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MCI 102-C3 coach to RV - Chassis/Suspension

CarterKaft said,
gavan said:
Start looking for a HEMTT. Seriously. You can get them under 10k and there you go... all your everything you need​
Probably the best idea yet...

Build some jacks to raise the bus and drive a new chassis under it with badass powertrain.
 
87manche said,

where's mt4runners photoshop of the camper on the 5 ton chassis?

but seriously, how far do you intend to take a bus offroad? I get why they did it in iceland, cause all the flotation you can get, but that's still flat.
 
gavan said:
Start looking for a HEMTT. Seriously. You can get them under 10k and there you go... all your everything you need​
x200 I already looked them up a few months ago. Instant regret of buying a coach bus lol. We own the bus, so we build the bus.
87manche said:
where's mt4runners photoshop of the camper on the 5 ton chassis?

but seriously, how far do you intend to take a bus offroad? I get why they did it in iceland, cause all the flotation you can get, but that's still flat.​
Not getting that crazy, but rarely does anything stop from trying. Can't help it.

DNL2 said:
Aren't HEMTTs too wide to drive on a public road without an oversize permit? Still the best idea.​
Pretty sure they're all within the federal limit. The weight on the other hand probably requires special licensing. Don't think they're up to today's highway speed limits, let alone what speed most people actually drive at. If the price were just right, I could likely get a mutual agreement between my wife and I to go get one and start on it right away.
 
gavan said,
JNHEscher said:
x200 I already looked them up a few months ago. Instant regret of buying a coach bus lol. We own the bus, so we build the bus.​
Find a damaged or partially dissembled one. I will almost guarantee you after you price out buying 4 axles, 8 tires and rims, a giant transfer case, driveshafts, et al, you will be huge amounts of money ahead. Plus all the geometry of 2 axle steering and such is already figured out.

Cut the bus back as much as you need to to mount 4 gigantic axles, get some giant jacks, put the bus hull on the hemtt frame, done like dinner.

Don’t forget the over height permits and get ready to be accosted by literally everyone when you fill it up with diesel.

Done like dinner!:flipoff2::flipoff2:
 
gavan said:
Find a damaged or partially dissembled one. I will almost guarantee you after you price out buying 4 axles, 8 tires and rims, a giant transfer case, driveshafts, et al, you will be huge amounts of money ahead. Plus all the geometry of 2 axle steering and such is already figured out.

Cut the bus back as much as you need to to mount 4 gigantic axles, get some giant jacks, put the bus hull on the hemtt frame, done like dinner.

Don’t forget the over height permits and get ready to be accosted by literally everyone when you fill it up with diesel.

Done like dinner!:flipoff2::flipoff2:
Hate to be this guy, but you might have to throw me a bone on this one. I don't know where you guys are finding these for under $10k or damaged units for less. I always R&D the crap out of everything myself before asking to be spoon-fed. Scratching my head on it at the moment.

If we were to find an 8x8, I would absolutely cannibalize it for the bus. Suspension geometry is one of my favorite things to lay out, so no worries if I have to change any. The steering arms on AT4000's make for an easy Ackerman angle change, for example.

Besides pricing, I suspect we would have some trouble getting such a beast relocated if it is not drivable. At least not without spending a few thousand on the tow bill. I'm all ears and eyes, though. This would be too cool to shrug off.
 
350TacoZilla said,

Man I could swear I already brought this up but I cant find it if I did. For axles what about FMTV meritor axles? They have standard 10 lug stud pilot bolt pattern so you have 20-22.5 wheel options, they are face load so they probably would package better than a rockwell 5 ton setup. Big deal for me would be they are axles with civilian commercial parts availability and could be had with drum or disk brakes. Nab a set from a 6x6 so you have your 3 driven axles and your halfway there.
 
