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Fire Extinguisher/Fire Suppression Discussion Thread

It is possible but doesn't come up regularly. It would mainly be if a bottle was coming up to its 5/10 year expiration and a race team was going to be replacing it with new.
Will they sell the foam additive to the general public (I assume no)?
I have 4 2.5 gallon water fire extinguishers and I would like to convert to a couple of them to use AFF (less water, 1/8" hole in the top of the dip tube) and put on the baler/have available in the shop.
Currently they run dawn and water, but AFF would probably be better.

Aaron Z
 
Correct, it is a liquid with nitrogen charge on top of it so it can't compact. As I mentioned, freezing is the only concern when it comes to AFFF agents but 4Fire is good to -20F so unless you are in extremely cold climates, there are no issues there.
 
Will they sell the foam additive to the general public (I assume no)?
I have 4 2.5 gallon water fire extinguishers and I would like to convert to a couple of them to use AFF (less water, 1/8" hole in the top of the dip tube) and put on the baler/have available in the shop.
Currently they run dawn and water, but AFF would probably be better.

Aaron Z
Not from SPA Technique but you can find FireAde concentrate or pre-mix AFFF solutions from a few different online sources. However, whether your bottles are suitable for the application is really outside of what I can comment on.
 
No experience in offroad, but out dirt car is mandated to run it. We have two nozzles triggered by temp, flame or whatever the hell it says plus a T-handle in the cockpit. One in the cockpit and one by the fuel cell. Would make sense to run one in the engine bay because if that ole 472 ventilates the block with the dry sump system, it can be a bad time. Most guys hate the systems and would never use them. That said, most racers are fucking idiots or else they wouldn't be racing. They'd never use it because doing so would cost more than the damn thing being on fire, or so their thoughts go. Or the systems go off on their own and cost money. Either way, they see it as costing more than it's worth.

Having been to some real shit hole tracks with some shit hole safety crews, I prefer having it in the car.

If they only suppress for 10, 15 or 20 seconds, so be it. That may be the 10, 15 or 20 seconds of extra time you need to get yourself out of an upside down car on fire. Though, to be fair, you ain't getting out of one of our cars if you're upside down. It's hard enough right side up. But, that onboard system might buy you the time it takes for Billy Bob to get to you with a fire extinguisher.

I've seen fire at the race track plenty of times. It's the scariest thing there is. I couldn't imagine standing on the hauler roof watching my guy burn. Out of all the possibilities of anxiety inducing craziness at the race track, that's the only one I'm truly afraid of. Cartwheeling down the back stretch, ripping the front clip off... That just sucks and is costly. Fire... That's shit not to be fucked with.

Offroad is different of course. Billy Bob ain't coming to your aid so, to me, you better have something onboard if you go ass over tea kettle and the thing lights up.
 
Yes, Novec is certainly available in a handheld option. Even for a non-buggy off-road rig though, I would recommend their 2 liter (roughly 5 lb) 4Fire AFFF handheld: HH 4f-2 - Hand Held Fire Extinguisher - 2 Ltr

A Novec system is going to be more expensive to initially purchase and is also more expensive to service or refill after use than a foam option. The 4Fire foam has fire out performance that nearly matches that of Novec but also has the benefits of a foam being that it coats and smothers the fuel source. This particular 2L handheld is also their lowest priced of all the various sizes/agents available so I consider it to be the best bang for your buck. I keep two of these in my steering pump assembly/testing room close to my dyno.


Not an expiration date on the foam, but there are service and expiration dates for on-board and handheld systems which are related to FIA/SFI requirements and/or bottle service life. SFI approved and FIA homolated systems require service every 2 years and bottles have a service life of 5 or 10 years depending on which system/bottle is being used. For the past year I had been authorized to service all SPA Technique AFFF bottles which consisted of discharge, disassembly, inspection, refill/recharge, and a new label. Here's an example of the info found on each bottle:
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The main reason for the regular service is not to replace the foam but to inspect everything to check that the siphon tube is still intact and not blocked, that the valve still operates, etc. This also brings me to some points that I see confusion about when it comes to racing organization rule makers time and time again relating to service date requirements.

For instance, I have seen a lot of talk recently about Ultra4's requirements that fire extinguishers have to be serviced within the past year which is illogical in my opinion since proper handheld extinguishers already have a 2 year service date laid out by third party approval agencies. The dry powder Kidde extinguishers from Home Depot are an entirely different story and in my mind, aren't suitable for racing.

