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Is this lathe worth picking up?

desertPOS said:
These are the oils I got:

10W
www.mcmaster.com

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
www.mcmaster.com www.mcmaster.com

20W
www.mcmaster.com

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
www.mcmaster.com www.mcmaster.com
Click to expand...


Those should be perfect. They're exact crosses for the Mobil specs. How did the come labeled? That's about the only complaint I have about McMaster - they sell a bunch of brand name stuff but there's zero way to tell what it is on their site. Like their "premium milling machine vises" are clearly Kurt, but it doesn't actually say that anywhere on the site. Same for the bench vises that are obviously Wilton.
 
This is how it came - I was just going to use a paint pen to label bottle and matching oiler I put it in, as well as what oil cup each should be put into.

So the one that says sae 20 is good for the bearings in the head stock?

edit: I cut it off in the pic, but paint pen says "SAE 20" since it doesn't say that anywhere on the bottle, although it does on the description on their site

IMG_8626.jpeg
 
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Made some progress this evening and got the carriage back together and back on the lathe bed. Used Extreme Pressure Lube #3 for most of the assembly:

Lanacote for all aluminum threads, loctite blue for all steel threads

IMG_8617.jpeg


I just plugged in pipe cleaners where they look like they should go:confused: No idea if that's at all correct. Intended to fill that cup with oil to see if it was wicking but forgot - will have to try to take a pic later of the underside and see if they're working at all. The two on the right plugged in to oil ports, one on the left will just drip on the gears?

IMG_8625.jpeg


IMG_8629.jpeg


IMG_8634.jpeg


Looks pretty slick all buttoned up. I'm tempted to do the same to the whole head stock and everything else, but think I'll save that for future and just try to use the thing for now

IMG_8640.jpeg
 
desertPOS said:
This is how it came - I was just going to use a paint pen to label bottle and matching oiler I put it in, as well as what oil cup each should be put into.

So the one that says sae 20 is good for the bearings in the head stock?

edit: I cut it off in the pic, but paint pen says "SAE 20" since it doesn't say that anywhere on the bottle, although it does on the description on their site

IMG_8626.jpeg
Click to expand...

Vactra No. 2 is ISO 68 so that looks about right.




If you haven't looked at the original manuals, Keith has both the Craftsman and the Atlas versions on vintagemachinery.org.


Strangely enough, the one from Craftsman calls for SAE 20 on everyting excep the open gears.....which I don't really agree with. I think it's too thick to work with most of the oilers and wicks.
1709736824292.png



This is the chart for the older 10" models, which were functionally nearly identical to the 12". This is what I've always followed.
1709737271085.png
 
bgaidan said:
Vactra No. 2 is ISO 68 so that looks about right.




If you haven't looked at the original manuals, Keith has both the Craftsman and the Atlas versions on vintagemachinery.org.


Strangely enough, the one from Craftsman calls for SAE 20 on everyting excep the open gears.....which I don't really agree with. I think it's too thick to work with most of the oilers and wicks.
1709736824292.png



This is the chart for the older 10" models, which were functionally nearly identical to the 12". This is what I've always followed.
1709737271085.png
Click to expand...

Similar to what I have in tmy manual - I guess the reason I was questioning the oil I've got for bearings is where it calls for 'motor oil' (like #5 in your second pic), and made me think the tackifier used in the way oil may not allow it to flow. Especially going through the steel wool or whatever screens are in the oil cups. Maybe I'll just use the 10w stuff, or pull a cup off and just see how it flows through the screen and through the tube...


Got some time today to get the last of the carriage together and inventory what cutting tools came with this. Hoping to turn a ring gear down this weekend - any of this look up to the task? Most of it says CHINA on it so looks to be mostly aftermarket stuff.

IMG_8656.jpeg

IMG_8658.jpeg


This is all that came with it for cutting - any of this look up to the task of turning down a 14bolt ring gear?

IMG_8660.jpeg



For these tool holders - I'm not seeing anything I have that would be utilized for clamping them in place. Do any of the attachments I have look up to that task? I don't see any marks from them where bolts would have been tightened down on them before. Will take a closer look over the weekend

IMG_8659.jpeg
 
desertPOS said:
For these tool holders - I'm not seeing anything I have that would be utilized for clamping them in place. Do any of the attachments I have look up to that task? I don't see any marks from them where bolts would have been tightened down on them before. Will take a closer look over the weekend

IMG_8659.jpeg
Click to expand...

You need a Lantern style tool post holder. They are a little more time consuming to swap tools around but do have their place in a home shop (I can hear the feet stomping now of the :homer: coming to tell me I am wrong).

00H0H_b49e30mTjGZ_0ww0oo_600x450.jpg
 
desertPOS said:
Similar to what I have in tmy manual - I guess the reason I was questioning the oil I've got for bearings is where it calls for 'motor oil' (like #5 in your second pic), and made me think the tackifier used in the way oil may not allow it to flow. Especially going through the steel wool or whatever screens are in the oil cups. Maybe I'll just use the 10w stuff, or pull a cup off and just see how it flows through the screen and through the tube...
Click to expand...
I just use the lighter weight stuff on everything but the ways. The bearings in the headstock aren't really sealed so it'll weep out, but that's just the nature of old machines.


desertPOS said:
Got some time today to get the last of the carriage together and inventory what cutting tools came with this. Hoping to turn a ring gear down this weekend - any of this look up to the task? Most of it says CHINA on it so looks to be mostly aftermarket stuff.

