Evan’s 4Runner Stuff

[eacook1]

I got the housing in to check my angles. My caster at approx ride height is 9.8.

My pinion and transfer case output flange are not parallel. They are off by about 5 deg. T-case flange is up 4.2 and the pinion is up .6 degrees. Will this be an issue? Under load does a high pinion front rotate the pinion up or down?

 

[eacook1]

I was having a hard time squaring up the through frame bushings. Finally came up with an easy way to have a squared up reference point. I had to remove my exhaust so I could clamp my straight edge across the frame. I squared up to the front spring hanger. One busing was good, the other was off a lot.

 

[Stingray]

I ran a round bar through mine to square them up.
and measured off the bar to make sure they were square and true.

 

[eacook1]

I ran a round bar through mine to square them up.
and measured off the bar to make sure they were square and true.

No way for me to do the that with the tranny in as it hangs down to low.

 

[Stingray]

No way for me to do the that with the tranny in as it hangs down to low.

manual trans?

 

[eacook1]

Yes.

 

[Stingray]

Yes.

Aaaahh, On an auto I was able to drop the pan and I had a clear shot.

 

[eacook1]

That must have been nice, I scratched my head on that for a bit. Since the frame is angled there it’s really hard to visualize squareness.

 

[Stingray]

That must have been nice, I scratched my head on that for a bit. Since the frame is angled there it’s really hard to visualize squareness.

100%
the frame tapers right there. the level is a good call. It was tough to find a point of reference to find square, and then find equal front to rear. the frame is less that precise.

 

[eacook1]

My wife has Covid so I’m getting paid to stay home and work on my 4Runner. Hopefully I don’t get it.

Welded in my u-boltless pad. Not super happy about that last weld on the upper left but that was over another weld that had good penetration.

Also added a 3/8 shim to the perch since the sky’s springs are designed for a std Toyota axle.

Made some spacers to simulate my spring packs. Got everything bolted in. Next is to clean up the knuckles and install all the steering so I can cycle everything and see what’s going to hit.

 

[eacook1]

Got the knuckles and steering on. With the box in the stock location and stock pitman arm the tie rod and drag link are trying to share the same space.

So I bought a flat pitman arm and HD relocation kit from Sky’s after talking to them in the phone.

My axle is pushed far enough forward where it’s not going to hit the oil pan so that’s good.

This pic has the box forward. With the flat pitman and the box forward and rotated everything should clear. Also the springs are flat in this pic so I can go up to 2” inverted according to Sky’s. The tie rod may get close to the pan but it should be manageable.

I plan to run some cheap bump stops and switch to hydraulic later. So I bought some bump cans and am going to make a adjustable bump that I can hopefully just put a hydraulic one in later.

I read that the bumps should hit in the middle of the spring. Not sure how I’m going to do that with this setup.

Threw a tire on for fun.

 

[eacook1]

Not 4runner related but this ends up being Toyota related. My kid decided to modify my wife's car. 8k in damages so with 270k on the clock its a total. We spent all day Saturday looking for a car and ended up buying a Loaded 2009 Lexus ES350 with 37k on it.

Anyway, progress on the 4runner was slow. I got one frame plate completely welded and my bump stop mocked up. I Might change the bump can position slightly. I am trying to build the bump stops so I could possibly add a hydraulic bump down the road. For now it will just be a tube with a rubber or poly bump that I can adjust as needed.

The shock is going to be pretty close so I may rotate the can.

I created another post asking about this shock and can hitting, how much side to side movement would you expect? Right now nothing hits, I completely cycled the suspension and everything looks good.

 

[eacook1]

Been hard at work, both on this project and at work so irate has taken a back seat.

My parts from skys came in.

I had to pull the radiator to get acces to this inside of the frame. This kit moved the box forward and rotated it flatter. I set it up to just clear the frame.

I guess I didn't take a final pic of it bolted up. This kit worked great and I didn't have to do anything to lengthen or shorten the steering column, it bolted right back up.

I took a break from the front to modify my rear housing for the e-locker. I was pretty worried about not drilling the bolt holes exacely in the right position and straight. I only had to enlarge one hole in the third member to get it on.

Its been HOT as Hell the last few weeks. Garage temp!

 

[eacook1]

Got both shock hoops and bump cans set up which should be the last of the fabricating. I got my shocks in and cycled and measured everything and it seems ok.

So now were up to today. I still have to burn everything in but I want to check my shackle angle one last time with the vehicle on all 4 wheels. I checked it the best I could not having it on the ground and it was about 23 degrees so I cut the front hanger off and am in the process of moving it forward. Shooting for 15 without my bumper and winch on. Maybe I can hang it up there and see if it makes a difference.

 

[eacook1]

This has been slow going but everything is burned in. I spent a lot of time cleaning and painting. I got the housing mounted for the last time….hopefully. Do you guys torque the u-bolts? I’m using 5/8 bolts and I just gave them them a few Ugga Duggas with the beaker bar.

I had a lot of peripheral stuff to put back together in the 4Runner itself.

Got the spindles mounted and everything painted. I realized I completely mixed up my shims. So I ordered a full set if six shooter shims since my kit just has the regular ones. I replaced all the bearing and races.

 

[Stingray]

How are you going to shim your 6 shooters to center them?

have you done it before?

 

[eacook1]

How are you going to shim your 6 shooters to center them?

have you done it before?

No idea, first time inside a Toyota axle. I read there is a tool to center the knuckle but is that normally required? Are they typically off center? What happens if you don’t center it?
Anyone in socal have a centering tool they want to loan me?

