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Jeep Gladiator Build

Rockbuggy84

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Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
314
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1,016
So I had a separate thread on purchasing one and which direction to go, now it’s time for the build.

Purchased a 2020 Gas, rubicon with 44,000 miles on it. Clearly has never been offroad.
IMG_9315.jpeg


My plans are ud60 front, rear tbd, 5-6” lift, suspension, some body armor and 40”-42” tires.

I’m currently stock piling parts for the build, but after owning it for 1 week, I decided I couldn’t drive it stock.

I threw on a 3.5” teraflex mid arm system and threw some 37” mtrs I had in the shop on the stock wheels.
IMG_9364.jpeg
 
So I want to start with some immediate problems I have found.

First off, due to the super short rear upper control arm length, the rear axle has the worst pinion dive I’ve ever seen. I now need to decide on a triangulated rear link setup, or cutting it all off and throwing a good set of leaf springs in the rear.

I could easily get a comparable ride and flex I’m after with a good set of custom leafs and remove all the complications in the rear.

Second issue is what I call the “jeep tax”.

The driveshaft prices for front and rear are laughable at best.

The front aftermarket’s are $700-800 and are a standard 1350 cv, t-case flange and yoke for the front axle if needed.

The rear is either a 1 piece cv, or non cv or two piece 1350 that’s also cv or non cv. They range from $1100 to $1800.

I have a replacement front shaft for a 2003 excursion laying around, so i did some comparing. I paid $200 for this shaft years ago, shipped to my door. They’re currently $214 online.

It uses 1350 cv, spicer joints and the max operating angle is nearly identical to my super expensive shafts ordered from a driveshaft builder we all know that is super popular in the offroad community.

If it was 2” shorter, it would be a direct bolt in. After a flange at the t-case and shortening the shaft, I’ll be right around $400 in the front.

The rear aftermarket is completely overcomplicated and is a flat out ripoff imo. At 3.5”-4” of lift, you could replace the rear stock with a ford 1 piece, non cv and have zero issues.

With a mid arm system, the axle stays very parallel to the t-case output, therefore countering angles, meaning no cv is needed.

You can order a replacement rear from a ford that is 1350 and just a touch too long for around $200. Order the yoke conversion for the tcase and rear axle and have the shaft shortened. That’ll land you around $500.

If I do a long arm setup or leafs, I will opt for a 1 piece with a cv. I will run it by my driveshaft guy, but the $214 ford shaft has over 2.75” tube and should be within the acceptable length vs tube diameter.
I’ll simply have it retubed to length with thicker wall tubing.

I also have a 1350 cv laying around that has 3” tube that’ll for sure work if needed.
 
Last edited:
Agree 100%... I started buying cheap Amazon F250 shafts last year and having local fleet pride retube them as needed. On my personal jeep I used neapco joints rather than seeing how long the Amazon joints would last.
 
You check Adam's Driveshaft for pricing? The quotes you are getting seem to be about double what I paid for the ones in my wifes JKUR. :eek:
 
Weasel said:
Nice. Just too low stock or why the half step to 37s?
Click to expand...
A lot of unanswered questions.

My plans are 40-42” with my ud60 up front and rear tbd.

When I purchased the gladiator 2 weeks ago, I wasn’t too sure about the suspension, so I figured I’d throw a smaller lift and tires on it to get a feel for the power loss and the suspension.

With stock gears and 37” tires, this thing hauls ass. Almost no difference from the stock tires. This eases my concerns of 40-42” with 5.38’s.

The suspension on the other hand is a whole different story and I’m glad I threw this system on there. The front works great, zero complaints, but As pointed out, the rear upper links are way too short and cause a crazy pinion dive.

There’s also a weird little shimmy you get in the rear when you’re on certain roads. It did it stock, my buddies does it stock, it does it now with the lift and the rear end just feels unstable.

I know I could throw a triangulated setup on it and solve that problem, but I think that would give me the wrong suspension for my personal application.
 
