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Loader tech in chit chat

I don't know how they compare but, I've drilled holes through hardened chrome plated mud pump push rods. We use stress proof (whatever that means) bar stock to make pins, drill those too using hss bits.
 
Diverter valve is finally working. I used a self drilling screw to ground the relay to the body under the seat (same screw that mounts the relay), ran a bigger wire to the diverter valve, black wire on the relay got power from the heater switch wire. When my nephew pulled the trigger I put a 1/2” box wrench into the magnet, and it pulled it in. He said the trigger made a sound too, like telling him it’s working. Plus the light on the diverter valve connector came on. My only reservation was the diverter and relay being grounded to opposite halves of the machine. Not sure if it has a ground strap between the two. So the loader’s ready, and the grapple is almost ready to pin on. All I need to do to the top pins is drill a hole in each. Bottom pins I don’t need to drill, I’m gonna make collar extensions. I also need to plug one of the two grease holes in the bottom pins.
 
Also had to replace a hydraulic hose in the middle of last trip, that meant a drive down to the hot valley.
 
Got a second hole in the top pins. It work hardened before getting through the second hole, had to finish it with a carbide burr.

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Another hydraulic leak yesterday, a flange hose connection on the bucket pump. I didn’t have that size o-ring, but already went half way down to Fresno and got some. Now to fix it.
 
I also drilled through the bushings for the above pins. The collars had holes, but not the bushings. I could only drill from one side because of placement of collars, and the second side walked. Now I’m going to drill a little bigger diameter to make the bolt go through easy, I don’t want to drive it in with a hammer.
 
All that’s left is the bottom pins now. Too much trouble to bring up a welder, so I’m bolting them on. I’m going to use the collar extension as a drill jig. The bushing in the collar is just temporary, to line it all up. I already flipped the pin around to give more room to get in there.


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DozerDan82 said:
Most hardened pins are only surface hard, a grinder can normally get you to the non treated metal, big dia holes can be a pain, but small ones a flat ground on can make drilling much easier.
Click to expand...
You can spot anneal them too with a torch. I've never tried to re harden afterwards though.
 
I got one hole drilled and tapped already. Not enough sun to charge the batteries, I’m at my friend’s store now charging them. Plus I’m working on setting up an air hose connection on the loader, then I can use my pneumatic drill. So far so good.
 
that's not an air/low fluid thing? like one is getting the pressure while the other has air, then once the other bottoms out the pressure goes to the other side?

i know nothing about these things
 
The fluid is going to take the path of least resistance. Since the two sides are not tied together if one has more resistance than the other one will move until it encounters more resistance. That is why one doesn't move until the other has fully cycled.

And yes, this is so you can grab uneven loads.
 
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It‘s obvious why it was leaking. It’s leaking on the inside of the seals, the other cylinder was leaking on the outside of the seals. The metal surface was too pitted and I had to replace it. This one the metal surface looks good though, that’s good news.
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Tomorrow I’ll clean up better and inspect, then gather the new parts.
 
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