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MCI 102-C3 coach to RV - Electrical System

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Officially going digital.

Got a refurb Samsung Tab S5e and an Arduino Mega 2560. Hopefully ordering the OneGauge hub next along with a few sensors. I've been listing what I want as far as gauges and sensors.

For putting the apps on the tablet without needing to use a Google account, I downloaded APK Extractor on my phone to save apps as files. Plugged my phone into my laptop via USB, opened the extraction folder, copied the saved app file folders to my laptop desktop, then plugged the tablet into my laptop via USB to copy the app folders to the Downloads folder on the tablet. Opened the folders on the tablet and tap on each app file to install it. That's all it took. No Samsung, Google, or any other account needed on the tablet to load the apps.

Edit: Adding in the tablet actual display dimensions. 8.915"x5.575". The online specs are pretty dang close. Prior to ordering this, I wasn't sure if the specs would be all that accurate.


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Got the OneGauge hub with the odometer module and eight relays ordered yesterday. Ordered most of the sensors today. I'm going to attempt to extract all the port plugs that seal where I intend to place the sensors. I swear Detroit set every plug with an impact and the thread sealer they use could hold a bridge together.

My list of sensors to work with the hub.

Sensor list.PNG
 
Extraordinary weather today. We got up early and started the roof solar layout. About to head to town to pick up 21 sticks of unistrut and a pile of fasteners. The unistrut slots almost line up perfectly with the roof skin rivets.

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TTMotorsports said:
I thought the OneGauge system came in a box to mount it?
Click to expand...

It does if you choose that option. I'm leaning towards a translucent enclosure so that the indicator LED's are visible. That and something completely waterproof. One of the nice things about what Michael is offering with the OneGauge is that you can add or subtract just about anything on the order to fit your needs and budget. You can also perform all the programming if you're capable. Coding is one thing I never got in to. I found it utterly boring in my teens and don't really have the time or focus to learn it now.
 
Another snowy night, so I started on updating the arduino. I'm checking with neighbors to see if any of them have something newer than Windows 7 and will let me attempt it on their computer. Both our computers have 7 and neither one will bother to find the arduino on any com port. I won't be surprised if this is a problem specific to Windows 7 and older.

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Are you using a usb to serial adapter?
If so, I would bad that it's using a "prolific compatible" chip that isn't actually made by prolific and so the prolific driver included with Windows is sabotaging it.
You need the older prolific driver, one place you can get it is the AutomationDirect Click software installer. Another would be Startech.
If you search for prolific driver you should be able to find more information than you ever wanted to know about what they did and why.

Aaron Z
 
aczlan said:
Are you using a usb to serial adapter?
If so, I would bad that it's using a "prolific compatible" chip that isn't actually made by prolific and so the prolific driver included with Windows is sabotaging it.
You need the older prolific driver, one place you can get it is the AutomationDirect Click software installer. Another would be Startech.
If you search for prolific driver you should be able to find more information than you ever wanted to know about what they did and why.

Aaron Z
Click to expand...

I'm not. Just a A-B usb cable like what's shown on the OneGauge instructions. One neighbor got back to me. They have a computer I can try when I wake up this afternoon. If this doesn't work, I'll look into the usb to serial adapter.
 
aczlan said:
It has a USB to serial adapter built in, that is why you need to pick a COM port.
If you go into the Device Manager, does it show the right device name as shown in your directions?
If not, you might need to install the driver, this looks like it might be the right one: https://www.arduino.cc/en/Guide/DriverInstallation

Aaron Z
Click to expand...

I was in the device manager last night. It only shows two ports and no arduino. Ran updates, showed hidden devices, etc. and nothing. This computer is missing a number of drivers. It was some refurb my wife got off Amazon or something. I'll see what can do to install a driver.

