What's new
By:
Filters

How much Battery should I buy?

CDA 455 II said:
Really?

'94 XL 5.0L with A/C🤷‍♂️
Click to expand...
Not sure about the 5.0s. but when I deleted the smog pump on my 351, there was two different accessories brackets that had the tensioner in different spots. The opposite one that I had was better for bypassing the pulley
 
arse_sidewards said:
It's the air filter for the smog pump. Throw it away and run a shorter belt that bypasses the pump if you haven't already. (Unless you live in CA or some other shithole that's doing visual inspections on 30yo trucks).
Click to expand...
For simplicity; what would happen if I just remove that filter and hose from the pump?
Maybe put a cone filter on the pump hose fitting?🤷‍♂️
Would it affect the engine operation?


And while I have your attention:grinpimp::
That 'baked beans' vacuum can next to said air filter/smog pump; does the vacuum care if a container is the size of the can, or the size of a '95 Ranger's small sphere/ball vacuum storage canister?
71uY5aMdGFL._AC_SL1500_.jpg
 
If you remove the filter the pump will eventually ingest enough crap to seize and then you'll throw a belt.

No, the system won't care if you use a more modern vacuum reservoir. Frankly it won't care if you don't run one at all.
 
arse_sidewards said:
If you remove the filter the pump will eventually ingest enough crap to seize and then you'll throw a belt.

No, the system won't care if you use a more modern vacuum reservoir. Frankly it won't care if you don't run one at all.
Click to expand...
1) So putting a small cone filter would be better than nothing/and cheap way to make space on the wheel well?

2) Really?:confused:
What's the vacuum reservoir for then?
Unplugging/removing the the can won't affect anything; just plug the vacuum lines?🤔


BTW; thanks for the response.:beer:
 
CDA 455 II said:
For clarity; My Bronco is an '94 5.0L MAF.

Your last point:
Are you referring to both the smog pump air filter and vacuum canister?
Click to expand...

Yes.

I'm not looking at one at the moment, but if IIRC... the canister is for evap. you'll probably need vacuum for FPR, couple other engine functions.
 
TRINDU said:
Yes.

I'm not looking at one at the moment, but if IIRC... the canister is for evap. you'll probably need vacuum for FPR, couple other engine functions.
Click to expand...

Ok; pull the vacuum tubes and cap them?✔️
Pull the long smog pump hose and air filter and cap the pump fitting with a small cone air filter?✔️
 
TRINDU said:
Yes.

the canister is for evap. you'll probably need vacuum for FPR, couple other engine functions.
Click to expand...
The canister is just a vac reservoir. He doesn't "need" it for anything unless the difference between 1.5 and 1.75 full presses of the brake or cycling between dash and defrost vents ten times after the engine stalls means a lot to him.
 
CDA 455 II said:
Ok; pull the vacuum tubes and cap them?✔️
Click to expand...
You need to look at the vacuum diagram and actually think about it. But yes, you'll probably either wind up capping them or just straight deleting a couple lines and connecting others.
CDA 455 II said:
Pull the long smog pump hose and air filter and cap the pump fitting with a small cone air filter?✔️
Click to expand...
Yes. Or just remove the pump entirely and run the shorter belt.
 
Here's my hood vacuum diagram:
20230202_142937.jpg


Trying to find where the 2 vac lines from the 'coffee can' canister goes.
Does it go to the vacuum tree?

On the diagram; is the 'CARBON CAN' the 'coffee can' canister?
 
vreser is the vacuum reservoir aka coffee can

delete the red line going from the vacuum manifold to the coffee can. Hook the black line up to the manifold in the spot you just freed up.

You'll probably have to just buy a length of generic vacuum hose online. The OEM plastic can't really be re-routed

carbon can is the charcoal canister aka evap canister.
 
CDA 455 II said:
SHOULD I BUY FROM AMAZON?
If it ships straight from Odyssey, then I will.

How was your Odyssey battery packed; with a strong box?
Was it even packed?😬

That's what I'm mainly concerned with ordering from Amazon: crappy packing where it arrives damaged.
Click to expand...
I wouldn’t worry about it arriving damaged, if it is Amazon will drop you another one without question.

When I had the parts store, I was selling batteries on Amazon and stopped because I got burnt on three different occasions. People would say it was damaged, give no proof, then get a refund and Amazon instructed them to dispose of the battery, they would not take them back….. so I stopped that shit
 
A battery is not something you wanna buy off any place that is gonna ship it via common carrier.

Buy your batteries at a wholesale store, yes it ships to that store but the less it ships the better.
 
Last edited:
Since I’m in the same boat (shopping for batteries)

Same question as OP, but what if your’re planning to run duals? Still get the best 2? ‘Good’ ones since there are 2?
 
Leadfoot21 said:
Get the everstart . There is zero reason to run anything more in a daily . Walmarts warranty is better than the expensive ones also more than likely .
Click to expand...
Thats been my feelings the last 10 years. Im disappointed in every expensive batterey when it finally dies.... but when my $60 everstart dies im only disappointed till I pull it out and read the date code is actually 5 years old.
 
Anyone have a preference in terminals ?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Back Refresh