IMG_8656.jpeg

IMG_8658.jpeg


This is all that came with it for cutting - any of this look up to the task of turning down a 14bolt ring gear?
Click to expand...

That's the same import set that just about everybody runs. They work great. I'd recommend getting some carbide insert tool holders for them. You don't have much there in the way of actual cutters.

You can pick up a set like this for ~$50 and it'll cover almost everything you'd want to do with that machine. Just measure your holders and get the ones with the biggest shanks that will fit them.

You can get them on Amazon for a little premium.....or straight from China on ebay or one of the other chinese sites. I always order replacement inserts on ebay straight from china as they're quite a bit cheaper.

1709990524314.png





desertPOS said:
IMG_8660.jpeg



For these tool holders - I'm not seeing anything I have that would be utilized for clamping them in place. Do any of the attachments I have look up to that task? I don't see any marks from them where bolts would have been tightened down on them before. Will take a closer look over the weekend

IMG_8659.jpeg
Click to expand...
Like @AlxJ64 said, they have their place, but they're a lot more work to set up and you're missing the tool post. Since you already have the quick change setup, I'd just tool up around that.

​

​

 
AlxJ64 said:
You need a Lantern style tool post holder. They are a little more time consuming to swap tools around but do have their place in a home shop (I can hear the feet stomping now of the :homer: coming to tell me I am wrong).

00H0H_b49e30mTjGZ_0ww0oo_600x450.jpg
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I'd rather have a lantern than a turret for stupid stuff. Getting the point of contact closer to directly over the cross slide is better.

I don't see a need for the 4-way now that quick change is cheap enough.
 
Wanted to check runout on the chuck and it seemed excessive, so I pulled it off and cleaned it up. Wanted to pull the baseplate as well, but wasn't seeming to want to come off, and didn't want to use the gears to hold in in place while I pry on it and break a tooth. Think the reading I'm getting is probably not too accurate spinning this fast




Chuck back on, spinning by hand. 2 thousandths heavy? Acceptable?




2" DOM didn't seem to run all that true, although when I bolted up the ring gear it seemed a lot better. I'll have to take another look at the ID of the jaws although I did clean them off pretty good




Figured I'd give it a test turn with the only piece of hss I have for the hell of it - I know it's not ground right. At least I cut something:homer:

IMG_8672.jpeg



Too much 'stick out?' Terrible angle? Thought it'd be better to cut left to right (in bites, not the way it's set up in the pic), but I found a few youtube vids of people turning down 14 bolt ring gears, and they all auto fed it right to left, gear teeth first. Their machines all looked a lot more rigid than what I'm working with...

IMG_8674.jpeg

IMG_8675.jpeg



Think I may just order some preground HSS stuff off Amazon and try it out - if it breaks it breaks. Worse case I'll mount and angle grinder with a grinding disc on it and do it that way

Interested to know anyone's thoughts on the runout I'm showing. Was thinking after the fact that maybe if I cut a wood wedge to wedge the gears to the housing, I could break the jaw backing plate loose that way. I'd just hate to break a gear tooth off one of the main gears. They're the zinc/aluminum/whatever material and don't think they're that available to replace. Would be cool to get a runout of the shaft without the backing plate though
 
Measure the spindle, not the chuck. The chuck isn't necessarily perfectly round.
 
desertPOS said:
Wanted to check runout on the chuck and it seemed excessive, so I pulled it off and cleaned it up. Wanted to pull the baseplate as well, but wasn't seeming to want to come off, and didn't want to use the gears to hold in in place while I pry on it and break a tooth. Think the reading I'm getting is probably not too accurate spinning this fast




Chuck back on, spinning by hand. 2 thousandths heavy? Acceptable?




2" DOM didn't seem to run all that true, although when I bolted up the ring gear it seemed a lot better. I'll have to take another look at the ID of the jaws although I did clean them off pretty good




Figured I'd give it a test turn with the only piece of hss I have for the hell of it - I know it's not ground right. At least I cut something:homer:

IMG_8672.jpeg



Too much 'stick out?' Terrible angle? Thought it'd be better to cut left to right (in bites, not the way it's set up in the pic), but I found a few youtube vids of people turning down 14 bolt ring gears, and they all auto fed it right to left, gear teeth first. Their machines all looked a lot more rigid than what I'm working with...

IMG_8674.jpeg

IMG_8675.jpeg



Think I may just order some preground HSS stuff off Amazon and try it out - if it breaks it breaks. Worse case I'll mount and angle grinder with a grinding disc on it and do it that way

Interested to know anyone's thoughts on the runout I'm showing. Was thinking after the fact that maybe if I cut a wood wedge to wedge the gears to the housing, I could break the jaw backing plate loose that way. I'd just hate to break a gear tooth off one of the main gears. They're the zinc/aluminum/whatever material and don't think they're that available to replace. Would be cool to get a runout of the shaft without the backing plate though
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Spin that compound around 180 degrees. Loosen tool post up and cheat it over the edge a bit you could lose a ton of that tool stick out. Has is not gonna touch those gears. Those will need to be cut with an insert.

Measure runout at the taper not the chuck. 3 jaws suck for runout unless you have a really high quality one that hasn’t been beat on. My 3 jaw is getting bad like yours but I know the jaws are splayed and need to be reground. Anything I want done with any accuracy I just toss the 4 jaw on.
 
^^ What they said, but also get as piece of ground stock or drill steel to stick in the chuck and indicate off that. I highly doubt DOM is round enough to rely on for this kind of test.

The OD of the truck is most likely not going to be true nor will the faceplate. That matters is what's clamped in the jaws.
 
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