Edit: Screenshot of what I was getting last night and still get today. The driver attempts to install when I plug the arduino in, but fails. Can't seem to get an update for it.

coms.PNG
 
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If it's a real arduino product (not a Chinese copy), it may need a FTDI serial/usb chip driver. All of these are standard in win10, but can be added to win7. I can't remember the right driver version right now (there was a bunch of drama with certain versions bricking fake chips), but I'd bet the arduino forum can tell you the right version.
 
egdinger said:
If it's a real arduino product (not a Chinese copy), it may need a FTDI serial/usb chip driver. All of these are standard in win10, but can be added to win7. I can't remember the right driver version right now (there was a bunch of drama with certain versions bricking fake chips), but I'd bet the arduino forum can tell you the right version.
Click to expand...

About to go there now. It's an Arduino Mega 2560 that I bought directly from the Arduino store. Didn't want to bother with Chinese copies on this. I don't know a whole lot about these, so it may take me a while to wade through all the info. I appreciate any insight you guys give me. The simple shit is tripping me up again.
 
egdinger said:
If it's a real arduino product (not a Chinese copy), it may need a FTDI serial/usb chip driver. All of these are standard in win10, but can be added to win7. I can't remember the right driver version right now (there was a bunch of drama with certain versions bricking fake chips), but I'd bet the arduino forum can tell you the right version.
Click to expand...
That would be my guess. Per the Arduino link I posted earlier, if you install the Arduino studio (or whatever they call their configuration software) it should install the drivers.
Failing that, post a screenshot of the hardware ids for that device (right click on the unknown device, go to the details tab and choose hardware ids from the drop-down menu) and someone can probably point you to the right driver.


Aaron Z
 
There's that. The problem was indeed that Windows 7 (at least the versions we have) is a tad too old to recognize the arduino without a driver installation. The solution is to download and run Arduino IDE 1.8.13. Attempting to manually install the driver through the device manager will fail because it will not locate the driver file. I ran the 1.8.13.exe and it was smooth as butter.

So now I should be able to push all my sensor code to it via Xloader.

coms.PNG
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Progress on the solar mounting. Due to the curvature of the roof, I needed to come up with angled mounts or some kind of pivot for misalignment.

Tie rod ends are dirt cheap and very sturdy. They also give me a ball pivot that allows some wiggle to compensate for body flex as the wheels on the bus go 'round and 'round. And the most important to some, array tilting. Kinda killed two or three birds with one stone on this one.

I checked applications and parts numbers on a tie rod end image search of every unit that looked like it would work. Narrowed them down on Rock Auto by price and what thread sizes were given or could be estimated. Prices range from under $3 to under $9 each. Bought 7 different units to measure. I'll be choosing one or two according to shortest distance between mounting surfaces and thread diameters that fit the roof and unistrut slots.

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Been pretty busy lately. Got a pile of the API 260095257 tie rods and some silicone washers for the unistrut solar mounts. The tie rods are M14-1.5 on both ends. Couldn't find a coupler nut with that thread, so I got some 7/8" steel hex bar in a McMaster order so that I could make the nuts myself. Wife wants me to show her how to drill and tap them on the lathe so that she can do it.

We got a HF service tool cart assembled today. Cleaned up and tightened my lathe, then moved it onto the cart in the shed. Slowly moving all the tools and shelving out of the bus so we have room to work from the roof down to work on the electrical routing.

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Finished up seven of the nuts today. I can't start installing the tie rods until I get some washers to go over the silicone washers. Springtime storms are here. Don't need any roof leaks.

We're not too far off from getting some panels on the roof. I'll have to come up with something to cover each panel as I put them on. The hail out here is small, but it comes down like gravel pouring out of a dump truck. And it happens often.

