decades in smaller sized geared toward the hot rod crowd. I would have no qualms about running one in a size appropriate for the vehicle.
Click to expand...

Good deal. I believe these should work just fine for me.
 
Are you planning to use Synergy bushings on all 4 joints of each radius arm? Seems like you only need 2 to allow for deflection at axle end. Any reason to use them over a heim on frame end?

I'm using 2 regular Ruff' bushed sleeves on my radius arm setup, they deflect more than enough to get full articulation limited with a bump/strap.

Looking forward to the build!
 
rattle_snake said:
Are you planning to use Synergy bushings on all 4 joints of each radius arm? Seems like you only need 2 to allow for deflection at axle end. Any reason to use them over a heim on frame end?

I'm using 2 regular Ruff' bushed sleeves on my radius arm setup, they deflect more than enough to get full articulation limited with a bump/strap.

Looking forward to the build!
Click to expand...


Yeah, I'm gonna give it a shot and see how it goes. My only concern would be the bushings being too soft for use on the frame ends, but apparently Synergy has switched all of their arms/trackbars to use these bushings on both sides. That, and feedback from others, gives me hope that they will be fine for my application. Biggest advantage I see over something like a heim is lack of maintenance and noise.

Worst case, I can swap those ends out for a flex joint or something.
 
adventr said:
Yeah, I'm gonna give it a shot and see how it goes. My only concern would be the bushings being too soft for use on the frame ends, but apparently Synergy has switched all of their arms/trackbars to use these bushings on both sides. That, and feedback from others, gives me hope that they will be fine for my application. Biggest advantage I see over something like a heim is lack of maintenance and noise.

Worst case, I can swap those ends out for a flex joint or something.
Click to expand...
Frame end is far less demanding of the bushing than the axle end because the bushing is at the low force end of a long lever. The main concern is that you hammer the rubber to shit with fore-aft forces if the bushing is too small for how soft it is. Considering how long the bushings last on the various 450+ cab and chassis Ford sells I think you'll be fine.
 
Axle tubes cut/prepped and Cs in place for welding. 7 degrees of caster at the Cs with my desired pinion angle. Planning to weld up tomorrow morning so if anyone sees a problem in these pics, speak now or forever hold your peace. :flipoff2:


Making headway at least.






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