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Fabricated 9" / 10" housings

Bebop said:
I agree with the thought, but if you're building an axle from scratch, the pinion location will have an impact on housing angle. This is especially true for a front axle. I don't want to build a front axle that is meant for a LP setup, then drop a HP in later and have to change everything or live with the wrong caster/pinion axle.
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This is exactly where I am at this moment. Front axle build using a double cardan driveshaft. The pinion will be rotated up set the driveshaft angles properly. This raises the front pinion which helps me if I choose a LP gearset.
I feel for my build this will be enough to work out without any issues. I would buy a HP gearset if I had confidence that replacement parts would be available in the future, for me it is not worth the gamble.

Derail...
Aluminum cases? Though bolt style robust enough for rockcrawling?
 
Bebop said:
The gear maker closed and I don't even know if they've been bought out nor if there is plan to restart them.
Tubeworks is currently the only one producing HP gears.
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Wuz-A-zuk said:
what happens to the HP gear market if no one buys them out and continues operations?
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We just need someone like Yukon or Revolution to order HP9 gearsets from their gearmakers. It'll take a year or two to get them, but then they'll be available.

In a dream world, Yukon would buy TH9 and bring it to the market from a corporate level. Prices would drop, quality would go up, so would customer service.


RustyC said:
Aluminum cases? Though bolt style robust enough for rockcrawling?
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Bebop said:
F that.
AL sucks when dragging on rocks. And it's weaker. Not a fan.
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Pretty much what Bebop said....

But... it you were going to go with portals or use them in an IFS application, where they are better protected, they wouldn't be horrible.

Definitely bolt-through the case style, then you want some sort of bridge between the bearing caps to keep them from spreading.


Bebop said:
You're not a drag racer trying to get every lbs out of the car.
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Watch your ounces and let the pounds take care of themselves.... or something like that.
 
Bebop said:
If you're racing, sure.
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Even for a trail rig. You don't need the same mindset as building a race car, but it would be good to mindful of weight.

You see people that don't care that everything on their rig is made out of 1/4" or 3/8" and end up with these big heavy pigs that then break everything in sight. They then step up to bigger heavier axles, bigger heavier links, more power to move that pig etc.

Spend a little time building things smarter, save a few pounds here and there and the rig will perform better on just about everything, except maybe a pulling test. :laughing:
 
Tech Tim said:
In a dream world, Yukon would buy TH9 and bring it to the market from a corporate level. Prices would drop, quality would go up, so would customer service.
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I'm not sure I see how. A Yukon LP case costs more than a GW and a Yukon axle shaft costs more than domestics. Yukon hasn't been cheap in a long time and quality is seriously debatable vs. cost.
 
Tech Tim said:
Even for a trail rig. You don't need the same mindset as building a race car, but it would be good to mindful of weight.

You see people that don't care that everything on their rig is made out of 1/4" or 3/8" and end up with these big heavy pigs that then break everything in sight. They then step up to bigger heavier axles, bigger heavier links, more power to move that pig etc.

Spend a little time building things smarter, save a few pounds here and there and the rig will perform better on just about everything, except maybe a pulling test. :laughing:
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I agree with the thought process.
I don't think that going to an AL third instead of an iron one is a smart idea in a trail rig, due to the points above (that you even agreed with :P ).
If you go with portals, I think that a yota 8" is a better option than an AL 9". Would still be iron, strong enough and probably lighter too.

YMMV, there are multiple ways to skin a cat, this is only my opinion. Insert other disclaimers here.

94toytruck said:
I'm not sure I see how. A Yukon LP case costs more than a GW and a Yukon axle shaft costs more than domestics. Yukon hasn't been cheap in a long time and quality is seriously debatable vs. cost.
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Agreed
 
Tech Tim said:
Even for a trail rig. You don't need the same mindset as building a race car, but it would be good to mindful of weight.

You see people that don't care that everything on their rig is made out of 1/4" or 3/8" and end up with these big heavy pigs that then break everything in sight. They then step up to bigger heavier axles, bigger heavier links, more power to move that pig etc.

