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Hodge-Podge 609

Mine has been like this for 5 years and I haven't had any problems.

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A few scars on the ram mounts and superficial ram paint blemishes, but otherwise good.
Probably helps the axle is 63" WMS, so there is less room between the tires, but with the ram high and outta the way, it's been good. I have seen where some folks with the shelf model can push up on and slide over things that grab my tube mid span and I fight it sometimes. But maybe it's just 6 of one, half dozen of the other...
 
So I definitely fell off and went full production mode to get this thing whipped before Memorial weekend. All the housing tabs are 1/4" with a 1/8" weld washers tig welded on.

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Mocking up at ride height. I was hoping to get 6-1/2 to 7 in of bump.

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Full bump

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After wasting all your guy's time I decided to just run the ram mount as is and if an issue arises down the road, then I'll throw a bash bar on it. All welding wrapped up and paint getting slung on.

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3rd member bolted up and brake lines ran.

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mobil1syn said:
so fresh and so clean.

what are the details on the paint?
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Nothing special, it's just Krylon's metallic paint line. The housing is their black stainless color if I remember correctly and its very similar to the factory color they paint the newer Warn 8274 winches. I painted my dad's transmission with it a few months ago and fell in love with it. The knuckles are just silver metallic and everything else is just gloss black.
 
I was going to ask about the paint as well. Perfect axle color IMO. Looks great.
 
How much up travel did you end up with? And what is the final wms/wms?

Rattle can paint job came out sweet. Definitely looks like a lot more time and money went in to it.:beer:

Are those Aero6 calipers?
 
gt1guy said:
How much up travel did you end up with? And what is the final wms/wms?

Rattle can paint job came out sweet. Definitely looks like a lot more time and money went in to it.:beer:

Are those Aero6 calipers?
Click to expand...
I ended up with 6-3/4" of up travel without having to change the ride height. Windshield base/ hinge sits at 55-1/2" from ground on a 39x12.50 Kanati Mud hog with 20 lbs in the tires. Final WMS is 65".

Yes they are the Aero 6 calipers that are profiled with a little more curve to fit inside a 17" wheel better. We normally get their other caliper at work that you can run with the massive 15" rotors, but after overlaying a couple different wheel models it was too close for comfort and steel 17" beadlocks were completely out of the question. I believe these are the calipers that they offer with a Silverado brake upgrade kit.
 
Simple'72CJ said:
I ended up with 6-3/4" of up travel without having to change the ride height. Windshield base/ hinge sits at 55-1/2" from ground on a 39x12.50 Kanati Mud hog with 20 lbs in the tires. Final WMS is 65".

Yes they are the Aero 6 calipers that are profiled with a little more curve to fit inside a 17" wheel better. We normally get their other caliper at work that you can run with the massive 15" rotors, but after overlaying a couple different wheel models it was too close for comfort and steel 17" beadlocks were completely out of the question. I believe these are the calipers that they offer with a Silverado brake upgrade kit.
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I thought those calipers looked familiar. I've got the same for my pile. Using the larger piston ones in front with a 14.25" rotor and the smaller piston ones in the rear with 13" rotors.

I like the fact that you can stuff a .8" thick pad in them.
 
Simple'72CJ said:
A little caliper comparison and safety wiring the rotors

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Couple questions cause I'm in the same spot here right now.


Are those rotors floating on the hats? Doesn't look like it in the picture.

Assuming you used a radial mount adapter for the calipers? Does it have any movement in it?

What are your thoughts on having both the rotor and the caliper solid mounted?

I'm in the process of adapting my calipers (aero6 radial mount) to the factory D60 bracket, the rotors bolt directly to the spidertrax hats. No floating anywhere.

Then I started thinking about the road racing AP Racing brake setup I have and the rotors float.

I'm thinking it doesn't matter for what we're doing because we're not making our rotors glow red hot.

Wondering what your thoughts are on the subject.
 
gt1guy said:
Couple questions cause I'm in the same spot here right now.


Are those rotors floating on the hats? Doesn't look like it in the picture.

Assuming you used a radial mount adapter for the calipers? Does it have any movement in it?

What are your thoughts on having both the rotor and the caliper solid mounted?

I'm in the process of adapting my calipers (aero6 radial mount) to the factory D60 bracket, the rotors bolt directly to the spidertrax hats. No floating anywhere.

Then I started thinking about the road racing AP Racing brake setup I have and the rotors float.

I'm thinking it doesn't matter for what we're doing because we're not making our rotors glow red hot.

Wondering what your thoughts are on the subject.
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A little confused on your question about the floating hats? The hat is bolted to the rotor with the 12 fasteners that are then safety wired. There's no real concentric locating whatsoever so I assume Wilwood was confident in the hole tolerance to locate everything within an acceptable tolerance. The entire unit I guess would be considered "floating" since its really only located by the lug studs and held tight up against the hub with the wheel.

