Linear actuator parking brake

[reptillikus]

I was thinking about this last night. You could use a park switch on the column to set the parking brake. Put it in park and it applies power to set the brake. Take it out of park, and it reverses to unlock the brake. Youd need a reversing circuit, since the motor needs its power/ground reversed. Then you need something to kill the power once it reaches its full travel, in either direction. I was thinking a junkyard window-auto-down module (such as what was found in the taurus/probe) would be an easy way to do that. Then in theory youd just need a DPDT switch on the column to reverse the power to the caliper. As a failsafe you can wire in a kill switch to the circuit, which would then leave the caliper in whatever position it was in when you flip the switch.

i suppose a simpler way to do it would simply be a momentary DPDT switch on the dash and you can just press it when you want the brake set or released, but i like the idea of it being automatic in park so someone (like my wife) doesnt try to drive it with the brake set.

I really like the idea of an electric pbrake, and since i need to put new calipers on the rear of my bronco, id like to get something along these lines working, instead of el dorado calipers.

 

[crisbee1]

Drill a hole in floor, install Johnson Bar hand brake. Crawling without a clutch is lame, crawling without a Johnson Bar seems less fun. I use the hand brake pretty regular in da rocks. It's helps make Sami guys look like they have skills:rolleyes:.

Oh and with an open rear and a hand brake you can grab a spider to lock the rear for one rotation, Find an old school Truck Driver to show you how.

 

[Stephen Wilson]

One complication is that you don't want to drive the motor to the stop when releasing the brake if using a combined hydraulic/E-brake caliper, that would fully retract the piston. I suppose you could just pump up the brakes every time, but that might be pretty annoying. I believe even the separate Tesla calipers just have a timed period to release the brake, though they do have 2 separate wires for some sort of position feedback, it could be used without them.

 

[PAE]

As I recall (been many years) the Johnson (on the right side of steering column, class 8 tractor) bar only applied the trailer brakes.

I dont like the idea of a threaded rod as linkage to my np205 parking brake either and had in mind an air cylinder of the correct bore and stroke to set the parking brake and maybe another shorter cylinder to release it.

 

[reptillikus]

Been dwelling on this whole electronic park brake thing. Theres a couple different companies out there that make elec pbrake kits, including Wilwood. Most of them are expensive, and it only gets you a park brake, nothing else.
I was digging around and found a company called estopp, who make an electric conversion for traditional brakes:
https://www.estopp.com/

So since im already set up for GM calipers i could just buy new ones from ruffstuff, and use this to actuate them instead of the traditional foot pedal. Seems like an expensive way to set the brake when i can just push the floor pedal, and the el dorados can be a huge pita. If im gonna spend that kind of money on a parking brake, id rather have something that actually works reliably
.
So then i started looking at OEMs. I like the idea of the 2018-20 F150 medium duty calipers over the Tesla because its a decently sized hydraulic caliper with electric park brake built in, whereas we'd have to use the tesla caliper as a dedicated park brake. Also, because (if you can find a core) you can get remans on the caliper bracket, for $46.33 from carid:
https://www.carid.com/centric/remanu...141-65558.html

of course you still need the actuator, and pads. The actuator costs more than the caliper, no surprise there:
https://www.carid.com/ford-oe/rear-p...l3z2b712b.html

Now of course we still need to make them work. As Stephen Wilson pointed out, you cant just wire the caliper to run, it needs to stop once clamped, and it needs to retract but only a little. So we need a current limiting circuit to set the brake, and (arguably) a momentary to release it. I dont have an electronics degree or anything so building a controller myself is out. But then i found this:
https://www.e-motioninc.com/12V_Actu...c200-12vdc.htm

Its a 12v actuator, auto reversing, and you can set & adjust a current limiting stop, or use a physical limit switch. I think this would handle it. Itll accept either momentary or continuous input to operate the motor. I was originally thinking DPDT momentary switch on dash, but i think it would be possible to use method 2 (2 button momentary) to fully automate it thru the steering column, so that itll set the brake when you put it in park, and release as soon as you shift out of it.

Link to PDF instruction sheet:
https://www.e-motioninc.com/v/vspfil...ide%202017.pdf

Thoughts? While this seems feasible, i cant decide if its actually a good idea or not for a 'wheeler.