I have also heard (granted, this is only hearsay) that the reason on-board systems haven't been made mandatory is that this brings liability upon the racing body. There has been similar debate/misconception among my regional hillclimb racing organization that I compete in. However if the rules are written to require a system be installed in accordance with one of the established standards, for example FIA Technical List 16 or SFI 17.1, then this should theoretically take the liability off of the organizers and also establish required service intervals in one fell swoop.
thanks for the link.... :beer:
 
Not from SPA Technique but you can find FireAde concentrate or pre-mix AFFF solutions from a few different online sources.
Understood, will look into that.
Would you recommend the same HH 4f-2 (2L handheld) for a tractor? Getting a new tractor to run the baler and thinking that a extinguisher on the tractor is probably a good idea.

However, whether your bottles are suitable for the application is really outside of what I can comment on.
It's likely to be better than my current solution (dawn and water).
The most likely cause of a fire would be a bearing that seized and caught the hay on fire.

Aaron Z
 
Halotron is another gaseous agent still used today. It replaced Halon but it is still a CFC, just a better one for the environment than the older halons. Halotron and Novec 1230 are often compared to each other and are very similar in terms of use and effectiveness but Halotron has a global warming potential of 3500 and Novec has a global warming potential of 1. All else being equal, Novec would be my choice for a gaseous agent.
 
Understood, will look into that.
Would you recommend the same HH 4f-2 (2L handheld) for a tractor? Getting a new tractor to run the baler and thinking that a extinguisher on the tractor is probably a good idea.
Yes, I would consider that an ideal handheld for a tractor since like a buggy, you want something that will wet the hay rather than something like Novec that will extinguish the fire then drift away.
 
Halotron is another gaseous agent still used today. It replaced Halon but it is still a CFC, just a better one for the environment than the older halons. Halotron and Novec 1230 are often compared to each other and are very similar in terms of use and effectiveness but Halotron has a global warming potential of 3500 and Novec has a global warming potential of 1. All else being equal, Novec would be my choice for a gaseous agent.
Yea don't get Halotron it will be getting expensive and hard to find as time goes on, it will also kill you if you fire it off in an enclosed space.

We did a TON of research into extinguishing vehicle fires and looking for non corrosive alternatives at a prior job. Products like Halotron and novec, while non corrosive, takes around 20% longer to put the fire out than a dry chem like purple K. So you would need that much larger of a bottle than a dry chem equivalent. From what I remember Novec barely passed the tests in a bruning fuel fire outdoors, but it's still good stuff. Eventually the math didn't work out and it would have been cheaper to replace burnt up equipment and anything that got purple K on it than to switch all the fire bottles out, one of the main things that killed that project was the effectiveness and the enclosed space issue with Halotron compared to dry chem. I'll have to see if I still have all my charts and shit on a flash drive somewhere.
 
Eric RadialDynamics - would this be in line with your recommendation for a rock buggy recreational car?

where would you locate the nozzels? (My car is the typical front radiator, front engine,rear fuel cell, tranny cooler in the back version)

My thoughts would be either side of the engine in the front, mostly on the exhaust manifolds where fluids are likely to spray during a hard roll, and then one on the drivers lap and one on the passengers lap - as you mentioned above.

Any thoughts on the remote location for the temperature activation block?
 
This thread definitely has me wondering if i should change out my H3R Halgaurd for another 4Fire FireSense like the one I got from RadialDynamics a year ago. I do have an Element on my dash and am installing a boat fire port on my doghouse dash panel right behind my fuel rail connection with idea if I had an engine fire I could strike off the Element and shove down into the fire port and let it do its thing while I get out.
 
Yea don't get Halotron it will be getting expensive and hard to find as time goes on, it will also kill you if you fire it off in an enclosed space.

We did a TON of research into extinguishing vehicle fires and looking for non corrosive alternatives at a prior job. Products like Halotron and novec, while non corrosive, takes around 20% longer to put the fire out than a dry chem like purple K. So you would need that much larger of a bottle than a dry chem equivalent. From what I remember Novec barely passed the tests in a bruning fuel fire outdoors, but it's still good stuff. Eventually the math didn't work out and it would have been cheaper to replace burnt up equipment and anything that got purple K on it than to switch all the fire bottles out, one of the main things that killed that project was the effectiveness and the enclosed space issue with Halotron compared to dry chem. I'll have to see if I still have all my charts and shit on a flash drive somewhere.

I have 3 H3R Halotron handhelds. 1-5lb and 2- 2.5lb. I pulled them out yesterday. All 3 bottles say that the pressure charge on top of the Halotron is 100psi of Argon. Depending on how enclosed the enclosed space is, that could potentially be a big problem.

Breathing a slug of Argon is just like getting a slug of Helium, you don't cough and have trouble breathing, you instantly turn off and go to sleep. Your body knows when you've taken a lung full of something it can't use........it will not allow you to take another breath.
 
I have 3 H3R Halotron handhelds. 1-5lb and 2- 2.5lb. I pulled them out yesterday. All 3 bottles say that the pressure charge on top of the Halotron is 100psi of Argon. Depending on how enclosed the enclosed space is, that could potentially be a big problem.