350TacoZilla said:
Man I could swear I already brought this up but I cant find it if I did. For axles what about FMTV meritor axles? They have standard 10 lug stud pilot bolt pattern so you have 20-22.5 wheel options, they are face load so they probably would package better than a rockwell 5 ton setup. Big deal for me would be they are axles with civilian commercial parts availability and could be had with drum or disk brakes. Nab a set from a 6x6 so you have your 3 driven axles and your halfway there.​
I don't remember either. I think you chimed in on the thread at some point though.

Browsed the FMTVs on govplanet. Excellent prices and available in numerous states. I'm looking for three steer axles and the FMTV appears to be one steer and two rigid. Unsure on the WMS to WMS specs on them. I have the drawing on hand from a company ready make us the wheels to fit the AxleTechs if we go that route. Wheel prices are about the same as what's on the shelf at most other online retailers. New wheels are necessity anyway as the PO put 315/80's on rusted(very pitted) 8.25" wheels - another surprise that blew us away with the fact that I drove this bus from Dallas to the San Luis Valley with nothing more than an overheat stop.

We're headed to OKC again in six days. I'm going to give the Jay guy a call to see what he tells me as far as axle inventory and pricing. If it sounds good, I may push for a Uhaul utility trailer and drag them home.
 
Facebook might pay off. Found an axle group that led me to a couple guys with Axletech's in Denver. $4k for two wide steers. I need one for the front. Not sure I can convince my wife to make the purchase, so I'll see about selling the lithium batteries and all my Toyota stuff asap to pull together the cash. I want to swap the front axle first and a wide AT4K is the ticket.
 
vetteboy79 said:
How are you planning on driving the front axle?​
Been throwing a few ideas around. All three will be driven by the same powerplant or same type of powerplant.

I haven't really been able to pin down which of the Axletech transfer cases are in the packages listed for sale on eBay and such. Still, it looks like I could use those to couple the axles and run a driveshaft through the lower portion of the center chase. That area of the chase has not yet been designated for anything and has ample room for and Axletech driveshaft. Albeit stupid long and made as multi-piece, it would work.

Another is to go electric. Not battery electric, as that would easily cost more than a couple hundred grand in batteries to move an enormous amount of weight a short distance. More like pull the Allison trans and bolt up one of the usual generators found on an 8V92 to power the motors just like a traction motor setup. I was research motors and controls quite a bit a while back. With all this EV stuff escalating, drive motors are freakin' awesome now. TM4 has motors that output just as much as our Detroit and weigh 25% of the motor and trans combo. It's a thought. BEV would be cool because of the regen braking, but too costly. I've been watching manufacturers like Protera. They're stating MPG equivalents of 25, but I know their fuselages are composite.

For now, the front axle would be the first to get swapped and I will take the sun gears out of the planetary hubs so it can freewheel.
 
[486] said,
NHEscher said:
Another is to go electric. Not battery electric, as that would easily cost more than a couple hundred grand in batteries to move an enormous amount of weight a short distance. More like pull the Allison trans and bolt up one of the usual generators found on an 8V92 to power the motors just like a traction motor setup.​
I will admit to looking at 600 amp brushed welders with this sort of idea in mind.
They normally run at like 30 volts, but I'd bet on them doing okay at a hundred or more volts, in order to get a little more HP moving through.
Caveman controls, with the engine being throttled to load (continuous speed governor, adjusted to higher speed when EGTs are getting high) and the "drive coupling" controlled through varying field current to the generator side. Motor leads just wired straight to the generator output brushes.

Obviously never actually got anywhere, but thought about it.
 
[486] said:
I will admit to looking at 600 amp brushed welders with this sort of idea in mind.
They normally run at like 30 volts, but I'd bet on them doing okay at a hundred or more volts, in order to get a little more HP moving through.
Caveman controls, with the engine being throttled to load (continuous speed governor, adjusted to higher speed when EGTs are getting high) and the "drive coupling" controlled through varying field current to the generator side. Motor leads just wired straight to the generator output brushes.