Spend a little time building things smarter, save a few pounds here and there and the rig will perform better on just about everything, except maybe a pulling test. :laughing:
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This! I have been guilty in the past of overbuilding and getting heavy. I am trying to be mindful of each decision in this build of the weight of components.
I have considered using an Alum case in the front axle to reduce weight but then again I could just use Spidertrax outers instead of 05 D60 and save a ton, or super lightweight brakes..it just snowballs from there and the snowball is made of $$$
 
Bebop said:
I agree with the thought process.
I don't think that going to an AL third instead of an iron one is a smart idea in a trail rig, due to the points above (that you even agreed with :P ).
If you go with portals, I think that a yota 8" is a better option than an AL 9". Would still be iron, strong enough and probably lighter too.
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And I still agree with you on running an AL 3rd.

It's more the thought process than anything.

RustyC said:
This! I have been guilty in the past of overbuilding and getting heavy. I am trying to be mindful of each decision in this build of the weight of components.
I have considered using an Alum case in the front axle to reduce weight but then again I could just use Spidertrax outers instead of 05 D60 and save a ton, or super lightweight brakes..it just snowballs from there and the snowball is made of $$$
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Just being mindful of weight will help you keep it down.
 
Ghetto Fab. said:
Any thoughts on making something like that with a lathe? Obviously the bolt pattern has to be done with some kind of mill, but the rest is just concentric turning and lends itself well to a lathe. I dunno.
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05+ unit bearings' mounting bolt pattern is 4x6.5"

have some 8x6.5 dually adapters/spacers with enough meat or steel 8x6.5" wheel spacers laying around?

bore half way to your axle's tube diameter (3.5", 3.75", 4", etc.) and bore the other half through to unit bearings' pilot diameter (140mm or 5.51") on a lathe. :smokin:
 
I know I'm a little late to the party but in the process of starting a fabbed knuckle setup. Currently for the unit bearing cups for the knuckles is $451ea with having 10 made out of 4130. To fit the bearing is a 6.5x.6.5x3in thick blank to start and would require a 10in round blank to get the same component in the end.
SK1.png
 
TTRAxle&FAB said:
I know I'm a little late to the party but in the process of starting a fabbed knuckle setup. Currently for the unit bearing cups for the knuckles is $451ea with having 10 made out of 4130. To fit the bearing is a 6.5x.6.5x3in thick blank to start and would require a 10in round blank to get the same component in the end.
SK1.png
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Hmm...

DIY kit with just the machined parts and a .dxf and a loaner fixture might make a good business.
 
TTRAxle&FAB said:
I know I'm a little late to the party but in the process of starting a fabbed knuckle setup. Currently for the unit bearing cups for the knuckles is $451ea with having 10 made out of 4130. To fit the bearing is a 6.5x.6.5x3in thick blank to start and would require a 10in round blank to get the same component in the end.
SK1.png
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I'm curious to see what you end up with.
I'm in the market but for now but plan to wait for Spidertrax to release theirs as none of the big knuckle offerings on the market check all the boxes for me.
 
Bebop said:
The gear maker closed and I don't even know if they've been bought out nor if there is plan to restart them.
Tubeworks is currently the only one producing HP gears.
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Who was the gear maker? US gear? I thought Moser bought them?
 
Bebop said:
Seems like they were bought out by Moser indeed.
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US gears parent company meritor was bought out by cummins last year. Before that happened Meritor was limiting sale of gears to only 3 companies. Gearworks,Stange and Moser. At my previous job they were able to get US Gear street gears from Jeremy at gearworks for most of the year. Now he has no eta on the street gears. Nitro is also currently making HP10 gears in a few limited ratios. They show no signs of being reboxed US Gears as they don't feature the US shield stamp nor any other signs.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Is nitro owned by just differentials? Who seems to be going down the toilet?
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Yes, Nitro gear and Just Differentials are like Yukon and Randy's.

Nitro/Just Differentials was sold a year or two ago. Probably cause of some of the problems people have been complaining about lately.
 
TTRAxle&FAB said:
I know I'm a little late to the party but in the process of starting a fabbed knuckle setup. Currently for the unit bearing cups for the knuckles is $451ea with having 10 made out of 4130. To fit the bearing is a 6.5x.6.5x3in thick blank to start and would require a 10in round blank to get the same component in the end.
SK1.png
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Did you copy Allied Fab?

