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Guesstimate me a diff repair

looks like the 2wd ones are spring under which is totally shitty and makes the job 2x what it'd be if it were spring over

to the point that tossing bearings at it might be worthwhile if the axle bearings are the style with their own inner race
 
Doing that shit on a gravel driveway sucks. You don't know if the outer pinion bearing is toast; is the yoke rattling around? So your looking at axel bearings, axel seals, pinion seal and maybe a yoke. Then we play a game of wack-o-mole with the u-joints. If you could do this in a garage with all the right tools it would be a no-brainer. Junk yard axle might just be in your future. :smokin::smokin::smokin:
 
det107 said:
Build a rotisserie rack, tilt truck & slide axle out. Install is in reverse order- :flipoff2:
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no the problem is the spring eye bolts, to get them out up here 50/50 you're doing bushings too because the bolt shank is gonna be stuck to the sleeve after you cut the bolts
 
[486] said:
no the problem is the spring eye bolts, to get them out up here 50/50 you're doing bushings too because the bolt shank is gonna be stuck to the sleeve after you cut the bolts
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Almost easier to pull the axle apart and yank the backing plates Then you can wiggle it between the frame and spring.
 
Thatg9659 said:
Almost easier to pull the axle apart and yank the backing plates Then you can wiggle it between the frame and spring.
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which is why just tossing bearings he's already got at the one that's in there is gonna be easier than sourcing an axle and fucking with u-bolts

if the 4x4 ones are also spring under
 
[486] said:
no the problem is doing the bushings too because the bolt shank is gonna be stuck to the sleeve after you cut the bolts
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So...? Get a lighter, cook the rubber & push out the hot mess with a screwdriver-

*Or be a Gordon J. Liddy wannabe & push it out w/forefinger :flipoff2:
 
Unka-Boo said:
Shit....LKQ is showing a bunch for under $200.....might be faster/cheaper just to swap the whole thing out...
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Yeah I've owned enough shitboxes for this to always be the case.
[486] said:
which is why just tossing bearings he's already got at the one that's in there is gonna be easier than sourcing an axle and fucking with u-bolts

if the 4x4 ones are also spring under
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No, measurements laying under the truck vs a couple of bushings and some new u bolts.

I've lived the gravel driveway life for the first 12 wrenching years of my life. I learned to pick battles that cost less time here in rust land. Winter is no fun changing out a transmission while laying on plywood so the jack would roll while laying under the truck in a plywood tunnel hoping you've got enough propane for the salamander to keep you and the tools warm.
 
Looks like the closest junkyard axle is 40 miles away, for $345. Don't know if that's pulled or not. I'd have to have a way to pick it up. Axle definitely sits on top the springs. No inner race on the axle bearings. I'm trying to remember if I checked the yoke for play when I was under there, I don't think I did.
 
Just rebuild a 10 bolt for a customer. Charged the dude $400. I'm at $100 hr, he supplied all parts.
 
Norm said:
Throw some straight 140W in it and run it until spring :homer:
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000 grease
subybaja said:
Ohh, big spender!

How-to-reuse-sawdust.jpg
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Iffffff ya wanna buy and car or truck and get fuckedddd....
Go see Cal, Go see Cal, go see Cal!
 
Top off and run some cheep ass Walmart oil in it until the weather igets nice. I think it is packaged in plastic bags now.
 
I've built diffs for nearly 25 years. Both professionally and for fun.
Sounds like your pinion nut backed off and the pinion is walking into the carrier on decel. That would explain the bigly sela leak as well as the noise.
If it were in my shop:
Master bearing kit- $200
Fluid, cleaner, misc shop supplies- $100
Labor to replace pinion, carrier and axle shaft bearings- $500 (5 hrs at $100)
Gears are likely fine. If not, add another $200 to the parts.
Good thing about rebuilt vs junkyard used is obviously you know what you got.

Edit- see if the nut is just loose. If so, tighten it up as a band aid until a shop can get you in.
 
Either nut up and DIY it or pay a stupid amount of money. There is no other option.

I'd rebuild what you have rather than fuck with a housing just to have an unknown quantity.

If it's a 2wd buy yourself the deepest gear set they make. :laughing:
 
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JTreadway said:
Edit- see if the nut is just loose. If so, tighten it up as a band aid until a shop can get you in.
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forgot about that
done that a couple times, once it got loose enough the pinion was notching out the diff carrier lol

tightened the nut back up with a new pinion seal and shit was right as rain
gave it a tack weld to make sure
 
I'd agree with those saying get a good junkyard axle.

But if you really want to rebuild the axle you got, others have posted pricing for parts, for labor figure 4-6 hours on a rear axle.
 
for a 2003 and in WI, I would also replace it figuring the axle is too damn rusted to deal with.
 
JTreadway said:
I've built diffs for nearly 25 years. Both professionally and for fun.
Sounds like your pinion nut backed off and the pinion is walking into the carrier on decel. That would explain the bigly sela leak as well as the noise.
If it were in my shop:
Master bearing kit- $200
Fluid, cleaner, misc shop supplies- $100
Labor to replace pinion, carrier and axle shaft bearings- $500 (5 hrs at $100)
Gears are likely fine. If not, add another $200 to the parts.
Good thing about rebuilt vs junkyard used is obviously you know what you got.

Edit- see if the nut is just loose. If so, tighten it up as a band aid until a shop can get you in.
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Thank you for this. It's headed to my friend's shop right now. Not sure when he will get to it, but I'll ask about the pinion nut. I figured rebuilding what I have if possible made more sense then slapping an unknown rear in and hoping I don't end up here again.
xr-nut said:
350 to be exact. any of these close to you?

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Wrong gear ratio, found a 3.73 for $345 pulled out 40 miles away.
welndmn said:
for a 2003 and in WI, I would also replace it figuring the axle is too damn rusted to deal with.
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Some of us know how to use a car wash in the winter. There are a lot newer vehicles here that are way worse than my truck. I do admit, time is starting to take its toll.
 
Update. Picked up the new to me rear-end this morning. Was supposed to be some sort of limited slip and it isn't. Looking at the axle in the truck, the driver side axle bearing was bad, pass side was worse, way way worse, axle is shot. Pinion seemed OK. Used rear needs seals too, and looks worse than the one in the truck, so we decided to deal with the one in the truck.

Got the new bearings and seals in and robbed an axle from the used diff. Got the pinion yoke off and hit a snag. There are 2 seals on the pinion. One slides over the yoke, and the other slides over the pinion, they both fit together. I found one, can't find the other anywhere locally.
20221210_173223.jpg

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Left fits on the yoke and is the one I can't find. Kid at the parts store managed to find the one on the left. Pulled a box and the seal was way wrong. Kept going through stuff checking all over for both. I finally decided to give up. Was about to leave and he came running out, he found the correct seal. Apparently the one he had originally grabbed was the wrong seal in the correct box.

Searching for the seal that seats on the yoke I come up with this, just can't find it locally. Going to check the yoke on the junkyard axle to see if it's usable.

Screenshot_20221210-225301_Samsung Internet.jpg
 
Anyone know if the Lucas synthetic gear oil needs friction modifier? Trying to figure it out is inconclusive.
 
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