SLOWPOKE693 said:
You check Adam's Driveshaft for pricing? The quotes you are getting seem to be about double what I paid for the ones in my wifes JKUR. :eek:
Click to expand...
www.extremeterrain.com

Adams Driveshaft Jeep Gladiator Extreme Duty Series OEM Flange Style Front 1350 CV Driveshaft with Solid U-Joints ASDJT-1350HRF-S-OEM-RUB (20-24 Jeep Gladiator JT Launch Edition, Rubicon) - Free Shipping

FREE SHIPPING! Heavy-Duty Design. Give your Jeep Gladiator bigger wheels and get this Adams Driveshaft Extreme Duty Series OEM Flange Style Front 1350 CV Drives
www.extremeterrain.com www.extremeterrain.com

www.extremeterrain.com

Adams Driveshaft Jeep Gladiator Extreme Duty Series Rear 1350 CV Driveshaft with Solid U-Joints ASDJT-1350R-S-1PC-SP (20-24 Jeep Gladiator JT Sport) - Free Shipping

FREE SHIPPING! Heavy-Duty Design. Take on bigger and better wheels in your Challenger with this Adams Driveshaft Extreme Duty Series Rear 1350 CV Driveshaft wit
www.extremeterrain.com www.extremeterrain.com

www.extremeterrain.com

J.E. Reel Jeep Gladiator Heavy Duty 1350 Rear Driveshaft with Center Support Bearing Bracket 3519JTR-4RCV (20-24 3.6L Jeep Gladiator JT w/ Automatic Transmission) - Free Shipping

FREE SHIPPING! 1350 Heavy Duty rear driveshaft for 4 door Jeep JT Gladiator models with an automatic transmission. Replacement Driveline. This System is stronge
www.extremeterrain.com www.extremeterrain.com
 
I just snagged an 03 Chevy 2500 14bolt. If my search is correct, the gladiator uses the same tone ring count as the jk.

So in theory, I should be able to use artec jk speed sensor brackets, tone rings, etc and it should satisfy the computer.
IMG_9384.jpeg


My next step is figuring out the plug at the axle. I did a quick test and unplugged the rear and it immediately threw a light on the dash. I’m not too familiar with what’s going on in there beyond engaging the locker, so I’ll start my research and see what’s required.
 
Rockbuggy84 said:
www.extremeterrain.com

Adams Driveshaft Jeep Gladiator Extreme Duty Series OEM Flange Style Front 1350 CV Driveshaft with Solid U-Joints ASDJT-1350HRF-S-OEM-RUB (20-24 Jeep Gladiator JT Launch Edition, Rubicon) - Free Shipping

FREE SHIPPING! Heavy-Duty Design. Give your Jeep Gladiator bigger wheels and get this Adams Driveshaft Extreme Duty Series OEM Flange Style Front 1350 CV Drives
www.extremeterrain.com www.extremeterrain.com

www.extremeterrain.com

Adams Driveshaft Jeep Gladiator Extreme Duty Series Rear 1350 CV Driveshaft with Solid U-Joints ASDJT-1350R-S-1PC-SP (20-24 Jeep Gladiator JT Sport) - Free Shipping

FREE SHIPPING! Heavy-Duty Design. Take on bigger and better wheels in your Challenger with this Adams Driveshaft Extreme Duty Series Rear 1350 CV Driveshaft wit
www.extremeterrain.com www.extremeterrain.com

www.extremeterrain.com

J.E. Reel Jeep Gladiator Heavy Duty 1350 Rear Driveshaft with Center Support Bearing Bracket 3519JTR-4RCV (20-24 3.6L Jeep Gladiator JT w/ Automatic Transmission) - Free Shipping

FREE SHIPPING! 1350 Heavy Duty rear driveshaft for 4 door Jeep JT Gladiator models with an automatic transmission. Replacement Driveline. This System is stronge
www.extremeterrain.com www.extremeterrain.com
Click to expand...

Unfortunately you have to pay the tax for buying a vehicle with a cult of mall crawling morons as customers.
 
Rockbuggy84 said:
My next step is figuring out the plug at the axle. I did a quick test and unplugged the rear and it immediately threw a light on the dash. I’m not too familiar with what’s going on in there beyond engaging the locker, so I’ll start my research and see what’s required.
Click to expand...


Buy a tuner that let's you turn off stuff like locker lights, swaybar lights ect and you can zip tie the plugs up in the frame.
 
SLOWPOKE693 said:
Buy a tuner that let's you turn off stuff like locker lights, swaybar lights ect and you can zip tie the plugs up in the frame.
Click to expand...
My ud60 has an elocker and it looks like there’s a conversion harness to be plug and play.

I was hoping to somehow use the factory switch to engage the rear arb, but not opposed to tuning all of it off.
 
Rockbuggy84 said:
There’s also a weird little shimmy you get in the rear when you’re on certain roads. It did it stock, my buddies does it stock, it does it now with the lift and the rear end just feels unstable.
Click to expand...
Ram 2500 does the same thing. If some version of 5-link stays, longer flatter track bar plus better shocks took the shimmy out on those for me.
 
SLOWPOKE693 said:
Unfortunately you have to pay the tax for buying a vehicle with a cult of mall crawling morons as customers.
Click to expand...
Northridge 4x4 is usually pretty comparable to most online shops and offers codes on several websites for ~10% off on some items.

