Long Travel T100

TTMotorsports said:
It works BUT my experience is the end of the lead will hit the bottom of frame under full compression. Did you break down leaf pack and cycle fully to confirm everything clears correctl
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I did. Hours on the phone with TC and Matt helton and we all agreed it was the best setup for my truck. Here is a good formula to follow that TC sent me
 

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Well she’s all bolted up.
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Going to the shop for alignment next week. Next is to find a new set of 33’s as 3 out of 4 that I had in storage for this truck aren’t holding air anymore ffs. Also thinking about building a bumper, probably something simple and high clearance (since I actually ripped the stock one off my old t100, they hang pretty low) and maybe some light bar mounts. Might beef it up and add a winch plate later or add a receiver hitch for a hitch mounted winch.

Thinking something like this
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The t100 has ~3” frame horns sticking out past the front crossmember with nothing attached to them. This truck with the 2wd solo kit cut them off and has the bumper mounted where they sit. Any reason cutting them off is a bad idea?
 
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Something I liked to do on old Toy's was to split a piece of 2" tube and weld it on the front of the cross member. They tend to taco pretty easily if you tap something with them. Plus covering up all those holes keeps a lot of crap out of there.
 
bdkw1 said:
Something I liked to do on old Toy's was to split a piece of 2" tube and weld it on the front of the cross member. They tend to taco pretty easily if you tap something with them. Plus covering up all those holes keeps a lot of crap out of there.
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Definitely going to do this! That’s smart and I hate fishing mud out of those holes
 
bdkw1 said:
Something I liked to do on old Toy's was to split a piece of 2" tube and weld it on the front of the cross member. What I should have done is cut the cross member out and replaced it with 2x2 or 2x3 though. They tend to taco pretty easily if you tap something with them. Plus covering up all those holes keeps a lot of crap out of there.
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Fify:flipoff2:

Just did this on my 81, so much better than scabbing the stock tin.
 
bdkw1 said:
Something I liked to do on old Toy's was to split a piece of 2" tube and weld it on the front of the cross member. They tend to taco pretty easily if you tap something with them. Plus covering up all those holes keeps a lot of crap out of there.
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This is so much more work than using an FRORF frame plate. Not sure they make them for the t100, though
 
rockota said:
This is so much more work than using an FRORF frame plate. Not sure they make them for the t100, though
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To cut it, It takes like 5 min with a grinder or 30 sec with a plasma. Or I'm betting he has a bandsaw at work. Tube on the front offers better strength to weight ratio than a flat plate.

Cutting it out to replace is also an option but more work. I have done that also, kinda fun when you cut it in half and the frame rails spring back.
 
Well i’ve been getting out snow wheeling a bit recently, haven’t been able to test the new setup too hard but so far i’m very happy with it.
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My chain up spot is the same place the loader stops clearing the road. Surprisingly snow wheeling with my small tires on still has been great since they keep my chains out of the fenders.
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Not crazy inpressive flex shots but i’m happy with it. Rear still has more travel to go in these photos.
 
So was it worth the work? I have 2 t100s and have been thinking about LT one of them. What torsion bars are you running?
 
Pickeledpigsfeet said:
So was it worth the work? I have 2 t100s and have been thinking about LT one of them. What torsion bars are you running?
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Was definitely a lot of work, with the fabricating the a arms and axles in my case, as well as taking the factory stuff off that had been stuck on for 15 years, but in my case i have access to a machine and welding shop as well as a 4 post lift which were both huge. Honestly in my opinion it was definitely worth it though, the increased articulation and travel are game changing. When crossed up on cross ditches or putting 2 wheels down the bank into the ditch a bit to get around washouts etc I maintain traction to the fronts 10x better than before (keep in mind i’m still open open diffs). I can’t speak on any desert prerunning capabilities as I don’t have any experience with that. And another plus is i can confirm highway driving has not been affected at all. For the price blazeland is definitely worth it if you can get a hold of a kit. The one downside to the t100 is the lack of aftermarket support. not a lot of options if any for stuff like pre-made winch bumpers, sliders, even headlights etc etc.

