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Light vs. Heavy weight wheeling rigs

Nah, I'd like to try the 350s or a set of stickies.



Just depends on driver and terrain. West coast wheeling can be pretty brutal. Most also don't want to be that guy who makes a bunch of people wait while he tip toes through an obstical to avoid scratching something.

Also, like Wilson mentioned, much under 4500 lbs for a 4.0 powered LJ will be about impossible.

Also, how often is everyone wheeling their rig with nothing in it an no passengers?
Every time I go, lol
 
I don't have any non-blingy at the moment but shoot me a pm so I remember.

Could I interest you in a set of RT320's

20210808_220612.jpg
How tall are those? I’m wanting to go away from the 35 Kevlars on my sami
 
OBS Ford Alcoa's. Look back a few posts for pics.

I tried real hard to keep the unsprung weight down on this build. Between brakes, hubs and rims, I dropped about 30# off a corner. Going to aluminum diffs in the beams saved about 15# an end. Could have saved more with spools, but being steerable won out.

Build link?

Also, how close are the UTV tires mounted vs advertised?
 
OBS Ford Alcoa's. Look back a few posts for pics.

I tried real hard to keep the unsprung weight down on this build. Between brakes, hubs and rims, I dropped about 30# off a corner. Going to aluminum diffs in the beams saved about 15# an end. Could have saved more with spools, but being steerable won out.
No, what rig are they going on.
 
BFG KM3? 35x10.5x15 on a 15x7 Ford Alcoa forged wheel.

20210410_143900.jpg



Since this rig is going to be light, I put the rims in the mill and took off a couple more pounds.
Where thee heck did you find a 10.50 x 15 version of them?
Not listed this year so I had to go 12.50x15...
 
I bet you do a lot of hardcore offroading in Rhode Island.
He's in a Jeep club which is why he only sees Jeeps :laughing:
Jeep is a lifestyle brand like Harley and Yeti. You don’t have to make a decent product if you have great marketing.
And Toyota. And Subaru. And Tesla.
There's more going on than that though - airing up reduces the conformability of the tyre so small obstacles overload the contact patch and the tire slips. The key for light cars is narrow tyres with high void in slippery conditions. Swapping from a 35 12.5 to a 33 10.5 is going in the right direction for sure, but I don't think a BFG has enough void to really work on a light car in slippery conditions - ground pressure is still too low. In my local conditions, a light Samurai on something like a 9/34 swamper or a 32X9.5 simex centipede will outdrive my car on a 35 13.5 krawler due to higher ground pressure alone when it's slippery. Even though they're ~400lb lighter, the higher void, narrower tyre provides higher ground pressure so they get traction where I can't. In summer I have ad advantage with more rubber and a bigger tire to span obstacles and generate (dry) traction, so my heavier weight isn't a disadvantage.
All I know is my shitboxes do snowy hill climbs way better with 15psi in the tires than they do with 40. More than once I've had to air other people's shit down to get it out of my driveway and then air it back up once it's in the street.
Jeep fanatics have a superiority complex
Only because we've done a good job kicking all the softroader Toyota swine out of this forum. Those morons are something else.
 
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I generally try to go as light as I can. The heavy weights are awesome in a jam; like dead sticking a rig out of fordyce. For actual wheeling, I shave everything I can. This one was 2750 as pictured, with (5) 42’s, tools (no spares), 15 gallons of ‘pane, built 60 (arb), built 14 bolt (arb). Gravity was the weak link as long as I owned it, and I sold it stripped of axles.

I just wanted to stir the pot and call bullshit on this weight. :stirthepot:
 
There's a few holdouts who don't get the message but this place is nowhere near as bad as the rest of the internet.
Some of us have toyotas and jeeps so we can make an accurate comparison. Others just talk out of their Arse
 
Some of us have toyotas and jeeps so we can make an accurate comparison. Others just talk out of their Arse
Theres a reason I don't own any Toyotas anymore and trust me it wasn't because the buyers are the kind of people I want to deal with. :flipoff2:
 
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Theres a reason I don't own any Toyotas anymore and trust me it wasn't because the buyers are the kind of people I want to deal with. :flipoff2:
It’s because you like weird old minivans and vehicular suffering, isn’t it? :flipoff2:
 
Weight is always important in motorsports and many people don't consider it until they are 3 tons+ and looking at motor swaps to get some performance back. Where the weight is is also important. HIgh, low, front, back all make a difference in how a vehicle will wheel. I put my jeep on a diet a couple years ago and it totally changed the way it drove and wheeled. I knocked about 800 pounds off it, with most of it being high weight in the rear. Its no speed demon but is much better on the highway and running up steep grades. Looking back I could have made some other choices on new components that would have saved me 200-300 more pounds but I will live with what it is and it just works great right now.
 
Where thee heck did you find a 10.50 x 15 version of them?
Not listed this year so I had to go 12.50x15...
It's the SxS version

 
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Hmmm
Only list the 11r now, figured ,another prk perk!

edit
sxs I never registered them:laughing:
braindead today
lucky dawg
 
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Uh, no. Maybe in Florida :flipoff2:

Who said they're holding up to JK's on 37s stock?

