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I keep melting plug wires (v8 s10)

_stucky

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I have an axle swapped 04 4 door s10 pickup, with a vortec 5.7 from a 99 van, with a set of Sanderson headers. Conveniently enough, I currently am not finding a part number or link to the headers in question. Anyways, I keep burning the boot for the rear most passenger side plug wire.

I have tried some of the insulated covers. They barely can squeeze between the boot and header, and touch the header, which seems to transmit the heat, and burn the boot even faster than without the cover.

I have searched for a good set of plug wires that will work with the flat cap on the vortec distributor, and have come up with nothing.

I have tried to dent the header for clearance around the spark plug, with no real change.

When I say it burns the boot, I mean it usually happens within like 20 minutes of driving. Doesn’t burn the wire, only the boot. I’m using off the shelf junk wires from Oriellys. I can use 6 from a vortec 350 set, and have to take the 2 longest ones from a vortec 454 set, swap the ends to the 90 degree boots, for the front 2 to go around the headers.

The headers, the passenger side one has been nothing but headaches. My exhuast guy has chopped the bottom end off and reconfuckulated it so I can get my hands in there for the bolts at the collector. It was very tight where the gasket goes, that is now like a foot further down.

So my questions are, is there a header available with better clearance for the plug wire, and/or is there a set of quality spark plug wires that will work with the vortec distributor?

I can get pics if necessary.
 
Have you tried shorter plugs? I know accell makes some super short ones but I think there is a autolite equivalent for less money.

Otherwise you are spacing headers away from the engine which makes for gasket nightmares.

Maybe build custom plug wires but that sounds like a short term solution.

Different set of headers?
 
I ran into this using shorty headers on an LS engine. I ended up using plug wires with ceramic ends at the plugs.
Resolved the problem.
 
Can you use manifolds or does the area/hp requirements stop this.

Seemed like headers are always a pain with leaking and heat
 
I have not tried any metal shields, or shorter plugs. The factory 5.7 shields weren’t going to work when I was putting this all together 2 years ago.

I do have an intrepid fan on a stock radiator that is turned on by the computer.

My brother has a set of aftermarket wires (I forget brand) that I could probably grab a boot from to try. The wires I’m using are 7mm, pretty sure the others are a lot bigger. So I’m not sure how well the boot will fit the wire. Now that I think about it maybe it doesn’t matter. But that has crossed my mind, but never tried it.

As for manifolds, one could be made to work on the passenger side I’m sure. But for the drivers side the steering shaft has 2 of the tubes going around it. Everything is tight everywhere.

The 5.7 has a cam and lifters and springs and a couple other things, but it’s nothing crazy. Running the factory vortec 5.7 intake and throttle body etc etc
 
I meant like a small blower fan blowing directly on the problem area, ducted, if need be.
 
Uhm, is that a serious suggestion? I do understand that it could work.... but that is not what I want to do haha
 
Is some mild persuasion with a mini sledge an option to get you a little more room?
 
That could be the answer. I really need to get it out to accomplish that.
 
Shorty accel plugs... ball peen hammer and smack your high dollar headers a bit.. I had to in 1995 Sanderson street rod headers for s10 probably hitting in same spot even ran Taylor pro wire cut and fit and crimp wire set then seemed to be the most clearance because of boot design.. also ran heat sleeve as well...

And yes very serious about being persuasive with ball peen 🔨!!
 
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Uhm, is that a serious suggestion? I do understand that it could work.... but that is not what I want to do haha

Fine, yank that POS ohv thing out of there and put something in that has spark plugs up top. you’re welcome :flipoff2:
 
Ive wrapped them with tin foil before, definitely isn't the fanciest option. But worked just fine when I didn't have the nice heat boot/sleeve available. May or may not have stayed on there long term...:grinpimp:
 


Screenshot_20230614_201515_Chrome.jpg
 
That looks like the winner! I don’t know how you found them, but summit told me when I was putting this together that no one made what I needed. My only concern with that is if the longest 2 are long enough for the front 2. I will order them soon. Thanks!

Will those melt if the boot is touching the header? Or should I get the shorty plugs too? I think I will get the header out and dent it more too. I have another project I’ve been focusing on, so not sure when this will happen. But soon.

I forgot to mention it in the first post, but one of the other things I had thought about and couldn’t find is, does anyone make a different distributor cap that can use standard wires with 90 degree boots at the distributor?

I guess I’ll scrap the dryer ducting and computer fan idea...
 
Shorty accel plugs as well get them boots ceramic or not as far away from Header as you can.. think air gap!! The more clearance the better.

Will also add this thread is useless with out pics of v8 mini truck
 
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IMG_0127.jpeg


This is the one that keeps melting the boot. I thought I had a melted boot to show but looks like I threw them away. I’m sure if I took it to town I could show one later….
 
These should stop them from burning and also protect some of the wire as well:


I know you stated you used something like this, but not all are created equal. And even through it hasn't burned the wire as of yet, how long before the wire shows damage.

In addition, I would just get rid of those headers for for the amount of trouble they're giving you. They're not worth the time nor effort you have put into them so far.

Good luck... :beer:
 
I ordered the wires last night. Haven’t ordered the shorty plugs yet, they are 20$ each on summit.

The protect-a-boots, yea I had some cheap ones. I’m not sure how to describe it, but when I had one on that wire, it would touch the tube. Eventually, it made the cover discolored and the actual feel of the material went from kinda stiff to very soft, but only where it was touching. I ended up taking them all off. Also they were cheapies.

On the plug wires, I spent way too long trying to find a set like that 2 years ago. Whoever I talked to at summit back then also spent quite a while trying to find them and ended up telling me no one makes any for a vortec. I thought that seemed odd, but what do I know.

Anyways, I’ll order the plugs in the near future as well. If I remember right, I have to take both headers off to get all the spark plugs in/out. So while it’s off, I’ll dent it up more too. I suspect it will be a week or 2 until I get it together. I have a brand spankin’ new baby and 2 projects happening.
 
This is my 93 c3500

These headers move a little further from the block.
 
Plugs have been here for a while, but the wires finally shipped yesterday. Other project is almost drivable, so should be getting back to this soon.

Is there a good reason I can’t find anyone that will tune the factory 04 4.3 s10 ecm for the 5.7? It’s the blue/green 2 plug style. Everyone says I have to have the red/green, which is fine except for the red/green that’s in there now seems to have a couple issues communicating with the truck. It won’t turn the fan on with the ac (I’m told that was an 02+ thing, so I probably have an earlier one), and it won’t show what gear I have selected on the dash (which is odd to me since if I plug in the factory one it lights right up). Maybe a couple other things, it’s been almost a year since I have driven it.

I don’t care what colors the connectors are, I just want it to all work as it should. The local guy that sold me the red/green ecm and tuned it, I really don’t think he gave it enough time to dial it in. Then when there were issues he stopped answering the phone. I’ve called a couple different places and they all tell me they can’t do what I need to the blue/green ecm.
 
Some of the later blue/green ecms are not backward compatible to run drive by cable.
 
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