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Java's F450 RV

Ok checked. 87.7% lowest SOC. temp was 9C or 48.2 F at the battery terminal

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Java230 said:
Ok checked. 87.7% lowest SOC. temp was 9C or 48.2 F at the battery terminal
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Do you have a voltage chart like those?

My gut says the SOC meter is not working correctly at all. If your battery bank is idle at 50*-60* F then you were already at 95-92% of capacity no 100.
And if the voltage is dropping that low (11.9X) there is definitely more draw than what you are counting in AH.
 
CarterKraft said:
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Do you have a voltage chart like those?

My gut says the SOC meter is not working correctly at all. If your battery bank is idle at 50*-60* F then you were already at 95-92% of capacity no 100.
And if the voltage is dropping that low (11.9X) there is definitely more draw than what you are counting in AH.
Click to expand...

Yep, this is under a little load, but lowest voltage I could find.
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Java230 Regarding the insulation/wall thickness between the exterior and interior walls:

How thick is your walls?
How well does it insulate from the outside?
What kind of overnight temps do you deal with?
 
CDA 455 II said:
Would you want/like/prefer a shorter WB?
Has your WB limited your ability to go places?
Click to expand...

Yes and no.... It puts more load on the front axle, has I get break over, I have dragged the belly numerous times, but the small rear overhang is nice too. No huge swing room needed and don't whack in in decents etc. So I think it's fine.
 
CDA 455 II said:
Java230 Regarding the insulation/wall thickness between the exterior and interior walls:

How thick is your walls?
How well does it insulate from the outside?
What kind of overnight temps do you deal with?
Click to expand...

Walls are 1.75" spray foam, plus 1/4 ply. Roof is ~4.5 ish.
It insulates pretty well IMO. Heater can cook us out easy. A 1500w electric can keep it at 70+ with below freeze outdoor Temps easy.
Been down to - 15, but generally it's more in the 20-30 rage most often.

Note, I have three windows, one that is 4x4. They are literally holes in the wall mkre or less.


Your going with an off the shelf camper right?

If I was doing it again I would use the arctic tern windows. I was afraid of acrylic scratching, but they are a superior product to mine. Same with the door. Rv doors suck.
 
Battery heater kicked on...... Must have been below 45. Closest to the heater is about 85, other side of the battery is 55-58 ish. Heater is about 95
 
Java230 said:
Walls are 1.75" spray foam, plus 1/4 ply. Roof is ~4.5 ish.
It insulates pretty well IMO. Heater can cook us out easy. A 1500w electric can keep it at 70+ with below freeze outdoor Temps easy.
Been down to - 15, but generally it's more in the 20-30 rage most often.

Note, I have three windows, one that is 4x4. They are literally holes in the wall mkre or less.

Your going with an off the shelf camper right?

If I was doing it again I would use the arctic tern windows. I was afraid of acrylic scratching, but they are a superior product to mine. Same with the door. Rv doors suck.
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Thanks for the response. :beer:

I'm looking at two campers:
1) Alaskan
2) Host Industries 'Mammoth' model

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Damn; 4.5" thick exterior walls!
That's awesome for a camper! :beer:


I want to do exactly what you're doing (backcountry mountaineering/camping).


The Alaskan (which is built in your 'hood/WA) will build to suit.

The hydraulic-lift roof is a real seller for me; also low roofline when traveling, and less weight.


The Host Industries camper is built in our neighbor-state (OR; I'm in ID).

This is like a mini version of your set up; much more comfortable/more room, etc.

If they would build me a flatbed version of the Mammoth, that would be a real contender.
 
CDA 455 II said:
Thanks for the response. :beer:

I'm looking at two campers:
1) Alaskan
2) Host Industries 'Mammoth' model



Damn; 4.5" thick exterior walls!
That's awesome for a camper! :beer:


I want to do exactly what you're doing (backcountry mountaineering/camping).


The Alaskan (which is built in your 'hood/WA) will build to suit.

The hydraulic-lift roof is a real seller for me; also low roofline when traveling, and less weight.


The Host Industries camper is built in our neighbor-state (OR; I'm in ID).

This is like a mini version of your set up; much more comfortable/more room, etc.

If they would build me a flatbed version of the Mammoth, that would be a real contender.
Click to expand...

Just the ceiling is thick. Walls are 1.75

Go with whatever will do flat bed. Way more useable space.

Alaskan drop roof is nice, but old school construction. Which can be good or bad depending how you look at it.
 
If anyone has an H&S tuner they want to part with let me know!
 
Nice weekend. Thinking about doing an airdog system. I was given some tunes and I think they may be really stretching the stock pump. Thoughts? And now I need to find a H&S tuner.....


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Anyone know anything about H&S tuners? Can you load tunes via SD card without an MCC unlock code?
 