Breathing a slug of Argon is just like getting a slug of Helium, you don't cough and have trouble breathing, you instantly turn off and go to sleep. Your body knows when you've taken a lung full of something it can't use........it will not allow you to take another breath.
The Halotron displaces oxygen as well. We would have been using this stuff on equipment burning Infront of an aircraft door, and if you had someone in there handling bags or cargo you could potentially kill them, that's what was one of the big red flags of the stuff in the application we were evaluating for. The extinguishers used would have been big ass wheeled bottles, so imagine some airline employee pretending to be fire Marshall Bill just unloading that shit into an enclosed space spraying and praying.
 
Yes, Novec is certainly available in a handheld option. Even for a non-buggy off-road rig though, I would recommend their 2 liter (roughly 5 lb) 4Fire AFFF handheld: HH 4f-2 - Hand Held Fire Extinguisher - 2 Ltr

A Novec system is going to be more expensive to initially purchase and is also more expensive to service or refill after use than a foam option. The 4Fire foam has fire out performance that nearly matches that of Novec but also has the benefits of a foam being that it coats and smothers the fuel source. This particular 2L handheld is also their lowest priced of all the various sizes/agents available so I consider it to be the best bang for your buck. I keep two of these in my steering pump assembly/testing room close to my dyno.

Based on this recommendation and a number of comments in this thread, I picked up two of these to replace the really old, dry powder units in my pro-mod car. company shipped fast. I think I ordered on a Saturday and got shipping notification Tuesday morning, got em Friday kinda thing.

A few photos of unboxing and comparison for size. Well packed, with packing peanuts, double boxed.
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20230707_201608.jpg


With the extra weight, I need to consider if the hose clamps to a mount option is really going to work. I've had the hose clamps break in the past.
 
Im glad to see my quote in here. Fire suppression buys you time if it doesn't float away/get pushed away by wind. Otherwise its just wasted and a strange cloud floating away.

Edit: while trying to put out kens car I went thru 2 2.5 fire extinguishers. They package easy, but that’s about it. Make 5’s fit if at all possible.

Also, put a sharp af knife or belt cutter in your rig. Don’t go thru what I did.
 
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We all install cages because we don't want to get smashed. We all install harnesses because we don't want to get ejected into a grave. We will wear helmets because our brains work better inside our skulls.
We "should" install ways to fight a fire because 6 months in a burn center isn't much of a vacation.


Also, put a sharp af knife or belt cutter in your rig. Don’t go thru what I did.

That's a great idea. It doesn't even matter if you cut the person getting them out. They'll be alive.
 
I don't have a financial interest in this topic anymore as I gave up selling fire safety equipment last year due to insurance reasons... etc
This is a great post! Should be sticked (or this thread) imo.

I just ordered the 10lb fire suppression and a 10lb bottle and a 5lb bottle for my "maybe someday will do a race" buggy. The 5lb will replace the conventional one I have between the seats, the 10lb will go in front of the passenger seat. The question I have for the collective, and reiterating Opiebennett , what is the suggestion for the suppression system nozzle placement?

Radial Dynamics recommended pointing one at the lap, so I'm debating getting a second suppression system that's just for the cockpit. There's only four nozzles (and I feel like adding more and decreasing the content from each one is a bad idea) and I have an engine in the front, a transmission between the seats, and a fuel cell out back. Two nozzles for each of those (one per side, or one over/under in the case of the fuel cell) seems elegant, but that's a lot of nozzles and still doesn't cover the cab area. The flip side is, should the suppression system be used exclusively on the passenger compartment because getting out is paramount and if people can get out then there are additional extinguishers (25lb total) located around the vehicle that can then be used to target a specific location... That seems like the best route, but then where do the four nozzles go in the cab? Under dash pointed at groin and one behind the helmet pointed down the back maybe?
 
I have been waiting for Sparco to make another production run of these. SS housing. AFFF (aqueous film forming foam).
Extinguisher can be pulled while belted in or fired.
Summit keeps pushing back the expected delivery date.
UM3 QD mount available in composite, hybrid, or all aluminum.

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Which one? Wasn’t there some concern with powder packing discussions earlier on ABCs
There is concern from other people but we mitigate that by replacing them every year. We’ve put out fires several times with ABC’s off the cars and up to this point they’ve always performed as intended. These will get removed and replaced again in January for KOH.

IMG_5047.jpeg
 


After seeing Loren have one of these fail I decided I don’t want to trust them. So we lit mine off today just to see how it would work. Ours worked like it was supposed to and wasted $80 bucks. But I’m going to put an ABC back in its place.

IMG_5045.jpeg
IMG_5046.jpeg

Those things always looked kinda janky to me. I would much rather have my 2seconds of 5lb extinguisher vs having to shove my hand in the fire to maybe knock it down with one of those.
 
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