Obviously never actually got anywhere, but thought about it.​
I put some really big grins on a few faces while discussing the traction motor idea with some people a while back. AC motors and their inverter controllers have gotten really good with incredible efficiency. Torque vectoring between axles would be too cool. Run one motor during cruising, switch to FWD in the city, run all three for major traction, etc. I might be able to do something like this with t-cases too, but I need to research them more before I know for sure.
 
[486] said,

That's certainly the way to do it, when you start introducing VFDs it's trivial to do shit like electronically controlling the engine's governor lever based on the input of a thermocouple in the exhaust

I was just thinking down the road of caveman tech without "fucking electronics"
 
[486] said:
That's certainly the way to do it, when you start introducing VFDs it's trivial to do shit like electronically controlling the engine's governor lever based on the input of a thermocouple in the exhaust

I was just thinking down the road of caveman tech without "fucking electronics"​
I, too, hate the pile of electronics involved. After lots of studying, the controllers coupled to the current motor designs do look to be very sturdy. Certainly not a roadside fix when any of it goes awry, though. The electronics is about my only concern that makes me sway towards t-cases.
 
jd8420 said,
JNHEscher said:
Been throwing a few ideas around. All three will be driven by the same powerplant or same type of powerplant.

I haven't really been able to pin down which of the Axletech transfer cases are in the packages listed for sale on eBay and such. Still, it looks like I could use those to couple the axles and run a driveshaft through the lower portion of the center chase. That area of the chase has not yet been designated for anything and has ample room for and Axletech driveshaft. Albeit stupid long and made as multi-piece, it would work.

Another is to go electric. Not battery electric, as that would easily cost more than a couple hundred grand in batteries to move an enormous amount of weight a short distance. More like pull the Allison trans and bolt up one of the usual generators found on an 8V92 to power the motors just like a traction motor setup. I was research motors and controls quite a bit a while back. With all this EV stuff escalating, drive motors are freakin' awesome now. TM4 has motors that output just as much as our Detroit and weigh 25% of the motor and trans combo. It's a thought. BEV would be cool because of the regen braking, but too costly. I've been watching manufacturers like Protera. They're stating MPG equivalents of 25, but I know their fuselages are composite.

For now, the front axle would be the first to get swapped and I will take the sun gears out of the planetary hubs so it can freewheel.​
The transfer case is a Fabco TC270-15.
 
Java said:
IMO electric front drive is silly..... Use a damn Tcase if you want 4x4 (or 6x6) its tried and true.​
I'd be happy with electric or gear driven. All three axles will be either or. I've gotta do some reading on the various t-cases and see what's available. I think all Axletech models are synchronized so 2wd/4wd can be shifted on the fly. What I don't know about yet is the torque split in them. My major concern is how insane the driveline binding will be with 6x6 engaged and making a sharp turn (or any turn, for that matter). No doubt that the military grade driveline components were designed for this in mind. I just don't know t-case internals yet.
 
87manche said:
you shouldn't be in locked 4wd unless you're on a loose urface anyway, so the binding shouldn't matter.​
Locked full-time FTW! :flipoff2:
Funny thing is a friend of mine does that. Runs 4wd on pavement at 80mph. Hey, it'll work until it doesn't lol.

I'm thinking more like snowy patches where all wheel traction is a necessity and you hit the occasional dry spots on pavement. Roughly twenty feet between the steer and drive axles. I'll see if I can pull some manuals on the cases.


Edit: Adding all the pertinent specs that I'm aware of that are needed for t-case selection.
Detroit 8V92TA: wiki says 1,242 lb.ft peak. I'm going with 425 horsies. Specs range between 400 and 450.
Allison HT740D: I think the torque converter ratio is 1.50:1 (correction: 1.78), first gear is 3.69:1, fourth gear is 1.00:1.
Torque at trans output flange comes to 8157.7 lb. ft.
The 8V92 can run up to around 2,500 RPM. I'm pretty sure the on-highway apps are governed to 2,100 RPM.

