What's new

ID bearing in oil pan

I recently bough all the rebuild parts for an engine and it was under $600 even after I spent an extra $100 on a fancy MLS gasket and $300 on stainless race car valves/springs/etc.

There's no way to spend $900 on a domestic smallblock without going out of one's way to waste money, buying a bunch of aftermarket parts for the top end or replacing pistons/rods.
I’m sure you would have to add a cam in your price. With the way the bearings looked I’m sure the journals are fucked.
 
Everything is expensive:

Screenshot 2023-11-27 082031.png

Screenshot 2023-11-27 082046.png

Screenshot 2023-11-27 082219.png


I forgot to order the starter solenoid I brought it here to fix.

Still need trans mount, trans input seal, pcv, a bunch of hardware, and I am wrestling with the LUK clutch that is in it since it looks "pretty" good.

Leave the stock cam, right?
 
I just looked closely at the cam and there is porosity on the lobes I don't like.

Any recommendations to replace? Cheaply?

Looking closer this cam is fuckered.
 
Drain plug? Motor mounts? Fan clutch? Hoses? The fuck

There's a lot of shit in there you don't really need if the truck is generally fine but needs a longblock.
 
Leaking, broken, stuck on, leaking

What do you want me to do?

Send it out leaking and overheating after giving away 3 weeks of my free time?
 
There's preventative maintenance and then there's firing the parts cannon for no good reason. If this truck is already worth jack shit then the motor mount it drove in on will be fine.

If you can't tell if a hose is probably good enough for another 5yr or not just from how it looks and feels you have no business installing cam bearings.
 
If you can't tell if a hose is probably good enough for another 5yr or not just from how it looks and feels you have no business installing cam bearings.
Re-use 34 year old radiator hoses, $38 dollars removed from the $900 spent, got it:

PXL_20231127_161908735.MP.jpg

Any recommendations on the cam? Weld up and grind the lobes back?
 
Re-use 34 year old radiator hoses, $38 dollars removed from the $900 spent, got it:
:shaking: Fine then. Replace it. You're intentionally missing the forest for the trees. Surely there's shit you can strike from that $880 dollar list.

You can save nearly $100 by acting like an adult instead of a gorilla and simply not breaking bolts off in the timing cover or extracting them if you do. The studs that are the problem will press right through the cover if you snap them off since they don't engage the cover with threads.

Bearing in the pan says cam work was done. So maybe don't buy the timing set unless until you put eyes on the one that's in there because maybe the last guy replaced it for you.

Why are you touching the thermostat if the one that's in there is working fine? They're one of those parts that doesn't really fail with rhyme or reason. You're probably more likely to have the new one be garbage in a month than the old one is to fail in the same time period.


At my stage in life if I am taking parts off the fix something, more often than not it’s going back as new parts.
Cheaping out is a skill. If you can afford to just fire the parts cannon and grow accustomed to doing so the skill will atrophy. This thread is a good example of that.
 
Anyone recommend a cam for this injected truck engine? Something mild available?
 
Questions I have for you on the parts list:

Timing cover
Engine Gasket Kit does NOT include Oil Pan Gasket? you've got the pan gasket on a separate line
Radiator Fan Clutch
Piston Rings
Oil Pump
Valve Lifters

all of the above parts are highly likely to be reusable, if you don't pop the pistons out, you won't be looking at the rings or curious about their condition. Sounds like the motor was losing most of the goo to the outside, insides prolly good.

and I don't know what the tune-up kit entails
 
Anyone recommend a cam for this injected truck engine? Something mild available?

$140 camshaft, going for value here


$218 and this has the lowest lift for the next step up, still far more than the $140 cam
 
New flat tappet cams suck.
There is about a 75% chance it will wipe a lobe off during break in.
 
New flat tappet cams suck.
There is about a 75% chance it will wipe a lobe off during break in.
I've always wondered if new cam on old lifters would fare better than new cam on new lifters since the old lifters presumably already have the right wear pattern going and should spin even if the cam is dead flat.
 
The internet says a Comp 35-512-8 is a good choice for this computer controlled stock engine, but I get to deal with the roller lifter and firing order conversion.

This block is drilled for the spider to keep the roller lifters in place.
 
If you can't tell if a hose is probably good enough for another 5yr or not just from how it looks and feels you have no business installing cam bearings.

Armed with your encouraging words and a cam bearing tool (that I spent $200 on :flipoff2:) I have successfully removed my first set of cam bearings:

5137638130196809788.jpg
 
Last edited:
I’ve seen engines run with milkshake in them until they didn’t run anymore and the cam bearings didn’t look that bad. :laughing:
 
More money wasted, scored new US made (like my new cam bearing tool) injectors for a song.
 

Attachments

  • PXL_20231202_160101265.jpg
    PXL_20231202_160101265.jpg
    2.3 MB · Views: 11
Top Back Refresh