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Ingersoll rand engine drive compressor, maybe from 1943?

[486]

[486]

smells things
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
94
Messages
5,223
Loc
pine city MN
it's orange
it has three cylinders arranged to be in two stages with inter-stage cooling, but no aftercooling
it's got a flat head waukesha FC-206 four cylinder with a zenith carb and (thank god) points ignition
according to a dataplate on it they could also come with a magneto, and I don't want that kind of fragile in my life
only date I could find was on the tank, 1943
can't find a model number on the compressor head anywhere
I've got the hood for it in the truck, didn't come with any sort of supports for the non-radiator end so I'll have to fab something up along with welding a pintle ring on the tongue and replacing the tires with something... balder but less likely to explode
it came with the blaster pot and its only got a bypass oil filter which is kind of interesting
alternator's stampings say 12v and neg ground so that's way nice
tstat is inline with the upper rad hose which is also kinda interesting in an archaic kinda way

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anyways, just got it filed the points and got it to cough on brake clean, fuel pump doesn't seem to be pumping yet but I'm sure its fairly easily fixable, looks like it all comes apart
cleaned the carburetor and file-fit the throttle butterfly, looked like someone used a bench grinder poorly to get it to smush in there, the sides are still a little loose but at least more air should be going past the idle port than before where the opposite side had a lumpy 1/32" of clearance when the idle port side was hard up against the body

anyone got any sorta info on this sorta shit? google of course only wants to sell me official IR brand IR parts and brand new official IR accessories to go with my brand new production official IR compressor

I can see where its got an unloader valve that goes to the two LP cylinders' intake valves but the HP cylinder doesn't seem to have any kind of unloader
maybe one of the valves sticking outta the tank is a blow-off valve that just dumps what the HP cylinder makes. There's an air-actuated idler cylinder thing, I assume it'll push past the governor's springs and return the throttle to idle when "set pressure" is reached.
Gonna be very careful when closing the drain valves the first few times, all the unloader, idler and safety valve shit might be stuck or broke.
 
Is that tank 1/2 fuel, 1/2 volume tank for air?

I'd pull one of those plugs in the volume tank and look for rust inside. 1943 was a long time ago. According to the data plate, the tank was only .125"...........in 1943.
 
they're actually two totally separate tanks, just they stuck on one of the fuel tank heads inside out so they nest real nice

will be looking in it when I put new fittings on it, it'll be getting claw couplings because they seem to be the norm

all the tanks I've patched seem to develop pinholes without tearing apart catastrophically
though this guy has a bit more schnozz than the disposable compressors that I'm usually welding patches onto, where they'd never build their rated 175 psi while leaking this thing I can imagine will do 100 psi with a 3/8" hole in that tank
 
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[486] said:
they're actually two totally separate tanks, just they stuck on one of the fuel tank heads inside out so they nest real nice
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I love little details like that. Todays machinery has no class, every single part being plasma-ed then bent to shape, nothing cast or forged.

My 404 has the same archaic t-stat.
unimog t-stat.jpg
 
Rusty tanks just leak. Oily tanks explode. I wouldn't even check it other than checking the drain for oil. Knowing it's rusty is just an unnecessary source of stress. :laughing:
 
2020AT4 said:
Today I found out that magnetos are fragile.:emb:
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they're little blobs of mass confusion
injection pumps are relatively easy to work on once you get into them
magnetos are fucking clockwork magic, what with the snappy springy bits that make it so you can hand crank start the shit and the li'l coils and magnets and shit

ETA: pulled the fuel pump off and figured out it wasn't pumping because the diaphragm was putting the varnish into the crankcase
also pulled one of the hubs and cut off the tractor drawbar bits
turns out the spindles are old enough that its got ball bearings instead of rollers
 
well reply #7 is full of shit, don't listen to anything he has to say, all he ever does is talk out his ass about shit he has no fucking clue about
fuel pump diaphragm is actually fine

I think I remember pouring gasoline out of the "lever arm" side of the pump because I was rinsing the stinky poop out before putting it in the car
wish I'd taken pics of the amount of rust that was in the pump itself though, lol it has a separator bowl, but the screen was torn and that pump was PACKED with rusty schmoop, washed it all out and the inlet valve was rusted apart
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got to looking at it and thinking with my thinker and the discharge valve is the same piece
the discharge valve orientation is much more conducive to a nonstandard solution as well, so I stuck the discharge valve in the inlet hole, then took a 1/4" washer, hammered a ball bearing into its hole to make a good seat and assembled that for the discharge valve
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glued them in there with anaerobic sealer because their bores were pretty badly pitted, and any leakage past the bore is leakage past the valves
cut out a new screen and punched the center hole with a steel 9x19 case
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didn't have the right seal for the bowl so looked for an o-ring, didn't have a good size one of those either, so grabbed one of the hundreds of cartridge-style oil filter o-rings I saved from work and spliced it shorter to fit
the secret is a good square cut, superglue, then after curing the glue under water you sand the joint with sandpaper until the excess glue is gone and any step from misalignment is removed

