What's new
By:
Filters

engineering that makes you want to punch babies.

Chevy_man said:
Mine are cast upper and lower. Thought I was going to explode the press getting the lowers out.
Uppers I just chiseled the head off the rivet and drove them out with a punch in 10 minutes.
Click to expand...

The uppers are simple as hell. Chisel them off, drive out with a punch.

The lower arms are cast and double-layered at the end. The ball joint slips in-between the upper and lower side of the arm. then they are riveted. I have already chiseled the heads off the tops, chiseled the heads off the first two bottoms, drilled one out in 3 stages... and it still won't come out. No matter how hard I beat the shit out of it with a punch, they won't budge.

A quick look shows nobody makes a new lower control arm for a 94 K3500 (I can find the C3500, though), so I can't use that as an easy way out, either.

The chuck on my drill is now jammed, too, so I have to replace that before I can continue... looks like it's not going anywhere until next week (I work tomorrow through Sunday for sure, then up in the air beyond that).
 
DRTDEVL said:
The uppers are simple as hell. Chisel them off, drive out with a punch.

The lower arms are cast and double-layered at the end. The ball joint slips in-between the upper and lower side of the arm. then they are riveted. I have already chiseled the heads off the tops, chiseled the heads off the first two bottoms, drilled one out in 3 stages... and it still won't come out. No matter how hard I beat the shit out of it with a punch, they won't budge.

A quick look shows nobody makes a new lower control arm for a 94 K3500 (I can find the C3500, though), so I can't use that as an easy way out, either.

The chuck on my drill is now jammed, too, so I have to replace that before I can continue... looks like it's not going anywhere until next week (I work tomorrow through Sunday for sure, then up in the air beyond that).
Click to expand...
You did it wrong. Heat the rivet glowing red, knock the head off with an air chisel. Then while still glowing knock it out of the arm with said air chisel. Hammer and punch may work but you need fire.
 
The idiot who decided it was a good idea to put the main fuse panel in my Class A RV under the left-front corner of the dash should be kicked in the balls, repeatedly. Have to shimmy in on your back over the engine cover, in front of the seat, under the steering wheel and dash to then figure out which fuse is blown and replace it with the panel 6" in front of your face. Getting back out is the real fun part since its uphill over the engine cover. It probably was the same cross-eyed fucker that installed every screw, light, handle, mirror, etc., crooked.
 
DRTDEVL said:
I suck at life. I don't have a torch.
Click to expand...

I didn't have space in my old garage for a full size torch set, so I bought the harbor freight mini torch special. Doesn't have a lot of life on a tank of acetylene, but it'll usually get me through a couple of small jobs as a blue wrench, and doesn't take up the space a full size torch set and cart do. Might be worth looking into.
 
BDK said:
The idiot who decided it was a good idea to put the main fuse panel in my Class A RV under the left-front corner of the dash should be kicked in the balls, repeatedly. Have to shimmy in on your back over the engine cover, in front of the seat, under the steering wheel and dash to then figure out which fuse is blown and replace it with the panel 6" in front of your face. Getting back out is the real fun part since its uphill over the engine cover. It probably was the same cross-eyed fucker that installed every screw, light, handle, mirror, etc., crooked.
Click to expand...

fun times.

every single wire in my brother's winnebago is the same color.

they learned that trick from international apparently, since they just used black wires for everything.
super awesome when you're trying to fix burnt wires 30 years later and the screenprint with the number is just gone.
 
Dennhop said:
I didn't have space in my old garage for a full size torch set, so I bought the harbor freight mini torch special. Doesn't have a lot of life on a tank of acetylene, but it'll usually get me through a couple of small jobs as a blue wrench, and doesn't take up the space a full size torch set and cart do. Might be worth looking into.
Click to expand...

Space, I have. Finding the bottles for a reasonable price has been the problem. People want like-new prices for old leased units.
 
Might try estate auctions or farm auctions, if you got any near you...don't know where you live, but something like a torch set at a farm auctions I would imagine would go pretty cheap...almost anyone there probably already has a working set, and isn't going to be super interested...
 
87manche said:
fun times.

every single wire in my brother's winnebago is the same color.

they learned that trick from international apparently, since they just used black wires for everything.
super awesome when you're trying to fix burnt wires 30 years later and the screenprint with the number is just gone.
Click to expand...

Good times. I had a 2006 Winnebago and all the wires were yellow and the same gauge, with the grounds being white. Only wires in different colors were chassis wiring. Luckily, I could still read the screenprint numbers.
 
My 09 Ford F-150 work truck.

Automatic door locks piss me off to no end. If I wanted the passenger side door locked I would fucking lock it!
 
Mr Stubs said:
My 09 Ford F-150 work truck.

Automatic door locks piss me off to no end. If I wanted the passenger side door locked I would fucking lock it!
Click to expand...

I borrowed my MIL's 2000 Expedition and spent all afternoon cursing the locks. Put it in Park, walk back to put the towball in- trunk's locked, fuck you! Back up, put it in Park, walk back to see if the ball/hitch are lined up, driver's door is locked, fuck you! Put it in Park, get out to get some straps from the back, rear door's locked, fuck you! It's beyond me why anyone wants that crap.
 
97-03 5.4 f150 lower rad hose, spark plugs, well the whole god damn truck for that matter

you got to remove skid plate, cover for diff actuator and you can still barely get those clamps off with truck on rack
mkmokig.jpg


UktjRQt.jpg
 
Last edited:
Levigarrett76 said:
97-03 5.4 f150 lower rad hose, spark plugs, well the whole god damn truck for that matter

you got to remove skid plate, cover for diff actuator and you can still barely get those clamps off with truck on rack
Click to expand...

holy shit that's some BMW level coolant system fuckery right there.

speaking of.
driveshafts with staked u joints.

fuck all of the manufacturers for this shit. Saved them $2 a shaft not machining for circlips.

oh, I'm replacing a driveshaft next week when the new one shows up.
instead of just buying $30 worth of fucking u joints.
 
