That’d drop right into my centurion, and if I was spending that kinda money the centurion would be the one to get it.
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Know when to hold ‘em know when to fold em
- Thread starter JR4X
- Start date
clodhopper
Get off my lawn, punk!
Somewhere out there is a guy that has the same truck that got t-boned or rear destroyed and is looking for a truck husk to jump the motor into and has the time to do it.
I’ve been watching for the totaled truck to show up for sale so I could yank the motor out of it. It seems like any running superduty has full coverage on it and insurance sends them to salvage when they get wrecked. Co-part and eBay have tons of totaled trucks with engines in them. But they want crazy money for 200 ish thousand mile engines. And I know 200 is the line, if it was deleted early. If it wasn’t deleted the line was 100 to 150 to catastrophic failure.
Sounds familiar. My trucks in way better shape than this one. But I’m positive it’s a scam. What’s more realistic given everything we know about the 6.4. One bad injector? Or a broken piston.Seems like a perfect candidate for "just needs one injector, I have a new one right here in the glove box"
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CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
My 18 year old son kept sending me these when we were looking.
I said ain't no way in hell I am falling for that trick, again
cadman929
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Sell to me so I can use the interior in my shitbox ford
In all honesty, the 6.7/5.9 cummins swap is a well documented for 6.4 trucks and the aftermarket has all the crap to make the factory dash work.
Didn’t cadman929 do this swap recently? And I think he’s taken it on some road trips too….
I may have mental issues but I have taken highly modified rigs on long road trips with success. I know most people say tow rigs gotta stay factory so it’s preference
Levigarrett76
Zeus of the Sluice
Got a shot with her skirt up?I have a p-pump 12v/zf5 i haul my buggy and other wheelers and my dozer with it had it in for a year. Everything but cruise is hooked up(just need a 7.3 cruise servo for it to work) Truck was cheap at auction im about 8-10k total in a fully loaded leather interior truck. That gets 23mpg empty and about 18 if you drive like a white man towing. With fuel economy in mind i left factory govenor springs in so it starts to defuel at about 70-75mph so highway cruising the fuel economy's tits. Done many 12+hr hauls never had a hickup with it. I like simplicity and reliability hence why i threw the pos 6.4 in the scrap. Ford diesel engines are all shit but the 7.3’s.
He did a build thread in the Ferd section on it.
Full manual superduty (im really scared of computers)😂
do you listen to your old alabama tapes in your tow rig on the way to go wheeling? Do you love your old manual fummins? Do you need more room for fat chicks and your dog? Do you need a hp60 to build a new axle for the front of your buggy when you go rear steer? Do you want to be able to go over...
irate4x4.com
Levigarrett76
Zeus of the Sluice
Oh that oneHe did a build thread in the Ferd section on it.
Full manual superduty (im really scared of computers)😂
do you listen to your old alabama tapes in your tow rig on the way to go wheeling? Do you love your old manual fummins? Do you need more room for fat chicks and your dog? Do you need a hp60 to build a new axle for the front of your buggy when you go rear steer? Do you want to be able to go over...
ridered3
Low Talent Wheelin
That would make things much simpler!
cadman929
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Aggie06
I ain't the one to blame.
List it on Craigslists or Facebook marketplace and send it south of the border.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
It's seems like you have answered your own question.
You replaced it with the 6.7 truck.
You said you'd rather put time into the centurion if you were to dive into a swap.
So really the common sense option is to send it down the road.
I guess you could try to find a decent donor to throw in, but then what? What purpose would this serve between the 6.7 and centurion?
The other option would be to hack fix a single piston in there and send it down the road. Not sure that's worth the time either as who's going to want to pay much for a truck that just had 1 piston replaced?
You replaced it with the 6.7 truck.
You said you'd rather put time into the centurion if you were to dive into a swap.
So really the common sense option is to send it down the road.
I guess you could try to find a decent donor to throw in, but then what? What purpose would this serve between the 6.7 and centurion?
The other option would be to hack fix a single piston in there and send it down the road. Not sure that's worth the time either as who's going to want to pay much for a truck that just had 1 piston replaced?
I’d have to do the one piston hack in secret because my engine guy would disown me if he knew I did something shady like that. I can get the good Mahle ceramic coated pistons with wrist pins and rings for $900 bucks. The ones that have a different quench bowl architecture to keep them from breaking.It's seems like you have answered your own question.
You replaced it with the 6.7 truck.
You said you'd rather put time into the centurion if you were to dive into a swap.
So really the common sense option is to send it down the road.
I guess you could try to find a decent donor to throw in, but then what? What purpose would this serve between the 6.7 and centurion?
The other option would be to hack fix a single piston in there and send it down the road. Not sure that's worth the time either as who's going to want to pay much for a truck that just had 1 piston replaced?
Today I’m kicking it out of the driveway and taking it to my friends house to park it for a while. I don’t want another trucks worth of insurance on my monthly expenses or I’d half ass it to have around home. I drove two 6.7’s yesterday and I miss the acceleration and cushy ride of my old truck doing car duty. I should just SD axle swap my Centurion doing the coil conversion in the front and longer springs in the rear to knock the harshness out its leaf spring 350 ride on the shitty New Mexico roads.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
I agree it's hack, just figured maybe someone would scoop it up with plans to swap it or do a full build sooner than later.
