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Linear actuator parking brake

You could also run an inline needle valve for a hydraulic parking brake and it can't bleed off unless your system has leaks in it. Simpler, no power required.
 
AK_F250 said:
8BE47A41-C911-4CEA-90E9-024434BD1F31.jpeg
Calipers showed up yesterday. I took a bit of a gamble on them since they were being sold “for parts only” since the seller had no way to test them. They look new and even if only one works I paid $125 shipped for the pair, which is about the going rate for a single caliper on eBay.
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Damn that's a good deal! Currently have a couple "make offers" in on ebay for those calipers 'cause I'm a cheap fawk and I want a better solution than the typical t case e brake horseshit for 'Yotas. Looking forward to what you come up with on mounting and all the little nitpick shit. Any updates as of yet?
 
AK_F250 is that specifically for the parking brake only? Or does that replace the caliper you already have on the vehicle? What is the application?
 
854xtoy said:
Damn that's a good deal! Currently have a couple "make offers" in on ebay for those calipers 'cause I'm a cheap fawk and I want a better solution than the typical t case e brake horseshit for 'Yotas. Looking forward to what you come up with on mounting and all the little nitpick shit. Any updates as of yet?
Click to expand...
No updates so far, I'm still going back and forth on doing a FF conversion so I haven't drawn up brackets.
06h3 said:
AK_F250 is that specifically for the parking brake only? Or does that replace the caliper you already have on the vehicle? What is the application?
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They're from a tesla, parking brake only.
 
AK_F250 said:
No updates so far, I'm still going back and forth on doing a FF conversion so I haven't drawn up brackets.
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I know it's kinda pricey, but the Front Range kit is a really good option if you wanna go ff. If you can scrounge up some 'Yota s.a. front axle parts on the cheap, I think worth it.
 
AK_F250 said:
No updates so far, I'm still going back and forth on doing a FF conversion so I haven't drawn up brackets.

They're from a tesla, parking brake only.
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Is is wide enough to fit a standard 14 bolt disc brake swap rotor?
 
854xtoy said:
I know it's kinda pricey, but the Front Range kit is a really good option if you wanna go ff. If you can scrounge up some 'Yota s.a. front axle parts on the cheap, I think worth it.
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Going full float on a semi float housing is fucking stupid and a good way to end up with a bent housing. There is a reason the full float housing is twice the thickness of a semi float housing. A semi float housing WAS NOT designed to support the weight of the vehicle
 
Aisin said:
Going full float on a semi float housing is fucking stupid and a good way to end up with a bent housing. There is a reason the full float housing is twice the thickness of a semi float housing. A semi float housing WAS NOT designed to support the weight of the vehicle
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Damn. Is it because the ff kit moves the wheel bearings out away from the spring perch or ?
 
With full float 100% of the weight is supported by the housing. With semi float that load is split between the housing and shafts/bearings.
 
Aisin said:
Going full float on a semi float housing is fucking stupid and a good way to end up with a bent housing. There is a reason the full float housing is twice the thickness of a semi float housing. A semi float housing WAS NOT designed to support the weight of the vehicle
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Pull your head out of your ass.

With semi float the housing still supports the load. The bearing is just inside instead of outside.
 
arse_sidewards said:
I stand by my statement.

If the housing isn't supporting the load then where are the forces on the bearing going?
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The load of the vehicle is distributed between the shaft, bearing and housing. What is so hard about that to understand?
 
Aisin said:
The load of the vehicle is distributed between the shaft, bearing and housing. What is so hard about that to understand?
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And where's the load of that bearing race going?

What's so hard about this for you to understand?
 
arse_sidewards said:
And where's the load of that bearing race going?

What's so hard about this for you to understand?
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This is what I was thinking, and I mean no disrespect to Aisin, I went out to the garage and looked at my old shafts as they still have the drum backing plates with the bearing and I'm just not understanding. I get that the shaft from the lug studs to the bearing is supporting the weight of that corner, but after that it's transferred to the backing plate mount, then to the axle tube, then the spring perch. I'm hoping I'm really not that fuckin' dense that I'm missing something other than what I originally thought about having the bearings further away from the spring perch. To me that makes most sense. No offense to anyone just wanting to understand.
 
arse_sidewards said:
Pull your head out of your ass.