87manche said:
fun times.

every single wire in my brother's winnebago is the same color.

they learned that trick from international apparently, since they just used black wires for everything.
super awesome when you're trying to fix burnt wires 30 years later and the screenprint with the number is just gone.
Click to expand...

Standard aircraft shit too. Even more fun when working on 40+ y/o aircraft that have been modified/upgraded several times over the years by different outfits so none of the instrument and radio wiring diagrams even remotely match the factory manuals :rolleyes:

photo9491.jpg


photo9494.jpg
 
The alternator that has a clutch on it in the Dodge calibers. Even worse that it is on the bottom. Total p.i.t.a. to replace. Who the fawk needs a clutch on the alternator?
 
slowlygettingthere said:
The alternator that has a clutch on it in the Dodge calibers. Even worse that it is on the bottom. Total p.i.t.a. to replace. Who the fawk needs a clutch on the alternator?
Click to expand...

It's an over-running clutch to reduce belt wear, NVH and make everything ball bearing on the belt drive last a tiny bit longer. I think they're stupid but they don't seem to break often so eh, whatever.
 
87manche said:
holy shit that's some BMW level coolant system fuckery right there.

speaking of.
driveshafts with staked u joints.

fuck all of the manufacturers for this shit. Saved them $2 a shaft not machining for circlips.

oh, I'm replacing a driveshaft next week when the new one shows up.
instead of just buying $30 worth of fucking u joints.
Click to expand...

Agreed

The only thing thats a pleasure imo is the water pump and alternator, tensioners etc. Lose the fan and shroud and the motor is shoved so fucking far back into the firewall they give you plenty of room to work on them :flipoff2:, #4 sparkplug, and the heater hoses are another story. I dont think you can get to the fucking clamp unless you pull the intake?
 
Levigarrett76 said:
Agreed

The only thing thats a pleasure imo is the water pump and alternator, tensioners etc. Lose the fan and shroud and the motor is shoved so fucking far back into the firewall they give you plenty of room to work on them :flipoff2:, #4 sparkplug, and the heater hoses are another story. I dont think you can get to the fucking clamp unless you pull the intake?
Click to expand...

it only took me two days to replace the water pump and thermostat in my euro pile of shit.

but spark plugs are super easy, so I got that going for me.
 
arse_sidewards said:
It's an over-running clutch to reduce belt wear, NVH and make everything ball bearing on the belt drive last a tiny bit longer. I think they're stupid but they don't seem to break often so eh, whatever.
Click to expand...

Well that may be, but the damn thing was still charging fine. That brilliant little clutch is what started to self destruct. So in my case the rest of the shit would have been much easier to replace and probably cheaper.
 
Mr Stubs said:
Care to elaborate?
Click to expand...

Page 93 of the owners manual. You can also turn off the seatbelt chime.



Autolock

This feature automatically locks all vehicle doors when the vehicle is shifted into any gear, putting the vehicle in motion.

1. To disable/enable the autolock feature, select this function from the SETUP MENU.

2. Press and hold the SELECT/RESET stem to turn the autolock ON or OFF.



Autounlock

This feature automatically unlocks all vehicle doors when the driver’s door is opened within 10 minutes of the ignition being turned off.

1. To disable/enable the autounlock feature, select this function from the SETUP MENU.

2. Press and hold the SELECT/RESET stem to turn the autounlock ON or OFF.
 
Pukemaggots said:
Page 93 of the owners manual. You can also turn off the seatbelt chime.



Autolock

This feature automatically locks all vehicle doors when the vehicle is shifted into any gear, putting the vehicle in motion.

1. To disable/enable the autolock feature, select this function from the SETUP MENU.

2. Press and hold the SELECT/RESET stem to turn the autolock ON or OFF.



Autounlock

This feature automatically unlocks all vehicle doors when the driver’s door is opened within 10 minutes of the ignition being turned off.

1. To disable/enable the autounlock feature, select this function from the SETUP MENU.

2. Press and hold the SELECT/RESET stem to turn the autounlock ON or OFF.
Click to expand...
Thanks.
 
GMT400 K3500 IFS!!! I'm rebuilding tee got-damned front end on the tow rig, and its fighting me every step of the way (not just the rivets). I even accidentally pulled the passenger stub axle out, so I had to drop the differential, split it, then stack everything on the axle the right way and get it lined up and back in.

This is day 3 down the drain under that thing, and I want to punch babies. Luckily, all I have left is mounting the passenger spindle, unit hub, caliper, tie rod, wheel adapter, skid plate, then put on the wheels and take it in for my appointment at the only shop with a big enough rack to align this long-ass bitch (crew cab long bed).
 
OllieNZ said:
Standard aircraft shit too. Even more fun when working on 40+ y/o aircraft that have been modified/upgraded several times over the years by different outfits so none of the instrument and radio wiring diagrams even remotely match the factory manuals :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

Holly What the fucks... That shit is actually flying? I wouldn't have my name anywhere near that shit!
 
billdacat said:
Holly What the fucks... That shit is actually flying? I wouldn't have my name anywhere near that shit!
Click to expand...

Seems pretty common at the small end of the market especially due to equipment obsolescence and changing air worthiness requirements. The main problem is hardly anyone seems to do dedicated wiring diagrams so you have to use the installation manuals for the various equipment to work out how it's been interfaced with the other equipment and the airframe. It's all technically legal, airworthy and safe it's just a pain in the ass to fault find.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Back Refresh