Problem with the good pistons is who just replaces pistons at ~200k? May as well go all in at that point.
Acceleration is probably mostly tq management. Could grab a tuner if you really wanted. I think my father in law said his banks tuner added 100hp with emissions intact.
You're saying the 08 rode better than your 19? Is it a 250 vs 350 thing? Could always pull leafs and add air bags if it's that bad.
When I had a 2018 6.2 F250 for work, I was kinda surprised how rough it was, even with 90g of fuel, steel tool box, air compressor, full cooler, tools ect. My 97 F350 with 99-04 leafs was smoother over small bumps than it was. Bigger bumps the noodle OBS frame does wierd shit though
If you already have the D60 front in the centurion, I'd just swap some superduty leafs in, pretty easy compared to the coil spring swap. I'm thinking about going to old man emu 2" leafs for a superduty when I get mine going. Should level it out and improve the ride at the same time.
Roc Doc
2A SNBI
OOOH, Siamesed block, I thought they got away from that after the SBC 400 problems of the late 70's. It got piston coolers or something?
All in is about $20K. Not doing that. That would be a full rebuild plus new injectors and a few other things it would be stupid not to replace with a new engine under them.
It’s a 10 but yeah. Crew cab short bed rear leaf springs are soft and have no over loads. The frame doesn’t even have the sliders for over loads to contact. So for pulling trailers I air bagged it.Acceleration is probably mostly tq management. Could grab a tuner if you really wanted. I think my father in law said his banks tuner added 100hp with emissions intact.
You're saying the 08 rode better than your 19? Is it a 250 vs 350 thing? Could always pull leafs and add air bags if it's that bad.
When I had a 2018 6.2 F250 for work, I was kinda surprised how rough it was, even with 90g of fuel, steel tool box, air compressor, full cooler, tools ect. My 97 F350 with 99-04 leafs was smoother over small bumps than it was. Bigger bumps the noodle OBS frame does wierd shit though
If you already have the D60 front in the centurion, I'd just swap some superduty leafs in, pretty easy compared to the coil spring swap. I'm thinking about going to old man emu 2" leafs for a superduty when I get mine going. Should level it out and improve the ride at the same time.
My new truck being a long bed has the heavier leaf pack with over loads and rides like a brick compared to the old one. Dads dually obviously rides like a one ton dually. The new truck is 2 or 3 inches taller than the old one. No need for bags, it holds the weight all on its own.
All the big bore big cube race blocks are Siamese. Either that wasn’t the problem or we’ve just figured out how to keep them cool. The Dart and LSX blocks everyone I know is running are Siamese cyl.
Roc Doc
2A SNBI
I would guess that's the case, along with thinner rings, better oil, etc.
Ranchtruck
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The governor springs are the first thing I'd change on a manual trans 12v. The de-fueling hits in every gear so it falls flat as you wind it up then when you shift its starting from a lower RPM and it takes longer for the turbo to pick up again.
With a 4k spring kit you get full power all the way up to the stock 3k red line and having the power range extended up there means it's right in the sweet spot to come back alive after a shift. It completely changes how the truck drives when you're really working it.
Fuel economy is set by your foot, not the springs. The point of the stock springs was to ensure an idiot couldn't over rev it. That came at the expense of a third of the useable power range of the engine. I'd rather have that power and take responsibility for not winding it past red line.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
That's my point, just throwing pistons in seems pretty silly.
Those year rage F250s were SOFT. My old work had a 2010 and 2011, the leafs looked exactly like the chebby 63s guys put in their Toyotas. 2 leafs with a bottom overload.
These newer trucks with the rat race in capacity are their own worst enemy with ride quality.
My buddy has a 22 ram 3500 with the air ride option. It's basically the same thing, but with a thick anti wrap leaf and big airbags with auto leveling. I always thought that would be sweet to copy. Big truck leveling valves are cheap and easy to get, just need to supply them with air pressure.
My 22 F350 dually rides pretty freakin sweet compared to my 97 F250. I have zero complaints about the ride quality of the new truck.
rockota
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Thought has definitely crossed my mind. I also have a 2012 part’s donor I bought for the axles for the Centurion because they have the E locker rear.
For now I need it out of my way. Loaded it up and hauled it to my friends to be in his way. Could have used air bags for this tongue heavy load. Drove it on and off the trailer.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Fwiw, a 7.3 doesn't have a cruise control servo, it's all in the computer.
You need one from a gas Ford I'm guessing?
I’ve done a little research and if I understand correctly it’s parts from a V10. A bolt in drive by cable throttle pedal comes from the V10 truck to replace the DBW crap of the diesel of the same year.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
That's what I did on my 97, can't remember what engine, but more or less same year gas pedal and cruise servo.
I'd imagine the same idea goes for the super duty up until the gas engines were drive by wire.
cadman929
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You know theres more than one 7.3L diesel right?😉
cadman929
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Then do it on yours id rather have the little boost in economy since i specifically built the truck just to haul my wheelers. Put just over 10k on the truck with zero problems with not enough power. Ive driven my buddies 12v with a nv5600 behind it and 4ks and theres really not that big of a difference other than his smokes more when you go to pass someone on the freeway. With the 3.73’s my truck has no problem crusing 85-90 falls off after 90. I have a set of power driven springs on the shelf if i ever feel the need.