On a different note I really want to find a 79-83 pickup. Built or not. Willing to try my hand at body work as i’m assuming that will be needed on those old first gens. So if anyone has something in BC let me know !
 
In the past month the truck started making a whurwhurwhur sound coming from the rear end. Originally I thought steady bearing because i knew it was on its way out and bushing was super worn out, so I replaced that and still same whuring sound. Since the sound is vehicle speed specific and not motor speed, and seems to be coming from the rear end I am thinking something in the diff. Although the sound started much before, i did beat on it pretty good last few weekends and go through a bit of water. the breather isn’t extended up or anything but seems to work fine. Pulled the inspection plug out and it was pretty well overfill, a decent bit wanted to drain out (Although now that I think of it the truck was probably sloped down a bit :homer:). Didn’t seem shiny, but here’s what the gear oil that came out looked like..
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Any thoughts? I’m honestly thinking i might drain it all out and refill with 3/4 full gear oil and fill the last 1/4 with that super thick lucas oil shit. As opposed to pulling the third and inspecting
 
Why the hell wouldn’t you pull the 3rd? Takes 10 minutes you lazy fuck, 20 if you’re slow.
 
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Aisin said:
Why the hell wouldn’t you pull the 3rd? Takes 10 minutes you lazy fuck, 20 if you’re slow.
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I figure i’m pulling it anyways, just thought i’d see what people thought or if anyone has had something similar before
 

Sounds a little different in person but can hear it pretty good in this video.
 
Add said:
Is one of the tires separating or out of balance?
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That is what I am starting to think, and thanks for some actual useful input. I checked all my tires for if a weight fell off and can’t find anything. Also I noticed after decent drives one of my front hubs was getting ridiculous hot so i tore into that tonight. Noticed before i even took the hub apart the brake pads were rubbing on the rotor so hard i could barely turn the wheel by hand (weird because i had 0 pull when driving) I un-seized 2 pistons in that calliper and now all is well there and doesn’t seem to heat up, but still same whirring sound occurring. Going to swap my tires for a different set something after the weekend and see if it’s the tires.
 
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So, been chasing this weird rear end noise for a long time now. Changed tires and wheels, checked wheel bearings, replaced carrier bearing, and rebuilt the rear end with all new bearings and checked backlash and all clearances and runouts. Everything within spec and had an a mechanic buddy help me set the pinion preload just to make sure i did it right. It’s been making this noise pretty loud for over 5000kms and long 4-6 hour drives at a time, and no issues or changes. Wanted to make sure I wasn’t crazy and narrowed it down to the rear for sure with a buddy riding in the box and he could clearly feel and hear it in the center of the box more than the sides. I’m stumped now. Thinking maybe a hub flange is bent or the axle is bent ? are there any common points for this on the t100 rear ends? It really sounds like it makes the sound on tire rotation as opposed to driveline. I’ve driven in 4hi with the rear driveshaft out and still makes the whump whump whump.
 
Is the whump whump going driveshaft speed or wheel speed? Bent pinion or bent axle?
 
bdkw1 said:
Is the whump whump going driveshaft speed or wheel speed? Bent pinion or bent axle?
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I’ve pulled the rear driveshaft and drove around in 4 wheel and it still does the same thing so im certain it’s wheel speed. I’m pretty sure I put a dial on the pinion flange and didn’t read any runout, and I had a good pattern between the ring gear and pinion so i don’t think it is bent, or doesn’t seem to be. I’m at the point where i’ve got to just pull the axles out and take the brakes apart and see if there’s anything I can find, it’s just weird because my friend in the bed was certain the sound was central over the diff
 
bdkw1 said:
Drum rubbing on the backing plate?
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This would be best case scenario for sure, although I have felt the drums spin by hand with the wheels off to see if I had a pad jammed up rubbing the drum and I didn’t notice anything weird. I’ll have to pull the brakes apart again to be sure. Would it be worth pulling the axles and putting them in v-blocks and checking their runout with a dial? i can’t see how they could have gotten bent inside the housing but i’ll check anything
 
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