Chromo axles, lower gears and some HD ball joints is where I would start.

I beg to differ...... I threw a spacer lift, tube flares and 37s on my wifes JKUR when we first bought it and then proceeded to beat the piss out of it at several offroad parks in Texas and Arkansas. Zero axle problems. I'm not talking about trail riding either. Thing was bashed from front to rear underneath, stock skids pushed up several inches, frame gouged up and several lugs torn off the tires from my heavy right foot, and those axles were fine.

They now have aftermarket ball joints, cromo shafts and trusses F&R, but only because I switched to 40s. Still zero axle problems and the 40s are almost 2yrs old.

These new Rubi axles are nothing like the 44s that came in TJs, they are superior in every way.
 
OBS Ford Alcoa's. Look back a few posts for pics.

I tried real hard to keep the unsprung weight down on this build. Between brakes, hubs and rims, I dropped about 30# off a corner. Going to aluminum diffs in the beams saved about 15# an end. Could have saved more with spools, but being steerable won out.


Also, WTF are you building and where is the thread posted so I can read about it? You can't come in here dropping pics and hints and then leave us hanging...... Not cool!
 
Everybody would get a lightweight rig, problem is they are expensive.
 
I beg to differ...... I threw a spacer lift, tube flares and 37s on my wifes JKUR when we first bought it and then proceeded to beat the piss out of it at several offroad parks in Texas and Arkansas. Zero axle problems. I'm not talking about trail riding either. Thing was bashed from front to rear underneath, stock skids pushed up several inches, frame gouged up and several lugs torn off the tires from my heavy right foot, and those axles were fine.

They now have aftermarket ball joints, cromo shafts and trusses F&R, but only because I switched to 40s. Still zero axle problems and the 40s are almost 2yrs old.

These new Rubi axles are nothing like the 44s that came in TJs, they are superior in every way.

Like I said, glad it works for some.

I have nothing against the Jk axles at all. But I don't see them holding up to western type dry rock wheel in with 37s for very long. A few trips, sure, but eventually the ears on the front shafts will stretch and the rear axles will twist. Especially when the jeep is loaded down for camping. Much different than the east coast parks where you just have a yeti full of bush and white claws :flipoff2:
 
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So you took stock Ford alcoa's, machined opened up the holes and turned them into slots to shave weight?

:smokin:

Yeah. Threw me off too. I thought they were some kind of aftermarket wheel when looking on my phone. Then saw the center cap holes and it clicked.

I dont know if the machine cost (paying someone else) would benefit anyone over a couple lbs per wheel.

Are the UTV a softer compound compared to LT tires?
 
Like I said, glad it works for some.

I have nothing against the Jk axles at all. But I don't see them holding up to western type dry rock wheel in with 37s for very long. A few trips, sure, but eventually the ears on the front shafts will stretch and the rear axles will twist. Especially when the jeep is loaded down for camping. Much different than the east coast parks where you just have a yeti full of bush and white claws :flipoff2:

Funny how you west coast motherfuckers think the only place in the country that has challenging wheeling spots is where you live.... Why do you think Eric Miller and the rest of the east coast racers kick ass in U4? I'll give you a hint: It's because east coast wheeling with all its glacial rock, mud and trees is harder to maneuver through than the endless supply of traction you guys call slick rock, and makes for better drivers. :flipoff2:
 
That front locked or open?

edit: nevermind, stupid question. I see it right there on the hood. :homer: :laughing:

I'd think for sure you'd be snapping those. huh
 
That front locked or open?

edit: nevermind, stupid question. I see it right there on the hood. :homer: :laughing:

I'd think for sure you'd be snapping those. huh

I kinda thought that was going to happen also. After 3 trips doing shit like that over and over again, nothing happened. Not saying I was intentionally trying to break an axle but I sure wasn't going easy on it. If I would have done that kind of stuff with stock TJ D44 axles and 37s I can guarantee I would have broken one. These new JK axles, with just a bit of aftermarket love, are fine for 90% of the wheeling MOST of us do.
 
I kinda thought that was going to happen also. After 3 trips doing shit like that over and over again, nothing happened. Not saying I was intentionally trying to break an axle but I sure wasn't going easy on it. If I would have done that kind of stuff with stock TJ D44 axles and 37s I can guarantee I would have broken one. These new JK axles, with just a bit of aftermarket love, are fine for 90% of the wheeling MOST of us do.
Aftermarket shafts are a must but then they are pretty strong.
 
Funny how you west coast motherfuckers think the only place in the country that has challenging wheeling spots is where you live.... Why do you think Eric Miller and the rest of the east coast racers kick ass in U4? I'll give you a hint: It's because east coast wheeling with all its glacial rock, mud and trees is harder to maneuver through than the endless supply of traction you guys call slick rock, and makes for better drivers. :flipoff2:

Didn't want to bring that up, but nothing is funnier than watching west coasters making fun of east coasters. Then the very few who come here and try to crawl shit end up as trail tampons with their 100:1 crawl ratios and "If you have the right line you don't need to hit the gas pedal" driving style. :grinpimp:
 
Shiet, youse easterners git to booniehop thru stuff the prk would faint over!
ya'll WIN!:smokin:
 
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