What's new

Internal Beadlocks

JNHEscher

Red Skull Member
Joined
Jun 7, 2020
Member Number
1892
Messages
2,997
Loc
Dogwood, MO.
Couldn't find a dedicated thread, so here it goes :homer:


What's out there? What's good? What's not good? Proof is in the puddin', so whatcha got?

I posted about double beadlocks a while back and decided that Stazworks and such were way to heavy for my car. Running 15x7's. Looking to keep it light-ish. I have Coyote and Inner Air Lock pulled up. Any others? I'm aware of many good and bad stories on these, but figure I'd post a thread specific to them here.
 
My experience with internal beadlocks was not a great experience. They suck balls. Were a pain in the ass to install and you have to have two valve stems. One has to somehow allow air around the inner boot, which in my case was about never. I finally just got sick of fighting them and went regular beadlocks.

I’d be inclined to make weld ons with those wheels. Your experience may vary. But there’s a reason nobody runs em.:laughing:
 
I wonder if you could do the tire in a tire thing like JR4X does with his race tires? Then technically you would have internal double beadlocks and a run flat at the same time...
I would guess that to be heavier. Same thing that an internal beadlock does, too. I thought Staun was still making them as well, but they're not really show up other than install instructions.
 
I would guess that to be heavier. Same thing that an internal beadlock does, too. I thought Staun was still making them as well, but they're not really show up other than install instructions.

Because they suck and nobody bothers with them anymore for reasons listed below and many more.

My experience with internal beadlocks was not a great experience. They suck balls. Were a pain in the ass to install and you have to have two valve stems. One has to somehow allow air around the inner boot, which in my case was about never. I finally just got sick of fighting them and went regular beadlocks.

I’d be inclined to make weld ons with those wheels. Your experience may vary. But there’s a reason nobody runs em.:laughing:
 
Something like this with 6" back spacing so you can run a spacer/adapter and get the backspacing exactly where you want it.

Screenshot_20241107_232924_Samsung Internet.jpg
 
Sticking with steel.
All internal beadlocks. You are literally the first person I've heard ask or talk about those in several years. They all work the same way and they all suck.
There's two posts on here about them just this year :laughing:
 
Buy a set and let us know how much you hate them. :laughing:

I'm still trying to figure out why you need any kind of beadlock on a Subaru with 31s. Rally cars don't have beadlocks and seem to do just fine. :confused:
 
Youre just gona blow up the trans.

How much airing down are you gon do on a subaru?
10psi? On a 2500lb car?

Why do you think you even need any sort of lock at all?
 
I wonder if you could do the tire in a tire thing like JR4X does with his race tires? Then technically you would have internal double beadlocks and a run flat at the same time...
I wouldn’t do that unless you were using a real aluminum beadlock. Definitely not a weld on beadlock steelie.

I don’t understand the application or necessity OP :confused: is this a drag racer?
 
I'd go with a cheap single beadlock over internal beadlocks in a street car.

Inner Air Lock used to make some. IDK if he has 15s or not. I wouldn't want to mess with them on a street rig for balancing issues at high speeds.
 
Wouldn't a few wraps of gorilla tape on the inner and outer bead accomplish what the OPs doing with that small of a tire?
not to mention, 15's usually have a pretty pronounced safety bead. On something like that, wrap some tape, or glue the bead and party on...
 
Wonder if it's cuz the rim is gonna be so narrow?... what about just gluing the beads and calling it good?

But it's suburu math lol
just shove screws through the rims haha
 
I can't imagine needing any sort of beadlock for the OP's use case, but for others that find this thread, I'll share what I do:

Polyurethane roofing sealant. It works great, and costs next to nothing. I ran 39.5" Pitbulls on a set of Dick Cepek wheels for years with this on both the inner and outer beads, and never lost a bead or even burped air. This was on 4800lb rig down below 4psi. When I moved to Racelines - so I could mount my own tires - I used it on the inner beads. It makes it tough to break the bead - obviously, as that's the point - but is not hard to remove from either the wheel or tire bead if you need to.

Mark
 
I can't imagine needing any sort of beadlock for the OP's use case, but for others that find this thread, I'll share what I do:

Polyurethane roofing sealant. It works great, and costs next to nothing. I ran 39.5" Pitbulls on a set of Dick Cepek wheels for years with this on both the inner and outer beads, and never lost a bead or even burped air. This was on 4800lb rig down below 4psi. When I moved to Racelines - so I could mount my own tires - I used it on the inner beads. It makes it tough to break the bead - obviously, as that's the point - but is not hard to remove from either the wheel or tire bead if you need to.

Mark
Back in around 1998 or 99 there was a guy here in Phoenix doing 'rock locks'...that were basically just a built up fiberglass/resin ring on the inner and outer beads similar to what you're talking about. Worked like a charm. Ran 'em for a couple years, never lost another bead....eventually gave the set away....and they worked for several years for the new owner; lost touch so I can't say if they are still in use.
 
Top Back Refresh