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Long Travel T100

ShitBoxSam , what's you're intended use? Are you just wanting a fun truck to bomb around in or trying to take this thing rock crawling? Locked or open front?

If you're not rock crawling, I wouldn't over think it too much, your posted method looks pretty good. I'd give it a shot, make sure the length works, and plan to order new ones.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
ShitBoxSam , what's you're intended use? Are you just wanting a fun truck to bomb around in or trying to take this thing rock crawling? Locked or open front?

If you're not rock crawling, I wouldn't over think it too much, your posted method looks pretty good. I'd give it a shot, make sure the length works, and plan to order new ones.
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I’m up in B.C. so no utah rocks or cali desert running, but lots of bush road bombing. front diff is staying open, I wheel stuff like the whipsaw but haven’t done too much harder or gnarlier than that.

Thanks and yeah I think i’m happy to just try and see how she goes and plan something more serious in the future.
 
ShitBoxSam said:
I’m up in B.C. so no utah rocks or cali desert running, but lots of bush road bombing. front diff is staying open, I wheel stuff like the whipsaw but haven’t done too much harder or gnarlier than that.

Thanks and yeah I think i’m happy to just try and see how she goes and plan something more serious in the future.
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I ran 35s and an open diff in a 90 4runner, (same parts basically) for a few years and the only thing I broke was a spider gear. I think keeping it open helps keep things alive unless you're absolutely beating on it. Ie: tires off the ground and landing on the throttle.

If it were me, I'd get a stash of regular ifs pick up/4runner cv's and extend 3 of them.
 
ShitBoxSam said:
Definitely plan on deavers in the future, interesting thing about the t100 is the rear shackle mount is actually frenched into the center of the frame stock. I’ve never seen the design on any other toyotas.
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This photo of the TC 9” shackles has them mounted exactly the same as a T100 stock shackle mount. All Toyota did was give the t100 4.5” shackles for this center frame mount as opposed to the 3.5” (iirc) shackles that came mounted under the frame normally on most other yota pickups. Always thought it was strange and never understood why
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The desert and prerun Toyotas usually run the shackle on top of the frame for extra length.

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Tech Tim said:
The desert and prerun Toyotas usually run the shackle on top of the frame for extra length.

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I think with the terrain I wheel in, losing the ground clearance from going leaf under wouldn’t be worth the extra uptravel gained. And with the stock toyota t100 shackle mount being in the frame, an above frame mount would only really be an inch and a half or so higher (although placing it wherever works best for the shackle angle would be an advantage of relocating).
 
ShitBoxSam said:
If I don’t go the extending and welding route it would be interesting to see whether getting custom shafts made from dutchman or branik would be cheaper or more expensive than your way of buying some 930 cv’s and over the counter shafts.

When you say chamfer and weld how are you keeping them straight? I get it would be much better to have a second pair of cv’s and cut them as well so it’s only one welded joint, but either way tack while in a piece of angle and then weld on the lathe? I was planning on whatever way I do it I will peen and dial in as straight as possible in the lathe.
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I used to have a fixture for such things. It was 2 V blocks stuck on an I beam. You could get all the way around the shaft without spinning it.

I have just clamped them in angle iron also. After they are tacked well, if you have a rotory positioner, that makes for more even heat distribution and less warping.

Either way they will all require a trip to the press. Even if you make 4340 ones they need the be straightened after HT.
 
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8” long between bolt centers, 1.5 wide x 3/8 thick flat bar. Should I run a cross brace?

I’m thinking try them out like this, that way I can take them off and re drill to adjust height/shackle angle and add cross brace then if needed. Bad idea to even try running them without ?
 
Made some greasable shackle bolts after work today
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Man that would have sucked to do without a lathe and a drill centered on v-blocks
 
YotaAtieToo said:
You planning on running 8" shackles on stock springs?
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I know it will be goofy but yes for now, i do actually think stock t100 leaf packs are held back by the short shackle. But my plan is do weld on front hangers at the right distance for 63’s too. 63’s actually work out with stock t100 shackle position so once I have front hangers on as well as the new shackles, then 63’s will be a bolt on affair once I go to pick n pull next.

