Ford Focus trouble

Mikel

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A friend of mine has a 2011 Ford Focus, with the 2.0L engine.

At around 100K miles, car started to run rough and my friend found one spark plug that had lost its strap and electrode. He replaced it and car ran fine. 2000 miles later, car began to run progressively worse and then it blew out that new plug, along with the threads. That coil was damaged as well.

I installed a threaded insert for him and we replaced all plugs, as well as that one coil. Car runs well, but engine has a somewhat shaky idle that one feels inside the cabin. Otherwise it has normal power and no check engine codes. He did have a similar idle before the engine had its first spark plug problem.

When we did the threaded insert, we did check compression and all cylinders were at 220-225 PSI, so I don't think the electrode damaged an exhaust valve. There was some speculation that one injector may have been faulty, making that cylinder run lean and accelerating the death of its spark plug.

I hate threaded inserts and my inclination is to touch that one spark plug as little as humanly possible:flipoff2:

Any suggestions?

Thanks.
 
Check the seated depth of the spark plug against the other 3. I’ve seen the rough idle with the seated depth was too far or not far enough .
 
Looks like that plug is 0.09" higher than the rest
 
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I reset the insert so that all plugs are even now. Zero difference. Idle is still rough-ish.

These engines have a reputation for bad motor mounts transmitting vibrations into the body, but this engine has a high frequency vibration that I would not describe as normal. The engine does not visibly shake, but if you put your hand on it, it is very noticeable. Are these engines so unrefined?

Thanks.
 
You can mimimize it with new mounts but every one I've ever driven or worked on has had the buzz at idle.

I'm surprised that a modern vehicle does this, even if it is an econobox.
 
I'm surprised that a modern vehicle does this, even if it is an econobox.
They rely very heavily on the passenger side engine mount to do its job dampening the vibrations, it is liquid filled to do this. Any sagging in the mount and I would replace it and bet it makes a big difference.
 
They rely very heavily on the passenger side engine mount to do its job dampening the vibrations, it is liquid filled to do this. Any sagging in the mount and I would replace it and bet it makes a big difference.

My friend replaced it not long ago (2 years?). Do they go bad that quickly?

I've had two trucks with 4BTs and they idle smoother :laughing:

(I adjusted the weights of the piston/rod assemblies in the last 4BT I built and at 800 RPM it shakes a lot less than this Ford engine)
 
Had a 2010 and the throttle body was known for getting fawked. And randomly shaking throwing the limp mode wrench thing.
 
I replaced an alternator on my brother's probably 10 years ago, which required loosening the motor mount. Not long after reassembly, it began shaking and eventually shook like a gravel compactor before they got rid of it 3 or 4 years ago. Drove that thing in to the dirt.
 
Different body style/drivetrain entirely from the ones that were recalled.
Well...which body style? Was it '12 the change? That body style I'm referencing was never recalled to my knowledge circa 2017/18
cliff's?
My grandma bought a 2015 brand new, now its at the dealer with tranny problems, 15k on the odometer:homer:
Big ol issue. I cant speak to new people/owners/late to the gamers, but you're in for an uphill battle either way. PM me and I'll type up more info in the AM if it's the body style I know, the 'clutch', 'reprogramming', 'stutter'. Dont wanna derail this thread
 
Well...which body style? Was it '12 the change? That body style I'm referencing was never recalled to my knowledge circa 2017/18

Big ol issue. I cant speak to new people/owners/late to the gamers, but you're in for an uphill battle either way. PM me and I'll type up more info in the AM if it's the body style I know, the 'clutch', 'reprogramming', 'stutter'. Dont wanna derail this thread
'11 for Fiesta, '12 for Focus were the first years of the dual clutch transmission that had multiple FSAs ("Field Service Action" = recall)to attempt to fix the clutch and TCM problems. Warranty extensions out to 100k for 2011/12-2014. Made many mortgage payments on those cars alone when I worked at the dealer, we'd order clutches by the pallet.
 
'11 for Fiesta, '12 for Focus were the first years of the dual clutch transmission that had multiple FSAs ("Field Service Action" = recall)to attempt to fix the clutch and TCM problems. Warranty extensions out to 100k for 2011/12-2014. Made many mortgage payments on those cars alone when I worked at the dealer, we'd order clutches by the pallet.
Fought that battle with Ford 2012-2017 to get the buyback. Finally completed spring ish? 2018? Would have to look at my file.

More than a dozen reprograms, clutches, TC?, modules.....well you know. All under 60k miles. What a disaster. But we made out a out 17-18k cashiers check via ford after our battle was done. Bought it back from us less a few dings, plus interest. Essentially paid $ for the wife's new ride. That week's culmination took years off my life:emb2::bert:
 
I can see a motor mount only lasting 2yr if it's the cheapest aftermarket one and it's installed in a DCT car that sees a lot of stop and go or a car that gets driven in a spirited manner as all cars should be.

My friend replaced it not long ago (2 years?). Do they go bad that quickly?

I've had two trucks with 4BTs and they idle smoother :laughing:

(I adjusted the weights of the piston/rod assemblies in the last 4BT I built and at 800 RPM it shakes a lot less than this Ford engine)
For any engine that is balanced reasonably well chassis harmonics are gonna have a huge effect.

If OP doesn't wanna replace the motor mount he should turn the idle up 100rpm. :laughing:
 

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