Front Dana 60 mini truss re-enforcement, give me input

[Lil'John]

I'm doing a 3 link on a front Dana 60(dodge kingpin) I needed a mini-truss because the upper link was going to land on top of the diff housing:

I've started with some 4" plate that is 1/4" thick. The upper link is ~4" above the plate shown at the center line.

I am going to weld to the axle tube at both ends and to the front edge of diff housing. I intent to use the studs with spacers under them.

Where would you reinforce the above bracket?

 

[subybaja]

The front and back plates are stressed edge-on. The top cap just holds them in allignment- its' flat bending strength doesn't amount to much.

I'd think at minimum you need more triangles, but something closer to the above ^ would be better, with more front and back face for stiffness.

Artec's rear D60 seems like the size you're shooting for, for example:

But you've got 100% more trusses than I do, so...

 

[Lil'John]

Because I have a Dodge front, the short side is "extra" short compared to a Chevy front. This would prevent using an existing Chevy truss :(

In your opinion, you think I should do a combo of red and blue(purple is link mount) in my picture below?

The blue on top is actually just a straight brace not the weird diagonals shown ;)

In addition to the bracing shown above, you think I should also add some gusseting on the right between the knuckle and housing? ~2".

 

[subybaja]

Yeah, that looks good. I'd do the same thing on the right side, especially with how long those studs are. They're plenty far up there to let the whole card table rack left and right if it's not triangulated well.

In fact, I'd do a little Cardboard Assisted Design and fill in the entire inside for more stiffness. You're never gonna regret too much strength.

I'd do the outer angle braces (blue) with some square tube cut at a couple of 45*s, so the top is closed. More rigid.
Like this cage gusset, but square, is what I mean.

 

[ArTi54N]

depending on the price of course

there are times when its not so wise, to build yourself..

instead, I would recommend buying something already built.. like the ones in the links above..

 

[Aisin]

depending on the price of course

there are times when its not so wise, to build yourself..

instead, I would recommend buying something already built.. like the ones in the links above..

In case you didn’t read the thread the trusses won’t work with a Dodge axle without modifying the truss due to the short tube on the passenger side. No point in buying something if it’s getting chopped up and remade for his axle.

 

[Lil'John]

depending on the price of course

there are times when its not so wise, to build yourself..

instead, I would recommend buying something already built.. like the ones in the links above..

As noted, I'm using nobodies favorite Dodge D60 king pin; it has 2" less tube on the short side ;)

My searching has yet to find a truss that will work directly with a Dodge D60. Even if it did, I'm probably not willing to spend $300+. I'm definitely not going to spend $300+ on a truss that I'll have to modify with my shitty version of fab work

 

[Dan]

Extend it all the way to the knuckle(s), you trying to save weight or something?

Another option is to just run the upper link on the other side if there is room and you haven't finish welded your mount yet.

 

[Lil'John]

Extend it all the way to the knuckle(s), you trying to save weight or something?

Are you saying just do a full length truss c to c? In talking with my fab guy, the mild wheeling/chance of abuse didn't warrant going full length truss. Full truss was mainly to strengthen the axle for those who like to do very abusive wheeling.

Another option is to just run the upper link on the other side if there is room and you haven't finish welded your mount yet.

Good question. I don't have a real answer on why not to drop the upper link on the driver side. My centerline offset is 9".

If I were to go with that offset, is there a reason to do a truss at all? Or can I get away with just a lift like this:

Ignore the lower bolt hole and the fact that it is a traction bar ;) Imagine adding more trussing to the above bracket.

 

[Dan]

If you feel like you don't need a full truss I would ditch what you have and run the upper link right off the tube on the driver side and move on.

If the project snowballs and you want to do a full truss (c to c) to reinforce the axle housing it will be super easy to do. Just tie your upper link mount into the truss.

Edit: just like the anti wrap bar you posted above just add some lateral bracing or build it into your mount.

 

[Lil'John]

If you feel like you don't need a full truss I would ditch what you have and run the upper link right off the tube on the driver side and move on.

If the project snowballs and you want to do a full truss (c to c) to reinforce the axle housing it will be super easy to do. Just tie your upper link mount into the truss.

Edit: just like the anti wrap bar you posted above just add some lateral bracing or build it into your mount.

So in your opinion, make something like the Barnes' mount:

Unfortunately, Barnes' mount is one inch to short :( Which does sort of beg the question: As long as Anti-Squat, Instant Center X-axis, and Instant Center Z-axis are similar, does the link mount location make a difference? The mount drops from my numbers by 1"... in order to maintain numbers, I have to drop frame mount ~0.75".

 

[Dan]

That's exactly what I was thinking. I'll bet if you gave them a call they could make you one an inch taller, if not it shouldn't be too hard for your fab guy to build one to your specs.

Or get that one and drop your frame mount down to keep your numbers where you want them. The loss in ground clearance is a compromise but probably not too big a deal on a mild wheeler.