Some Deaver F67’s are what I really want but gonna need some more overtime to afford those
 
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Anyone have tips for getting LCA bolts out? i’ve got them blasted with moveit and i’ll try again tomorrow, but they are so seized in the bushing. I also can’t get my impact in between the arm to try to spin it in the bushing so I might get a different one from work and try to get it spinning. Maybe a bigger hammer. Any tricks are appreciated
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I have had a few T100s. They are awesome trucks. I always wanted to narrow the front control arm mounts to regular truck/4runner width and use long travel control arms from TC or blazeland to bring it badk out to T100 width.

What are you doing to upgrade the idler arm?
 
DMG said:
I have had a few T100s. They are awesome trucks. I always wanted to narrow the front control arm mounts to regular truck/4runner width and use long travel control arms from TC or blazeland to bring it badk out to T100 width.

What are you doing to upgrade the idler arm?
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Narrowing them down to pickup width and using t100 axles would be very sweet, but I imagine the inner fender and firewall would need a lot of sledgehammer persuasion to be able to steer at bump.

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BlazeN8 has some great write ups on idler arm braces so I will either copy his design or just get a TC one
 
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DMG said:
I always wanted to narrow the front control arm mounts to regular truck/4runner width and use long travel control arms from TC or blazeland to bring it badk out to T100 width.
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That's pretty much what we did on the one above. The upper arms get interesting to make them clear the frame on droop. Overall it was only 2" wider per side but the arms were 5.5" longer.
 
bdkw1 said:
That's pretty much what we did on the one above. The upper arms get interesting to make them clear the frame on droop. Overall it was only 2" wider per side but the arms were 5.5" longer.
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I can see how that would be a problem, it looks like those upper mounts are way inside the frame and on the drivers side the steering shaft has got to be right in the way of the upper arm. You have any more pictures of how that's all laid out?
 
SLOWPOKE693 said:
I can see how that would be a problem, it looks like those upper mounts are way inside the frame and on the drivers side the steering shaft has got to be right in the way of the upper arm. You have any more pictures of how that's all laid out?
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Sad thing is, every time I look at that thing I want to cut it all off and redo it. It has worked flawlessly for 20 years now, but it could be better with some things that have come along since then.

Edit, I made the spindles taller to get the upper arm mounts a little further away from the frame.
 
ShitBoxSam said:
Narrowing them down to pickup width and using t100 axles would be very sweet, but I imagine the inner fender and firewall would need a lot of sledgehammer persuasion to be able to steer at bump.
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True. If you are building your own arms you could push the tire forward a couple inches. I ran 285s with some rubbing.
 
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Cut in half, drilled and reamed my cv axle shafts. Machined some center section extensions to .002-.003 tight to the reamed holes and heat shrunk them in there. Running out .002 right now which is nice, but going to weld them up and then straighten in the press tomorrow.

Not a ton of confidence but who knows can’t hurt to try!
 
ShitBoxSam said:
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Cut in half, drilled and reamed my cv axle shafts. Machined some center section extensions to .002-.003 tight to the reamed holes and heat shrunk them in there. Running out .002 right now which is nice, but going to weld them up and then straighten in the press tomorrow.

Not a ton of confidence but who knows can’t hurt to try!
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I bet you break lots of other Toyota parts before those things ever fail on you. I wouldn't worry to much about it with what you plan on doing
 
ShitBoxSam said:
I know it will be goofy but yes for now, i do actually think stock t100 leaf packs are held back by the short shackle. But my plan is do weld on front hangers at the right distance for 63’s too. 63’s actually work out with stock t100 shackle position so once I have front hangers on as well as the new shackles, then 63’s will be a bolt on affair once I go to pick n pull next.

Some Deaver F67’s are what I really want but gonna need some more overtime to afford those
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I got mine used off race desert for like 400 bucks. That's your best place to find used prerunner stuff
 
Running out 10 thou after welding. Got it down to within one and i’m thinking that’s plenty straight for this kind of thing.
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bdkw1 said:
What material?
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I used a ground and polished 4140 that is through hardened. The guys at the shop thought that would be best for this
 
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Common Shackle setup for Deavers on Toyota is a 12" Shackle with pivot above frame. Also through frame a 9" shackle works BUT it doesn't allow as much travel usually.
 
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