The calipers I'm using are using the factory lug mounts that were already on the caliper and simply welding tabs to the knuckle so that I guess would be considered a solid mount. Any pics of your setup? I'm more of a visual type person lol
 
Simple'72CJ said:
A little confused on your question about the floating hats? The hat is bolted to the rotor with the 12 fasteners that are then safety wired. There's no real concentric locating whatsoever so I assume Wilwood was confident in the hole tolerance to locate everything within an acceptable tolerance. The entire unit I guess would be considered "floating" since its really only located by the lug studs and held tight up against the hub with the wheel.

The calipers I'm using are using the factory lug mounts that were already on the caliper and simply welding tabs to the knuckle so that I guess would be considered a solid mount. Any pics of your setup? I'm more of a visual type person lol
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Believe it or not, you answered my questions.:beer: And I did a bit more digging last night.

We don't need to worry about high rates of thermal expansion with the disk solidly bolted to the hat. Cause we're not road racing. We're probably barely getting them warm.

Here's a video explaining the reasons for a floating disk. It's actually about the AP Racing setup that I have. This is not what I'm using on my Jeep.





I didn't realize your calipers were lug mount. I thought all Aero6's were radial mount.

I'm basically doing the same as you did, except modifying the lug mount bracket to be radial mount. If I can pull off the fitting dance to get air to the caliper to lock it in place, I may have a pic of the finished product later today. Maybe.:flipoff2:
 
Pretty much all of the Aero6 Calipers are Radial other than their newest Aero6-DM that is part of their new Silverado kit. The caliper is curved slightly more to fit a 13.38" Diameter rotor which packaged nicer in a 17" wheel. Like I said, its a Hodge-Podge :flipoff2:
 
Simple'72CJ said:
Pretty much all of the Aero6 Calipers are Radial other than their newest Aero6-DM that is part of their new Silverado kit. The caliper is curved slightly more to fit a 13.38" Diameter rotor which packaged nicer in a 17" wheel. Like I said, its a Hodge-Podge :flipoff2:
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I'm ending up with 3/8" at the ends of the caliper by the lip of the rim. Towards the center of the rim it seems to get a little tighter.......maybe down to 1/4".

A little curve to the caliper would be nice.

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mobil1syn said:
i missed this before. are you drilling a 1/4" hole then welding then final drilling?
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I like to plas the parts out with a 1/4" hole for alignment and then drill to final size. The slight taper and the amount I need to oversize the hole in order pass the bolt through drives me insane. We have a Torchmate table at work with a different driver software and Hypertherm 65 hooked to it. It works, but holes are a little finnicky for it. Also, I like to get rid of the hardened plas edge so a pilot from the plas and then plunge cut with an end mill on the bridgeport gives me a nice round tight tolerance hole without any chance of misalignment.
 
Simple'72CJ said:
I like to plas the parts out with a 1/4" hole for alignment and then drill to final size. The slight taper and the amount I need to oversize the hole in order pass the bolt through drives me insane. We have a Torchmate table at work with a different driver software and Hypertherm 65 hooked to it. It works, but holes are a little finnicky for it. Also, I like to get rid of the hardened plas edge so a pilot from the plas and then plunge cut with an end mill on the bridgeport gives me a nice round tight tolerance hole without any chance of misalignment.
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it makes perfect sense and something i never would have considered.

you are doing cool stuff. thank you for the taking the time to post up and please continue to do so.
 
Simple'72CJ said:
I like to plas the parts out with a 1/4" hole for alignment and then drill to final size. The slight taper and the amount I need to oversize the hole in order pass the bolt through drives me insane. We have a Torchmate table at work with a different driver software and Hypertherm 65 hooked to it. It works, but holes are a little finnicky for it. Also, I like to get rid of the hardened plas edge so a pilot from the plas and then plunge cut with an end mill on the bridgeport gives me a nice round tight tolerance hole without any chance of misalignment.
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Does the hardened edge tend to dull your pilots pretty quickly?
 
Sean said:
Does the hardened edge tend to dull your pilots pretty quickly?
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Absolutely lol you will need to resharpen a lot. I will usually hit the plas 1/4" hole quickly with burr just to get rid of that hardened edge IF I'm gonna be using a drill bit to upsize to final hole dimension. If I'm plunging with an endmill I don't even worry about it.

If I plas a hole say to .625" and because of the taper the bottom is sitting at say .600", I'm way better off using a burr and squaring up that taper to the .625" if that makes sense. I've ruined a lot of drills by trying to force it through to open up the hole. That hardened edge not only kills the drill tip but also the flutes.

Just my experience!!
 
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