Java230 said:
Yep, this is under a little load, but lowest voltage I could find.
Click to expand...

My uneducated guess is that the SOC meter is not temp compensating or is just wrong for whatever reason. I would personally just run one day with no unexpected loads and monitor voltage performance via volt meter and data from ColorGX.

Then determine if you are getting expected use from the pack based on heater run time and idle voltage readings.
I don't use a shunt for SOC readings only draws to visualize if shit got left on somewhere or to visualize inverter loads. All my SOC is from resting voltage.
 
Good weekend, with every electrical issue I can have :lmao:

Friday night parked the truck and relaxed. Nice stars. And my lovely turn signal arrow....


Started fine Saturday AM, 10-15 minute drive, parked in on spot, decided to move, started fine again. Skied all day, a little microwave use (high draw....) another 10-15 min drive. House Batteries were ~90ish % If i remember right.

Well overnight the house batteries got cold and angry….. 12.1V resting in the AM. And apparently the start batteries were pissed off too, cranked over, real slow and wouldn't start..... Luckily a ranger was driving by and gave me a jump.... Because trying to jump off the house batteries sure wasn't working....

So to do list..... Get battery heater setup working. Replace start batteries.... Add switch for self jumping (using a piece of wire sucks) and prove it will work (I will try to start it with the start batteries removed?) . Test to make sure I don't have a ton of parasitic drain (turn signal dash light.....). Maybe buy lithium jump pack (diesel sized??) oh and my battery chain saw decided to fuck off too.

Need this resolved.... We camp in the middle of fucking no where a lot. I got lucky with a jump this weekend.

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I thought you had a small generator on hand. It wouldn't be a terrible backup charging plan.
 
Firstram said:
I thought you had a small generator on hand. It wouldn't be a terrible backup charging plan.
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I have a Honda 2k.....but it's a bitch to carry (big) and stinks...... So it doesn't usually come along. I haven't taken it in years.
 
The fact that your starting batteries were hurting as well proves (to me at least) that you have a temperature problem with your batteries at best, that combined with parasitic draws at worst.

What about a seedling heat mat for the house batteries? 110v, but they're cheap cheap. You can get thermostats with temp sensor for them as well. Stick one of these under your house batteries and plug it in (or set it to run) at night.
https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Wate...ic-Standard/dp/B00P7U259C/?tag=91812054244-20
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
The fact that your starting batteries were hurting as well proves (to me at least) that you have a temperature problem with your batteries at best, that combined with parasitic draws at worst.

What about a seedling heat mat for the house batteries? 110v, but they're cheap cheap. You can get thermostats with temp sensor for them as well. Stick one of these under your house batteries and plug it in (or set it to run) at night.
https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Wate...ic-Standard/dp/B00P7U259C/?tag=91812054244-20
Click to expand...

Yes I agree I need to get heat into them. The house bank at least. The starting batteries are unknown age, and I have not replaced them, which leads me to think at least 5 years old (I have owned the truck a bit over 4 years now).

I don't really want to run 110 heat mats, I don't have hookups that often. If anything, a 12v set. Or maybe 120 if I just run them for an hour before starting?
 
Insulate the battery box install heating system.

Definitely install the bidirectional jump start switch.
 
Java230 said:
I don't really want to run 110 heat mats, I don't have hookups that often. If anything, a 12v set. Or maybe 120 if I just run them for an hour before starting?
Click to expand...

The 120v one was just an example, and i/we have provided examples for other 12v heating mats as well. Whatever method you choose, insulate/heat the house battery bank as a next step.
 
CarterKraft said:
Insulate the battery box install heating system.

Definitely install the bidirectional jump start switch.
Click to expand...

I can force the solenoid to close, but when the house batteries are dead it doesn't do much good! I tried, when cranking the voltage dropped to 9 ish....

The house batteries are sitting on 1" XPS foam, and inside. But they just don't get heat from the main cabin really. I think I have all the parts I need sitting in a Amazon list. I just need some aluminum to make heat plates out of.... Do you think one down the middle like I currently have is enough?
 
an off the wall thought.

rather than using heat plates or pads, what about running a fan into the battery compartment so you can get the inside heat there.
probably less draw, and you're using a webasto for heat right? burn more diesel, use less electricity.
 
87manche said:
an off the wall thought.

rather than using heat plates or pads, what about running a fan into the battery compartment so you can get the inside heat there.
probably less draw, and you're using a webasto for heat right? burn more diesel, use less electricity.
Click to expand...

That is definitely an option. But it keeps my beer cold down there too :lmao:

I jut ordered 4 silicone pads and a controller..... Need to fins some alu plate!


And maybe think about a grill and fan...... it is also packed full of stuff down there, so airflow would still suck. Also, generally the truck is ~65 ish at most, so I bet it wouldn't get more than 60 down there, and the batteries would be less than ambient I would think.
 
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