we'll see tomorrow if it works out

ran the shit today off the cutting torch, really convenient way of metering propane into the intake, that
it runs great, had a couple exhaust valves stuck open, but a couple taps on them through the spark plug holes freed them right up
was running strong, the oil pressure gauge reads 20 at rest and is pegged at 80 when its running, so call it 60 psi?
nutted up and closed the tank drain valves and hey it even makes pressure, it gets up to about 90 PSI then the unloader circuit makes a chirp and it unloads and at the same time the cylinder under the carb backs the throttle off a little bit
sorta does a hunting thing with a period of a couple seconds, I'm sure it could be adjusted out or it might get better when air is being used
both the safety valves (on the tank and on the intercooler) have blow down levers on them and I fingered both of them and they ejaculated some mud dauber nests so they should be operational now
all in all pretty cool, can't wait to try it on gasoline
 
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billybob_81067 said:
Good on you for trying to make the fuel pump work. I woulda slapped a block off plate on it and threw a 12v electric fuel pump on there. :flipoff2:
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Why even have a pump? I'd abandon the real cool tank thats on it and just stick a second lawnmower tank up high enough that it'd gravity feed.

Only reason I put in the effort is that the fuel tank thats on it is way cool, and the separator bowl on the pump is cool too.
 
Well, fuel pump is leaking, but it is oil from the crankcase pressure dripping down the priming lever. Kinda annoying as there's no good way to seal up the shit as its just a bent wire bale. Maybe I should stuff some of that copper scrubbing pad stuff in the pump's lever cavity so it separates out some of the oil mist...

Anyways, runs on gasoline. It is really hard to get fired when cold, had to use the propane to get it warmed up before it'd run on the gasoline. It was pouring gasoline out of the updraft carb's intake, but it just needed a a little more fuel than that apparently.
Even running winter blend gasoline that is quickly destroying my jerry cans with its high vapor pressure...

It actually lacks power more on the gasoline somehow. Will not make 90 PSI and unload itself, I have to open a tank valve and let it struggle along at 70 psi or thereabouts.
Usually motors de-rate on propane by a good bit. Maybe its just the terrible vaporization of the gasoline? Its strange, I can get it to stall out on the lean side with the adjustment screw, but I can adjust the carb so rich that it is dripping gasoline out the carb's drain holes while its running and it will not stall out (or even start to lose power).
Anyways, might be thinking about sticking a propane kit onto it.

Just had the idea to check for vacuum leaks. Maybe the intake gasket is gone, intake and exhaust are one casting and it certainly has the outer two cylinders' exhaust manifold runners broken off...
 
If you cant fatten it up and there's fuel running out then yes, its not atomizing correctly or there could still be a blockage in the carb.

Or a leak as you mentioned. Hit the manifold with either (Dont blow yourself up) and see of there's any change.
 
montrose818 said:
dude. WHY
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$200

oh and the fpump diaphragm is indeedidilydoo leaking
so... I dunno if I wanna bother to replace the diaphragm, stick an elevated tank on it, or just feed it propane whenever I wanna run it

I'm kinda leaning toward tapping a 1/4NPT port in the cast iron air filter adapter and just putting propane to it semi-permanently like that.
Got a proper impco regulator/converter laying around, maybe just use a turkey fryer regulator because of how well the cutting torch is doing.
 
dude you are bored. seriously. I rather shove things up my butthole than work on ancient stuff like this.

Ill send you 200 dollars. pick a better project. :homer::flipoff2:
 
montrose818 said:
dude you are bored. seriously. I rather shove things up my butthole than work on ancient stuff like this.

Ill send you 200 dollars. pick a better project. :homer::flipoff2:
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You send me $200 and I'll pretend like I stopped working on this guy. :flipoff2:

ETA: I've needed a bigger compressor for like a decade. Not enough to pay what a proper turnkey one goes for, though.
 
montrose818 said:
why not look for a Quincy 325? how much cfm do you need??
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I've got some larger stuff like a rivet buster and a blasting pot that I'd like to be able to use somewhat portably.

I'm always on the lookout for deals on electric compressors, but I tend to end up parting them out for stupid money. For whatever stupid reason bare tanks go for more money than complete compressors around here. Must be a bunch of retards trying to make a project out of nothing in the twin cities.

guess what I'm getting at is that electric and engine drive are two different tools for two different purposes

ETA: Kinda like welders. You don't run an engine drive when you're at home, and you don't load up a transformer machine and a genset when you wanna weld out in the wild.
 
@486 reminds me of someone else I know. He is the "You gotta work on shit to work on shit" guy in my circle of friends....

Want to change your oil, no problem. We just gotta empty the junk engine parts im saving for another build out of the drain pan before we patch the hole in the bottom of it. Once that's done and cooling off I'll start on making a new band for this broken filter wrench I bought at a yard sale for 5 cents 3 years ago. Oh and don't mind the creeping floor jack, I got a good deal on it. If you jack it up fast enough and stuff a couple jack stands under the frame before the car comes back down on your head it's hardly noticeable..... :laughing:

:flipoff2:
 
SLOWPOKE693 said:
@486 reminds me of someone else I know. He is the "You gotta work on shit to work on shit" guy in my circle of friends....