Peak torque and HP losses probably make the Axletech T800 the minimum if I expect it to hold up to all three axles.
 
jd8420 said,

The middle axle on a 6x6 with Axletechs has 2 air actuators. One is the differential lock and the other I ass-u-me disconnects the axle and just sends the power to the rear axle.
 
jd8420 said:
The middle axle on a 6x6 with Axletechs has 2 air actuators. One is the differential lock and the other I ass-u-me disconnects the axle and just sends the power to the rear axle.​
That'd be a tandem axle though, right? I'm going with steer axles at all three positions and don't think I've seen a steer axle with a tandem diff.
 
jd8420 said,

Yes. How are you planning on getting power to the rear axle with just using a regular steering axle? I was thinking you would probably get both the steer axle and the middle axle and cut the ends off of the steering axle and graft them into the middle axle.

It might disconnect the drive to the rear axle instead of the way I put it before. I was going to edit my post but for some reason it didn’t want to reload after I posted until just now.
 
jd8420 said:
Yes. How are you planning on getting power to the rear axle with just using a regular steering axle? I was thinking you would probably get both the steer axle and the middle axle and cut the ends off of the steering axle and graft them into the middle axle.

It might disconnect the drive to the rear axle instead of the way I put it before. I was going to edit my post but for some reason it didn’t want to reload after I posted until just now.​
All depends on the t-case functions. I'm going entirely off the AT page at the moment - https://www.axletech.com/en/products/transfer-cases
Have to figure out the coupling/decoupling stuff and how the torque split works. They mention declutching which makes me think the split works with something like a limited slip diff. Going to go through the 600 and 750 manuals. The 800 doesn't show a link for a manual. 1224 might be way more than I need.

If I have to, a t-case for each axle. If the t-cases can be shifted to work like a twin-shifter t-case like rock crawlers are built, I think I could run two t-cases - one between the two rear axles and another to transfer to power to the front axle (or both front axles if I get that crazy lol). I'll lay out dimensions once I know which t-cases would work and then figure out d-shaft stuff.


Edit: I sent another email to Inland Truck Parts asking about the Allison torque converter ratio. I've looked for an answer on this before and info was kind of inconclusive. My guesses were that the ratio is either the torque multiplication or some assembly in it that is a gearing step-down.

Playing around on grimmjeeper - I put in all the trans ratios, tire height and current diff ratio. Remembering the drive back through small-town-America, I was holding the throttle at around 80% on the highways, keeping mid 60's on the speedo. Omitting the 1.50:1 converter ratio from the calculator, 80% of a governed 2100 RPM is pretty much dead on. Multiplying the diff ratio by the converter ratio throws the highway speed off quite a bit, so this points to the converter ratio just being a factor of torque multiplication.

And now Axletech. 5.64:1 overall ratio on the narrow axle diffs and 0.80:1 highest overdriven high gear ratio in the T800 t-case drops the highway speed to 47mph at 1750rpm versus the current 64mph. I'd have to know if I can change out the planetary hub gears to better suit the highway. This is what I deemed to be a pain in ass and what the attraction to electric drive was when I was looking this over throughout last winter. Axletech does show quite a few ratios for the 4000's. I'm just not sure where to find them unless I call up Axletech and I suspect that will end up costing more than the axles themselves.

And lastly for the night, I'm wondering about the torque distribution in the t-cases. Looks like some have the option of a planetary set. I'm guessing there's a viscous coupler in there to make the 33/67 split. Too tired to go over them any more tonight and I have to be up to drive in six hours. Here's the Axletech pdf - https://www.axletech.com/at-admin/re...etterweb-3.pdf
 
02rexwi said,
JNHEscher said:
All depends on the t-case functions. I'm going entirely off the AT page at the moment - https://www.axletech.com/en/products/transfer-cases
Have to figure out the coupling/decoupling stuff and how the torque split works. They mention declutching which makes me think the split works with something like a limited slip diff. Going to go through the 600 and 750 manuals. The 800 doesn't show a link for a manual. 1224 might be way more than I need.