 

[Stephen Wilson]

I like the idea, but I don't like the fact you need 2 of those controllers, so between that and calipers you're already at $500. Not necessarily a deal breaker, but I would like a slightly cheaper, neater solution. You can get calipers on Ebay for around $100 each.

 

[reptillikus]

Yeah I know, that part kinda sucks. Its an expensive solution to a problem Id be creating for myself. I still have time as I doubt I'll get to brakes before October, so I'm going to keep digging around to see what else I can come up with.

 

[ParadisePWoffrd]

Electric parking brake is fairly common these days in the hot rod world. Here is an example: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speed...hoCu7AQAvD_BwE.

 

[Stephen Wilson]

I'm aware of that style, but you still need to use a cable operated parking brake. I was was looking to get away from that style altogether, hopefully with something that's stronger.

 

[Toreadorranger]

I was thinking on this idea. I know the 4.0 way would be to have the feedback circuit to stop the caliper travel when it reached the proper amperage. Any reason we couldn't wire one up "the dumb" way. Run a ammeter and toggle switch? You could run a manual interrupter switch to prevent operation of the "system" when it is in use to prevent accidently disengaging or engaging it. Then use the ammeter to know when to stop applying voltage via a manual toggle. This would negate the issue with having to use a controller and would allow adjustability in the clamping force, like you would get with a manual level or foot operated cable brake.

 

[arse_sidewards]

Run a ammeter and toggle switch? You could run a manual interrupter switch to prevent operation of the "system" when it is in use to prevent accidently disengaging or engaging it. Then use the ammeter to know when to stop applying voltage via a manual toggle. This would negate the issue with having to use a controller and would allow adjustability in the clamping force, like you would get with a manual level or foot operated cable brake.

That is still ludicrously over complicated.

Momentary switch plus a circuit breaker . Run it until the breaker pops out. When the breaker pops out that's your safety to prevent disengaging the brake (since you'd need to use the momentary switch to power it back out the other way).

 

[Toreadorranger]

That is still ludicrously over complicated.

Momentary switch plus a circuit breaker . Run it until the breaker pops out. When the breaker pops out that's your safety to prevent disengaging the brake (since you'd need to use the momentary switch to power it back out the other way).

Breakers aren't designed to be operated like a switch. They are a fail safe. They can also degrade over time with constant use. Not a great idea to use one as an integral part of the circuit aside from its normal overcurrent protection.

 

[arse_sidewards]

Breakers aren't designed to be operated like a switch. They are a fail safe. They can also degrade over time with constant use. Not a great idea to use one as an integral part of the circuit aside from its normal overcurrent protection.

If you build the rest of the circuit right it should be fine for a very long time. The breaker will trip at the rated load initially but will eventually degrade and trip a little easier but should level off. If everything is sized right it should be just about perfect.

 

[Toreadorranger]

If you build the rest of the circuit right it should be fine for a very long time. The breaker will trip at the rated load initially but will eventually degrade and trip a little easier but should level off. If everything is sized right it should be just about perfect.

I guess I don't see this as a superior to 2 switches and a meter. Nor do I think 2 switches and a meter is complicated. especially when one switch is just to prevent accidental operation of the system.

 

[AK_F250]

Breakers aren't designed to be operated like a switch. They are a fail safe. They can also degrade over time with constant use. Not a great idea to use one as an integral part of the circuit aside from its normal overcurrent protection.

I mentioned it earlier, but something like this might solve that problem.

I don't know what kind of amps those motors are pulling, but it seems like once the pad made contact it would be a rapid spike, so I don't know how accurate you could be with a meter without overloading something.

 

[BSInc.]

I had an E-stopp in my CJ for years. worked well, but had issues with snow and water getting in it. It managed to last 4 or so years. It's cable operated like the speedway ones mentioned above. I prefer just having a button as I have too many dam levers and crap already. (twin sticks, crawl box, 4 speed, etc)
Wilwood makes and really nice electric operated unit, but at around $1000 for a set of calipers and controller, I don't see a lot of us springing the cash to bolt it to a $1500 POS just to pass an inspection. It would be interesting to scoop a set of factory e-brake calipers and see if you could buy the electronics package from Wilwood for the current sensor shut off and reversing controls.

https://www.wilwood.com/Calipers/Cal...arking%20Brake

https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...illocation=int

 

[HYDRODYNAMIC]

Thinking about the air brake chamber, the components were not going to be simple enough due to forces being off. So change of plans.
Going to see how one of these fits. Simple and only custom part will be the cable from the handle to the stock F250 axle cables that already have the balancer adapter. Looks like places that make brake cables can make whatever needed by following the PDF chart attached under the last picture.