Want to change your oil, no problem. We just gotta empty the junk engine parts im saving for another build out of the drain pan before we patch the hole in the bottom of it. Once that's done and cooling off I'll start on making a new band for this broken filter wrench I bought at a yard sale for 5 cents 3 years ago. Oh and don't mind the creeping floor jack, I got a good deal on it. If you jack it up fast enough and stuff a couple jack stands under the frame before the car comes back down on your head it's hardly noticeable..... :laughing:

:flipoff2:
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Hey I resemble that! :flipoff2:

The other day I had to put a loader back together that I was working on in order to get it off the concrete and a tractor that I needed to work on onto the concrete so I could pressure wash it and swap out the hydraulic pump and then pick up hay the next day. It's constantly like that around here. A shit ton of projects that I need to do and then there's always one or two emergency projects that need to be done right now... And I usually have something else in the way that I gotta move in order to work on the emergency project. :emb:
 
SLOWPOKE693 said:
@486 reminds me of someone else I know. He is the "You gotta work on shit to work on shit" guy in my circle of friends....
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everything's a process, I've spent more time taking/editing/uploading pictures of this shit than working on it to give an idea of time spent
2020AT4 said:
Should be able to find one in the closest mirror.:flipoff2:
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sorry, I'll call up my bank and get a loan immediately on a brand new compressor/truck/house so that I can sit on the couch and drink beer while watching sportsball

do you masturbate to the thought of people with older tools being minorly inconvenienced from time to time?
 
[486] said:
everything's a process, I've spent more time taking/editing/uploading pictures of this shit than working on it to give an idea of time spent

sorry, I'll call up my bank and get a loan immediately on a brand new compressor/truck/house so that I can sit on the couch and drink beer while watching sportsball

do you masturbate to the thought of people with older tools being minorly inconvenienced from time to time?
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A bit touchy maybe?:homer:

I don’t think I’ve ever bought a new machine, but you’re not going to last long burning all the candles from every end.

BTDT, got all the tee shirts.
 
So, finally got around to ordering some diaphragm rubber from mcmaster
btw, if you're looking for npt chicago claw fittings they've got BSPT ones for what looks like half price, they work fine with NPT with a couple extra wraps of teflon tape

so fuel pump got a new diaphragm cut out and installed
it actually started and ran great on gasoline, still kinda lacks power maybe, but maybe its just that the pressure gauge isn't working and its going well over the 90 psi that the gauge is saying. Dunno. Do gotta take the gauges apart, the OP gauge needs a bit of needle readjustment and the tank pressure gauge needs cleaning and resealing because now its full of water. Also should fix the hood that's currently just laying on it unfastened. Should also change the compressor oil as its at least 40 years old according to the PO

replaced the one cloth insulated spark plug wire that was arcing all over

tomorrow should be giving it a workout with a rivet buster knocking apart some of the old foundation that came under the house

ETA: oh right, adjusted the idle-cylinder dingus that shoves against the throttle when it unloads, it wasn't pushing far enough so the revs would still be up at full governed speed, cut the bracket and moved it 1/2" down so the flapper arm should push the throttle further

ETA2: https://irate4x4.com/threads/ cool-old-iron-in-your-hood.31947/page-7 #post-498498 so I can find it again
 
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[486] said:
it actually started and ran great on gasoline, still kinda lacks power maybe, but maybe its just that the pressure gauge isn't working and its going well over the 90 psi that the gauge is saying. Dunno. Do gotta take the gauges apart, the OP gauge needs a bit of needle readjustment and the tank pressure gauge needs cleaning and resealing because now its full of water. Also should fix the hood that's currently just laying on it unfastened. Should also change the compressor oil as its at least 40 years old according to the PO
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Are they 2.5" panel mount gauges? If so, Surplus Center has them for under $6 each in a 0-200PSI flavor: 200 PSI 2.5" Flange Dry Gauge | Pressure & Vacuum Gauges | Pressure Gauges | Air & Pneumatics | www.surpluscenter.com

Aaron Z
 
those are some crappy looking gauges
I think they're a 2" hole and I've got replacements I could drop right in
I'll just fiddle around with these ancient ones, I... end up fixing gauges a lot more often than I really should.
Besides, why replace anything that can be fuckulated into working for a little bit longer? Makes for a nice break between digging and concreting.
arse_sidewards said:
Welcome to the dark side. :laughing:
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I don't understand, other than the 5 degree difference in threadform and the slightly smaller overall dimensions (they seem to tighten up a little deeper than normal when fitted to NPT) what is the reasoning for it being bad?
 
[486] said:
I don't understand, other than the 5 degree difference in threadform and the slightly smaller overall dimensions (they seem to tighten up a little deeper than normal when fitted to NPT) what is the reasoning for it being bad?
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Less mechanical engagement between the threads so when you build some 10kpsi hydraulic shit using bottom dollar fittings you're at risk of shit blowing apart or if you're a lazy plumber who puts 1.5 wraps of tape on shit your shit will leak because that's not enough tape to plug the bigger hole.

For the purposes of 99% of people on this board the threads are compatible.
 
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