Gear pattern check.

The only slinger I didn't put in is this one. It's not used in a stock GM low pinion.
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I cleaned out the oiling paths of all rollers that were stuck in there.

I've ordered a new outer bearing yet again. Going to **** with the shackle angle and see if I can rotate that pinion back to get my caster back too.

This is stupid lol!
Isn't this a baffle that goes in behind the outer bearing race or something? It makes it so the bearing has to fill up with oil before it can spill over the baffle and back to the sump. Correction I looked it up. Goes behind the inner bearing race along with shims.
 
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Well, I'm going to work my back the .015 shim stack, but decided try a .018" shim pack.
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Winchested , does your thumbs 👍 mean you like the .018 shim stack or you still want me to go the .015 shim stack?
 
I'd run it either way to be honest. The 0.018 brings it up flush on the tooth but it's running off the heel. Don't think that matters. The coast side still looks good. I'd call it good at the 18.
 
Little hard to read but looks good.

I always thin my paint with a drop or two of gear oil and then run the pinion with a drill while dragging the ring gear with my other hand. It really makes a good readable print.

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If you do this be careful about trigger control. If you stand next to the drill and let off the trigger suddenly it will knock the **** out of you. So ive heard anyways…..
 
If you do this be careful about trigger control. If you stand next to the drill and let off the trigger suddenly it will knock the **** out of you. So ive heard anyways…..

I use an air drill, haven’t had that happen. Have sucked my fingers between the housing and the ring gear though. Wouldn’t recommend.
 
I use an air drill, haven’t had that happen. Have sucked my fingers between the housing and the ring gear though. Wouldn’t recommend.
Ouchies. I use a small prybar to load the carrier.
 
If you do this be careful about trigger control. If you stand next to the drill and let off the trigger suddenly it will knock the **** out of you. So ive heard anyways…..
Using and old corded drill with no brake solves that.
 
I use an air drill, haven’t had that happen. Have sucked my fingers between the housing and the ring gear though. Wouldn’t recommend.

I never liked the drill idea.

I use a triangular wedge of wood and jam/tap it between the carrier & housing. Then turn the yoke by hand (smoothly as possible).
Same on both, I have determined I'm too far down the spectrum to use that method :laughing:
 
Ford 9 in. 35 spline gear works spool, 5.43 gears. It’s for a “race car” (450ish hp) so not sure if they get setup tighter or looser or different pattern? Thoughts? He says back lash is .007

Also how much pre load do guys usually put on the side adjusters for a 9 in?
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Pattern is a bit deep too start.

Carrier preload seems to be a can of worms. Most commonly used method is adjust to zero backlash. Then snug the carrier (not too tight) and crank the one adjust to keep increasing the backlash to get the number you want. So people then snug both sides together "just a little more or until next hole." Then tighten down.

I've never done factory's "Measure case spread" although with an aftermarket carrier --- it may not apply. Got me on that one.
 
I like the 7 thou BL, definitely a touch deep, add a 5 thou shim if you have it/can make it up.

I do the snug up, then “one more hole” while maintaining BL.
 
He did a couple but think .025 is the winner. Moved out enough?
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Much better. Could you run that? Sure.

But notice how the bottom still has a distinct line while the top has a soft contact ..... that tells me mayyyyybe another .001 or .002 (shim choices aren't always there, I understand.
 
If you squint the drive shows just a hair shallow. Maybe 2 thou, me personally though, I’d have no issue running that.
 
Okay another. Gearworks hp10. Motive gears. All of gears work stuff. Arb etc.

Doesn’t seem to matter what shim gets put in, pattern barely moves. You guys were spot on with the last suggestion so any help? There’s more combinations he’s tried but these are on opposite ends and Don’t feel like it’s moving much if at all.
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EDIT: seems adding more shim makes more contact and helps the pattern? Not sure though.
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Here’s a .085 he just did. He thinks it’s a little high and thinks it’ll end up around .070-.075. Anyone see any issues with running that many shims? Seems like a lot but if that’s what it takes, it is what it is. Unless someone has suggestions on something we are missing.
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Lots of input on Instagram. Here’s where he settled at. Should work good from input we got and seems that amount of whims is normal for the case and gear.
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For shots and giggles I’d throw an 80 thou at that just to see.

Here is my HP GW10 5.43s with a 0.065ish shim and 7 thou BL. I plan to put 20 thou under the inner pinion bearing, just to get the o-ring into the 3rd a little deeper.

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