It does help a little on the Jeep tax. As long as its in stock, Ive gotten a good amount of my items in 2 days or less, but they are pretty dang close to me.
 
Looking for a little help on abs sensors for the rear.

I’m going to throw a 14 bolt in the rear and all vendors are showing “out of stock” for the sensor conversion.

The Gladiator is a 52 tooth just like the jk. The gladiator sensor is completely different, but came up with a possible solution.

Jk abs conversions are readily available. I set the 14 bolt up with jk sensor, clip off the gladiator connectors and solder on jk connector. Plug it in and go. Gonna work?
 
That's what they did on my Duramax with the Ford front axle. Seems to work for the most part, there was a issue with the ring sensors but thye got that straightened out with programming. It will sometimes come up when leaving the driveway but after a few feet down the road it figured it out and the light goes out.

If I was doing it I'd leave as much of the factory wire on the sensors and install a new connectors (duestch style) to make the connection. Not a fan of solder myself.
 
Just a little update.

It sounds like the gladiator/jl abs sensors read 2 pulses per tooth, meaning that if I use jk sensors on the 14 bolt, it’ll be off on the rear and read 50% slower.

So, My current plan is to grab a set of 52 tooth rings for the hubs, machine them to fit and then make my own brackets to accommodate the factory rear sensors. We’ll see what happens.

As for the rear suspension, I have decided I’m going leaf springs. Not only do I believe I’ll have a solid setup that will perform great, but the amount of backlash I have received has solidified my decision.

I’ve got multiple buddies and people I know in the current “jeep scene” and Hearing their reactions to my plans is absolutely priceless and embarrassing at the same time.

Im being told that I’m going to ruin it with the height, leafs and a 14 bolt swap. No real explanation from them beyond “there’s bolt in or pre fabricated kits and axles”. Simply put, if one of the popular brands doesn’t offer it already, it’s not gonna work.

I am gonna snag a stock set of late model Tacoma springs and set the rear up around them. Then, once the front is where I want it, I’ll have an idea of how much height is needed in the rear to match height. I’ll then get some weights and call deaver or Alcan and have them build me a set.

As soon as I have a majority of the parts laying in the shop, I’ll start tear down and get pics posted. Should be very shortly.
 
Rockbuggy84 said:
Just a little update.

It sounds like the gladiator/jl abs sensors read 2 pulses per tooth, meaning that if I use jk sensors on the 14 bolt, it’ll be off on the rear and read 50% slower.

So, My current plan is to grab a set of 52 tooth rings for the hubs, machine them to fit and then make my own brackets to accommodate the factory rear sensors. We’ll see what happens.
Click to expand...
I believe a Dakota digital SGI-1000bt box would recalibrate the 50% difference. I think they work up to 400%. I’ve used them on a couple rigs to change my transmission output signal into a signal my speedometer could comprehend and they are accurate.

One of my favorite set ups was ORIs up front and leaf springs in the rear. Simple and effective. I look forward to this build.
 
Snagged some universal rod ends and tube to make the drag link and tie rod for the UD60.

IMG_9492.jpeg


Will possibly use the Trail ready beadlocks that have been sitting in the corner of my shop for over a year.
IMG_9493.jpeg


Threw the Jeep on one of my lifts.
IMG_9494.jpeg
 
About an hour later.
IMG_9496.jpeg


Started to plasma the hangers off. Passenger side is too close to the gas tank for my liking, so I stopped and moved to the driver side. I’ll remove the tank and then proceed.
IMG_9499.jpeg


Driver side was super easy because the factory welds are very thin. I’m gonna yank the exhaust so I can get better access to the frame rail.
IMG_9498.jpeg


Put it on the ground for the night cause I have a birthday party to attend, but I’ll be back at it in the am. Under 3hrs invested so far.
IMG_9500.jpeg
 
Gonna order 4-4.5” front coils. I’ll throw some Acos adjustable coil spacers in it and be able to dial in the front height.

I have found that there are countless aftermarket springs available for the late model tacomas. I should be able to get a set of off the shelf, aftermarket springs that perform great.
 
When you drop the tank I'd put in a strap like what comes with Artecs skid. I'm sure you've dealt with plenty of strapless tanks but I don't like the fact they're held up by the skids alone. Any JK I drop a tank on, I build a strap for it so any future needs of dropping the skid doesn't mean the tank comes with it.

Have you used the IRO LA before? Looks better than my EVO LA, but I'm more not impressed with the rear geometry versus the front.
 
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