20230311_154942.jpg
 
Besides the uniballs being in a different direction they look the same. Which would be stronger on a steering knuckle, vertical or horizontal on the uniballs?
 
Corey Young said:
Besides the uniballs being in a different direction they look the same. Which would be stronger on a steering knuckle, vertical or horizontal on the uniballs?
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vertical lower, horizontal upper is the ideal way to get the most contact patched during loading. this makes knuckle fabrications slightly complicated. horizontal makes for the most turning radius, vertical makes fabrication simpler.

horizontal lower will point load when the tire is on the ground.
vertical upper will point load in accelation / deceleration.
 
Corey Young said:
Besides the uniballs being in a different direction they look the same. Which would be stronger on a steering knuckle, vertical or horizontal on the uniballs?
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Just like a heim joint, uniballs are strongest loaded through the bearing, weakest loaded through the bolt.
 
mobil1syn said:
horizontal makes for the most turning radius, vertical makes fabrication simpler.
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I may be missing something but how does this work out?

Wouldn't verticle yield a turning radius only limited by ujoint binding where horizontal is limited to through bolt/misalignment spacers hitting cup or the fabricated parts around cup?
 
NDCjeepsmith said:
I may be missing something but how does this work out?

Wouldn't verticle yield a turning radius only limited by ujoint binding where horizontal is limited to through bolt/misalignment spacers hitting cup or the fabricated parts around cup?
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He's talking about the orientation of the bearing surface, not the bolt. You are on the same page.
 
Doubleud said:
If you decide to go with a trail gear housing, check summit racing. They will ship you the 68" housing for $19.99. It was cheaper for me to buy through Summit than to buy from TG.
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JFYI...shipping jumped to $50. Jeg's is still doing it for $17....for how much longer with rampant shipping/inflation is anyone's guess. Also, housings went from $774 yesterday for the 3.5" tube for TGs to $860 today. Maybe there was a St. Paddy's Day Weekend sale?? Jeg's is the same $860 price, but they have a $150 off a $1500 purchase....so a f/r housing pair and it's down to $785 each.
 
RustyC said:
I am in the market for a couple of fabricated 9" housings. I have found several other manufacturers that offer fab housings.
Other than popularity, What make one better than the other? Machining the face after welding is standard procedure now.
Faceplate thinckness 3/8" - 1/2"
Tube O.D. and wall thickness 3",3.5",4.0"
Metal Type mild vs chromoly

Spidertrax 3/8" face / 3.5" x 1/4" dom , chromo tubes as an upgrade $1099
RuffStuff 3/8" face / 3.5" x 3/8" dom $1100
TrailGear 1/2" face / 3" & 3.5" x 3/8" dom $ 774
Camburg 3/8" face / 3.5" x 1/4" chromo tubes $895

3.5 in. Ultimate Housing
Ford 9" Axle Housing
www.summitracing.com

Trail Gear 144049-1-KIT Trail-Gear Rock Assault 9 Axle Housings | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Trail-Gear Rock Assault 9 Axle Housings with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Axle Housings at Summit Racing.
www.summitracing.com www.summitracing.com
https://camburg.com/shop/drivetrain...-3-50-mig-builder-series-9-rear-axle-housing/
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Well did you decide on a housing?
 
I'm not the OP (obviously) but, Trail Gear was running a 15% off deal last month that got them down to $731 each and with $50 shipping (for the 75" OAL with the 3.5" tubes) from Summit, we bought 4. I don't think you can do it much cheaper. Got the housings last week....they are actually pretty damn nice. I wasn't sure just what quality I'd get from TG.
 
Sean said:
I'm not the OP (obviously) but, Trail Gear was running a 15% off deal last month that got them down to $731 each and with $50 shipping (for the 75" OAL with the 3.5" tubes) from Summit, we bought 4. I don't think you can do it much cheaper. Got the housings last week....they are actually pretty damn nice. I wasn't sure just what quality I'd get from TG.
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That is exactly why I was asking. The quality of the TG housing is my biggest concern.:shocked:
 
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