 

[Provience]

https://www.wilwood.com/Calipers/Cal...arking%20Brake

not linear actuated, but these look dope. sure, not junkyard cheap, but new parts and should be easy to use

https://www.wilwood.com/PDF/DataSheets/ds1353.pdf

data sheet

 

[mobil1syn]

The air pods I mentioned earlier will generate too much pull so they are out.

https://www.mcmaster.com/6498K654/

why not something like this mounted on the axle to a toyota style ebrake? the only have one ebrake cable going to the axle and some sort of latching mechanism

or stick one of these on each wheel with a little cable. air to open over spring, the you could lock a wheel for digs

https://www.mcmaster.com/6498K097/

 

[AK_F250]

Forgot to post this up when I found it. They make 3 different setups for tesla calipers for around $250.

Tesla Brembo electric parking switch controller (pantera-electronics.com)

 

[Muckin_Slusher]

Are line-locks not an option? Stomp the brake pedal, close the valve and bingo, service brakes applied.

Obviously they may bleed down over time, but to lock your wheels for winching duty, it should suffice.

On my 2004 f150 I jam my socket set tool box between the seat and either move the electric adjustable pedals backward or the electric seat forwards to apply service brakes for winching duty.

 

[HYDRODYNAMIC]

Looks like many have different ideas of how an emergency brake should work: I want the E/parking brake to do all 3
Stops the vehicle if the hydraulics fail
Holds the vehicle when parked if the drivetrain fails
Holds the vehicle for an indefinite time, can not leak down either air or fluid loss, has a mechanical hold

I do not want to take chances of a hydraulic line lock leaking down or an air actuated force leaking down and having the vehicle roll away. I would always have that feeling that I was going to return to the vehicle that had been parked only to see that it had leaked down and free wheeled all the way down the hill and jumped off the cliff and into the side of the canyon wall.

 

[mobil1syn]

I do not want to take chances of a hydraulic line lock leaking down or an air actuated force leaking down and having the vehicle roll away. I would always have that feeling that I was going to return to the vehicle that had been parked only to see that it had leaked down and free wheeled all the way down the hill and jumped off the cliff and into the side of the canyon wall.

thats why the mcmaster cylinder i linked to has a spring return

 

[HYDRODYNAMIC]

thats why the mcmaster cylinder i linked to has a spring return

Those return springs are just enough force to get the rod back. You can usually pull them out by hand. Not near the 200LBS needed to hold the parking brake. I have thought about using a tie rod cylinder and putting a spring in it but then realized it would probably shoot out and kill me.

 

[87manche]

we did this on a m416 trailer with a 12v actuator with built in limit switches.
pretty easy.
works fine.
basically just replaced it's hand lever with actuator.

 

[AK_F250]

I bit the bullet and ordered a pair of tesla calipers for $125 on ebay. I'll update once I actually get them installed on the axle and under the rig.

 

[Grendel]

Following a long here.

I've used the e-stopp before, not a fan.

 

[HYDRODYNAMIC]

https://irate4x4.com/filedata/fetch?id=279796

Not sure I want to automate the hand lever but it is an option. The hand lever creates a way to adjust the tension with the screw handle. It also has the cam over to hold it indefinitely. The travel angle is near 90* which would be really easy to put a air cylinder on. No special requirements on the cylinder to hold the tension and can be manual overridden if air system fails. The handle and the bracket is steel so it would be very easy to weld on clevis mounts.

It would be just as easy to attach a 12V linear actuator to the hand lever. The reasoning for the hand lever and linear actuator is the actuator is strong at pushing but not tension. The hand lever once cammed over is a guaranteed hold.

 

[AK_F250]

I just emailed the pantera folks to order their controller and push button switch, we'll see how that goes.

 

[AK_F250]

Calipers showed up yesterday. I took a bit of a gamble on them since they were being sold “for parts only” since the seller had no way to test them. They look new and even if only one works I paid $125 shipped for the pair, which is about the going rate for a single caliper on eBay.