If I have to, a t-case for each axle. If the t-cases can be shifted to work like a twin-shifter t-case like rock crawlers are built, I think I could run two t-cases - one between the two rear axles and another to transfer to power to the front axle (or both front axles if I get that crazy lol). I'll lay out dimensions once I know which t-cases would work and then figure out d-shaft stuff.


Edit: I sent another email to Inland Truck Parts asking about the Allison torque converter ratio. I've looked for an answer on this before and info was kind of inconclusive. My guesses were that the ratio is either the torque multiplication or some assembly in it that is a gearing step-down.

Playing around on grimmjeeper - I put in all the trans ratios, tire height and current diff ratio. Remembering the drive back through small-town-America, I was holding the throttle at around 80% on the highways, keeping mid 60's on the speedo. Omitting the 1.50:1 converter ratio from the calculator, 80% of a governed 2100 RPM is pretty much dead on. Multiplying the diff ratio by the converter ratio throws the highway speed off quite a bit, so this points to the converter ratio just being a factor of torque multiplication.

And now Axletech. 5.64:1 overall ratio on the narrow axle diffs and 0.80:1 highest overdriven high gear ratio in the T800 t-case drops the highway speed to 47mph at 1750rpm versus the current 64mph. I'd have to know if I can change out the planetary hub gears to better suit the highway. This is what I deemed to be a pain in ass and what the attraction to electric drive was when I was looking this over throughout last winter. Axletech does show quite a few ratios for the 4000's. I'm just not sure where to find them unless I call up Axletech and I suspect that will end up costing more than the axles themselves.

And lastly for the night, I'm wondering about the torque distribution in the t-cases. Looks like some have the option of a planetary set. I'm guessing there's a viscous coupler in there to make the 33/67 split. Too tired to go over them any more tonight and I have to be up to drive in six hours. Here's the Axletech pdf - https://www.axletech.com/at-admin/re...etterweb-3.pdf
I'm going to try to answer the questions I think you're asking, but it's unclear to me exactly what you're asking.

Question: What is the torque converter ratio
Answer: The published "torque converter ratio" you're asking about is probably the stall ratio. This is the ratio at which the torque from the engine is multiplied when the converter is stalled (such as going up a steep grade). There is no gearing involved in this ratio, it is simply a way of the torque converter multiplying the torque of the engine.

Question: How to get power to every axle in a 6x6 setup
Answer: By far the most conventional driveline layout involves an engine bolted to a transmission. The transmission connected to a transfer case by a driveline.

This transfer case usually has some sort of differential for on-road operation. The "center differential" in the transfer case can be locked out in some models to lock the output of the front and rear output together.
The torque split of the differential in most heavy duty transfer cases is made by either a 50/50 bevel gear differential (like an open differential in a truck), or by a planetary gearset for torque proportioning between the two output shafts; with a planetary differential you can get varying amounts of torque proportioning based on the size of the gears, but typically ratios are around 33/66 split. In the case of a 6x6 truck with a transfer case between the first and second axle the front axle would get 33% torque and the rear two axles would get 66% of the torque coming out of the transfer case, then the front tandem axle in the rear would have a 50/50 bevel gear differential which splits torque equally between the two rear tandem axles. In theory that means every axle gets equal torque.

After the transfer case there is an output to one or more front axles and one or more rear axles. If the output is going to more than 1 axle in either direction the axle will typically have a differential in it which allows differential speed to the next axle in line. In most cases this differential can be locked. The two differential lock actuators on a "tandem axle" are for the two internal differentials. One splits the output from the axle it's in and the next axle in line. The other actuator is for the side-to-side differential lock.
 
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