Also a sure way to have to work around someone else's design decisions that might not be ideal for you.
The reason we designed and/or built complete bulkheads for the racers was to keep everything exactly where it needs to be for proper geometry. If we just give measurements of where to place things (mere suggestions) and the builder moves something 1/2" off, it could really effect the performance. And that actually happened on an early IFS. We sent the files, sent the placement dimensions, the builder mounted it 1/2"-ish off because they didn't want to work around our changes...... AND the car lost quite a bit of steering angle. Little things make big changes.
Plus they're building a buggy, it's a lot easier to add in a prefabbed bulkhead to a buggy, especially if it's rear engined.
You can't buy a cheap IFS for a trail beater.
Not yet you can't, but there are some people working on it.
The guy who designs a buggy IFS that isn't quite competitive can still turn around and build something that is more than adequate for a trail rig or daily driver.
Exactly! This is all about doing it yourself and people can design and build their own IFS. This is the same as 4-links. 20 years ago 4-links were black magic, now everyone and their uncle is an "expert".
And just for the record, no, I don't think I could build something that worked as well my first try. I plan to do this in Solidworks first and then possibly 3d-print a working model to get it as good as I can before I commit though.
Looking forward to seeing what you come up with JJ.
The best advice I could give anyone is to think of IFS as a more complicated 4-link. Many of the rules apply, just a little differently.
I mentioned it earlier - for anyone wanting to build a trail IFS, grab either a Toyota 1st gen IFS ('86-94) or a GM 3500 IFS (2001-2010), depending on tire size wants/needs. Both of those IFS' work pretty good and will travel decently once you stretch them out. Toyota and Chevy spent $$$$$ engineering their suspensions, use their engineering know-how.
You can pick them up fairly cheap and have everything there to start with, then copy the geometry. Start out by narrowing the center diff or use a different narrower center (8.8, 9", Yugo or whatever you want), then bring in the frame mounting points the same distance that you narrowed up the center. Then either stretch the OE arms or build new longer arms.
If you keep the keep the relation of the a-arm pivot points and steering pivot points to their prospective CV centerlines, you can move everything else around. Narrow up the center, stretch out the a-arms. Want to stay cheap? Use factory components and upgrade as your funds allow. Want to go all blingy with high dollar stuff? Then do it.
The beauty of doing it this way is you are already using an existing design that works and it will fit all pocketbooks AND more importantly, if you pay attention to what you are building and changing, you will learn the basics of IFS design or as
arse_sidewards alluded to you will acquire experience.