 

[eacook1]

Thinking about this, I suppose you would wear out the oil seal if its off center?

 

[Stingray]

No idea, first time inside a Toyota axle. I read there is a tool to center the knuckle but is that normally required? Are they typically off center? What happens if you don’t center it?
Anyone in socal have a centering tool they want to loan me?

The point of the shims is to center the knuckle and the spindle dead center on the axle, so you don't wear out the bronze bushings and eat the seals,

So with a little research in the FSM it will give you a step by step procedure to perfectly center your knuckle, and get all the specs dead on.
Once you nail it, as long as the knuckles and the housing stay together the shims should never change.

Guys will argue close enough is good, I like it right,

https://toyota.service-solutions.com/en-US/Pages/ItemDetail.aspx?SKU=09634-60014

I have one, and the generic fish scale to go with it.

 

[Stingray]

It can also put stuff in a bind also

 

[eacook1]

Dang pricey tool. I will have to get one though I suppose.

 

[Stingray]

sent you a message

 

[eacook1]

Final assembly. Got my shocks on. Trying to do a little every night. Hoping to finish this weekend but have some obligations so I’m not sure how much I will get done.

 

[cchambers13]

Whats your rear spring setup?

For the frame tubes, hundreds have been installed by drunk rednecks without negative effects... they'll be fine

 

[eacook1]

Whats your rear spring setup?

For the frame tubes, hundreds have been installed by drunk rednecks without negative effects... they'll be fine

I am running the rear portion of a Rough Country 4-5" IFS bracket lift.

Ive been told it will articulate like crap but it was quick and easy and I will re-visit the rear later. It definitely has some serious bump steer, I guess due to how short the stock links are? Surprisingly it will require very little trimming the way its currently set up.

For the frame tubes, hundreds have been installed by drunk rednecks without negative effects... they'll be fine

Unfortunately I am anal about stuff like that, drives my wife crazy because I want everything perfect. I suppose it comes form being prototype machinist by day.

 

[cchambers13]

I am running the rear portion of a Rough Country 4-5" IFS bracket lift.

Ive been told it will articulate like crap but it was quick and easy and I will re-visit the rear later. It definitely has some serious bump steer, I guess due to how short the stock links are? Surprisingly it will require very little trimming the way its currently set up.

Yeah it will be pretty marginal with the stock links. I was curious about the spring rate vs lift height. Planning another 2nd gen build around keeping coils. My first go-round I cut it all out and put leafs in which works great except ride, still isn't horrible. Simple 3 link or wishbone upper setup should slink things out if keeping the stock tank.

Unfortunately I am anal about stuff like that, drives my wife crazy because I want everything perfect. I suppose it comes form being prototype machinist by day.

You're in a safe space. I'm a manufacturing engineer that grew up in a prototyping machine shop. In this case squishy bushings cover many sins, no need to measure to ±0.0001".

Love the build, seeing it unfold is a big trip down memory lane... so much grinding

 

[eacook1]

She’s alive, finally.

Hopefully the front will settle a little once I get the front bumper and winch on and the springs get broken in.

Anyone have pics on how they routed their front brake lines?

 

[cchambers13]

Looks awesome!

Hopefully the front will settle a little once I get the front bumper and winch on and the springs get broken in.

Front will settle, I pulled the 2nd or 3rd to bottom leaf out of my front packs. After a few months put them back after it settled.

Anyone have pics on how they routed their front brake lines?

Used Barnes4wd tabs with clips welded to frame for upper mount.

Weld On Brake Line Tab

This is our weld on brake line tab it will work with most clip style brake lines and our Brake Line Clips. Dimensions are as follows: 5/8" hole for the brake line to pass through, 1 1/4" tall, 3/4" from bottom of bracket to center of hole, 1 1/8" wide and .100" thick. Made from steel these are...

barnes4wd.com

Lowers are janky (zip tie tabs on steer arms) but the same could work as the uppers.

Or a more polished option:

LR Toyota Backing Plate Eliminator w/Brake Line Holder

Toyota Ultimate Backing Plate Eliminator (Pair) Toyota solid axle backing plates (sometimes called dust shields) seem to become damaged with even the slightest touch, but removing them leaves your brake hard lines unsecured. On the other hand, traditional backing plate eliminators have no...

lowrangeoffroad.com

 

[eacook1]

Got the bumper and lights back on the front.

My biggest problem right now bid my front driveshaft and header crossover are fighting for space. Anyone here have a 3.0 with headers that has been solid axle swapped?

 

[YotaAtieToo]

Yeah it will be pretty marginal with the stock links. I was curious about the spring rate vs lift height. Planning another 2nd gen build around keeping coils. My first go-round I cut it all out and put leafs in which works great except ride, still isn't horrible. Simple 3 link or wishbone upper setup should slink things out if keeping the stock tank.


You're in a safe space. I'm a manufacturing engineer that grew up in a prototyping machine shop. In this case squishy bushings cover many sins, no need to measure to ±0.0001".

Love the build, seeing it unfold is a big trip down memory lane... so much grinding

OME coils all the way. Ran stockers with spacers in my 3rd gen for years. It sat OK with nothing in the back, but was always sag ass and bottoming out with a little gear and kids in there. Not to mention loaded for camping.

Ome coils front and rear made it bottom out less and ride better than stock, while being able to carry wieght much better. I used to air down to ~15 psi just for dirt roads, now I rarely bother.

2nd gen rear suspension isn't too much different. I wouldn't mess with the links for 2" or less lift. But do check the brackets. My 2nd gens were cracked before I ever put it in 4low