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Roof cable entry coming together. This is a little different, obviously. All the standard offerings I could come up with were plastic. We've learned our lesson with plastics at high elevation. Went with stainless fittings from Supply House. I got in a hurry and placed the order without the close nipple, so that's on the way in another order. I still have to get the cord grips through McMaster unless I figure out where to find them cheaper.
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aczlan said:
Why not use an cast T condolet? Either aluminum: Crouse-Hinds T55 Die Cast Aluminum Type T Conduit Outlet Body 1-1/2 Inch Condulet: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific or the heavier galvanized version: Crouse-Hinds T75M 3/4 In Malleable Iron Form 5 Rigid Conduit Outlet Body Type TB, - - Amazon.com

Aaron Z
Click to expand...
I've had a lot of trouble with those leaking. Not enough hardware to clamp the gasket down around the perimeter. Would've been just as ideal though. I got the cross so I would have a top port access for feeding wires around the 90° bends. It was all pretty cheap import fittings.
 
Just a start on the gauge cluster graphics. Got every gauge on there. 3-3/8" and 2-1/16" faces that I think I will decrease the diameters of. Don't really need them that large on a digital screen. I'll rough in some indicator lights after a while.

The OneGauge hub is capable of communicating with two Bluetooth devices simultaneously. There were so many gauges that I went ahead and laid them out for two tablet screens. One tablet will contain the low-priority gauges that are really only needed for driving. The high-priority set will contain every pertinent gauge for diagnosing problems while in the engine bay. Both tablets will be easily removable, but having one dedicated to carrying to the rear of the bus for readings while wrenching will be awesome.
Cluster 1.PNG
 
Is there a way to make one of those wired? Not sure about the device you are using, but I know my phone has a really hard time handling both an OBD2 reader and a phone conversation at the same time over Bluetooth and having your main one be able to be plugged in might be better than having a glitch out on occasion.

Aaron Z
 
aczlan said:
Is there a way to make one of those wired? Not sure about the device you are using, but I know my phone has a really hard time handling both an OBD2 reader and a phone conversation at the same time over Bluetooth and having your main one be able to be plugged in might be better than having a glitch out on occasion.

Aaron Z
Click to expand...
There is. I can add a CANbus module to the hub and converter to either tablet. To connect a second Bluetooth device, I have to put a second module on the hub. I'm going to test it all out wirelessly first because of the simplicity.
 
JNHEscher said:
There is. I can add a CANbus module to the hub and converter to either tablet. To connect a second Bluetooth device, I have to put a second module on the hub. I'm going to test it all out wirelessly first because of the simplicity.
Click to expand...
Makes sense, for 2ndary wireless is fine, but for your primary HMI I wouldn't want it to be wireless.

Aaron Z
 
aczlan said:
Makes sense, for 2ndary wireless is fine, but for your primary HMI I wouldn't want it to be wireless.

Aaron Z
Click to expand...
Agree. I'll likely order the CAN module, twisted pair, converter, etc. to have on hand. Brought up the BT vs. CAN thing to Michael and Jani. Only difficulty is getting a tablet to communicate with a CAN. I should be able to wire another CAN connection in the engine bay for the tablet to talk to.

For now, BT just to see how it does.
 
IMO BT for testing and diagnostics is great.
BT for your speedometer, oil pressure gauge, oil/water temp gauges, etc is another and us to be avoided if possible.

Aaron Z
 
What's your why on that? I don't want to use BT for anything but music because the signal seems like it can be rather unstable. Given that BT is ready to go on the hub and tablet, I'm curious to how it acts.
 
From what I've seen with Bluetooth and Torque Pro or ForScan on my car, if it's just doing that it seems to do well and be stable enough for testing or secondary gauges. If I am also trying to stream music or have a phone call over Bluetooth, the gauges get laggy.

As a general rule, I don't trust wireless for critical things like primary gauges.

Aaron Z
 
aczlan said:
From what I've seen with Bluetooth and Torque Pro or ForScan on my car, if it's just doing that it seems to do well and be stable enough for testing or secondary gauges. If I am also trying to stream music or have a phone call over Bluetooth, the gauges get laggy.

As a general rule, I don't trust wireless for critical things like primary gauges.

Aaron Z
Click to expand...
Exact reason I'm not going to play any music or have any music apps on either tablet. My phone does the same thing when music is running in conjunction with other apps.
 
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