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Ingersoll rand engine drive compressor, maybe from 1943?

Good work keep it up. But this is from a guy who rebuilt a vacuum advance instead of dealing with a parts counter jockey.
 
@486 reminds me of someone else I know. He is the "You gotta work on shit to work on shit" guy in my circle of friends....

Want to change your oil, no problem. We just gotta empty the junk engine parts im saving for another build out of the drain pan before we patch the hole in the bottom of it. Once that's done and cooling off I'll start on making a new band for this broken filter wrench I bought at a yard sale for 5 cents 3 years ago. Oh and don't mind the creeping floor jack, I got a good deal on it. If you jack it up fast enough and stuff a couple jack stands under the frame before the car comes back down on your head it's hardly noticeable..... :laughing:

:flipoff2:
I call that "we've gotta fix shit, to fix shit, to fix shit":laughing:

I try really hard to not be like that
 
Good work keep it up. But this is from a guy who rebuilt a vacuum advance instead of dealing with a parts counter jockey.
people think buying parts is easy
lots of times its way easier to just fix what you've got rather than needing to figure out what model/revision/number you got, track shit down and wait for it to show up
I call that "we've gotta fix shit, to fix shit, to fix shit":laughing:
I try really hard to not be like that
why not? nobody ever borrows my shit

ETA: it rained real hard and it didn't start so I let it dry for a few hours and then ran it just about the rest of the day powering a rivet buster to break up some concrete
really don't need an air tool oiler with these things, it soaked my hands in oil/condensate snot lol
p100 pancake filters also don't seem to take out all the oil mist, really gotta get me some proper cartridge filters for that shit
found someone saying to run SAE20 oil in these waukesha motors, I'd believe it with how its got (off scale) PSI of oil pressure. Drained about half the 5w30 and topped it up with some "used for 500 miles" 0w20 that I got at work back when I changed oil on old people's cars sometimes. Still has a fuckton of oil pressure.
 
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Stuck the hood on it, made some shitty angle iron brackets because I didn't have all the cool sheetmetal like m92 has
oh and torched a hole for the muffler since the existing hole was both too small and in the wrong place
guess they mighta had a piece between the radiator cowl and the hood because the mounting bolts were also in the wrong places

oh well, it's likely how it'll be until it dies. Might blob a patch over the old hole to keep the rain off the plug wires. Might also stick one of them storm collar things onto the muffler to keep the rain from going down that hole...
 
why not? nobody ever borrows my shit
I wasn't busting your balls, you seem to buy broken stuff and fix it quickly, I'm talking about the people that run their tools into the ground and waste productivity, or better yet, damage what they've got. A week ago I paid a guy the going rate to move an empty 40' connex, he had a nice container trailer with a 12k warn winch and a decent enough dodge dually with a fresh trans. But since he never straightened out his trailer battery and charging....
We're over there running his winch off his home owner grade jumper cables jiggling the wires
Which eventually will lead to a burnt up winch motor...:homer:
 
so the amount of oil this thing is spewing is absolutely killing me, p100 filters in my 3m respirator don't catch it good enough
most modern oil separators seem to be a vortex thing like the oneida dust separators, then they run the air through a pleated cloth filter element to condense the rest of the vapor

I'm thinking about filling an old water heater 3/4 or so with pea gravel
air goes in through the temperature sensing gas valve port (6" above the tank drain port) and comes out either at the top from the hot water port (cold has a diptube) or possibly from the blowoff port in the side 6" from the top of the tank

Figuring the gravel might condense the oil vapors good enough. Might also get a real big primary fuel filter with a drain cock and run it through that after the big tank if the oil vapor is still an issue. Should act like the factory solution...

Thoughts?
 
I'm thinking about filling an old water heater 3/4 or so with pea gravel
air goes in through the temperature sensing gas valve port (6" above the tank drain port) and comes out either at the top from the hot water port (cold has a diptube) or possibly from the blowoff port in the side 6" from the top of the tank

Figuring the gravel might condense the oil vapors good enough. Might also get a real big primary fuel filter with a drain cock and run it through that after the big tank if the oil vapor is still an issue. Should act like the factory solution...

Thoughts?
I would get some lengths of 4" PVC DWV pipe stick couplers and adapters on the end and run your air flow through there in order to test filter media before you fill up a whole water heater. They can hold 120psi. We all built potato cannons with those 4" DWV in high school and had no failures.

I think the dip tube would probably make the best inlet since that will make the air flow through the most gravel on the way out. I think your problem is going to be that you saturate the gravel with enough oil to make your air oily but not enough that you open the drain valve overnight and it's gone.

What machinery are you using this to drive in an enclosed space? Can you tap the exhaust for a fitting (or booger weld a bung on) and then run a hose back outside? While that would be more time consuming if you have multiple tools you need to do it to that would get 100% of the oil out of your face guaranteed.
 
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