With semi float the housing still supports the load. The bearing is just inside instead of outside.
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No Aisin is 100% correct. Sf the shaft supports the load and transmits it vertically at the end of the housing on the bearing. Ff puts the entire load on the end of the housing, trying to bend/twist up for a lack of better words.

I’m dealing with a ruffstuff housing so all that is a moot point on my end.
 
1Sinner said:
You could also run an inline needle valve for a hydraulic parking brake and it can't bleed off unless your system has leaks in it. Simpler, no power required.
Click to expand...
That's a line lock, and too failure prone to be reliable as parking brake. Smallest amount of bleed off and all pressure (and therefore braking) is lost.

These could be another option, especially with so many rigs that have hydro, or at least power steering.

Spring-applied-hydraulic-release brakes (SAHR). Springs put the brakes on, and hydraulic pressure compresses the spring to release brakes.

You can even release them with a simple hand pump.

The first link below is for sure a SAHR caliper. The second one I'm not 100% sure, but believe it is.






sahr90101-assy-w800.jpg


Hydraulic spring mechanisms - sliding caliper brake - Knott GmbH

Hydraulic spring mechanisms - sliding caliper brake
www.knott-trailer-shop.com www.knott-trailer-shop.com

100921-hydraulic-spring-mechanisms-sliding-caliper-brake.jpg
 
AK_F250 said:
No Aisin is 100% correct. Sf the shaft supports the load and transmits it vertically at the end of the housing on the bearing. Ff puts the entire load on the end of the housing, trying to bend/twist up for a lack of better words.

I’m dealing with a ruffstuff housing so all that is a moot point on my end.
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I agree about the load being slightly different but a 1.5" diameter axle shaft isn't going to be adding much resistance to twist over a 3ft length and the bearing is so far outboard of the link mounts or leaf spring it doesn't matter since that's where all axles bend when you don't bend them in the middle or shear a spindle.
 
Muckin_Slusher said:
That's a line lock, and too failure prone to be reliable as parking brake. Smallest amount of bleed off and all pressure (and therefore braking) is lost.

These could be another option, especially with so many rigs that have hydro, or at least power steering.

Spring-applied-hydraulic-release brakes (SAHR). Springs put the brakes on, and hydraulic pressure compresses the spring to release brakes.

You can even release them with a simple hand pump.

The first link below is for sure a SAHR caliper. The second one I'm not 100% sure, but believe it is.






sahr90101-assy-w800.jpg


Hydraulic spring mechanisms - sliding caliper brake - Knott GmbH

Hydraulic spring mechanisms - sliding caliper brake
www.knott-trailer-shop.com www.knott-trailer-shop.com

100921-hydraulic-spring-mechanisms-sliding-caliper-brake.jpg
Click to expand...
I disagree somewhat. I'm not talking about a line lock valve, but a hydraulic grade screw type needle valve. If your system is solid and properly sealed, it won't bleed off the pressure, where line locks can and do. Those are a neat caliper setup, I've not seen them before.
 
Thought I would put a link here to my electric E-brake.

irate4x4.com

Any chance this will work?

So, Hydro-dynamic was working on a liner actuator to apply the E-brake. He had a thread on here. I was hoping he would supply part numbers for me to purchase. For whatever reason, he changed his mind and went with a more conventional setup. I guess that means the water head has to do it. I have...
irate4x4.com irate4x4.com
 
I did brakes on a 2016 or so lexus suv 350 iirc, rear calipers had electric e brake, 2 pins, 12v, would be sweet on a momentary switch
 
Projectjunkie said:
I did brakes on a 2016 or so lexus suv 350 iirc, rear calipers had electric e brake, 2 pins, 12v, would be sweet on a momentary switch
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Last time I brought that up everyone had a retard circle jerk about resettable breakers wearing out as if most automatic power up/down windows aren't just a resettable breaker. :shaking:

I bought a VW caliper for a driveline brake. Still haven't gotten around to building a bracket for it. It's collecting dust on top of the transfer case it's supposed to go on.
 
mobil1syn said:
what about now?
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Nope, they got donated to the vette IRS on dad's model A project. He was looking at the $1000+ wilwood setup and I told him to give these a shot for half the price. I don't know if he has them wired up and working yet but he did go with that pantera electronics and it looks well put together.

I'm on the fence about ordering another set. The more I thought about it the wheeling here has the brakes submerged crossing creeks and river or in swamp mud constantly, and I don't know if I want to gamble on a $500 parking brake that was designed for an electric car taking a shit right off the bat.
 
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